Sticky Brick Labs Vaporizer

[DgN'R]

I think you can see, however, that the glass joint is pretty close to the heater section, so a hydrotube with a wider base may not fit. I think that distance is increased a bit with the Hydrabrick. Just something to mind when you're drawing up your plans.

I understand what you mean, Would it be possible to obtain the distance from the following two lines? Or the diameter of a hydratube? Or better still the same distances but on a Hydrobrick/Maxx?

What size would you think would be ideal? I do not have a hydratube but if it can suit several different shapes and brands it would be great indeed to have a larger area

I think this is viable but I think it would be wise to offer two different adapters instead of one (the first which would allow a transformation into Flip/Twist/Injector and the second for hydratube). Because I am afraid that it is too long to secure the Flip function, and in Twist transformation the brick will not be center in the axis (in the case of a 4 in 1) compared to the top brick, This one would exceed on each side, Even if it would work perfectly, It will not be aligned so not beautiful to look at.

In case of transformation into flip, the upper part would be closed by a simple cork cap, and in the opposite case the hole on the side would be blocked

The idea of the cork cap was friendly but it would be better to use the magnet above and make a wooden magnetic cap (it would be enough to place it on top in case of transformation in Flip, and remove it in the case of a transformation in Twist/Injector)

I will start modeling, I will just need the missing distances to get an idea. Thanks!

 

[coolbreeze]

I understand what you mean, Would it be possible to obtain the distance from the following two lines? Or the diameter of a hydratube? Or better still the same distances but on a Hydrobrick/Maxx?

Ok, for the Hydrobrick:
9mm and 37mm

Hydroblock:
7mm and 28mm

These are close, but approx.

EDIT: I fucked this up and measured from the hole to the edge in both directions, rather than from the back edge to the front edge as you requested.

Those measurements from the back of the block to the 'front':
Hydrobrick:
~66mm

Hydroblock:
~55mm.

The hydratube may not be as problematic as I thought; I seem to recall running into it as an issue, but I tried one and it looks like it would work; I must have previously tried a knockoff with a wider base:

What size would you think would be ideal? I do not have a hydratube but if it can suit several different shapes and brands it would be great indeed to have a larger area

I think I would base it on the widest-base one you can find on DHGate, since any others are rare nowadays.

I think this is viable but I think it would be wise to offer two different adapters instead of one (the first which would allow a transformation into Flip/Twist/Injector and the second for hydratube). Because I am afraid that it is too long to secure the Flip function, and in Twist transformation the brick will not be center in the axis (in the case of a 4 in 1) compared to the top brick, This one would exceed on each side, Even if it would work perfectly, It will not be aligned so not beautiful to look at.

hmmm. I'm sure you're right. That wasn't built for Flip use and one that is will have to deal with all that off-center weight so I think you're right about the length.

The idea of the cork cap was friendly but it would be better to use the magnet above and make a wooden magnetic cap (it would be enough to place it on top in case of transformation in Flip, and remove it in the case of a transformation in Twist/Injector)

I'm not sure I understand what you mean here.

I will start modeling, I will just need the missing distances to get an idea. Thanks!

Hope these help!

 

[DgN'R]

Thank you very much @coolbreeze for all this information, you are great

 

[coolbreeze]

Thank you very much @coolbreeze for all this information, you are great

Just thought of this: When I got the block, one of the things I did with it was whipped with a short silicone tube from the metal tube to one mounted in the OG's heater/bowl blocks to move the hydratube far enough away and also to whip the hydratube to other things. If you made your hydratube base more stable than the OG block, you could use it that way more securely, as a more stable base for hydratubes or the Maxx Mouthpiece, etc. connected to other things.

If you included a female joint as well as the male, you could use the base in reverse, to set bowls or vapes into to whip to bongs or to a mouthpiece, etc. It would 'dirty' it in a way the other usage wouldn't, but it would be handy to have anyhow!

Maybe you could make a two-brick Maxx-esque package: a hydratube block and a female block that could join by silicone as desired for distance, etc, or magnets to make a solid brick. A hydraplatform, so to speak.

 

[Smokey McVape]

So after buying my first brick last week (Hydrobrick Maxx) and absolutely loving it, I managed to find a Runt in Black Limba wood at a good price and I can't wait to get home and try it.
Are there any variables between devices I should know about?
Thanks in advance

 

[coolbreeze]

So after buying my first brick last week (Hydrobrick Maxx) and absolutely loving it, I managed to find a Runt in Black Limba wood at a good price and I can't wait to get home and try it.
Are there any variables between devices I should know about?
Thanks in advance

Just expect everything to happen faster, with no lag, and more directly. I have a Maxx but no Runt, but I do have a Dreamwood Punch which is a similar small/med handheld. That one hits like a dream, but it's very direct. You will feel more precise control with it. My slightly smaller OWW Micro is the same. I'm not sure I'd call them better or easier, but if you've mastered the Maxx (a great big Cadillac), the runt should feel like a sports car to you.

 

[Smokey McVape]

I'm loving my bricks overall but... sometimes I'm only getting very hot, wood flavoured air instead of vapor. This tends to happen more when I use a smaller flame. Is the restrictor sucking up most of the heat? Do I need to pull harder when using a smaller flame? Would blocking the tiny air port in the heating chamber help?
Thanks again

 

[coolbreeze]

I'm loving my bricks overall but... sometimes I'm only getting very hot, wood flavoured air instead of vapor. This tends to happen more when I use a smaller flame. Is the restrictor sucking up most of the heat? Do I need to pull harder when using a smaller flame? Would blocking the tiny air port in the heating chamber help?
Thanks again

In general, if it seems to be sucking heat in but nothing's otherwise happening, the flame is in some sort of dead zone. Usually if you aim the flame steeper or shallower, or you sort of swirl it around the clock face, you will once again find the sweet spot. Not sure how or why it does that, but it's probably related to the turbulence created at the mouth. With the Hydrobrick specifically, it ships with a restrictor and a straight intake. Without the restrictor, it can be very fast and liable to hot-spotting (though it's possible to train yourself without too much trauma). With the restrictor, you're much less likely to overheat, but you can more easily find yourself in the dead zone.

Another common problem--and this sounds like what you've been experiencing--might be that between the deadzone, the lower heat, and the disk, you can sometimes have an issue building up the initial heat in the chamber, so it never really gets hot enough to begin the extraction (this is usually in no way obvious; it seems to be working, etc, but just warm air comes thru). Again, moving the flame around and sometimes a larger flame may help, but what will most likely help is finding the sweetspot and re-building the heat again. Listen for the whistle, watch for vapor.

Other things to try are flipping the disc to see if that helps, and finally get one of the bent intakes (longer one for the flip may be easier but I am using the shorter one for the runt, either's worth a try), take out the restrictor, switch the intakes and give that a try. I find it's much faster/easier than with the disc in, but it does cool and turbulate the heat enough to make it much more manageable than the straight intake by itself.

Finally, if you try the bent intake and you feel like you can manage it decently, try a 3-flame torch from a little greater distance: when you have the flames in the zone, extraction is like you've hit the on switch and it just pours cool, thick, flavorful vapor with absolutely no charring/unevenness. It is a different technique because of the distance, but it's pretty amazing when you get it working!

Best of luck, these are really still exciting vapes for me and it's great to see people enjoying them!

 

[Smokey McVape]

In general, if it seems to be sucking heat in but nothing's otherwise happening, the flame is in some sort of dead zone. Usually if you aim the flame steeper or shallower, or you sort of swirl it around the clock face, you will once again find the sweet spot. Not sure how or why it does that, but it's probably related to the turbulence created at the mouth. With the Hydrobrick specifically, it ships with a restrictor and a straight intake. Without the restrictor, it can be very fast and liable to hot-spotting (though it's possible to train yourself without too much trauma). With the restrictor, you're much less likely to overheat, but you can more easily find yourself in the dead zone.

Another common problem--and this sounds like what you've been experiencing--might be that between the deadzone, the lower heat, and the disk, you can sometimes have an issue building up the initial heat in the chamber, so it never really gets hot enough to begin the extraction (this is usually in no way obvious; it seems to be working, etc, but just warm air comes thru). Again, moving the flame around and sometimes a larger flame may help, but what will most likely help is finding the sweetspot and re-building the heat again. Listen for the whistle, watch for vapor.

Other things to try are flipping the disc to see if that helps, and finally get one of the bent intakes (longer one for the flip may be easier but I am using the shorter one for the runt, either's worth a try), take out the restrictor, switch the intakes and give that a try. I find it's muchfaster/easier than with the disc in, but it does cool and turbulate the heat enough to make it much more manageable than the straight intake by itself.

Finally, if you try the bent intake and you feel like you can manage it decently, try a 3-flame torch from a little greater distance: when you have the flames in the zone, extraction is like you've hit the on switch and it just pours cool, thick, flavorful vapor with absolutely no charring/unevenness. It is a different technique because of the distance, but it's pretty amazing when you get it working!

Best of luck, these are really still exciting vapes for me and it's great to see people enjoying them!

Thanks Coolbreeze.
I bought a large bent intake with my Hydrobrick and much prefer it to the smaller one provided with the Runt that doesn't work at all for me - I literally spent an hour with it and didn't achieve a single hit, regardless of angle or temp!
I have tried the restrictor both ways and it works better for me with the tube part facing up.
I think that I'll try tonight with the restrictor removed. I have re-watched all of Vapelife X's brick videos and if I start with the smallest flame possible and work up from there I think I will see a difference.
Wish me luck!

 

[coolbreeze]

I have re-watched all of Vapelife X's brick videos and

That's the best advice I could have given! ; ) Good luck, I know you'll have better results all the time!

 

[Smokey McVape]

A change of setup on my Runt and bingo - clouds every time!
I took out the restrictor disc and replaced the large bent intake with the smaller version supplied with my Runt and everything just works perfectly. On Tuesday evening I couldn't get a hit at all using the small bent intake/restrictor setup regardless of technique or angle but it's completely different without the restrictor - you get a telltale swoosh sound that is different to the sound of the straight intake when you're in the right place along with cool, tasty clouds.
I now officially have Sticky Brick VAS and can't wait to try the Jr.

 

[Smokey McVape]

https://imgur.com/a/nCjZ0BG

 

[Flow]

That's the best advice I could have given! ; ) Good luck, I know you'll have better results all the time!

Well… i read this tread and decided althought to go "unregulated" or "unprotected" by taking out the "restrictor disk" from my intake...
It's been a year or so and i never tried it without… lol…

I got a "1hit1derfull" i met on another topic and decided to NOT buy an Anvil, thanks to my OG brick.
I had whispy vapor with restrictor disk and straight intake.
Now i have dense and more tasty/complex vapor, thick clouds on any draw.
I now have to be carefull to not become too greedy, in order not to combust, as the OG got his steroïds back !

Happy brick vaping all !

 

[DgN'R]

Does anyone know the difference between these two glass stem?

14.4mm Male stem for Twist/Maxx/Flip Brick – Sticky Brick Labs – Designed and manufactured in the USA

14.4mm male stem for the Twist, Maxx, Flip, and our new injector chamber. Our glass is made in-house using the highest quality scientific German joints.

stickybricklabs.com

Flip Brick/Injector 14.4mm Male Stem – Sticky Brick Labs – Designed and manufactured in the USA

14.4mm male stem for the Flip

stickybricklabs.com

Do they have a different height or diameter?

Here is the Flip mod for OG:

It can be fitted up or down like an original flip

I abandoned the all-in-one model, I prefer several separate mod, the next to be studying and the hydrobrick mod.

If you have suggestions, do not hesitate

 

[coolbreeze]

Does anyone know the difference between these two glass stem?

14.4mm Male stem for Twist/Maxx/Flip Brick – Sticky Brick Labs – Designed and manufactured in the USA

14.4mm male stem for the Twist, Maxx, Flip, and our new injector chamber. Our glass is made in-house using the highest quality scientific German joints.

stickybricklabs.com

Flip Brick/Injector 14.4mm Male Stem – Sticky Brick Labs – Designed and manufactured in the USA

14.4mm male stem for the Flip

stickybricklabs.com

Do they have a different height or diameter?

I'm not sure why there's two: both fit the Flip apparently. Maybe they consolidated the joints and intakes and the generic one is a slightly different length than the OG Flip joint? If they both fit, though, they should be the same diameter and not too different in length.

Here is the Flip mod for OG:

It can be fitted up or down like an original flip

I abandoned the all-in-one model, I prefer several separate mod, the next to be studying and the hydrobrick mod.

If you have suggestions, do not hesitate

This is getting interesting!

 

[Monk Debate]

Are Sticky Bricks sold in any physical shops, or is the only way to get one to order it online?

 

[666Honeybadger]

Are Sticky Bricks sold in any physical shops, or is the only way to get one to order it online?

I'm quite sure there are physical shops that sell them, probably could find you one, but me thinks you should provide some geographic info first?
I could suggest a shop in France but why? You might live in Brazil?

 

[Monk Debate]

I'm quite sure there are physical shops that sell them, probably could find you one, but me thinks you should provide some geographic info first?
I could suggest a shop in France but why? You might live in Brazil?

Yes, I live in Portland (the Oregon one). I have been calling a few vaporizer and head shops around here without success, so I wasn’t sure if SBL even sold products in shops.

 

[666Honeybadger]

Yes, I live in Portland (the Oregon one). I have been calling a few vaporizer and head shops around here without success, so I wasn’t sure if SBL even sold products in shops.

I see...
I'm from europe and could likely find you some EU shops but for american shops i won't be very usefull i reckon...
Maybe someone else will jump in...

 

[Grass Yes]

Yes, I live in Portland (the Oregon one). I have been calling a few vaporizer and head shops around here without success, so I wasn’t sure if SBL even sold products in shops.

I would email SBL and just ask if they have any resellers in Portland. I have heard of the occasional Runt or OG found in a cannabis shop, but not in Oregon IIRC.

 

[Monk Debate]

I would email SBL and just ask if they have any resellers in Portland. I have heard of the occasional Runt or OG found in a cannabis shop, but not in Oregon IIRC.

Thanks, I went ahead and emailed them.

 

[Monk Debate]

Didn’t find a local reseller, but I did find a deal online for a paudauk Runt, so I’ll be baking on a Sticky Brick very soon!

 

[Monk Debate]

Just to check, can I buy a standalone straight intake and add that to a Runt? Or is it sized differently than the bent intake that comes with the Runt?

 

[coolbreeze]

Just to check, can I buy a standalone straight intake and add that to a Runt? Or is it sized differently than the bent intake that comes with the Runt?

I believe they're all the same diameter. Check the bent intake page: iirc, that one fits everything; if it does, they all do.

 

[Monk Debate]

I believe they're all the same diameter. Check the bent intake page: iirc, that one fits everything; if it does, they all do.

Should have checked the website first, it explicitly states which models the straight intake works on:

“Replacement Simax borosilicate glass flame intake for OG Brick, HydroBrick, and Maxx (also works with the Flip, Runt, and Junior w/o cap).”

I ordered one from VGoodiez who is having a spring sale right now, and because of that spring sale somehow a SB Flip landed in my cart too…