The HI

Dr. Plutonious

Well-Known Member
What attachment are you using?

When I use the 14mm GonG adapter, I usually hold it off the weed and rotate the heater around as much as I can (which isn't much in the glass). I usually get fairly good results that way. I'll adjust the distance between the weed and the heater throughout the hit as well.

With the silicone I keep my screen up pretty high for super thick hits, so it's kind of hard to not have the metal touch the weed. It doesn't matter as much though with the silicone since you can rotate the HI much more and much faster allowing for more control over the heat. This way I find though you do have to be much more careful of combustion.

With roasting tubes I usually use a silicone sleeve with them and set it so that the turbo tube is sitting within the metal heater, but the bottom isn't touching the screen.

These are the set ups I have the most experience with, so that's my 2 cents on it.
 

CentiZen

Evil Genius in Training
Accessory Maker
I've got a wooden draw tube and an 18mm GonG adapter, which is the one I've been using so far. I'm trying to find that sweet spot, because currently it's taking me about 5 good draws to vaporize the load to the same consistency of the cloud.

I thought I would bump up the voltage a little, so I went from 12v to 12.5v, and got slightly better results. Then I went to 13 and combusted within seconds. I'm just in the process of cleaning up from that. I'm thinking I should experiment some more but any tips are welcome.
 
CentiZen,

hoptimum

Well-Known Member
Hello there JedHI's, today I join your ranks. My HI came in and I couldn't be happier.

However, I seem to be having some trouble getting the basics down. The only other log vapes I've used have been ones like the purple days where the herb chamber sits inside the heating core, instead of overlapping it. Do I hold the HI slightly off of the herb or should I let it touch the core? Right now I'm getting very inconsistent results and I'd like to hear the best way to use this awesome little vape from some masters.


I'm no master by any means, but I've been experimenting with it a bit. It does take a little practice, since the stainless steel element gets very hot and you can easily combust. I have found that by extending the silicon sleeve a little and pushing the screen closer to the glass tube you can get a little more distance from the heating element and it is less likely to combust. Also, that silicon sleeve is pretty flexible, so you can sort of rotate it while you hit it. I've also used the stainless roasting tube for concentrates wrapped in a little bit of the hemp that comes with the package. That stuff seems like it hits forever. If you get the stainless tube connected to plastic, like I did, you might consider ditching the plastic and using the silicon instead. The plastic can't take the heat.
 
hoptimum,

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
Hello there JedHI's, today I join your ranks. My HI came in and I couldn't be happier.

However, I seem to be having some trouble getting the basics down. The only other log vapes I've used have been ones like the purple days where the herb chamber sits inside the heating core, instead of overlapping it. Do I hold the HI slightly off of the herb or should I let it touch the core? Right now I'm getting very inconsistent results and I'd like to hear the best way to use this awesome little vape from some masters.
If only there was some way to have some type of variable voltage power supply, you could more easily control the heat output. Someone should work on that. :rolleyes:

:peace:
 

CentiZen

Evil Genius in Training
Accessory Maker
Where is this sillicone sleeve? Did it come in the package? I got a bunch of scent beads, an oil pot and screens, but no sillicone
 
CentiZen,

vorrange

Vapor.wise
Where is this sillicone sleeve? Did it come in the package? I got a bunch of scent beads, an oil pot and screens, but no sillicone

Centizen, it all comes down to the speed of your draw. At 12V is more than enough to fully extract your herbs.

With the gong i use it about 1/3 of the bowl full, usually less, and it's fine. Then use a long slow draw, and at the same time do a circular motion with the HI. The circular motion is important to ensure an even roasting.

I don't use silicone because i don't like how it tastes and how the herbs cling to it making it a pain in the ass to clean.

I just use the 14mm gong and the 2-nipple stem. The 14mm gong is my water piece tube for obvious reasons but also because of the bigger bowl, and the 2-nipple stem is my dry session tube because i can use it like a cigarette, it's easy to mate with the HI and it's VERY conservative.
 
vorrange,

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
@CentiZen - Glad to hear your HI arrived safely and you are happy with it. I have better luck hovering the HI onto the roasting tube rather than setting it on the tube. The herb can get smashed down which affects the air flow if the HI center tube is pushed too far into the roasting tube. Maintain a clean screen and don't pack too much into the bowl. Generally no more than 1/4" above the screen. Stir between hits for complete roasting. 11.8 volts to 12.4 volts seems to be a good range. The depth of fill in the bowl will have an impact on the roast since the air flow will be affected. The higher the voltage/temp, the faster you should hit it to avoid combustion. I didn't include any silicone since none of the tubes you ordered require it. The Turbo Tubes, U tubes, and 2 part glass tubes use the silicone sleeve.

@hoptimum - Sorry about the poly tubing. I have decided to stop selling it as the heat resistance is not high enough. They are also a pain to fabricate. Making another roasting tube to replace it. An all metal roasting tube. It is 5/16" diameter ss tubing 3.5" long with a dimple at one end for the screen. I can also machine down the tip to 9/32" so that it will fit into a PD, WZ or AZ/MZ. The tip still gets hot (obviously) but the rest of the tube does not. This tube will last forever. The other tube is one I'm still testing. An all metal Turbo Tube. The bowl is 7/16" ss tubing and the mouthpiece is 3/8" ss tubing.
Glad to hear you are having good luck wrapping concentrates in the hemp fiber.

ssroastingtubes.jpg


@Stu - That is quite the setup. Definitely a Frankenvape. Amazed that the HI had that kind of heat through the ELB. Thanks for posting.

@Dr. Plutonious - Thanks for posting the photo. Looks very tasty.

@ghost>boogie on - Thanks for checking in. Glad to hear the HI is still working well.
 

Dr. Plutonious

Well-Known Member
@Alan

I did notice my poly mounted roasting tube was melting when I used it, and O haven't been using it latlely as a result. Would you recommend retiring it or is it still safe to use despite melting?
 
Dr. Plutonious,

CentiZen

Evil Genius in Training
Accessory Maker
So I'm having a bit better luck now. I've dialed it down to 11.7 right now and that seems to be a good spot. Big clouds, dark abv and only the odd speck of combustion if I pull too hard. What is the best grind consistency for the HI? Right now I'm using a very fine grind that I use in my Cloud with great effect.
 

CentiZen

Evil Genius in Training
Accessory Maker
I think I'm starting to master it, I'm getting really good clouds and great taste, and haven't had a combustion since the one I mentioned last time. Fine grinds have done the best for me, but I'm finding it's fairly easy to break up the half vaped bud into finer particles with my stirring tools.

I always thought that the MFLB is a 'manual' vape while everything else is like driving an automatic. But I don't think that's the case anymore, I think that the HI is the perfect example of a manual vape. Harder to use, but even in the short time I've had it I've watched it outperform my Cloud on clouds, my herbalaire for efficiency and my Solo for speed. It's going to be worth the time to master it, that's for sure.

Also, this is also the best arm massager I've ever had. I have programmers RSI, so the insides of my arms get very tight and requires regular soothing. The warm and smooth HI is prefect for that.
 

Dr. Plutonious

Well-Known Member
Haha I'm happy you use it for massages too. My neck muscles are constantly over tense (the result of an old wrestling Injury...) and it can get agitated so easily. I always use the HI to help soothe it.
 
Dr. Plutonious,

chimpybits

Well-Known Member
You know CentiZen it's not unusual for those that have just gotten HI to post pics 'round here. No matter, I don't doubt that your HI + your mini VVPS is a pretty little thing.
 

Jeppy

Pure Vaporist
CentiZen If you are using the direct draw method, you will have to keep the voltage right where you have it now. 11.7 at the highest for direct draw for me. Though I do tend to stick with the glass roasting tube used with one of my glass pieces. Here's a video from a while back:

 

CentiZen

Evil Genius in Training
Accessory Maker
You know CentiZen it's not unusual for those that have just gotten HI to post pics 'round here. No matter, I don't doubt that your HI + your mini VVPS is a pretty little thing.

Soon! I want something better than my phone take them with so I'm borrowing a friend's Nikon for it.
 

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
@Dr. Plutonious - The poly is the same material that was used for the PD vapor tubes. The roasting tips are too short and allow too much heat that softens the poly material which is fairly thin. They will work fine in wood or glass tubes. Glad you are finding other uses for the HI as well.

@CentiZen - Glad to hear you are mastering the HI. It really is sort of a force thing. You get a feel for how hard to hit and when to mix some room air. It is very much a manual vaporizer. I have always thought of it like a sports car with a manual transmission. You have complete control of speed and acceleration. A vaporizer with electronics is more like an automatic transmission sports car. Someone described the motion to control temperature like a trombone slide.
Nice to hear you are also able to use the HI to help relieve your RSI. The more dense the wood, the more heat it will hold.

@Jeppy - Thanks for posting the video. I have been using 11.7 volts with my glass core HI lately. The taste is delightful. Hard to tell when to stop inhaling so I don't get too much. That is one advantage of the VL, the hit is never too big.

So I thought it might be nice to have some protective silicone sleeve for the all metal roasting tube and decided it should have another function as well. It will fit snugly into a 14mm fitting and also work well for direct draw. I really wonder how many different tube combinations are possible as I seem to keep finding more.

siliconessroastingtube.jpg
 

Dafni

Well-Known Member
Nice one Alan, keep em coming!

So these all metal roasting tubes go inside the heater core, right? Is there some kind of ridge to make them stop going too deep into the core?? Or do you have to get another style tube for this??

Or, in other words, which tubes require you to hold/hover the HI, and on which tubes can you release the HI without it sliding down onto the herb?? (upside down use on waterpiece)

Thanks
 

Jeppy

Pure Vaporist
Alright so I think it's time I pick up a vvps for the HI. Can you guys point me towards some to look at?

http://www.amazon.ca/Elenco-Variable-Voltage-Power-Supply/dp/B0002D0ROO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384463316&sr=8-1&keywords=variable voltage power supply

For instance, would that be good enough? I don't know much about this type of stuff :p



Here is the website where I got my Hildbrandt in brushed aluminum
spartan-tattoo-power-supply-5.jpg
http://www.tattoomachineequipment.com/tattoo-power-supplies
 

Dr. Plutonious

Well-Known Member
@Jeppy thanks man, this looks great. I take it that it has been holding up well?

Also, like I said I don't know much about this stuff. If I get this, is it ready to go with the HI or do I need to get some other cables as well?
 
Dr. Plutonious,

Jeppy

Pure Vaporist
@Jeppy thanks man, this looks great. I take it that it has been holding up well?

Also, like I said I don't know much about this stuff. If I get this, is it ready to go with the HI or do I need to get some other cables as well?
Somebody around here has to be making a cable for these. Maybe someone will chime in, but yes, you do need a cable which will plug into one side, and it will plug into the HI. You will then plug off the other side.
 

HoneyAir

Well-Known Member
So I thought it might be nice to have some protective silicone sleeve for the all metal roasting tube and decided it should have another function as well. It will fit snugly into a 14mm fitting and also work well for direct draw. I really wonder how many different tube combinations are possible as I seem to keep finding more.

siliconessroastingtube.jpg

I tried to introduce a friend to the PD once, but it didn't work out so well because as a cigarette smoker his lung pull was minimal and he couldn't handle the 'milkshake through a straw' effect. It made him seriously question what the point of the whole thing was.

He did have a bong so it would have been wonderful at that point to replace his bowl with this metal-tube-with-silicone and show him how this really worked.

I've been dealing with the poly tubes becoming very soft under high heat-- I do recall the PD stems also had this problem but because they were thicker they didn't flex-- the metal tube would just slide down into the poly and I'd have to tug it back out as it cooled. So, this new development with metal tubes is exactly what I need to move on from that! Thanks for continuing to innovate, Alan!
 
HoneyAir,
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chimpybits

Well-Known Member
chimpybits,
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