The Extreme-Q Vaporizer

FLskwat

VAPOLITICS!
An Extreme Q 4.0 no doubt! ;) Everything is said here:

FLskwat said:
I owned a Q and sold it. Don't get me wrong, it is a very good vaporizer, and the best all-in-1 to me, but IMO as all "all-in-1" they are not the best in each specific field... For example a Swiss knife is less efficient then a Buck knife, a pair of cissors and a saw.
As I own both a Cano and an SSV, I thought and still think I have the high-end of each world (bags/whips). Let us know what you think!

So IMO:
Q's bag vs. Cano: hands down Cano!
Q's whip vs. SSV: hands down SSV!

and about isolated & clean air path:
SSV=Cano > Q

With my vape collection, I had no use of the Q, and my friend wanted an all in one device...so...gone the Q...

Enjoy your new toy & happy vaping, but don't forget to clean all the parts frequently (as U stated you did not unclog your cano screens...)
 
FLskwat,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
aab1 said:
magicflight said:
Really, the discriminating vaporizer purchaser needs to understand that the presence of a "digital display" is much more significant from a marketing and sales point of view than it is from a user/functional one. It is the connotation of "digital displays are more accurate/precise" that makes units sell, not the actual real functional performance or correctness -- something much harder to measure and understand. For vaporizers, as with most home appliances, "good enough" really is enough for most people -- everything else is a sales tactic.

-- Magic-Flight

I disagree with this, although the temperature on the display is not the actual herb temp, it's still accurate of the heater temp.

But most significant is that analog/mechanical thermostats such as on my old Volcano Classic only adjust the temperature once every few minutes, and can allow the temperature to vary by as much as 20 degrees before cycling on and off. For example if you set a Volcano Classic to 350, it will approximately oscillate between 340 and 360 continuously.

Digital thermostats often adjust the temperature every second or even several times per second which normally allows it to stay within 0-3 degrees of your set temperature. This completely eliminates the 20 degrees up and down roller coaster of analog devices.

So even if the temperature on the display is 50 degrees off, it's maintained within 0-3 degrees accuracy while an analog will device will vary by as much as 20 degrees.

So even if an analog device did state the actual temperature of the herb (which they don't), it will still vary widely. I'll take a temp that's 50 degrees off but maintained within 3 degrees over one that's more accurate to the actual herb temp but varies 20 degrees constantly.

Not to mention, with most if not all digitals the actual temp is also shown, with an analog you have no idea of the progress when warning up and need to wait "blindly" until the light goes off, not knowing if you're 20 degrees or 200 degrees away.

@aab1, I think your conclusions are essentially sound; however, let me add some additional clarification re the digital readout based upon posts way back here plus communication I've had directly with Arizer re the Q:

The basic challenge of course is for the manufacturer to report the temperature of the air stream moving through the herb, i.e., the actual vaporizing temp as opposed to the temp at the heating element which depending upon design can vary substantially. Units where the element is positioned closer to the material and where there is no airflow interference and where the sensor placement is well engineered will presumably have a vaporizing temp which is closer to the element temp. That said, there will still be heat loss from element to herb and so it is possible for the temperature readout to be adjusted by the manufacturer to reflect that loss so that what is reported on the LCD is as close as possible an approximation of the actual vaporizing temp.

Both of the above - placement of heat sensors and readout adjustment - are factors with the Q, and were (along with the fan IIRC) the major improvements made compared to the previous generation of the Extreme. There are now 3 sensors at the heating element, positioned differently. And, the LCD is adjusted to reflect the heat loss from element to vaporization, theoretically providing a relatively accurate vaporizing temp. In my experiments, I've found this to be generally true and therefore one can use, e.g., the vape temps charts such as here http://www.vaporpedia.com/wiki/Vaporizing_Effects_by_Temperature and elsewhere which are not vape model specific, and find that setting the Q at those temps will approximately yield those results. The previous generation machine's readout was directly from the sensor at the element, and the delta between the temps displayed between these 2 generations is 120c, which gives an idea of just how significant the above design factors can be.

But again, in terms of actual vape temp this is at best an approximation because it will be altered somewhat by other factors. Looking at that chart, it shows most of the herb vaporizing in the 160-180c range, several more elements in the 180-190c range, and then there is a substantial jump to the 220-230c range before yet more elements reach their boiling temp. While the Q's set temp will be close to accurate in terms of the air meeting the herb, the composition of the herb and the intake of ambient air either by the user's pull and/or the fan, also will affect the air temp actually moving through the herb. That, along with just user preference, helps explain why the most often preferred temps posted by users tend to be <=190-200c or =>230c. Consistent with all this and the particular elements vaped at which temps, users report that the THC head-high is achieved mostly at <190c while couch-lock is at >230c. All consistent with the charts.

There is one other factor to consider in particular with the Q, and that is the bowl and the pack. The elbow screen is designed to create back-pressure into the bowl so as to circulate air around the material, creating the lifting Cyclone effect. It's this temp that the LCD is attempting to approximate. But if the user fills the entire bowl, or packs the material in the bowl densely, or the material is especially moist, the airflow/heat is retarded and the temp will correspondingly fall - that will not be reflected in the readout. Similarly, if one uses a (typically dense) elbow-pack not only is the material now a little further from the element but the airflow is constricted; it's for this reason that Arizer recommends raising the temp setting a bit to compensate.

Finally, let me just add that what can significantly alter how one uses the reported temp, is to use a different bowl than the Cyclone. On this forum you can find reports from users who have modified how the Cyclone is used, or have replaced the Cyclone with for example the VaporTower bowl, which I have also done. The VT bowl sits closer to the element and the material inside lays in a thinner and wider spread. I'm still running experiments, but my early results indicate that with all other factors being equal, there is a reported temp differential of ~10-20c, which is not trivial. In other words, for example where I was using an elbow-pack set at 200c, with the new bowl I get the same effect (but with even more density) with a setting of just ~180c.

(Very) long story short, the Q's settings/reported temp are probably as good an approximation as can be achieved with its bowl design, but precision to within a few degrees centigrade is not reasonable given all the other contributing factors; I would argue for as much as +/- 10c range. Variable temp machines with closer, simpler, more direct airflow conceivably will have an accuracy advantage, but probably not a substantial one. But making a major change in the flow such as using a different bowl setup, can result in significant temp setting/readout differences.
 
Hey guys, been looking around for a couple days and there's a wealth of excellent info in here, so thanks a lot for that. Pretty sure at this point i'm going to be buying the Extreme Q.

One thing I'm wondering is the size of the screens they send with the unit. (not the elbow one, just the one that goes in the cyclone bowl)
 
SaulSilver,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
SaulSilver said:
Hey guys, been looking around for a couple days and there's a wealth of excellent info in here, so thanks a lot for that. Pretty sure at this point i'm going to be buying the Extreme Q.

One thing I'm wondering is the size of the screens they send with the unit. (not the elbow one, just the one that goes in the cyclone bowl)


Welcome!

The closest measurement I could get is .72 inches or 23/32's, which is essentially 18mm. Stainless steel, fine grain mesh. I strongly recommend just buying a replacement package from Arizer, Amazon, your retailer - whomever you're buying the Q from. These screens last a very long time as long as regularly cleaned with ISO. It's the elbow dome that gets much more of a workout, particularly if you elbow-pack. The Cyclone screens fit quite snug. Personally I shape them a bit to be concave, seating the screen with curve pointing down (i.e., like a dome); this provides a bit more air movement through the herb which lays around the perimeter above the glass ledge, while still protecting the element. (You can find others here who've used similar but a bit more elaborate techniques, if that is of interest to you.)
 
oldiebutgoodie,

chucku

Charles Urbane
oldiebutgoodie said:
SaulSilver said:
Hey guys, been looking around for a couple days and there's a wealth of excellent info in here, so thanks a lot for that. Pretty sure at this point i'm going to be buying the Extreme Q.

One thing I'm wondering is the size of the screens they send with the unit. (not the elbow one, just the one that goes in the cyclone bowl)


Welcome!

The closest measurement I could get is .72 inches or 23/32's, which is essentially 18mm. Stainless steel, fine grain mesh. I strongly recommend just buying a replacement package from Arizer, Amazon, your retailer - whomever you're buying the Q from. These screens last a very long time as long as regularly cleaned with ISO. It's the elbow dome that gets much more of a workout, particularly if you elbow-pack. The Cyclone screens fit quite snug. Personally I shape them a bit to be concave, seating the screen with curve pointing down (i.e., like a dome); this provides a bit more air movement through the herb which lays around the perimeter above the glass ledge, while still protecting the element. (You can find others here who've used similar but a bit more elaborate techniques, if that is of interest to you.)

If you order parts from Arizer (elbow, cyclone, tuff bowl) they will throw in some screens comp (2 cyclone, 2 elbow).
 
chucku,

Theo

Well-Known Member
So I've had my vape since beginning of summer. Lately when you're drawing in with the whip you can hear the air being pulled through the unit. I'm pretty sure this hasn't always been the case but I can't really remember (haha, who can think of why?). So was wondering if you guys have encountered it and if it's just a quick and easy fix of unscrewing the bottom of the unit and just cleaning out the unit of dust/particles and such.

Thanks,
-Theo
 
Theo,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Theo said:
So I've had my vape since beginning of summer. Lately when you're drawing in with the whip you can hear the air being pulled through the unit. I'm pretty sure this hasn't always been the case but I can't really remember (haha, who can think of why?). So was wondering if you guys have encountered it and if it's just a quick and easy fix of unscrewing the bottom of the unit and just cleaning out the unit of dust/particles and such.

Thanks,
-Theo

Is the unit under warranty? If it is, I would not open it, but rather contact Arizer. Actually, even if no longer under warranty, still advisable to get their input. That said . . .

IIRC on this thread there are pics of the unit disassembled. There is a grill under the base for the air intake. Probably the fan is mounted on a chassis, closely and vertically just above that grill. I would expect there to also be airflow openings around or in the chassis; this would permit air to be pulled up by the user without it passing through the fan. The kind of noise you hear can be air passing through the fan or being somehow obstructed or redirected, possibly also between the grill and the chassis. So when you remove the base, pull from the whip to try to isolate where the sound is coming from (with computers I use a stethoscope but a piece of tubing might do). Inspect the fan and the other openings if present for dust; blow this out gently with compressed air holding the can about ~10 inches from the unit. Also check for bearing noise, imbalance, or any other irregularity in the fan. If that doesn't resolve the problem, I would next suspect obstruction in the airflow up through the element. But without getting inside the unit I can't say how that might be cleared; another reason to then contact Arizer.

Good luck.
 
oldiebutgoodie,

Nebera

Vaporizer Enthusiast
Has anyone figured out if its ok to order from their website? My browser still doesnt like going to the checkout site.
 
Nebera,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Nebera said:
Has anyone figured out if its ok to order from their website? My browser still doesnt like going to the checkout site.

What browser and operating system are you using?
 
oldiebutgoodie,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Nebera said:
oldiebutgoodie said:
What browser and operating system are you using?

Mac OSX with Chrome

I thought it might be this or similar. The problem you are encountering is most likely because you are not using Internet Explorer. That can be due to how the server sees the browser, how the page is written, or if the page uses an ActiveX object. The 2nd and 3rd causes usually indicate old code. The 1st reason (the server) is just stupid, but is surprisingly still found on even some major corporate sites.

Suggestions, assuming you don't already know how to run IE on your Mac:

1. Easiest is just to borrow a Windows computer. You may need to enable ActiveX.

2. Next easiest assumes that the problem is 1st reason above (the server), which is the most likely. Just install Firefox for OSX plus the Add-On (or "extension") named "User Agent Switcher". This allows you to on-the-fly change the browser identification ("user agent") string sent to the server, so you can fool the server into thinking you're using IE. Be sure to switch the agent ID before entering the site (the setting will be under the Tools menu).

3. I can't vouch for these, but there are several free pieces of software intended to permit running Windows programs on OSX; most of these are built using the Wine platform. IE can be downloaded free. Google can find all this for you quickly. (Best chance of this working is with IE 7.)

4. The last option depends on whether you have/can borrow/will bootleg an installable Windows CD. Install the VirtualBox virtual machine for OSX (VBox is a free equivalent to Parallels) and install Windows inside it. From there you can run IE. This is probably a lot of work if this is all new to you (but may not be more than #3). On the other hand, it's useful to have because there are sites/software which require IE/Windows, for which there is no alternative.
 
oldiebutgoodie,
  • Like
Reactions: PureVapr
oldiebutgoodie said:
Nebera said:
oldiebutgoodie said:
What browser and operating system are you using?

Mac OSX with Chrome

I thought it might be this or similar. The problem you are encountering is most likely because you are not using Internet Explorer. That can be due to how the server sees the browser, how the page is written, or if the page uses an ActiveX object. The 2nd and 3rd causes usually indicate old code. The 1st reason (the server) is just stupid, but is surprisingly still found on even some major corporate sites.

Suggestions, assuming you don't already know how to run IE on your Mac:

1. Easiest is just to borrow a Windows computer. You may need to enable ActiveX.

2. Next easiest assumes that the problem is 1st reason above (the server), which is the most likely. Just install Firefox for OSX plus the Add-On (or "extension") named "User Agent Switcher". This allows you to on-the-fly change the browser identification ("user agent") string sent to the server, so you can fool the server into thinking you're using IE. Be sure to switch the agent ID before entering the site (the setting will be under the Tools menu).

3. I can't vouch for these, but there are several free pieces of software intended to permit running Windows programs on OSX; most of these are built using the Wine platform. IE can be downloaded free. Google can find all this for you quickly. (Best chance of this working is with IE 7.)

4. The last option depends on whether you have/can borrow/will bootleg an installable Windows CD. Install the VirtualBox virtual machine for OSX (VBox is a free equivalent to Parallels) and install Windows inside it. From there you can run IE. This is probably a lot of work if this is all new to you (but may not be more than #3). On the other hand, it's useful to have because there are sites/software which require IE/Windows, for which there is no alternative.
Or, you know, buy it somewhere else. If Arizer can't handle making a fully-functional website, they don't deserve the commission that a reseller would be making from your purchase.
 
BroccoliJury,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
BroccoliJury said:
Or, you know, buy it somewhere else. If Arizer can't handle making a fully-functional website, they don't deserve the commission that a reseller would be making from your purchase.

Fair point. That said, small businesses like Arizer almost always farm out this work, and are often unaware of this problem. I was just trying to give'em a break. :) As usual, my response was overkill.
 
oldiebutgoodie,

Theo

Well-Known Member
I've ordered directly from arizer multiple times, nothing ever went wrong :)
 
Theo,

flotntoke

thoroughly vaped
Have been lurking on here for a couple years. Not a sneak just not much to say in the face of all the great info here on FC. You guys rock! Thanks for all the great info & tips. And, for you noobs please learn to use the search function. It works great and there is nearly unlimited info on here.
After much reading, thought and thanks to your guidance, I picked up a Q about 2 months ago. This thing is amazing! Really love it. Ive come up with a few tips of my own, and comments on others posted here.

A quick review of the Q
Yes everything you have read is true. It is really that nice of a vape. As many have commented it is the ultimate all-in-one. Have never used a cano myself, but can believe that does bags better. SSV definitely does whips better (DBV is about the same as Q whip IMHO). But to have one unit do so much at the price you can get it for is too good to pass up. I cant really add much constructive to all of the great reviews already on here but I can say I've found most of what I've read to be true. The good, and for the most part the not so good.

My buying experience
Got my Q from VapeWorld. Have used them in the past, and they have always been great. Their FC discounts are more than fair, customer service is stellar, warranty on the Q, they bill/ship discreetly and ship super fast. I live on mid East Coast and get their packages within 3 business days always with free shipping.

Q was no exception to their fast shipping, but while unpacking I noticed a chip at top of heater cover. Just a sliver, and I was able to dump out the small glass pieces. It was still useable, but felt it should be right. Called VW and they shipped a new heater cover right out (called Friday, HC here Monday!) and included a screen kit for my inconvenience. AWESOME! HC was easy to change (check video) and was nice to get a look at the inside components.

Using the Q
Usually I use the whip, but do bags about once a week or if friends are over. My first bag experience, but think they are fine. If I have the time and feel like playing with things, I usually do the double vape on the whip that a few others have mentioned. Grind fine & vape @ 180-185 to get some good sweet tasting hits that leave you with that awesome heady groove. Save your duff in a separate container. Watch a movie, hang out, whatever. When its time to chill for sleep (or just sink into the couch), crank the heat up to 215 - 220 and re-vape your duff from earlier that night (day old duff seems much worse to me). As long as only a few hours old, it tastes just a little harsh (tho not spent), but man it knocks you back. Be careful not to have to do anything after, and dont be surprised if you wake in the morning to find the kitchen a mess with bare cupboards even tho you never remember having the munchies! I'd swear it wasn't me who ate that whole box of breakfast bars or drank all the OJ - but I live by myself and the dog can't reach that cupboard or open the fridge! Maybe it's the Q fairies stopping by while I enjoy my deep sleep?

AquaVape
Nice to have and works great with whip or bags. VaporStore has them (and also an FC discount). Its a pretty cool looking chunk of glass, and works great! My only complaints are the cleaning (not too bad, but not as easy as cleaning a tube), and the fact that it makes me hanker for a nice worked bubbler!

Tips
Too many to list here, and most can be found in posts throughout this topic. Key ones (as if you havent seen them already) -

Burn off the unit before using. Crank it up to full heat for 1/2 hour or so. I put the fan on 3 for the last 10 minutes. If you have bright light, you may see some whiffs of smoke come off it. Mine was in direct sunlight. A few whiffs almost as soon as I fired it up, but none after that or since.

CHANGE THE TUBING NOW!!!!! Ive had a VaporWarez for a few years. It came with, and has always had silicone. As soon as I got the Q, I swiped my hose from the VWZ. That stock vinyl crap is horrid! I took a half a draw dry (not even on Q) thru the brand new clear tubing and thought I was going to puke! Get some silicone ASAP, Bro! And, you dont really need the top of the line stuff talked about on FC (Tygon from USP). More on that in another post.

Elbow pack! If not, boost up your cyclone screen with a spiraled piece of wire or paperclip. I do both.

Dont be rough on your glass. So far no problems here, but I treat it like pretty thin glass that is going thru a lot of temp changes. It is!

Experiment, experiment, experiment. You may get something different from the Q than someone else, and as many have mentioned, that digital temp is not necessarily the actual vaping temp. But, Im very confident that it is always the same at a given setting. For instance digital may say 200C. That may really be 200C vape temp on my Q, or could be as far off as 180, 220 or anywhere in between, and may be a different margin on another Q. But whatever it is, I know when I turn on my Q in a day or 2 that 200C is going to be the exact same heat as it was last time it said 200C. I think my unit runs hot compared to others based on temps some people vape at, but maybe it's just my old lungs! I've got to be careful not to cough with anything over 190.

Think thats enough (too much?) for one post repeating much that has already been discussed. Sorry for the length and repetition, but as all who own this already know you just can't resist the urge to testify about the Extreme Q!

Will write a few more specific posts below about things mentioned here.
 
flotntoke,

FLskwat

VAPOLITICS!
Haha, excellent review Flotntoke...and I must say, I'm impressed to see a 2 messages poster say only 100% correct, objective and usefull comments/tips! Welcome and happy vaping man!
 
FLskwat,

flotntoke

thoroughly vaped
oldiebutgoodie said:
ttb3 said:
Can somebody with an aquavape tell me how you like using it with the EQ? I have a vaporbong setup right now, but I'd like to clear up some space on my coffee table and the aquavape's compact size is just what I need.

I use an AV, both with the whip and the bag, and btw it's ~6" x 1.5".

With the bag I fashioned an extension onto an elbow, i.e., a short piece of tubing on the elbow and attached to it a whip mouthpiece acting as a nipple. I also put a short piece of tubing onto the intake joint/mouthpiece on the bag. This way I can disconnect the bag from the elbow easily and immediately attach it to the AV. By the way, the Q's stock PVC tubing is not very friendly for attaching/removing the whip from the AV nipple; I find that the same size (5/16" ID) medical grade silicone tubing is much easier to work with.

The whip connection is of course straightforward. Few things I've learned: It takes a while to get the hang of sucking the water into the AV; you want the water level to be ~2" deep which gives maximum filtration and cooling, any more than that and you'll draw in water when you hit. This amount of water is abt what you have in, say, an inline tube bong, but considerably less than in a beaker. I chill the AV glass beforehand which helps keep the water cold longer. There are 6 slits, so the filtration action is sort of like a slitted down stem's; if you're in to the gazillion little bubbles action like some fancy inline's and perc's deliver, the AV's not for you.

I use Fan 1 to assist the draw (helps to run it for a minute before hitting; it will fill the tubing with vapor for you). At first it may not seem like you are getting much vapor, but you are - if you initially take little cigar-like puffs you'll see it in your exhale. If you take a long draw you'll see a nice vapor cloud trapped inside the AV. I use the re-breathing technique for maximum absorption so I see little or nothing in the exhale. Then for the last hit, stop the fan if running and remove the elbow; you'll clear the cloud in the AV plus the vapor remaining in the tube (which together can surprisingly be a lot ).

All in all a very nice little glass tool.

Couldn't agree more!

I do something similar with the AV and an extension/nipple. I use an old piece of silicone tubing (5/16 ID) cut to about 3 inches. Put it on the AV and leave it there. For whip, I just connect to the mouthpiece that came with Q. For bags, it fits right on the glass tubing/mouthpiece.

A bonus of using the AV with bags.... No need to hold a thumb over the end or a stopper. As long as you keep the AV upright, the water will hold in vapor with normal use. If you squeeze the bag - vapor will get out through the water. Or if you forget and lay the AV down flat, vapor will leak out.

I generally load elbows and like to recirculate meds between hits. Without the AV, I'd normally give a quick short blow to blow the material back into the cyclone bowl instead of stirring with wand. You don't want to do this with the AV, as water will go into your tubing (and possibly to the elbow). But, If you carefully tilt the AV to it's side, then upside down, all the water sits in the top (now the bottom) and the dome is nearly dry (just a little water in there). Now you can blow back with only air. Works great for clearing the elbow into the ABV jar too, if you do it like that.
 
flotntoke,

flotntoke

thoroughly vaped
FLskwat said:
Haha, excellent review Flotntoke...and I must say, I'm impressed to see a 2 messages poster say only 100% correct, objective and usefull comments/tips! Welcome and happy vaping man!
Haha! Thanks, man. Like I said, have been a lurker here for a few years. Almost every time I think of something useful to contribute - I find someone already did via search! And after reading this whole 100+ page post (and other long ones), figured that was the last thing anyone needed.

Since I didn't mention by name, many thanks for your earlier posts. Some others have also been a great source of info. At the risk of leaving any out (apologies if I do) others in no particular order are - oldiebutgoodie (Dude - I can't thank you enough!), max (of course), deepfried, stu, hereatlast, hery vappy, pappy (Always read your posts at least once!), Mr Smoke No More, Rockwise & even some of the detractors/whiners who go on about glass air streams and whatnot. Seldom agree with that last lot, but good to have all info for consideration. What a great community!

Anybody who is looking for good info on vaping or the Q would do well to read posts from any of the above.
 
flotntoke,

flotntoke

thoroughly vaped
Tubing for your Q
Posting in tubing thread too, but some of this should be here. If you're wondering about tubing, that thread is a sticky in the General Vaporizer Discussion. Check it out or the vaporpedia entry.

Even tho I love my Q, and IMO it is the best bang for the buck out there that stock clear vinyl tubing SUCKS! Not only did I not use it, I immediately took it out to the garage because it was stinking up the room.

If you are using that crap I strongly advise you switch it out soon. Not just for your health. Yeah I know. Weve probably all smoked with a crushed soda can or a toilet paper roll & aluminum foil bowl when in a pinch and idiotic teens, but get with it. That vinyl cant be good for you in the long term. But, it also really degrades the taste of your meds. Some people have access to better meds, or grow their own, or whatever but I know Im always trying to get my hands on the best available (within reasonable cost). Vaping makes that even more-so because of the difference in taste & effect. Why anyone (or how for that matter) would take some primo cheebs and suck it up through volatile smelling/tasting petro plastic is beyond me! If you're spend your hard earned ducketts on the best meds, shouldn't you throw a few well spent bucks at the delivery system?

Thats before we even get into the stiffness & the p.i.a. that can be. Pushing over your vape, stressing glass, etc.

OK. Enough on the rant. In my experience, silicone is the best way to go. Have had a VaporWarez for a few years. It came with and has always had silicone. I couldnt even use my Q till I swiped the tubing from the VaporWarez.

Since then I replaced it. I got 10 of the suggested Tygon 3350 from USP as many have mentioned. Nice stuff, but expensive. About $30 for the 10. Not really much to spend on an upgrade for this hobby, but overkill IMO. Any medical or food grade tubing will probably work as well.

I also like my tubing a little wider than what is usually suggested. Right now Im using a lower quality medical grade 3/8. Good stuff and probably still overkill. But its pliable, easy to work with, little or no taste and much more reasonably priced. You can get it at USP or other industrial/scientific outlets, but I just get it on Amazon since I buy damned near everything else there. Half the price of the 3350, and still Tygon med grade.

Your link text

There are others for even cheaper. I bought this for the VaporWarez 6 months back, but works great for the Q, too. And, comes in the smaller 5/16 diameter if you like that, or any of the common tubing sizes.

There are also a bunch of other food/beverage grade types on there for less $, also.

YMMV on which you like best, but if you have PVC or vinyl, no matter what the source, do your lungs and taste-buds a favor get rid of that crap and do a cheap easy upgrade.
 
flotntoke,

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
@Flotntoke
The 3/8" I.D. tubing that you use isn't loose on the glass pieces? When I went shopping for tubing, I brought an elbow with me, and when I tried to fit it into a piece of 3/8, it was loose and didn't seal at all. I had to go with the 5/16" I.D. that Arizer now apparently uses, too.

I'd like to pick up some silicone tubing online, but I don't want to blow the money on 3/8" if it won't fit snugly.
 
Stu,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
@flotntoke -

Thanks for all your great comments (and the kind personal salute, much appreciated).

A couple of follow-up comments:

Re the tubing, absolutely the need to switch to silicone. If you buy from an actual tubing supplier like USPlastic or McMaster-Carr, it is advisable to check the Durometer (hardness) rating. There is a "50" and a "70"; the former is softer and more pliable, IMO better. Re the ID, I'm using 5/16" even though I would prefer the wider airflow of 3/8" because, depending on the glass fittings you are using, the 3/8" may be tad oversize. E.g., ALT sells a tubing 18.8 joint adapter which is rather narrow, similarly so with the exit joint on the VT bowl I sometimes use instead of the Cyclone. I've also had success with the medical grade tubing sold by VaporStore that's used with both the Vaporfection and VaporTower.

Re the AquaVape, a nice little piece but, well, that one's a goner. I was concerned that with its shape, cleaning would require a good bit of handling and shaking, and sure enough, I dropped it. So . . .

I'm now using the Headford inline bubbler written about a lot here. $140 at ALT for the clear version. It's fantastic! About 1.5 oz of chilled water, great 11 slit inline filtration, triple-donut phatty with splash guard, and zero drag. Not a single defect, heavy glass. The 18.8 GonG female fits the Q's elbow (sans screen) and the above ref'd ALT adapter perfectly. I use Fan 1 or Fan 2 for push into the piece, makes the draw even easier. Smoooooth. And too cool looking. I still like my straight tube, but I have to agree with so many others here that inline is the way to go.

Anyway, welcome on board and . . . enjoy!
 
oldiebutgoodie,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Stu said:
@Flotntoke
The 3/8" I.D. tubing that you use isn't loose on the glass pieces? When I went shopping for tubing, I brought an elbow with me, and when I tried to fit it into a piece of 3/8, it was loose and didn't seal at all. I had to go with the 5/16" I.D. that Arizer now apparently uses, too.

I'd like to pick up some silicone tubing online, but I don't want to blow the money on 3/8" if it won't fit snugly.

See my comment immediately above. I also needed to go with 5/16". But I've read of others using SSV's 3/8" with the Q. I'm wondering whether differences in wall and softness (Durometer) might account for why one 3/8" would work and another not. In the 2 5/16" lengths I purchased separately from VaporStore, there was a small but definitely noticeable difference. IIRC there are posts suggesting even 1/8" Tygon from USP, too. So there must be other factors at work, and all I can think is, again, wall and elasticity.
 
oldiebutgoodie,
Top Bottom