I just ordered some power supplies that are adjustable from 0 to 12 volts. They may be just the ticket. The price may be comparable to the fixed voltage supplies. There is no wall wart, so it will be easier to find a place to plug it in. They have straight plugs which should no longer be a problem as I made a unit that is 3/8" taller and has a 90 degree plug adapter so that a straight plug will work. Not quite as cool looking as the shorter design, but more versatile.
Haven't played around with a car adapter yet. It may get pretty hot. I hooked up a HI to my variable voltage supply and it worked very well at 11 volts. Pushed it up to 14 which I felt it was too hot. Need to find a 0 to 12 volt adjustable car adapter now.
The new screens should make a big difference bio. Pull that HI off the stem when the vapor starts getting too dark.
Sounds like you are trying to use it like a heavy hitter.
Haven't played around with a car adapter yet. It may get pretty hot. I hooked up a HI to my variable voltage supply and it worked very well at 11 volts. Pushed it up to 14 which I felt it was too hot. Need to find a 0 to 12 volt adjustable car adapter now.
The new screens should make a big difference bio. Pull that HI off the stem when the vapor starts getting too dark.
Sounds like you are trying to use it like a heavy hitter.
biojuggernaut
Snob
yeah, just all my pieces are stemline so it is very hard to see what I'm doing when the HI is in the way. It just happens all too frequently that my technique is OFF! and all my pieces smell now =[
PanicFreak
Theo
TV said:I just ordered some power supplies that are adjustable from 0 to 12 volts. They may be just the ticket. The price may be comparable to the fixed voltage supplies. There is no wall wart, so it will be easier to find a place to plug it in. They have straight plugs which should no longer be a problem as I made a unit that is 3/8" taller and has a 90 degree plug adapter so that a straight plug will work. Not quite as cool looking as the shorter design, but more versatile.
Haven't played around with a car adapter yet. It may get pretty hot. I hooked up a HI to my variable voltage supply and it worked very well at 11 volts. Pushed it up to 14 which I felt it was too hot. Need to find a 0 to 12 volt adjustable car adapter now.
The new screens should make a big difference bio. Pull that HI off the stem when the vapor starts getting too dark.
I bought a power inverter for my vehicle and use the jameco power adapter that comes standard with the pd and zaps. I know car charging systems run between 13.5 to 14 volts which would probably be to hot for you hi but if you were to use a inverter with your white angled plug on a hi, wouldn't that be operating on 12 volts since you are using the inverter?
PanicFreak said:
Yes, then it would be like plugging it into the wall at home. They are so cheap and handy for so many things, it makes sense to have one. Another ribbon of thought would be that you are just going to the car for a quick one and you won't have it plugged in long enough for it to get that hot. Unplug it for a bit if it does. The higher voltage may reduce the time to vapor (TTV) a bit. Maybe just plug it in when you are going to use it. Lots of options.
PanicFreak
Theo
Yes, you are correct tv. The possibilities are almost endless... I like the heat up time you offer on the hi, I am def set on adding it to my arsenal of vapes..... I just see the hi as being handy to have in some situations.... will give you a holla when I am ready tv. 
SirTokesAlot
The Dank Knight
Regarding the new adjustable AC adapter, are we going to have to pay extra for it or is it going to come with all of the units?
SirTokesAlot said:
Still trying to decide exactly how it will be structured. The new adjustable power supplies(depending upon how well they work) will be an option for the units with the right angle plug adapter in the base since they will be able to use either straight or angled plugs. The adjustable power supplies will be the same cost as the standard right angle power supplies.
The right angle plug adapter and extra work will make those HI units cost a bit more. The standard HI will only set upright if it is used with a right angle plug power supply. A straight plug will work, but the HI will have to lay on it's side.
Some photos will make this clearer.
tuscan tins
Active Member
Need more pictures 
!
!SirTokesAlot
The Dank Knight
Yes, we do need pictures! 
Is there any possibility for a shortened turbo tube? That'd be cool because it would allow the use of the HI on smaller bubblers, [IE, a GMD mini showerline]
Is there any possibility for a shortened turbo tube? That'd be cool because it would allow the use of the HI on smaller bubblers, [IE, a GMD mini showerline]
The sun was shining today, so here are a couple of photos showing a variation for the power connection. The HI on its side is Dark Cherry (same wood on which it is resting) and was my first attempt for the angled adapter plug. The slot allows for the use of the angled plug and the adapter plug.
The other HI is Osage Orange and has a slot specifically for the angled adapter plug. The heating element is removable for cleaning (if necessary) with a provided tool. This variation is 3-7/8" tall which is 3/8" more than a standard HI unit.
I have made a turbo tube that extends only 5/8" beyond the silicone sleeve. That may be just what you need SirTokesAlot.
The other HI is Osage Orange and has a slot specifically for the angled adapter plug. The heating element is removable for cleaning (if necessary) with a provided tool. This variation is 3-7/8" tall which is 3/8" more than a standard HI unit.
I have made a turbo tube that extends only 5/8" beyond the silicone sleeve. That may be just what you need SirTokesAlot.
Looking good Alan. I think I like the 'leggier' design of this over the first HI.
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
I would have to agree J.R.R.Tokin'. Looking very nice Alan.
Thanks mom and J.R.R.Tokin'. It works very well too.
I have decided to not to install a screen between the center tube and outer tube. It is too easy to dislodge the screen and if something does get below the screen, there is no way to get it out. I like the simple look.
I have decided to not to install a screen between the center tube and outer tube. It is too easy to dislodge the screen and if something does get below the screen, there is no way to get it out. I like the simple look.
Sounds good, I like things as simple as possible (and as cheap as possible!). The more you can get rid of, the better! Looking at the earlier photos, it seems that you line the inside of the wood with steel. I was wondering if you could get rid of that as well? I know that some people don't like having wood in the vapour path, but I don't mind it, it's a pretty subtle flavour that diminishes over time. The HI effect should work better with even less thermal mass to keep hot.
max
Out to lunch
This sounds like a good idea. Hope it works well. I can't wait for the first complaint that the vape sucks because it doesn't put out vapor at 2 volts.TV said:
It looks tall, but that's about the height of the typical coffee mug- tiny.
You won't be able to tell as long as it's in one piece. Its doesn't really start tasting bad. But if you run one long enough, there'll be charring. There's no way around it. Most people are gonna want a vapor path that's isolated from the wood, and wood that's protected (as much as possible) from the heat.hazy said:
mistergyro
Well-Known Member
can we see a video of this in action? that would rock!
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
Well, there's this vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o6jtKyzWA4
and this vid:
http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?pid=173421#p173421
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o6jtKyzWA4
and this vid:
http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?pid=173421#p173421
SirTokesAlot
The Dank Knight
momofthegoons said:
My roomie is getting a walnut one, she'll probably make an account here and post a video/review, if not, then I will.
hazy said:
I thought about reducing the height of the metal sleeve since it doesn't have to be that tall to support the screen anymore. I decided to leave it the same height. It provides covering for the wood plus it provides friction / surface area to hold the center tube in place. Since the only conduction path from the center tube to the outer sleeve is the bottom washer, the highest heat for the wood will be at that point. The heat is less for the wood the farther you get away from that point. The only wood exposed to the air path is right at the very top where the wood is relatively cool. The air moving past the wood is still room temperature. The air does not get heated until it enters the holes in the bottom of the center tube.
This vaporizer is still fairly new so I'm not certain how the wood will react under the hottest part. The wood under the outer sleeve farthest away from the bottom washer (hottest part) will not see the high heat and therefore should not be changed. The sleeve should hold the core in place regardless of the wood becoming brittle from exposure to heat. The wood should be altered only at the hottest points under the sleeve.
Thanks Beezleb. I will have to give a travel case some thought. The HI would be nice for travel due to the small size and light weight.
Thanks max. It seems tall because it is so skinny at 1-1/2" diameter. The pieces of wood on which it is setting is just under 3" square. I am making toasty tops from them.
The variable power supplies arrived yesterday. They are just what the HI needed. I can fine tune the temperature to exactly what I like. It reacts very quickly to voltage changes so I can start out low and then finish with a higher temp.
Hope you enjoyed the videos mistergyro. It is really at home with a big water pipe. Thanks for posting the links mom.
Had better get to work on that walnut unit SirTokesAlot. Can't wait to see a video and how she / you like it. I will be sure to include hammered screens.
I have come to the conclusion that it is a combination of dirty screens and too much herb above the screen that causes combustion in vaporizers. Heat will build within the herb mass if there is not enough airflow as a result of too much herb above the screen and/or a dirty screen. My hammered / shiny screens don't appear to be allowing any build up. This should ensure that airflow is always adequate provided that the proper amount of herb is used. The times I have combusted with my heavy hitter is when the screen is dirty or I put too much herb in the bowl.
Airflow is a must so that you don't combust.
SirTokesAlot
The Dank Knight
Is there any possibility for a 45 degree poly tube? It seems a lot more ergonomical for people who have stemless pieces. That'd be something that a lot of log vapes lack.
This should be a slogan for all vapes.
TV said:
This should be a slogan for all vapes.
scottio19
scotty
I will be following this thread obsessively from now on! Thinking about getting a $9 reducer from the mflb store to fit this into my 18mm gong double perc bubbler! Then it will be my time to shine and show off my glass to FC 
I'll wait for now, and as I gather funds I hope more members will post vids and review how well this works with through waterpipes. If users report that the temperature (450*) is not excessively high, and TV makes it possible for the HI to be used in the car and with an adjustable power supply, I don't see anything in the way of me getting this vape.
Just a question about the HI, UD, and logs in general. Why are the HI and UD log vapes getting so much attention in the "huge hit" department? Could it just be due to their higher temperatures and increased airflow, paired with the ability to pack a larger bowl than other log vapes? Or could the fact that they both run on higher wattages (assumption) lower the need for heat retention on those long draws? I mean like the heating element is getting more power so a long strong draw will still get alot of hot air.
I'll wait for now, and as I gather funds I hope more members will post vids and review how well this works with through waterpipes. If users report that the temperature (450*) is not excessively high, and TV makes it possible for the HI to be used in the car and with an adjustable power supply, I don't see anything in the way of me getting this vape.
Just a question about the HI, UD, and logs in general. Why are the HI and UD log vapes getting so much attention in the "huge hit" department? Could it just be due to their higher temperatures and increased airflow, paired with the ability to pack a larger bowl than other log vapes? Or could the fact that they both run on higher wattages (assumption) lower the need for heat retention on those long draws? I mean like the heating element is getting more power so a long strong draw will still get alot of hot air.