Sticky Brick Labs Vaporizer

RedZep

Well-Known Member
It'll come. After awhile it becomes second-nature enough that you sorta 'forget' how or why it can be a challenge initially to some degree.

Edit: color's a guide, not a goal. ; )
I think sometimes I'm not in the sweet spot, even when I think I am. Need to nail that down. When I get it right it's amazing. Thanks for your help.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I think sometimes I'm not in the sweet spot, even when I think I am. Need to nail that down. When I get it right it's amazing. Thanks for your help.
You're more than welcome. If you are using a bent intake, try pointing at a downward angle, aiming at roughly 4 or 5 o'clock just a hair inside the opening of the funnel. I've been using the bent intake on my OG and Hydrobrick and this technique works pretty nicely. I'm not sure why, but it's just a sweet spot I have found to keep consistent heatflow into the chamber.
 

leanpubpackage

Well-Known Member
I'm finding often I get an amazing first hit. Then I look in the bowl and it's almost done, but does not look fully roasted as I would normally get in another vape.

So I hit it again with greater effort, but I don't get much vapour at all, even though it's a dark roasted colour. Just doesn't seem worth it.

Is it something about Sticky Brick where the weed is extracted before it looks fully extracted? Hope this makes sense.
My guess is that it’s a combination of your heat technique not getting the bowl hotter than your last hit and the fact that there’s water from the butane, which adds moisture and prevents blackening. I run into the same issue too but usually am satisfied with the bowl
 

RedZep

Well-Known Member
You're more than welcome. If you are using a bent intake, try pointing at a downward angle, aiming at roughly 4 or 5 o'clock just a hair inside the opening of the funnel. I've been using the bent intake on my OG and Hydrobrick and this technique works pretty nicely. I'm not sure why, but it's just a sweet spot I have found to keep consistent heatflow into the chamber.
Tried using the downward angle and it's much better. Hits faster and harder, but still gives control. Sweet spot seems larger as well.

Everywhere I read before instructed to angle torch up. Not sure why. Thanks for the tip.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Tried using the downward angle and it's much better. Hits faster and harder, but still gives control. Sweet spot seems larger as well.

Everywhere I read before instructed to angle torch up. Not sure why. Thanks for the tip.
I can't remember how I figured or learned that, but I have noticed that one torch vape I have has a very short, open heat path and that's really the only method that will work with it, modified so that the flame is pointed in that direction but just outside the funnel. Went from a real fire hazard to totally enjoyable.
 

NYC_Frank

"A man with no vices is a man with no virtues"
I can't remember how I figured or learned that, but I have noticed that one torch vape I have has a very short, open heat path and that's really the only method that will work with it, modified so that the flame is pointed in that direction but just outside the funnel. Went from a real fire hazard to totally enjoyable.
When I first got my Jr. I couldn't get a decent hit straight in or upwards as I had seen in one video clip. Tried downwards angle just inside the funnel and about an inch away with a good strong flame which has served me well ... 😎🧱💨
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
When I first got my Jr. I couldn't get a decent hit straight in or upwards as I had seen in one video clip. Tried downwards angle just inside the funnel and about an inch away with a good strong flame which has served me well ... 😎🧱💨
It seems to help keep the roast even, too. Rarely ever any hotspotting.
 

RedZep

Well-Known Member
I can't remember how I figured or learned that, but I have noticed that one torch vape I have has a very short, open heat path and that's really the only method that will work with it, modified so that the flame is pointed in that direction but just outside the funnel. Went from a real fire hazard to totally enjoyable.
Do you use the restrictor disk?

I've used it so far, but might try without now that I'm using the flame down technique.
 

666Honeybadger

Unknown member
I'm finding often I get an amazing first hit. Then I look in the bowl and it's almost done, but does not look fully roasted as I would normally get in another vape.

So I hit it again with greater effort, but I don't get much vapour at all, even though it's a dark roasted colour. Just doesn't seem worth it.

Is it something about Sticky Brick where the weed is extracted before it looks fully extracted? Hope this makes sense.

My experience is quite different from yours i have to say. For me my SB (Runt) might be my most powerful extractor. Sometimes it seems like i can keep hitting the same bowl and have huge cloud after cloud...

I've been using it with the same (single flame) torch for a while and considered it already a dragrace-vape. But recently got a triple flame torch and decided to give that a try the other day....
WoW, it blew me away!
Felt like i discovered a hidden turbo injection on my musclecar! The clouds came super fast and were super dense! Amazing! Now i can get blasted to space in like 10 seconds or less! Now that's on demand vapor!

Key points for me are:

- move the torch gently while inhaling (distance and direction)
- regulate the vapor density thru inhalation speed. Slow down for massive clouds, speed up to avoid scorching!
I really think inhalation speed is the way to cater the clouds to perfection. Combined with use of the lighter (direction, distance and pulling back when needed). Feel the vapor!
- open up and stir bowl after every hit! Also essential imo. SB is the only vape that i stir, actually like the act of stirring with it. After stirring i tamp it down slightly (this makes all the difference for me)
- use the same lighter (especially while dialing in your technique), i mostly used a single flame torch with a pretty long/hot flame.
But remember: once you got it down it might be nice to try a hotter lighter somewhere down the line, as i recently found out...:freak::science:

Good luck: i'm sure you'll unleash the beast eventually!
If wanted i can get my ABV super dark with the SB. Also feel like it scores in terms of vapor produced by one bowl since i get so many hits out of it when i want.
 
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NYC_Frank

"A man with no vices is a man with no virtues"

666Honeybadger

Unknown member
Currently endulging on whole nugs in the Runt!
First hits are like a fresh breeze of flavors, slowly stir/break up the nugs as they roast hit by hit!
Stir, tamp and then smell the bowl: the warm wallnut and the toasted weed!! Great!!

Triple jet ftw!
Cloudius ex machina!!!

🌪️🌪️🌪️
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Do you use the restrictor disk?
Recently I have been using the bent intakes with no disk on the Twist, Hydrobrick and OG and it works best for me there, I think. The Flip kida works really nicely with it in, so I left it.

I've used it so far, but might try without now that I'm using the flame down technique.
It doesn't hurt to try. I haven't used the Runt but I would guess you would find it pretty quick to heat without the disc in, which could be a little hairy at first.

That's gotta be it! I learned so much from @WakeAndVape! He was the best reviewer ever.
 
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Skropi

New Member
I find that my SB Runt extracts perfectly. It is a manual vape after all, you can really reach near combustion levels of you want.
There is only thing that somewhat irritates me. The almost constant need for a fresh screen. I find that a fresh screen is good for about 4 bowls, after that there is a noticeable decrease in performance. Is this considered normal for this type of vaporisers?
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I find that my SB Runt extracts perfectly. It is a manual vape after all, you can really reach near combustion levels of you want.
There is only thing that somewhat irritates me. The almost constant need for a fresh screen. I find that a fresh screen is good for about 4 bowls, after that there is a noticeable decrease in performance. Is this considered normal for this type of vaporisers?
To be honest, I have not really had this as an issue but I do see it brought up an awful lot. One thing to try is to stir well and empty it while it's hot. You might even take a dry hit or two after it's empty.
 

Skropi

New Member
To be honest, I have not really had this as an issue but I do see it brought up an awful lot. One thing to try is to stir well and empty it while it's hot. You might even take a dry hit or two after it's empty.
It's not a major issue, changing the screen is not time consuming, I just wasn't sure if this was common.
 

666Honeybadger

Unknown member
I empty and then tap the bowl (upside down) pretty hard on the table after my last hit, there's always some really fine dust coming out, even after emptying the bowl. After that i place the bowl upside down on the mp-part and blow thru it to get it as clean as possible when still hot...This way i can do a whole lot of bowls before it clogs.
Usually manage to remove screen without damaging it, change it over and boil it clean in water or soak it in ISO for a while.
What i find somewhat frustrating is how hard it is to (deep) clean the vapor path. Especially the angle in the airpath in the biggest wooden part (where the moutpiece goes). Tried a few ways but haven't found an easy/thorough way yet tbh.

Any tips on how to get al the gunk out of the (wooden) angles?
 

Skropi

New Member
I empty and then tap the bowl (upside down) pretty hard on the table after my last hit, there's always some really fine dust coming out, even after emptying the bowl. After that i place the bowl upside down on the mp-part and blow thru it to get it as clean as possible when still hot...This way i can do a whole lot of bowls before it clogs.
Usually manage to remove screen without damaging it, change it over and boil it clean in water or soak it in ISO for a while.
What i find somewhat frustrating is how hard it is to (deep) clean the vapor path. Especially the angle in the airpath in the biggest wooden part (where the moutpiece goes). Tried a few ways but haven't found an easy/thorough way yet tbh.

Any tips on how to get al the gunk out of the (wooden) angles?
A small brush, like the one that comes with the V3pro, can reach every nook and cranny of the SB Runt. I use the brush along with some q tips, and I find the results are good enough with minimal effort. I haven't seen the need for a really thorough cleaning yet, using alcohol etc, except for the mouthpiece, which gets cleaned with some alcohol.
 

Squidge

Butane powered
A small brush, like the one that comes with the V3pro, can reach every nook and cranny of the SB Runt. I use the brush along with some q tips, and I find the results are good enough with minimal effort. I haven't seen the need for a really thorough cleaning yet, using alcohol etc, except for the mouthpiece, which gets cleaned with some alcohol.
You shouldn't use alcohol on wooden vapes, it's not good for the wood. Pure acetone is what should be used for a deep clean, then feeding the wood with a suitable wood conditioner afterwards (Sticky Brick butter or beeswax, for example) - though not in the airpath.

For light cleaning water on a q-tip should suffice. I use the metal scoop/pick supplied with the sticky brick to scrape out any debris that accumulates in the main body.
 

DgN'R

Well-Known Member
I have a question for SBL connoisseurs (especially for the OG here), I notice that all sales sites displays the OG like this:

hndv.png


We can notice the little magnet on the front of the brick as well as the small stainless steel tube of the filling bowl (here surrounded in red).

My unit is slightly different, I do not have the magnet on the front but I have a hole on top to store it (as on the other bricks) and I do not have the stainless steel for the filling chamber:

iyx2.png


I wonder which one of it was the last revision of SBL?

It seems to me to have read that the stainless steel bowl was for the first units? Why did he remove it? Perhaps in order to reduce the price or for users allergic to stainless steel?

Do you think this creates a different experience according to these two bricks (I mean that is worth investing)?
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I have a question for SBL connoisseurs (especially for the OG here), I notice that all sales sites displays the OG like this:

hndv.png


We can notice the little magnet on the front of the brick as well as the small stainless steel tube of the filling bowl (here surrounded in red).

My unit is slightly different, I do not have the magnet on the front but I have a hole on top to store it (as on the other bricks) and I do not have the stainless steel for the filling chamber:

iyx2.png


I wonder which one of it was the last revision of SBL?

It seems to me to have read that the stainless steel bowl was for the first units? Why did he remove it? Perhaps in order to reduce the price or for users allergic to stainless steel?

Do you think this creates a different experience according to these two bricks (I mean that is worth investing)?
The one with the ring was the earlier one, not sure why it was removed other than that it wasn't needed. I have a vape with one and sometimes it sticks if it's humid, maybe it was that kind of thing. My OG is more like yours and I like that the bricks snap apart, everything's quick and easy.
 

DgN'R

Well-Known Member
okay I see! I ask because each time I notice a brick on a sales site, this is the model with stainless steel ring and on the official SBL website this is the one who is highlighted. I told myself that perhaps he had released a new revision. But it seems that the site is not up to date and that many distributors still have the old unit (or have not updated the photos)?

It would even seem that there are models with two stainless steel rings of each side, For example here with the Junior presented by the friend VapelifeX:

9xhe.png



I would love to get my hands on one of these old collection units :love:
 

Squidge

Butane powered
okay I see! I ask because each time I notice a brick on a sales site, this is the model with stainless steel ring and on the official SBL website this is the one who is highlighted. I told myself that perhaps he had released a new revision. But it seems that the site is not up to date and that many distributors still have the old unit (or have not updated the photos)?

It would even seem that there are models with two stainless steel rings of each side, For example here with the Junior presented by the friend VapelifeX:

9xhe.png



I would love to get my hands on one of these old collection units :love:
I've just bought a Jr in maple (it arrived today) and it has one metal ring. My walnut Jr, which I bought 15 months ago has none.
 

DgN'R

Well-Known Member
Hm .. very interesting :rofl:

Could you make an review later to make a comparison of the bricks with and without ring? that interests me a lot.

Do you live in the USA or in Europe? Where did you buy your brick?
 
DgN'R,
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Grass Yes

Yes
Staff member
I do not have the magnet on the front but I have a hole on top to store it (as on the other bricks)
My OG is the original style, including the old MP, connecting steel etc. I did no know that they had removed the front magnet and replaced it with hole on the top. Neat!

My Jr has just one ring, also in the intake side like my OG. I purchased that in November of '21.
 
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