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Stuck Cap
Consider this: The Anvil's tip's thread pattern is approximate 10mm in diameter and the Dani' thread pattern is approximate 15mm in in diameter. The Anvil cap only requires 3/4's of a turn to go from firmly screwed on to fully removed. The Dani requires 4 1/2 turns from firmly screwed on to fully removed.
So what does all the above info mean? It means that the Dani's cap has considerably more threads holding it securely on and many times more metal surface area in direct contact than the Anvil does. The more surface area the more potential for sticking, especially when you factor in bits of flower and reclaim.
I've had the Anvil cap come off in my pocket on several occasions and decided a case is definitely a must to pocket carry the Anvil. Not so for the Dani.
How to avoid a stuck cap:
Take a small strip (aprox 8mm x 5cm) of medium fine sand paper (300 grit), and form a band with the rough side on the inside. Place the tip inside the band and rotate the tip's sharp thread edges against the rough surface of the sand paper. Use the same strip of sand paper to remove the sharp edges of the threads in side of the cap using a small dowel, stick pen, chop stick or finger tip. Apply light to moderate pressure on the threads in both instances. Be sure not to miss the lower threads closest to the heat fins.
The whole procedure shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to accomplish. During the process, stop every so often, clean both sets of threads with a tissue/cloth and screw back together. It should be noticeable that the threads are becoming smoother and smoother to rotate with additional sanding. Dulling down the sharp edges is the goal here only. Less is more in this instance.
Test with a dry run heat cycle first, then go and enjoy this little marvel!
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