Dackz said:So what if I dont really care about reclaiming anything? What if I just want to clean stuff? Can I just soak the pieces in water and it dissolves? You are looking at 100% complete rookie here.
How do I clean the screens and what is ISO and what do I do? Soak them in this stuff for like 12-24hrs and then how long do I wait before they are dry? Do I just leave them out for 12-24hrs and they will dry fine? Sorry for the newbness questions. Like I said, Im not really interested in reclaiming anything, just keep it clean.
Still love the machine, just looking to keep it running really well and smooth.
Iso=isopropyl alchohol (rubbing alchohol) try to get the highest purity one on the shelf (usually around 92% alchohol) and make sure the only other ingredient is water, water by itself will not cut through the resin......alchohol dries super fast but for good measure run the vape a bit to burn off any excessDackz said:So what if I dont really care about reclaiming anything? What if I just want to clean stuff? Can I just soak the pieces in water and it dissolves? You are looking at 100% complete rookie here.
How do I clean the screens and what is ISO and what do I do? Soak them in this stuff for like 12-24hrs and then how long do I wait before they are dry? Do I just leave them out for 12-24hrs and they will dry fine? Sorry for the newbness questions. Like I said, Im not really interested in reclaiming anything, just keep it clean.
Still love the machine, just looking to keep it running really well and smooth.
clonehigh49 said:I have been experimenting with my Q and tried the elbow packing technique (where you pack the mesh cup that fits in the glass piece the whip attaches to.) It works great! It gets you to where you want faster too. I definitely recommend it. Does anyone have any materials or something they use to cover the bags? I feel like the company should sell little rubber stoppers that cover them or something. I know they are all about glass but honestly I wouldn't mind some plastic if it meant i could cover up the balloon.
It will not dissolve in water. But you can use hot water (from a kettle) to unstick it and get out. I think asolutely solution for you (fast - much faster than dissolving in iso, no chemistry, but no reclaiming).Dackz said:So what if I dont really care about reclaiming anything? What if I just want to clean stuff? Can I just soak the pieces in water and it dissolves? You are looking at 100% complete rookie here.
clonehigh49 said:. . . Does anyone have any materials or something they use to cover the bags? I feel like the company should sell little rubber stoppers that cover them or something. I know they are all about glass but honestly I wouldn't mind some plastic if it meant i could cover up the balloon.
oldiebutgoodie said:FWIW, I use the bag with a bubbler. I just remove the elbow screen after filling the bag and put the Q's elbow into the bubbler's GonG joint. The water chamber stops any vapor from escaping. Enables nice, long, leisurely sipping.
thelostpizza said:Hey so I might be wrong but the whip can attach to 14mm and 18mm right? Does anyone know if it attaches to 29mm effectivly? Is 18 the preffered way to go? . . . Are you using 18m?
Wow, that certainly does not match my experiences. I have owned 3 Q 4.0's. currently have 2.pakalolo said:The heater does reach temperature quickly. The recommendations for longer heat-up times are to allow the glass to heat up as well. The benefits of this aren't so great that you shouldn't start using it when the heater reaches temperature. You can try it both ways and see which you like better. It's all about what works for you.
Stu said:The EQ will work after a short warm up of 3 minutes or so, however not very well. I find that a minimum of 10 minutes (I usually let it go for 15 - 20) is necessary to get all the glass parts evenly warmed for optimum performance.
Stu said:The EQ will work after a short warm up of 3 minutes or so, however not very well. I find that a minimum of 10 minutes (I usually let it go for 15 - 20) is necessary to get all the glass parts evenly warmed for optimum performance.