Tetra P80

[Momor]

After more time with my TP80 i can confirm that i usually manage to vape 4 baskets screens before needing to swap batterie
I use it in pure "on demand" heating, no warm-up, no cruise and I use temps between 220-250°C.
I only use warm-up to cruise when I want a single hit through my bubbler.

Overall I'm very happy with its performances but find the extraction quite uneven. What's right above the coils vapes very well but the little spaces between coils doesn't get hot enough to vaporise properly.

https://imgur.com/a/04YuluP

You can almost see the shape of a cross, like the king of cross that is formed by the coils (if that makes sense).

I tried every type of draw but that doesn't change this.
Would somebody have some tips for me to try to arrange that ?

Also, my resistance is set and locked as it's written under the battery lid but i can see my coils glowing a bit when starting at 230°C from cold.
In the picture below you can see the glow on warm-up in day light.

https://imgur.com/a/tK7WxOT

That glow doesn't bother me at all in itself but it may play a role in the uneven extraction ?

I also received the tank mouthpiece in exchange of the broken bendy I got and I looked it a lot. It cools very well for its size and is very confortable. It also pairs very nicely with my Piro

 

[GoldenBud]

I tried every type of draw but that doesn't change this.
Would somebody have some tips for me to try to arrange that ?

get the best weed you can, it shouldn't happen @ 235c with top shelf well dried and rich terpenes weed
you got buds which scored better results?

@Momor when you grind in the BCG, it leaves traces in the top/mid plate?

 

[Shit Snacks]

After more time with my TP80 i can confirm that i usually manage to vape 4 baskets screens before needing to swap batterie
I use it in pure "on demand" heating, no warm-up, no cruise and I use temps between 220-250°C.
I only use warm-up to cruise when I want a single hit through my bubbler.

Overall I'm very happy with its performances but find the extraction quite uneven. What's right above the coils vapes very well but the little spaces between coils doesn't get hot enough to vaporise properly.

https://imgur.com/a/04YuluP

You can almost see the shape of a cross, like the king of cross that is formed by the coils (if that makes sense).

I tried every type of draw but that doesn't change this.
Would somebody have some tips for me to try to arrange that ?

Also, my resistance is set and locked as it's written under the battery lid but i can see my coils glowing a bit when starting at 230°C from cold.
In the picture below you can see the glow on warm-up in day light.

https://imgur.com/a/tK7WxOT

That glow doesn't bother me at all in itself but it may play a role in the uneven extraction ?

I also received the tank mouthpiece in exchange of the broken bendy I got and I looked it a lot. It cools very well for its size and is very confortable. It also pairs very nicely with my Piro

Eh that AVB looks fine to me, you could try lowering the temp, drawing slower or faster, grinding differently, different herbs...

 

[Momor]

@GoldenBud, i have the best weed i can get and I think it's top shelf (at least for where I live).
My weed doesn't leaves much traces in my BCG. A little bit but not to the point to start to gum it up.

@Shit Snacks, unfortunately I haven't access to different herbs a the same time but i tried coarse and medium grind (not fine yet though) and from extremely slow draw to very fast with no real change.
It reassures me that you think that AVB is fine. The thing that bothers me a little bit is that if I put those basket screens pictured in my last post in my TM/TM2 i can still get a decent/semi decent draw/cloud out of it. I certainly can live with that

Thank you both for the reply

 

[GoldenBud]

MY BAD SORRY
@Momor
"Also, my resistance is set and locked as it's written under the battery lid but i can see my coils glowing a bit when starting at 230°C from cold."

not good. we'll need to recalibrate in dark room, set temp to 500F and reduce 0.001 or 0.002 resistance, locked, does it still glowing?

 

[almost there]

After more time with my TP80 i can confirm that i usually manage to vape 4 baskets screens before needing to swap batterie
I use it in pure "on demand" heating, no warm-up, no cruise and I use temps between 220-250°C.
I only use warm-up to cruise when I want a single hit through my bubbler.

Overall I'm very happy with its performances but find the extraction quite uneven. What's right above the coils vapes very well but the little spaces between coils doesn't get hot enough to vaporise properly.

https://imgur.com/a/04YuluP

You can almost see the shape of a cross, like the king of cross that is formed by the coils (if that makes sense).

I tried every type of draw but that doesn't change this.
Would somebody have some tips for me to try to arrange that ?

Also, my resistance is set and locked as it's written under the battery lid but i can see my coils glowing a bit when starting at 230°C from cold.
In the picture below you can see the glow on warm-up in day light.

https://imgur.com/a/tK7WxOT

That glow doesn't bother me at all in itself but it may play a role in the uneven extraction ?

I also received the tank mouthpiece in exchange of the broken bendy I got and I looked it a lot. It cools very well for its size and is very confortable. It also pairs very nicely with my Piro

Seems like your resistance is too high. lower the resistance in .001 increments till your coils only glow slightly when you’re in a dark room.

As for the uneven extraction, I recommend the warmup mode to get the heater evenly hot vs hitting it at high temps in order to get enough heat.

 

[Shit Snacks]

@GoldenBud, i have the best weed i can get and I think it's top shelf (at least for where I live).
My weed doesn't leaves much traces in my BCG. A little bit but not to the point to start to gum it up.

@Shit Snacks, unfortunately I haven't access to different herbs a the same time but i tried coarse and medium grind (not fine yet though) and from extremely slow draw to very fast with no real change.
It reassures me that you think that AVB is fine. The thing that bothers me a little bit is that if I put those basket screens pictured in my last post in my TM/TM2 i can still get a decent/semi decent draw/cloud out of it. I certainly can live with that

Thank you both for the reply

Oh yeah making sure it is nicely heat-soaked is a good point, the other option is you can try getting a different stem where you can load deeper into the joint, you may need higher temp settings, but the extraction could be a bit more even although it might not, hard to say! Yeah the test is always stirring and or loading into something else, in my experience the extra vapor leftover from whatever might be missed is pretty negligible generally, but everyone has their different needs! Maybe load a little less?

 

[gordontreeman]

@Momor I think the best advice was from @almost there—I get the most even results with my tp80 at lower temps after preheating with w2c than at a very high temp in pure on demand mode. Mine also doesn’t glow much so maybe it’s worth fiddling with your resistance as others have suggested.

 

[Momor]

reduce 0.001 or 0.002 resistance

lower the resistance in .001 increments till your coils only glow slightly when you’re in a dark room.

I tried that but I think I still prefer the performance with the resistance it was set at originally. I may try again later.

As for the uneven extraction, I recommend the warmup mode to get the heater evenly hot vs hitting it at high temps in order to get enough heat.

In the pictures above I used warmup to cruise at 235°C, going for 1 hit extraction with a dry bubbler.
As @Shit Snacks suggests, i could probably wait a bit more in order to heat soak the hater part.

I use real on demand and high to very high temps when using the tp80 with a mouthpiece and usually finish my bowl in a few hits, so I rotate the MP each hit and get very even AVB.

Thanks for your input all.

 

[GoldenBud]

In the pictures above I used warmup to cruise at 235°C, going for 1 hit extraction with a dry bubbler.

yeah for people who like fast draw, the exact calibration is not important. the velocity of your draw reduce the temp of the heater, enjoy!

 

[Shit Snacks]

I tried that but I think I still prefer the performance with the resistance it was set at originally. I may try again later.


In the pictures above I used warmup to cruise at 235°C, going for 1 hit extraction with a dry bubbler.
As @Shit Snacks suggests, i could probably wait a bit more in order to heat soak the hater part.

I use real on demand and high to very high temps when using the tp80 with a mouthpiece and usually finish my bowl in a few hits, so I rotate the MP each hit and get very even AVB.

Thanks for your input all.

Yeah honestly I don't use warm up at all, I just said it to cruise at my high temp, depending on that number is basically how long I let it heat soak, how fast and full of the hit I want, for my one hitter bowls through water (yeah so extra heat soak certainly should help, but also try loading the tiny bit less too, you might be surprised!)

 

[gordontreeman]

Yeah I think just turning on cruise and waiting 30 seconds or so is functionally the same as w2c. It really just serves to get the boro tubes in the heater soaked so that they stay roughly at temp even with a long and fast draw.

 

[GoldenBud]

yup. according to my testings while the coils are at 240c, the glass is around 210c-215c (after it's being well soaked). maybe that's why it is still tasty @ 235c-240c with the right buds/configurations

 

[Dr. G]

Greetings, I am sure this is written somewhere on this thread...I looked and could not find the info so...could someone tell me what the number on the inside lid means please?

 

[gordontreeman]

Greetings, I am sure this is written somewhere on this thread...I looked and could not find the info so...could someone tell me what the number on the inside lid means please?

It’s the default resistance for your coil from Lamart’s calibration.

 

[Dr. G]

It’s the default resistance for your coil from Lamart’s calibration.

Thank you. Forgive me...which means that is how much heat it will take before combustion?

 

[gordontreeman]

Thank you. Forgive me...which means that is how much heat it will take before combustion?

No, it’s the resistance that Lamart thought your coil should be set at for temp control. It’s a setting for the algorithm that your mod uses for temperature control. You don’t need to change it at all. It’s probably a decent idea to leave if alone if you’re not sure what it is. Some users like to try different values or want a specific experience so they tweak it. Lamart engraves it in the lid so you can easily get back to stock.

 

[Dr. G]

No, it’s the resistance that Lamart thought your coil should be set at for temp control. It’s a setting for the algorithm that your mod uses for temperature control. You don’t need to change it at all. It’s probably a decent idea to leave if alone if you’re not sure what it is. Some users like to try different values or want a specific experience so they tweak it. Lamart engraves it in the lid so you can easily get back to stock.

My goodness! There is just so much to learn! Thank you kindly. I had no idea. I have no idea what an amazing vape I have. I wish there was something I could read to educate further. I truly appreciate the information Gordon Tree Man. Thank you.

 

[gordontreeman]

My goodness! There is just so much to learn! Thank you kindly. I had no idea. I have no idea what an amazing vape I have. I wish there was something I could read to educate further. I truly appreciate the information Gordon Tree Man. Thank you.

There is a manual on the Lamart website that goes through the various settings and how to change them. He also has a section that discusses popular ways people have use the tp80. It’s all just suggestions but have a look.

Personally I would leave any of the temp regulation settings (the pid values and resistance) of your mod alone until you know enough to know what you’re changing and why. The rest of it is just personal preference. For example, I almost always use w2c and take a single hit, so I turn the eco mode off entirely.

 

[Dr. G]

There is a manual on the Lamart website that goes through the various settings and how to change them. He also has a section that discusses popular ways people have use the tp80. It’s all just suggestions but have a look.

Personally I would leave any of the temp regulation settings (the pid values and resistance) of your mod alone until you know enough to know what you’re changing and why. The rest of it is just personal preference. For example, I almost always use w2c and take a single hit, so I turn the eco mode off entirely.

I went to the website and I see past the earrings the manuals and reading material. I did not notice that with all the times I have been on there. The coil resistance info is there and much more. I will have a cozy day tomorrow to read through and learn more. I will not touch anything. Right now, I am using it and its perfect each time. I just turn it on. I have no idea what is going on in there. But, I will. I want to know. Thanks again.

 

[gordontreeman]

I went to the website and I see past the earrings the manuals and reading material. I did not notice that with all the times I have been on there. The coil resistance info is there and much more. I will have a cozy day tomorrow to read through and learn more. I will not touch anything. Right now, I am using it and its perfect each time. I just turn it on. I have no idea what is going on in there. But, I will. I want to know. Thanks again.

Yeah I’ve not seen any good reason to change the heater calibration, but knowing about the warm to cruise, cruise, and temp stepper modes is nice. I don’t use temp stepper often (just do it manually), but it’s fun to show friends as a sort of party trick. And I love w2c/cruise .

 

[EarthworldTim]

I wish there was something I could read to educate further.

You mean like 224 pages of a thread dedicated to the TP80?

I get it though and it would be nice to have a distillation of all the ins and outs of operation but also quite overwhelming for new owners perhaps. I gradually tested different techniques and temps with different pieces and stems and just search this thread as needed for some guidance. I'm still working on dialing in some techniques and it's been almost a year.

 

[Dr. G]

You mean like 224 pages of a thread dedicated to the TP80?

I get it though and it would be nice to have a distillation of all the ins and outs of operation but also quite overwhelming for new owners perhaps. I gradually tested different techniques and temps with different pieces and stems and just search this thread as needed for some guidance. I'm still working on dialing in some techniques and it's been almost a year.

To tell you the truth...if it wasn't for this Forum...I would be clueless. I have managed what I have so far because of people like Shit Snacks, Gordon Tree Man and others that are so nice to share valuable information. I have a new wonderful hobby...I read threads here all day long...I enjoy it tremendously.

 

[Zambilandian]

https://imgur.com/a/1qYRdkG

Round 2

 

[babyskunk]

Does anyone with warranty repair experience remember what sort of turn around time they had? I know Ralph’s a busy dude and don’t want to bother/rush him but I was just kinda curious what to expect. Thanks!