TC Box Mods Firmware Discussions and Customizing

Summer

Long Island, NY
@bossman, have any thoughts? Did a search for your name & "resistance" everywhere, but too many posts returned. :D
 
Last edited:
Summer,
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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
@bossman, have any thoughts? Did a search for your name & "resistance" everywhere, but too many posts returned. :D
That quick start guide @Easywider linked is likely a better config resource for tubo_myevic than whatever I can offer. I spent the first year telling everyone to try DNAc mods and the next year or two encouraging folks to try either of the Red Panda mods, which don't require any resistance adjustments or locking. All my Zs are still on Red Panda mods and my Vs are not in the rotation.
PXL_20210214_213124381~2.jpg
 

kadjo

Well-Known Member
Where is the FC share with the firmware files. I feel like an idiot but I've read back through this thread and searched the whole site and I can't seem to find them anywhere. Trying to set up a paranormal dna250c to run some splinters and a divine tribe v4 and v5 atomizer.

Any help is appreciated.

(also my first foray into adjusting the mod so Any tips are also appreciated.)
 
kadjo,

DJ Colonel Corn

The Vapor Ninja
Trying to set up a paranormal dna250c to run some splinters and a divine tribe v4 and v5 atomizer

Hello.
I'm not sure what specs the Splinter wants, but you can make your DNA250C do what it needs.
Find out what TCR value it wants, or whatever else is recommended for it (I'm not familiar with the Splinter), and follow the steps for either v4 or v5:

As far as the v4 and v5 go:

For the v4. I have always used Nickel mode (this is found in your mod without firmware), with the values 36 watts and 380°F.
You can tailor this to your liking with changing the temperature values, but I do not recommend you exceed 36 watts.
Note that the temperature readout on your mod for the v4 is not exactly accurate as far as how hot the cup is.
For example, different materials as well as different cups perform better with slightly different settings (temperature).

For the v5, most of us prefer what's known as "TCR 180" which can be set with Escribe softrware.
I explain how to set your DNA250C (and DNA75C) to TCR 180 here: https://thevapor.ninja/tcr/ .
Most of us set this at 38 watts, 480°F. You can lower it a bunch, but I don't think exceeding 500°F would be that great.

You also might be interested in the custom themes for your DNA250C, you can find here: https://forum.evolvapor.com/files .

For everyone curious about the upcoming v5, I have some info here .

Hope this helps !
 

kadjo

Well-Known Member
Hello.
I'm not sure what specs the Splinter wants, but you can make your DNA250C do what it needs.
Find out what TCR value it wants, or whatever else is recommended for it (I'm not familiar with the Splinter), and follow the steps for either v4 or v5:

As far as the v4 and v5 go:

For the v4. I have always used Nickel mode (this is found in your mod without firmware), with the values 36 watts and 380°F.
You can tailor this to your liking with changing the temperature values, but I do not recommend you exceed 36 watts.
Note that the temperature readout on your mod for the v4 is not exactly accurate as far as how hot the cup is.
For example, different materials as well as different cups perform better with slightly different settings (temperature).

For the v5, most of us prefer what's known as "TCR 180" which can be set with Escribe softrware.
I explain how to set your DNA250C (and DNA75C) to TCR 180 here: https://thevapor.ninja/tcr/ .
Most of us set this at 38 watts, 480°F. You can lower it a bunch, but I don't think exceeding 500°F would be that great.

You also might be interested in the custom themes for your DNA250C, you can find here: https://forum.evolvapor.com/files .

For everyone curious about the upcoming v5, I have some info here .

Hope this helps !
Thank you, sir. You're both a gentleman and a box mod Scholar. Bookmarked and screenshotted.

For v5 would you keep in that mode to do self clean, or switch to wattage and then count 15 seconds or is the better cleaning options.

I'm afraid ill burn out the dish if I clean too much.

Have SiC on v4.
 
kadjo,

DJ Colonel Corn

The Vapor Ninja
would you keep in that mode to do self clean, or switch to wattage and then count 15 seconds or is the better cleaning options.

I'd use wattage for cleaning but really, q-tipping after each session, and not 'chazzing' (burning kinda) your material is the best way to go.
The v5 tends to stain on the edges, so try not to wipe your material off on the edge, rather, drop it in the middle.
However, yes, I've seen that folks are cleaning with wattage, letting it cool completely after firing for 15-20 seconds on a maximum of 38 watts.
I hear you about not wanting to crack the cup.
Let it cool all the way down between pulses. After about 5 times it shoudl be all clean. Some hold it upside-down.

Oh and yeah I found 36 watts on Nickel with 380 F to be the sweet spot for that v4 SiC .
All the best !
 
DJ Colonel Corn,
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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Where is the FC share with the firmware files. I feel like an idiot but I've read back through this thread and searched the whole site and I can't seem to find them anywhere. Trying to set up a paranormal dna250c to run some splinters and a divine tribe v4 and v5 atomizer.

Any help is appreciated.

(also my first foray into adjusting the mod so Any tips are also appreciated.)
If you pm me your email address I can send you the DNAc ecigprofiles for the Splinter and Splinter Z.
 
Just picked up a Wismec RX Gen3 for my Stempod SI and trying to tinker with TCR settings.
Can anyone point me in the right direction or help me out here?
 
bemusedchunk,

XpeeN

Well-Known Member
Hi guys, first time TC user here (I own a RX gen3 dual with arctic fox installed). I researched a bit, but I couldn't figure out what have I done wrong. I bought those 316L staggered fused clapton coils, I'm using 2 coils, each has 4 wraps with 1 mm of space between each wrap, and I got a resistance of 0.108 when the coils are at room temperature.
Now, I can't figure out how to use TC correctly. I tried to use Steam-engine's wire wizard, but it shows a different resistance than what I've got IRL. When I tried to use the new coils with the shown values (either TCR value or imported TFR), it fires till it reach to the temp I set up and then says "Protection" and lowers the wattage and temp if I continue firing and shows "Protection" every other moment.
Did I do something wrong? Why isn't that working? :X
Thanks.
 
XpeeN,

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Protection means it has reached temperature and it throttles the power applied to the coil(s). That's the expected behaviour, albeit a not very intuitive message...

0.108 is really on the low side, it might create a lot of stress for your DC/DC converter. I would aim at double that figure like the Imp/Impcognito.
 
KeroZen,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
I can't figure out how to use TC correctly.... it fires till it reach to the temp I set up and then says "Protection" and lowers the wattage and temp if I continue firing and shows "Protection" every other moment.
Did I do something wrong? Why isn't that working? :X
Thanks.

That's how temperature control works. It uses whatever wattage you've set to heat up the coils to the temp you specifiy, then it modulates power on and off to maintain that temperature without going too high or letting it fall too low. While it's momentarily turned the power off to keep the coil from getting too hot it says "Protection".

Sounds to me like it's working properly.

:)
 
Haywood,

XpeeN

Well-Known Member
That's how temperature control works. It uses whatever wattage you've set to heat up the coils to the temp you specifiy, then it modulates power on and off to maintain that temperature without going too high or letting it fall too low. While it's momentarily turned the power off to keep the coil from getting too hot it says "Protection".

Sounds to me like it's working properly.

:)
Protection means it has reached temperature and it throttles the power applied to the coil(s). That's the expected behaviour, albeit a not very intuitive message...
Oh that nice, Tnx.

0.108 is really on the low side, it might create a lot of stress for your DC/DC converter. I would aim at double that figure like the Imp/Impcognito.
Will do, tbh I set it up just to test how TC works.

Is there a reason why it turned up 0.108 instead of ~0.166 like it says at steam engine? It's quite significant difference...
 
XpeeN,

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Can you vouch for your exact alloy composition? Depending on the exact component ratios, the resistance figure will vary. The size of your legs and how much you let them protrude on the other side also have to be accounted for. Partial shorts between coils will also lower the total. Then there's inaccuracy in your mod ohmmeter, inaccuracy in the wire(s) gauge(s), inaccuracy in how tight your composite wires are wound... plus it is overall harder to compute when using anything else than solid single core wire.

For TC mode I highly recommend to enable PI(D) regulation in the advanced settings. Much more predictable and stable than the default bang bang controller.
 

XpeeN

Well-Known Member
In case anyone is still one the fence between an Arctic Fox or a DNA mod: Evolv just added Session mode to DNA 75C, 100C and 250C. You press the fire button to start autofire and press it again to stop.
What's the maximum timeout we can set? I hope not 10 secs like always
 
XpeeN,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
What's the maximum timeout we can set? I hope not 10 secs like always

I didn’t note a MAX amount of seconds for the timeout, as I left it at 120 seconds, which I assumed was the default when I first saw the new feature in Escribe. I probably should lower it, as I would never be firing anything for a constant 2 minutes. It’s possible perhaps that it could go higher, but I’m done with that now, updated a few of my DNA75C mods.
 
RustyOldNail,

XpeeN

Well-Known Member
I didn’t note a MAX amount of seconds for the timeout, as I left it at 120 seconds, which I assumed was the default when I first saw the new feature in Escribe. I probably should lower it, as I would never be firing anything for a constant 2 minutes. It’s possible perhaps that it could go higher, but I’m done with that now, updated a few of my DNA75C mods.
120 secs is more than enough haha. My AF mod Max time set on 30 secs. Nice, I'd definitely upgrade to a DNA mod now
 
XpeeN,

XpeeN

Well-Known Member
120 secs is more than enough haha. My AF mod Max time set on 30 secs. Nice, I'd definitely upgrade to a DNA mod now
Actually on second thought It'll still lack the PI feature, which I always use and i find pretty important...
 
XpeeN,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Below is the theme I installed on both my Odin Mini’s DNA75C. Auto-fire can be turned on/off and time adjusted for every individual preset. I choose the “Portrait” version, there are many types to pick from, and the author even has a downloadable PDF manual, as there are a lot of options in the various menus. You can even download other files to customize the theme. Very comprehensive, I recommend.

 

Fesob_31

Well-Known Member
Actually on second thought It'll still lack the PI feature, which I always use and i find pretty important...

There are no Range-P-I adjustments in escribe for DNA mods but PID is there and “auto-tuning”, as long as there are Watts available.
 
Fesob_31,
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