GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
nope, with the 4 tubes heater the coils won't even glow at 500f (max temp)
it's safe even at 500f with slow draw (dabs, ice, etc)
Tetra P80
- Thread starter funkyjunky
- Start date
it's safe even at 500f with slow draw (dabs, ice, etc)
BubbleDrop
Well-Known Member
I checked and 445°F is 230°C.
I've never tried such high temps with the P80, I usually vape between 175°C and 190°C !
Do you still get taste at this temp ? I guess I should try one day.
DryBonesufo
Well-Known Member
I use it on demand mode and hold it for about 5 secs before I take the first draw.First hit terp terp terps, 2nd, 3rd, 4th hit not as tasty but cloud production is insane. I have a firm but steady draw for about 5-10 secs.
Are we able to adjust the watts? Or the standard 70.0 watts normal?
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
That is exactly how you would use a high temp, in on demand mode with short manual preheat, you're using it sort of more instant on demand manual style with one temp is all... Temperature settings are relative!
70 watts is just the maximum, it is only pulling that much right away to heat up but not even, it is typically below if you look at what the screen is doing while you are using it... You are able to adjust that maximum to be lower, could improve battery life a little, but not really necessary in my experience, especially if you are using Molicell P26A or P28A since those are the best batteries imo
thunderstealer1337
Well-Known Member
Ugh what, they glow red at like 420ish?, this is how I calibrated my tetrax, whatever the glow looked like on a p80 I tried to match it on a tetrax since the engraved resistance was way off.
If you visit the terax thread this is one of the suggested things to do
Vaporific
All who wander are not lost...
Shhhhhh
I want to get a spiked bendy and another stem. When I ordered my P80 I requested a nub and tank but I got 2 tanks instead and didn’t say or do anything about it. I’m a big native user too and did buy some glass connectors for my water rig and have used it that a couple of times. I look forward to a new colored stem; the tanks I have are both clear.As for performance, wow! I’ve been using mostly cruise mode and really haven’t figured out nor have a need for warm up and temp step modes. I use on demand occasionally. I start at 380f with 3-4 draws for one sesh, and finish off 409-410f with a few more pulls. Vapor is nice and wispy full and never gets too hot. The tank on the other hand, literally and figuratively, does! I learned the first time, lol. I gotta say the P80 rocks. Battery life could be a bit better and I have it in eco mode too, but overall one of my fave vapes!
EDIT: I’m also using rimmed basket screens - much easier and cleaner. The trade off is limited load capacity but there’s always room for another load
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DryBonesufo
Well-Known Member
What does eco mode do?Shhhhhh
As for performance, wow! I’ve been using mostly cruise mode and really haven’t figured out nor have a need for warm up and temp step modes. I use on demand occasionally. I start at 380f with 3-4 draws for one sesh, and finish off 409-410f with a few more pulls. Vapor is nice and wispy full and never gets too hot. The tank on the other hand, literally and figuratively, does! I learned the first time, lol. I gotta say the P80 rocks. Battery life could be a bit better and I have it in eco mode too, but overall one of my fave vapes!
EDIT: I’m also using rimmed basket screens - much easier and cleaner. The trade off is limited load capacity but there’s always room for another load
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Senses when you are drawing, so it turns the power way down, to maintain a much lower set temp, but that means it may take a bit when you start drawing again, it's for battery conservation primarily, not sooo necessary
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
funky been said that that's how you calibrate the tubo not the tetra
in this thread, need to find exactly where he said that..
probably the way to calibrate the 4 tubes is just to find the spot, when it's slightly glowing, and then take it 0.001 or 0.002 lower
EddIW
Well-Known Member
Just found this. However my P80 that I have glows at max temp in the dark, it was also broken and fixed by lamart at one point so he sent it calibrated to glow at max temp. Also recently my tetra dual for some reason lost performance, to the point I needed to change the coil number from .207 to .217. It now has the coil glow at max temp in a dark room and the performance is back. Cannot remember if my P80 had the coil glow before I sent it for repairs.on a properly set up tetra heater the coils are NOT supposed to glow at 260C/500F (triple tubo heater will glow very faintly in the dark).
every unit gets calibrated to the exact mod used in the all integrated build so that they supply the displayed temperature 5mm above the internal screen after a warmup cycle. which means the temperatures are accurate at least if you believe my thermocouple (i do).
if resistance is increased/decreased, the warmup function will be affected. by doing this the general hotness/coldness of the displayed temperature scale is shifted up or downards.
i strongly recommend against messing with the tcr number since this variable influences what 1degreeC on display is in reality. by changing tcr number it will mess up everything. (this is true for all 510 attachments, of course you can find values that work for the particular temp setting you are looking for but they are not making the scale accurate at all).
what are you basing your temperature knowledge on @oddjobold, are you sure about the accuracy of that device? i suspect every device has their own scale/calibration. also avb on 210c on conduction devices is not 210c on convection devices.
the tetra settings parameters are best not touched since they are calibrated and carefully measured out (tcr) for the all integrated devices from me.
what is totally game is the temperature setting of course.
the heater does need a heat soak to supply the displayed temperature (warmup cycle, 30-60seconds cruise). this can be compensated by using higher temperature setting if wanting to use on demand.
try 235degC on demand and you should be happy.
good moment to reference this write up: TUBO/TETRA usage patterns
DryBonesufo
Well-Known Member
I see in the menu that there’s an option to change the LED?
thunderstealer1337
Well-Known Member
hmm I think you are mistaken, this is literally how i got my tetrax to function, the tetrax is the same exact 4 coil heater as the p80, I recall the red glow was literally the last final trick to do the +/- .001 or .002 resistance changes.
looks like edidiw just verified the p80 (tetrax same heater) glows at max temp - after it was sent in for issues
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
see here:hmm I think you are mistaken, this is literally how i got my tetrax to function, the tetrax is the same exact 4 coil heater as the p80, I recall the red glow was literally the last final trick to do the +/- .001 or .002 resistance changes.
looks like edidiw just verified the p80 (tetrax same heater) glows at max temp - after it was sent in for issues
Tetra P80
This thing is a beast… using it on demand at 445f . Is that an ok temp to use on demand? I hope it doesn’t put a lot of strain on the coils… the tetra is a work of art nope, with the 4 tubes heater the coils won't even glow at 500f (max temp) it's safe even at 500f with slow draw (dabs, ice, etc)
fuckcombustion.com
maybe he's calibrating it so the user will not have to raise the temp too much? we're speaking about 0.001 to here or there... or maybe 0.002
maybe he's private-calibrating if he knows the user likes to vape on low temp? idk...
btw @Makroskop thanks for your iceolator flattening method.. works great in the winter... 260c for iceolator (but i have 3 tubes heater) i can't find a better device to do concentrates
requires only 1 stir
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tetra and tetrax heaters are not supposed to glow at max temp. if they do they are running hotter than calibrated.
as eddiw posted its recommended to increase the temp rather than resistance to get the performance you need.
there is a list on the manual page for tetrax with values to adjust according to the mod used from the calibrated number given with the units. however each mod is a bit different in readong the resistance.
as a ball park rule: make the heater glow very faintly in the dark at max temp and then decrease resistance so it DOES NOT glow at max temp.
@EddIW if you found a new value that works as you know from before, fine. if it gets worse again please contact me.
as eddiw posted its recommended to increase the temp rather than resistance to get the performance you need.
there is a list on the manual page for tetrax with values to adjust according to the mod used from the calibrated number given with the units. however each mod is a bit different in readong the resistance.
as a ball park rule: make the heater glow very faintly in the dark at max temp and then decrease resistance so it DOES NOT glow at max temp.
@EddIW if you found a new value that works as you know from before, fine. if it gets worse again please contact me.
DryBonesufo
Well-Known Member
Any recommendations for third party stems?
Vaporific
All who wander are not lost...
Depends what you’re looking for. I’m no expert though (many others are and have more experience) I just ordered a couple of new ones from Lamart’s site - one a short spiked amber bendy stem and long blue bending one, and a few other minor accessories. Lots of mentions herein about 3rd party options. I paid the cheapest shipping option without tracking so whenever it gets here (Northeast USA) it’ll be fine. I really like my tank stems too that came with my P80 and the short spiked bendy was out of stock when I got my P80 last year so this will be a welcomed change.
Vaporific
All who wander are not lost...
Deja vu all over again. I guess the fake news P80s for sale posts were removed - thankfully. I was getting a bit lost with that anyway. Do your homework with the secondary market or be patient and wait for a drop like I did, which I eventually scored a prebuilt after a few drops. Worth the wait! The P80 is amazing and beautiful to behold.Depends what you’re looking for. I’m no expert though (many others are and have more experience) I just ordered a couple of new ones from Lamart’s site - one a short spiked amber bendy stem and long blue bending one, and a few other minor accessories. Lots of mentions herein about 3rd party options. I paid the cheapest shipping option without tracking so whenever it gets here (Northeast USA) it’ll be fine. I really like my tank stems too that came with my P80 and the short spiked bendy was out of stock when I got my P80 last year so this will be a welcomed change.
Now back to our regularly scheduled thread…
Question: not that I have a need to and hope I never do, but is there any way to remove and replace the screen above the heater? I do gently brush it off regularly. Just curious. Sorry if this has been asked before.
thunderstealer1337
Well-Known Member
My first used p80 the owners never kept the screen clean, it was a nightmare getting all the chunks out, I swore to never use the p80 unless it's a wpa so the bowl never gets positioned to fall into the heater, it's just a mesh screen so all debris falls in.
Shine a light between the body into the glass and see all the shadow from debris, now on mine i just used upside down all the time - screen stays brand new with no debris in them
Shine a light between the body into the glass and see all the shadow from debris, now on mine i just used upside down all the time - screen stays brand new with no debris in them
Razhumikin
Well-Known Member
You can achieve the same thing with a stem by just keeping it angled when you use it and removing the stem between hits.
gimmefiction7
Member
This is my favorite dry stem for the P80: https://vapefiend.co.uk/collections...ana-cooling-mouthpiece?variant=12651731812436
Basically like a plus-sized "nub" mouthpiece. Does a great job cooling and smoothing out the vapor, and it has a nice draw resistance that seems to make the bowl cook more evenly
BubbleDrop
Well-Known Member
I have this stem as well. It is indeed the best stem I have tried for the P80 (compared to the Nub, Tank and Bendy).
For some reason, the draw resistance is perfect and I'm getting the best hits with this stem.
I still use the Bendy mostly, as I find this stem annoying to clean !
gimmefiction7
Member
Yeah I found cleaning a hassle at first since it traps a ton of water, but I picked up a good trick from someone on reddit for this stem & similar stems - just dry it out in your oven on a low temp after you clean it. Clean the gunk out of the stem with isopropyl alcohol, rinse it all out with water, then finish it off in the oven to get all the water out of there. Works like a charm!I have this stem as well. It is indeed the best stem I have tried for the P80 (compared to the Nub, Tank and Bendy).
For some reason, the draw resistance is perfect and I'm getting the best hits with this stem.
I still use the Bendy mostly, as I find this stem annoying to clean !
BubbleDrop
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the trick, I'll definitely try this !
That being said, will it smell like pizza ?
enrarit
Well-Known Member
I've had good results with this method for cleaning bubblers.
I blow out as much water as possible, then fill it with Everclear/Stryker and shake vigorously.
I then gently blow the E/S out as much as I can, cognizant of the moisture from my breath (gently!!!), then stand let the remainder evap.
Never have had any residual water left.
YMMV.
I blow out as much water as possible, then fill it with Everclear/Stryker and shake vigorously.
I then gently blow the E/S out as much as I can, cognizant of the moisture from my breath (gently!!!), then stand let the remainder evap.
Never have had any residual water left.
YMMV.