TC Box Mods Firmware Discussions and Customizing

Easywider

Simple is the way
I'll have to try that. Thanks for sharing.

I took a screenshot of some settings and a brief explanation @analytika had posted when I had first ordered my dna c. These were for the splinter.

037-CE571-BFA5-4-F0-B-9-BAE-CABD5951419-E.jpg
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
I took a screenshot of some settings and a brief explanation @analytika had posted when I had first ordered my dna c. These were for the splinter.

037-CE571-BFA5-4-F0-B-9-BAE-CABD5951419-E.jpg
I tried this at 40W, Boost: 10, Warmth:10 and got good consistent medium clouds and finished a basket in a half dozen really big hits. I don't know about how much more rapid that was but it was consistent hit to hit and it got going right away as advertised. So fun how versatile Splinters are.
 
another question I did not find a definite answer for:

when using FC share / evic, can the box mod still be used for "normal" liquid tanks (at least in wattage mode if not TC)?
 
fluffyBollocks,

Easywider

Simple is the way
another question I did not find a definite answer for:

when using FC share / evic, can the box mod still be used for "normal" liquid tanks (at least in wattage mode if not TC)?

Yes, both of those firmwares will allow multiple profiles. You could have one calibrated for a splinter another for ejuice another for a wax rda etc.

The FCSHARE is basically an index of dry herb attachment profiles for DNA mods. For me this is one of the biggest attractions/benefits of using a DNA mod. Someone ( @HerbieVonVapster ) has taken the time to carefully craft profiles that take these devices to the next level. Makes life easy buy a dna, install profile, and your rollin.

Having these profiles also gave me the confidence to start editing and tweaking them because I know if I mess up some settings I can just download the same profile again and be right as rain in minutes.

Sometimes this happens more then once a day :lol:
 
Yes, both of those firmwares will allow multiple profiles. You could have one calibrated for a splinter another for ejuice another for a wax rda etc.

The FCSHARE is basically an index of dry herb attachment profiles for DNA mods. For me this is one of the biggest attractions/benefits of using a DNA mod. Someone ( @HerbieVonVapster ) has taken the time to carefully craft profiles that take these devices to the next level. Makes life easy buy a dna, install profile, and your rollin.

Having these profiles also gave me the confidence to start editing and tweaking them because I know if I mess up some settings I can just download the same profile again and be right as rain in minutes.

Sometimes this happens more then once a day :lol:

thanks thats great to hear, so the Triade 250c will stay :)

also a massive thank you to all the people putting their effort into this project and sharing their work and/or wisdom with us lazy people.
 
Last edited:

roberto1155

Well-Known Member
Hey guys I am having an issue with sur_myevic and was wondering if anyone could help me out. I have a Wismec RXG3D running build 190220 version 1.11 of sur_myevic (running a splinter z btw). I usually run it in TCR mode, but recently when ever I go to fire it in TCR, it kicks me back to VW mode. After that it is stuck in VW mode and won’t let me change to any other modes. Has any one encountered this before? I have try to reinstall the software many times but it eventually just does the same thing. Thank you for any help in advance

Ps - has anyone used the site fasttech.com before? They have good prices on mods but was not sure if they could be trusted.
 
roberto1155,

almost there

Well-Known Member
Hey guys I am having an issue with sur_myevic and was wondering if anyone could help me out. I have a Wismec RXG3D running build 190220 version 1.11 of sur_myevic (running a splinter z btw). I usually run it in TCR mode, but recently when ever I go to fire it in TCR, it kicks me back to VW mode. After that it is stuck in VW mode and won’t let me change to any other modes. Has any one encountered this before? I have try to reinstall the software many times but it eventually just does the same thing. Thank you for any help in advance

Ps - has anyone used the site fasttech.com before? They have good prices on mods but was not sure if they could be trusted.
That has happened on my first g3d. What I did was contacted the vendor and had it replaced, lol. These wismecs have terrible tc but I love them. Don’t bother trying to fix it, my guess is it’s a defect in the board.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Ps - has anyone used the site fasttech.com before? They have good prices on mods but was not sure if they could be trusted.
Fasttech is legit, yeah. Like all the China stores it takes forever to get delivered but for some stuff it's worth it.
 

Hippie

Well-Known Member
@roberto1155

Yep - when the mod thinks you're waay off with the TCR or cold resistance settings it will switch to power mode

And

Yep - I use fasttech a lot. Always check their discussion forums and the reviews for what you're thinking of buying, and check the promotions section on the forum as they put up a lot of promo codes. ePackets usually take about 10 days to get to me in the UK and usually labelled with $15 value ;)
 

roberto1155

Well-Known Member
That’s disappointing to hear about my current mod, I’ve been using it in VW and it’s been good so I’ll probaly stick to that.

It’s good to hear fasttech isn’t too sketchy. I was looking at a lost vapes tirade that I might pick up, I’ll defiantly check out the forum.

Thanks again for all the help!
 
roberto1155,

Hippie

Well-Known Member
I'd take it off, give the contacts a clean on both sides, use a wooden stick to check the springyness of the centre pin of the 510, then re-read the cold resistance and start again.
Odds are the mod had a brainfart when you changed batteries and decided to lock in a new cold resistance value without telling you.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Yes, both of those firmwares will allow multiple profiles. You could have one calibrated for a splinter another for ejuice another for a wax rda etc.

The FCSHARE is basically an index of dry herb attachment profiles for DNA mods. For me this is one of the biggest attractions/benefits of using a DNA mod. Someone ( @HerbieVonVapster ) has taken the time to carefully craft profiles that take these devices to the next level. Makes life easy buy a dna, install profile, and your rollin.

Having these profiles also gave me the confidence to start editing and tweaking them because I know if I mess up some settings I can just download the same profile again and be right as rain in minutes.

Sometimes this happens more then once a day :lol:

Another feature is the backups. Missed this settings at first there kinda hidden up in the toolbar under help :)

Also thank you, Makes me happy to know there helping others with enjoying there new DNA Mods. I think we have a a fair amount of people getting the DNA chips so I'm happy do what I can to help.

If you or anyone else find any kick ass settings well editing and tweaking do share. There's always room for improvement and I'm working with bunch different device. Going try toss up a file with some material CSV files for those looking to experiment more.

it's easy to exchange custom material on the forum too so if find something that works feel free to share it.

Here is a DJLSB version 3.5 as example. Copy paste to text editor save as .CSV then import into materials :) Opposite to share one.



"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-58,0.92304515838623
68,0.999991774559021
212,1.11998772621155
302,1.14999651908875
392,1.18998205661774
482,1.25498795509338
572,1.28699994087219
800,1.37298059463501
 

Easywider

Simple is the way
it's easy to exchange custom material on the forum too so if find something that works feel free to share it.

Here is a DJLSB version 3.5 as example. Copy paste to text editor save as .CSV then import into materials :) Opposite to share one.



"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-58,0.92304515838623
68,0.999991774559021
212,1.11998772621155
302,1.14999651908875
392,1.18998205661774
482,1.25498795509338
572,1.28699994087219
800,1.37298059463501

Thanks for this! I just learned how to create material files with "wire wizard" wish I had found this when I had my Stempod :doh: I just generated files for 316SSL 20gauge 9 wraps 3.5 ID if anyone is running this build on Stempod you can use the following material file.

Code:
"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-40.0000,0.9347440000
68.0000,1.0000000000
122.0000,1.0300000000
212.0000,1.0800000000
302.0000,1.1260000000
392.0000,1.1680000000
482.0000,1.2070000000
572.0000,1.2460000000

I have some wax atomizers running some custom coils that I just paired with some DNA mods can't wait to start testing some custom materials @HerbieVonVapster what would the DJLSB file be used for ?
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Thanks for this! I just learned how to create material files with "wire wizard" wish I had found this when I had my Stempod :doh: I just generated files for 316SSL 20gauge 9 wraps 3.5 ID if anyone is running this build on Stempod you can use the following material file.

Code:
"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-40.0000,0.9347440000
68.0000,1.0000000000
122.0000,1.0300000000
212.0000,1.0800000000
302.0000,1.1260000000
392.0000,1.1680000000
482.0000,1.2070000000
572.0000,1.2460000000

I have some wax atomizers running some custom coils that I just paired with some DNA mods can't wait to start testing some custom materials @HerbieVonVapster what would the DJLSB file be used for ?

DJLSB is a reviewer that worked with the DNA chips. Since he has equipment to test materials. I used some of his material files for the FCSHARE files.

In below video if you skip too a hour and 13 mins is some interesting data if can't watch whole video least skip to there.


The is DJLSB med temperature version for SS316L. I tried a whole bunch of different ones when I first got into the DNA chips. Sorry I just copy pasted that one as example.
Since it was requested I did uploaded a bunch to FCSHARE. These are ones I have run across working on the different 510 device.

Stempod is one of the hardest due to replaceable coil. All wire is not created equal and a SS316L clapton XYZ might run great with one brand of SS wire used. Someone else using a different SS316L wire might get a different experience.



With DNA chips seems to be one of these issues that cause the most of issues with temperature control.

Incorrect cold OHMS

Incorrect material file

Incorrect Mod resistance


After the main issues it's things like 510 air flow. The distance from the coil that different screens and stems cause start coming into play.

Add that to things like incorrect setting wattage too low or preheat punch too high just finishes the picture.


*I personally feel the case thermal analyzer plays a role. In above video DJLSB disagrees.
It's free to do and see no reason not too. Maybe placebo affect but I feel makes a difference and recommend it.
 

Alex3oe

Accessory Maker
I read about this issue somewhere, but can't remember if here or in evolv forums or Reddit maybe. So please don't blame me if it was answered here already.
Flashed newest fcshare on my DNA250c. Now when I try to change profile with a warm coil (different ohms) I stuck in a loop. Neither Yes nor No or Measure Again works. Is this a bug in a new evolv firmware and/or can be fixed by settings?
 
Alex3oe,

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I read about this issue somewhere, but can't remember if here or in evolv forums or Reddit maybe. So please don't blame me if it was answered here already.
Flashed newest fcshare on my DNA250c. Now when I try to change profile with a warm coil (different ohms) I stuck in a loop. Neither Yes nor No or Measure Again works. Is this a bug in a new evolv firmware and/or can be fixed by settings?

EDIT the profiles do not have cold OHM in them. I try remove them to force a remeasure the first time someone uses the device. That way its not using my cold OHMs. You can enter your cold OMH manually from top of that screen. Sorry about the confusion there.

Let me see if I can recreate error and if any thing in new upload changed. What services pack are you running?. The issues a new service fix on the 250c in the most recent version. I use international version of this on the mac.

Posted November 27, 2018
EScribe Suite 2.0 SP19
For US-based customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP19_US_ServicePack.exe
For US-based customers (Mac): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP19_US.pkg
For international customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP19_INT_ServicePack.exe
For international customers (Mac): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP19_INT.pkg
For customers using Linux, see the beta thread.

--- DNA 250 Color (firmware 1.1 SP38) ---
Fixed a firmware crash that could occasionally come up when the device had been idle for a while.
Fixed spurious Temperature Protected errors that could crop up in certain high-CPU themes with Replay off.
--- DNA Go (firmware 1.1 SP38) ---
Fixed a firmware crash that could occasionally come up when the device had been idle for a while.
--- EScribe ---
In Display tab -> Device Monitor, 'Remove Readout' no longer crashes.
--- Production Utility ---
Firmware -> Browse no longer crashes.
DNA Go now does Fire Tests correctly.
 
Last edited:
HerbieVonVapster,
  • Like
Reactions: Alex3oe

Alex3oe

Accessory Maker
EDIT the profiles do not have cold OHM in them. I try remove them to force a remeasure the first time someone uses the device. That way its not using my cold OHMs. You can enter your cold OMH manually from top of that screen. Sorry about the confusion there.

Let me see if I can recreate error and if any thing in new upload changed. What services pack are you running?. The issues a new service fix on the 250c in the most recent version. I use international version of this on the mac.


Please don't apologize, your a hero here, doing so much for community, sharing DNA profiles for different mods and helping people :)

It seems you're absolutely right and the problem is caused by an 0 ohms setting in one (or more? or the current active?) profile. I can remember, I did a "Measure Ohms" with my Splinter Z on the mod at each profile before uploading the last time. Doing this again with the new firmware fixed the problem.


Thanks once more @HerbieVonVapster :bowdown: :tup:
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Please don't apologize, your a hero here, doing so much for community, sharing DNA profiles for different mods and helping people :)

It seems you're absolutely right and the problem is caused by an 0 ohms setting in one (or more? or the current active?) profile. I can remember, I did a "Measure Ohms" with my Splinter Z on the mod at each profile before uploading the last time. Doing this again with the new firmware fixed the problem.


Thanks once more @HerbieVonVapster :bowdown: :tup:

Np just glad it was a simple fix.

Wanted to share couple things going on. First that I have decided to add the IMP support on FCSHARES. I should have one to play with next week.

Also sorry for delays adding the elite to my collection has slowed me down a on updating the files on FCSHARE. Been working on them again and should have the splinterZ up soon.
If anything is wonky please do let me know i'm glad when someone points it out. With all the um heavy testing :science: sometimes I miss things.

I also been discussing a few things with one of Evlov mods. Some of the info online is either outdated wrong or more applies to e-cig usage. It's great to have someone knowledgeable over there to kick ideals around with. Hopefully will lead to even a better experiences for our type of use.

Figure I would also ask, does anyone has a suggestion on high quality temperature measurement device (less than $500) to consider buying? Want something to measure the materials temperature well being vaped.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Sorry if this is easy to find I just figured I'd ask real quick here, @HerbieVonVapster do your profiles work with the hcigar VT75 nano already? I am only used to how it works with the bronze RX250 and was hoping it would be similar... Can't thank you enough for all you do here!
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Sorry if this is easy to find I just figured I'd ask real quick here, @HerbieVonVapster do your profiles work with the hcigar VT75 nano already? I am only used to how it works with the bronze RX250 and was hoping it would be similar... Can't thank you enough for all you do here!

My suggest is to download the DNA250 and open it without it connected to the Hcigar nano. Save the theme (if you like it). The profiles will work with it.

Since the case thermal and mod resistance will be different and it's a one battery mod. I would not use the DNA250 file. I would search out the nano correct mod resistance and also run case analyzer on it. Then add the theme and the FCSHARE profile. Increase maxs puff too 20 seconds. I also increase the OHM lock range to 33% precent.

This should give you the best performance if you run into any problem I can toss one together for the DNA75 but doing the above will work better and suggest that route. I don't know the case thermal and doing the steps above will work better than me using the stock evolv case thermal. If you can't find the mod resistance of the nano use evlov stock of 0.004.


Did a quick search for this info... but suggest double checking the info in post below. Figure thou I'll post link as a place to start.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/hcigar-vt75-nano.756943/page-3
 
HerbieVonVapster,
  • Like
Reactions: Alex3oe

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
My suggest is to download the DNA250 and open it without it connected to the Hcigar nano. Save the theme (if you like it). The profiles will work with it.

Since the case thermal and mod resistance will be different and it's a one battery mod. I would not use the DNA250 file. I would search out the nano correct mod resistance and also run case analyzer on it. Then add the theme and the FCSHARE profile. Increase maxs puff too 20 seconds. I also increase the OHM lock range to 33% precent.

This should give you the best performance if you run into any problem I can toss one together for the DNA75 but doing the above will work better and suggest that route. I don't know the case thermal and doing the steps above will work better than me using the stock evolv case thermal. If you can't find the mod resistance of the nano use evlov stock of 0.004.


Did a quick search for this info... but suggest double checking the info in post below. Figure thou I'll post link as a place to start.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/hcigar-vt75-nano.756943/page-3

Ah thank you! Unfortunately most of that is already kinda over my head haha

Lost me at the first sentence. All I did for my 250 was load your profiles in escribe, Then connect and upload to the RX? Then select the profile on the mod and that was it... I don't know anything about the themes but I like what it has? The black FC animation and stuff?

Also I did not know a mod had resistance itself? I used the cold resistance for my RX and locked it was all. I do have my CuboidMini running Tubo and my G3D running Sur to see cold resistance there, but I do not know how you can set it manually on the DNA... I know how to use the mod pretty well now, but not the software on the computer at all lol
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Lost me at the first sentence. All I did for my 250 was load your profiles in escribe, Then connect and upload to the RX? Then select the profile on the mod and that was it... I don't know anything about the themes but I like what it has? The black FC animation and stuff?

Yes the theme is the startup FC animation etc. The ideal of FCSHARE is to save the average new user the hassle of figuring out the software.

Also I did not know a mod had resistance itself? I used the cold resistance for my RX and locked it was all. I do have my CuboidMini running Tubo and my G3D running Sur to see cold resistance there, but I do not know how you can set it manually on the DNA... I know how to use the mod pretty well now, but not the software on the computer at all lol

Okay... Mod resistance...

First, let's look at the power controlled case only. Then we'll extend that to temperature protection.

From the output of the board, there are several resistances in series that make up the load. First you have the wires running to the connector. Then you have the connector body itself. Then you have the interface between the connector and the atomizer. Then you have the atomizer body, then the connection between the atomizer and the coil. Then and only then do you actually get to the coil.

All these elements have some resistance, and resistances in series add up. So, you might have

Output wires: .002 ohm
Connector body: .001 ohm
Connector contact resistance: .002 ohm
Atomizer body: .003 ohm
Atomizer contact resistance: .002 ohm
Coil: .10 ohm

So the total resistance would be .108

However, we really only care about the heating power coming out of the coil, not the power being wasted in the wires or the connector.

So to get 100 watts out of the coil, we need I^2*.10 ohm = 100 watts. So we need 31.6 amps of current to get a true 100 watts out of the coil.

However, to get that 100 watts at the coil, we need to have the board put out more power, to account for the losses through all the stuff that isn't coils. We know we need 31.6 amps, so the total power we have to put out in this case is 31.6^2*.108, or 108 watts.

So in this case, power controlled only, we need to put out an extra 8 watts to get our 100 out. If your mod resistance is correct, the DNA will handle this automatically. And yes, this means that in certain circumstances the board will be putting out significantly more than 200 watts.

That's all good from a power standpoint (except that we have to make a board capable of more like 250 watts total output) but in temperature mode, it is a bit more nuanced.

With temperature protection, we're looking for a rise in resistance relative to the known cold resistance. With mod resistance, we assume that the mod resistance isn't heated meaningfully.

With nickel 200, a doubling of resistance corresponds to about 412 degrees. So if we have a mod resistance of .008 and a cold coil resistance of .10, for a total resistance of .108, the following happens:

If we have a 0.0 mod resistance setting, it will assume the entire cold resistance is the coil. So for a temperature setting of 412 degrees, it will have a limit resistance of .216 ohms.

However, we know in this case that .008 of that isn't the coil. We'll further assume that everything is well constructed and massive enough to not heat up much in operation. That means that our limit resistance's .216 ohms is really .208 ohms at the coil and still .008 ohms in the non-coil stuff. So for a setting of 412F, you are really getting a coil temperature of 430F.

With a proper mod resistance setting, it will only be looking for a rise in resistance of the actual coil. So a setting of 412 will actually be 412.

So, the temperature you are getting is closer to the temperature you have set with the mod resistance on. Unfortunately, it is more accurate in a "weaker, cooler vape" direction. To get the same experience as one would have had with a 412 degree setting without mod resistance, you would have to turn the temperature limit up to what you were actually getting before, in this specific case 430 degrees.

Hope that makes sense.

Also I did not know a mod had resistance itself? I used the cold resistance for my RX and locked it was all. I do have my CuboidMini running Tubo and my G3D running Sur to see cold resistance there, but I do not know how you can set it manually on the DNA... I know how to use the mod pretty well now, but not the software on the computer at all lol

I set cold ohms in escribe for the DNA250 here are only setting I think can be done from the device.


Modes

Locked mode: Pressing the fire button five times with less than .7 seconds between presses will cause the device to enter Locked mode. In Locked mode, the device will not fire and the output power will not adjust accidentally. While in Locked mode, the screen will be off, except that pressing a button will show“Locked, Click 5X”. To exit Locked mode, press the fire button 5 times.

Stealth mode: While locked, holding the fire and down buttons simultaneously for five seconds will switch to stealth mode. In this mode the display is off. It will still show error and lock messages. To switch back to normal display mode, hold down the fire and down buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds. This setting is stored to internal flash memory, and remains if power is removed.

Power Locked mode: Holding down both the up and down buttons for two seconds will place the device in Power Locked mode. In this mode, the mod will operate normally, but you will not be able to change the power setting. This mode prevents accidental power level changes due to the buttons being pressed while in a pocket. To exit Power Locked mode, hold the up and down buttons for two seconds.

Resistance lock: The DNA 250 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance. To do so, while locked hold both the Fire and Up buttons for two seconds to enter Resistance Lock mode. In this mode, the DNA 250 will use the present atomizer cold resistance without refinement until the atomizer is disconnected or the resistance lock is disabled. A lock symbol will replace the ohm symbol on the display. To disable resistance lock, repeat the procedure to lock it.

Max Temperature Adjust: From Locked Mode, holding down both the up and down buttons for two seconds will place the device in Max Temperature Adjust mode. Once this mode is entered, the max temperature will be displayed. The up and down buttons are used to adjust the max temperature. To save the new temperature setting and exit, press the Fire button.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Yes the theme is the startup FC animation etc. The ideal of FCSHARE is to save the average new user the hassle of figuring out the software.



Okay... Mod resistance...

First, let's look at the power controlled case only. Then we'll extend that to temperature protection.

From the output of the board, there are several resistances in series that make up the load. First you have the wires running to the connector. Then you have the connector body itself. Then you have the interface between the connector and the atomizer. Then you have the atomizer body, then the connection between the atomizer and the coil. Then and only then do you actually get to the coil.

All these elements have some resistance, and resistances in series add up. So, you might have

Output wires: .002 ohm
Connector body: .001 ohm
Connector contact resistance: .002 ohm
Atomizer body: .003 ohm
Atomizer contact resistance: .002 ohm
Coil: .10 ohm

So the total resistance would be .108

However, we really only care about the heating power coming out of the coil, not the power being wasted in the wires or the connector.

So to get 100 watts out of the coil, we need I^2*.10 ohm = 100 watts. So we need 31.6 amps of current to get a true 100 watts out of the coil.

However, to get that 100 watts at the coil, we need to have the board put out more power, to account for the losses through all the stuff that isn't coils. We know we need 31.6 amps, so the total power we have to put out in this case is 31.6^2*.108, or 108 watts.

So in this case, power controlled only, we need to put out an extra 8 watts to get our 100 out. If your mod resistance is correct, the DNA will handle this automatically. And yes, this means that in certain circumstances the board will be putting out significantly more than 200 watts.

That's all good from a power standpoint (except that we have to make a board capable of more like 250 watts total output) but in temperature mode, it is a bit more nuanced.

With temperature protection, we're looking for a rise in resistance relative to the known cold resistance. With mod resistance, we assume that the mod resistance isn't heated meaningfully.

With nickel 200, a doubling of resistance corresponds to about 412 degrees. So if we have a mod resistance of .008 and a cold coil resistance of .10, for a total resistance of .108, the following happens:

If we have a 0.0 mod resistance setting, it will assume the entire cold resistance is the coil. So for a temperature setting of 412 degrees, it will have a limit resistance of .216 ohms.

However, we know in this case that .008 of that isn't the coil. We'll further assume that everything is well constructed and massive enough to not heat up much in operation. That means that our limit resistance's .216 ohms is really .208 ohms at the coil and still .008 ohms in the non-coil stuff. So for a setting of 412F, you are really getting a coil temperature of 430F.

With a proper mod resistance setting, it will only be looking for a rise in resistance of the actual coil. So a setting of 412 will actually be 412.

So, the temperature you are getting is closer to the temperature you have set with the mod resistance on. Unfortunately, it is more accurate in a "weaker, cooler vape" direction. To get the same experience as one would have had with a 412 degree setting without mod resistance, you would have to turn the temperature limit up to what you were actually getting before, in this specific case 430 degrees.

Hope that makes sense.



I set cold ohms in escribe for the DNA250 here are only setting I think can be done from the device.


Modes

Locked mode: Pressing the fire button five times with less than .7 seconds between presses will cause the device to enter Locked mode. In Locked mode, the device will not fire and the output power will not adjust accidentally. While in Locked mode, the screen will be off, except that pressing a button will show“Locked, Click 5X”. To exit Locked mode, press the fire button 5 times.

Stealth mode: While locked, holding the fire and down buttons simultaneously for five seconds will switch to stealth mode. In this mode the display is off. It will still show error and lock messages. To switch back to normal display mode, hold down the fire and down buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds. This setting is stored to internal flash memory, and remains if power is removed.

Power Locked mode: Holding down both the up and down buttons for two seconds will place the device in Power Locked mode. In this mode, the mod will operate normally, but you will not be able to change the power setting. This mode prevents accidental power level changes due to the buttons being pressed while in a pocket. To exit Power Locked mode, hold the up and down buttons for two seconds.

Resistance lock: The DNA 250 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance. To do so, while locked hold both the Fire and Up buttons for two seconds to enter Resistance Lock mode. In this mode, the DNA 250 will use the present atomizer cold resistance without refinement until the atomizer is disconnected or the resistance lock is disabled. A lock symbol will replace the ohm symbol on the display. To disable resistance lock, repeat the procedure to lock it.

Max Temperature Adjust: From Locked Mode, holding down both the up and down buttons for two seconds will place the device in Max Temperature Adjust mode. Once this mode is entered, the max temperature will be displayed. The up and down buttons are used to adjust the max temperature. To save the new temperature setting and exit, press the Fire button.

Thanks man! It does work as being a simple option, because I did not really understand like any of the rest of that lol I do really appreciate you taking the time to write it all out with those examples, but I do not remember physics well enough to follow, particularly do not know these devices well enough either... did a little research and now I just really have no idea if its worth taking a risk on the nano, so I guess that means I will not get it :lol:
 
Shit Snacks,

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
There is one board sensor measuring the innards of the entire enclosure. The board, the batteries within, the enclosure. How fast it all heats and cools. When you run the 'Thermals', the first thing asked is Room temp. It knows the board temp, and now the room temp, so now you can calculate the room temp whenever you want from the board temp.
The reason it takes so long is because people will plug and unplug USB cables, have batteries at different voltage levels, and charging rates. Batteries also heat up as they're being charged. There are different charging techniques employed as the battery gets near to full. All those are tested during Thermals, values written into escribe .............. then taking what it needs into account, you end up with a calculated/derived room temp.

During a session, in DM you'll see the board temp rise, room temp should not. As soon as you plug in a cable, you'll see the room temp jump, and it'll slowly decrease (based on the written values) back down to the actual room temp.

Learned something new today splinter thread so also sharing it here also. After @usern@me response explains how it works I suggest user who haven't run case analyzer on the DNA mods to take the time to run it. I also suggest letting mod sit overnight for it to completely cooled down. The second post in below link explains how to run the case analyzer.

https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/70112-case-analyzerthermal-settings/?tab=comments#comment-927279
 
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