StemPod by MPL
- Thread starter supershredderdan
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26mm
GTAVaper
Well-Known Member
After seeing an Instagram story from Dan recommending the Aegis Legend I found an almost new one for sale at a great price and jumped on it. I am really loving it and the style and build materials really look like it was intended to be used with the StemPod as they match well.
One PITA problem was that I was playing with the temperature control modes and had adjusted the temperature values upwards while in degrees C and when it cycled through it switched to degrees F and so when I was using TCR at 220 F thinking it was C I was getting protection cutoff warnings.
So of course at 220F I am not getting any vapour at all which was irritating as I had really wanted to try to dial in TC mode.
Then when I noticed it was in F I couldn't figure out how to get it back to C because I was sure that I had seen it in C before....until I found a review on the original Aegis that provided that info and tried it on the Legend and found that it was the same. I really wish the mfr had included this little tidbit in the Legend instructions.
But one thing that I am unsure of is why some people are reporting ohm values of 0.115 for the coils and others at .26-.3
I thought that I read in the thread that it is half the resistance for two coils so would the 0.115 be a reading for a mod that calculates the resistance for both coils and the 0.26 -0.3 the resistance for a mod that provides individual coil resistance readings?
Is this right? Otherwise why is there such a large variation in resistance between the reported 0.115 and 0.26?
I am also wondering what the normal room temperature resistance range is for the Clapton coils (individually or in pairs as per the above question) and at what max resistance are these coils usually shot and ready for replacement?
One PITA problem was that I was playing with the temperature control modes and had adjusted the temperature values upwards while in degrees C and when it cycled through it switched to degrees F and so when I was using TCR at 220 F thinking it was C I was getting protection cutoff warnings.
So of course at 220F I am not getting any vapour at all which was irritating as I had really wanted to try to dial in TC mode.
Then when I noticed it was in F I couldn't figure out how to get it back to C because I was sure that I had seen it in C before....until I found a review on the original Aegis that provided that info and tried it on the Legend and found that it was the same. I really wish the mfr had included this little tidbit in the Legend instructions.
But one thing that I am unsure of is why some people are reporting ohm values of 0.115 for the coils and others at .26-.3
I thought that I read in the thread that it is half the resistance for two coils so would the 0.115 be a reading for a mod that calculates the resistance for both coils and the 0.26 -0.3 the resistance for a mod that provides individual coil resistance readings?
Is this right? Otherwise why is there such a large variation in resistance between the reported 0.115 and 0.26?
I am also wondering what the normal room temperature resistance range is for the Clapton coils (individually or in pairs as per the above question) and at what max resistance are these coils usually shot and ready for replacement?
dude , those font and colors are hard to read at the website.
Linseed oil is no good for that box or vape equipment in general-- use carnauba wax or resin- or just leave box untreated.
I recommend making a smaller more pocketable stash box for just one battery and one stem, and adding a small hemp drawstring bag for the stempod itself, which doesn't need to be in a box since it's all metal.
I recommend making a smaller more pocketable stash box for just one battery and one stem, and adding a small hemp drawstring bag for the stempod itself, which doesn't need to be in a box since it's all metal.
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I've ordered a different mod for my StemPod. I bought the Joyetech eVic Primo 2.0 228W.
I have been using an Eleaf iStick Pico 75W with a heat sink. Using AF firmware. At one point I could get the mod to read the proper resistance of the SP (about .24 Ohms) and act as expected when using TCR mode. I set the TCR value to 215, set my temp to 436 F, and set the watts to 50. When fired the mod would heat the coils, eventually reach a temp reading of 436 F, and power cycle to keep the temp relatively constant.
Now it occasionally reads the correct resistance and never reaches the preset temp regardless of the TCR value that I use. I had another AF profile set up for a Ccell oil cart (VW at 8 watts). When I attached the Ccell cart with the heat sink in place the mod would not read it and set the profile correctly. I (stupidly) fried the Ccell cart by firing the mod when it was set to the SP profile. Small flash, slight "popping" sound, and a whiff of electronic smell - dead oil cart with nearly 1 gram left inside.
Anyway I'm blaming the heat sink at this time. I know that the mod I ordered to replace the Pico is pretty basic, but I'm hoping that not needing a heat sink will result in more consistent TC regulation.
I have been using an Eleaf iStick Pico 75W with a heat sink. Using AF firmware. At one point I could get the mod to read the proper resistance of the SP (about .24 Ohms) and act as expected when using TCR mode. I set the TCR value to 215, set my temp to 436 F, and set the watts to 50. When fired the mod would heat the coils, eventually reach a temp reading of 436 F, and power cycle to keep the temp relatively constant.
Now it occasionally reads the correct resistance and never reaches the preset temp regardless of the TCR value that I use. I had another AF profile set up for a Ccell oil cart (VW at 8 watts). When I attached the Ccell cart with the heat sink in place the mod would not read it and set the profile correctly. I (stupidly) fried the Ccell cart by firing the mod when it was set to the SP profile. Small flash, slight "popping" sound, and a whiff of electronic smell - dead oil cart with nearly 1 gram left inside.
Anyway I'm blaming the heat sink at this time. I know that the mod I ordered to replace the Pico is pretty basic, but I'm hoping that not needing a heat sink will result in more consistent TC regulation.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Hippie
Well-Known Member
I've had similar bother this week with the 27mm heatsinks I mentioned before.
They looked good but gave inconsistent readings so I'm back to using the 25mm ones after a lot of head scratching checkng out the different firmware options on my new invoke this week.
You could try unscrewing the centre pin and see if it's possible to adjust it. Most are just push fit so the screw will probably just turn but not actually move in and out but it's worth a shot as some are adjustable.
They looked good but gave inconsistent readings so I'm back to using the 25mm ones after a lot of head scratching checkng out the different firmware options on my new invoke this week.
You could try unscrewing the centre pin and see if it's possible to adjust it. Most are just push fit so the screw will probably just turn but not actually move in and out but it's worth a shot as some are adjustable.
Easywider
Simple is the way
I've been using some hive coils from fastetch and they seem to be a nice upgrade from the claptons. I'm running 60w TRC230 locked @ 0.28ohms. Not drawing on the unit I get a slight coil glow around 6-7 seconds that fades quickly. Performance is almost instant, if I want to a roast a quick basket I can finish one in three 10second hits @ 430f , perfectly even abv. Alternatively I can play around 375f for some tasty sips.
Here's a shot of the coils on the deck
Modnote: Replaced small image with bigger version
Here's a shot of the coils on the deck
Modnote: Replaced small image with bigger version
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HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Looks great I also run a set of hive coils on the wismec sinuous p80 for travel. Feel it's a nice balance coil. The glow isn't too bad and uses less wattage the some other coil builds. Really quick heat up is a plus and the hive coil runs TC better than claptons on the wismec mod I have.
Easywider
Simple is the way
@HerbieVonVapster I actually grabbed the hive coils based on your opinion from a previous post. Thanks for sharing your knowledge these coils have really improved my experience. I just recently grabbed the vape-deals Wiesmec DNA 250 that @Summer posted 
and I'm looking forward to trying out your FC share file.
I have a cpl mixer packs of coils, next I want to build a quad deck. Wish I had grabbed an extra deck for experimental builds. The set up I have now is dialled in perfect, but looking at all these different coils possibilities is making me want to go back to the lab.
and I'm looking forward to trying out your FC share file. I have a cpl mixer packs of coils, next I want to build a quad deck. Wish I had grabbed an extra deck for experimental builds. The set up I have now is dialled in perfect, but looking at all these different coils possibilities is making me want to go back to the lab.
foggyent
Well-Known Member
I bumped the power up the 65 Watts and now TC is working great. Looking at some of the posts about different coils, and try to decide what to try next. Can someone give me a breakdown on the difference between Super Claptons & Hive coils? I'm interested in heat up time, vapor production, & flavor. Also haven't seen anything on the Dragon Scale coils, any reason?
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Hey @foggyen here is a good place start for TC info.
https://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/
I'm just starting to use the Stempod more with a DNA mod. Stempod been my travel vape on a non DND mod most of the time , so it has got the less loving in the FCSHARES downloads. Now that I have a extra DNA mod and the time revisiting these file.
I'm going suggest using a TCR value of 185. I changed that in the stempod profile and DNA75c/250c downloads. in and attempt to make this work with the most different coil builds as possible. Depending on hot or cold vapor feels you can adjust TCR up or down. This might not be the best solution for every different coil. I rather have used TRF cvs if had only been one coil. I'm hoping this work the best for the most coil builds. Feel it's easier to use TCR where value can be easily adjust than trying make custom files for bunch different coil.
Info below is from above link it's a rather a long read. I think it might help with understand some of the current issue when using different SS coils. Altho you can make more completeced coil build it's harder to get as stable as a reading that a simpler build offers in TC mode. The highlighted section are issue I run into when I try different coils. It makes making a specific general cvs file more difficult for stempod since everyones using different coil with different material from different manufactures.
My suggestion is whatever SS wire stempod uses for coils should be a high quality 316L. Since depending on vendor there not all equal and having added alloys can play havoc with getting DNA TC dialed in. I'm still trying understand pros and cons of different wire builds other than placebo or to showoff the build. There cool to look at but think most of use want performance over looks. Problem is there a lot conflicting info online. Add mods and coils are mostly used with liquid instead of running dry material makes it more of a niche market with limited info.
Stainless steel (specifically, SS-316L). Stainless steel is the (relatively) new-comer on the block. It is quite fascinating wire. It has a still-higher resistivity than Ni or Ti (5.82 Ohm per meter for 26 AWG, giving 0.441 Ohm for a 8-wrap, 2 mm ID single coil), which means you can actually use lower guage SS to great effect, as well as play around with parallel/complex builds without having to worry about too low ohms. It is quite soft wire (softer than Kanthal and Ti), but not as annoyingly soft as Nickel. The best thing about stainless steel is that it can be used in TC as well as non-TC mode - Stainless Steel needs massively high temperatures before thermal oxidation will start to occur. That means you can generally build coils like you’d do with Kanthal, including pulsing your coils. It also means that you can have an atty with SS coils and transfer the atty from TC to non-TC mod without issues, or switch to power mode if you messed up with the TC configuration somewhere. Many vapers also report that SS has a very clean taste - with very little to none ‘metal’ taste. (My own tastebuds honestly can’t tell a difference between any of the wires). I also don’t know of anybody who are particularly sensitive to stainless steel, so generally none of those worries either. Stainless steel does have a slight tendency to melt when pulsed to high (specifically where the legs are screwed down), but that generally only happens if you tend to shout YOLO while you build. In the same vein, SS will be easier cut than Kanthal or Titanium if you have sharpish screws in your deck.
SS does have a few issues when it comes to TC, however. Firstly, and most importantly, it has a very low TCR value - which means that SS coil resistances changes very little when heated in comparison to Nickel (~ 10 times less) or Titanium (~ 5 times less). These smaller changes in resistance becomes more difficult for your mod to read, which means its TC accuracy is quite low. Practically speaking, you might often encounter a very observable drop, or fluctuation, in your vape when it nears the temp limit. With tweaking (either of your TCR or TFR if you have escribe) you can alleviate these effects somewhat, but it generally is (for me at least) never as good as Ni or Ti. Secondly, as I’ve already mentioned, the quality and physical properties of SS wires differs greatly from alloy to alloy and manufacturer to manufacturer - which means that SS often times requires more initial playing around with the TC settings to get right. Lastly, because of the low TCR, you cannot generally use SS as a ‘temp-sensing’ wire in more complicated builds, and mixed with other TC wires it generally just messes up your TC.
(replay attempts to address the mixed builds issue )added by herbie
On the other hand, with SS you can build more complicated builds (such as all-SS clapton, or all-SS twisted) wires much more easily and efficiently, and still have these builds working in TC mode. I enjoy SS quite a lot, and have found that some of the TC issues can be sorted out through playing with the TC settings and building higher resistance coils. Since the change in resistance observed when heating a coil is larger for higher resistance coils, you can significantly improve SS TC accuracy by building higher resistance coils than what you would build with Ni or Ti.
https://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/
I'm just starting to use the Stempod more with a DNA mod. Stempod been my travel vape on a non DND mod most of the time , so it has got the less loving in the FCSHARES downloads. Now that I have a extra DNA mod and the time revisiting these file.
I'm going suggest using a TCR value of 185. I changed that in the stempod profile and DNA75c/250c downloads. in and attempt to make this work with the most different coil builds as possible. Depending on hot or cold vapor feels you can adjust TCR up or down. This might not be the best solution for every different coil. I rather have used TRF cvs if had only been one coil. I'm hoping this work the best for the most coil builds. Feel it's easier to use TCR where value can be easily adjust than trying make custom files for bunch different coil.
Info below is from above link it's a rather a long read. I think it might help with understand some of the current issue when using different SS coils. Altho you can make more completeced coil build it's harder to get as stable as a reading that a simpler build offers in TC mode. The highlighted section are issue I run into when I try different coils. It makes making a specific general cvs file more difficult for stempod since everyones using different coil with different material from different manufactures.
My suggestion is whatever SS wire stempod uses for coils should be a high quality 316L. Since depending on vendor there not all equal and having added alloys can play havoc with getting DNA TC dialed in. I'm still trying understand pros and cons of different wire builds other than placebo or to showoff the build. There cool to look at but think most of use want performance over looks. Problem is there a lot conflicting info online. Add mods and coils are mostly used with liquid instead of running dry material makes it more of a niche market with limited info.
Stainless steel (specifically, SS-316L). Stainless steel is the (relatively) new-comer on the block. It is quite fascinating wire. It has a still-higher resistivity than Ni or Ti (5.82 Ohm per meter for 26 AWG, giving 0.441 Ohm for a 8-wrap, 2 mm ID single coil), which means you can actually use lower guage SS to great effect, as well as play around with parallel/complex builds without having to worry about too low ohms. It is quite soft wire (softer than Kanthal and Ti), but not as annoyingly soft as Nickel. The best thing about stainless steel is that it can be used in TC as well as non-TC mode - Stainless Steel needs massively high temperatures before thermal oxidation will start to occur. That means you can generally build coils like you’d do with Kanthal, including pulsing your coils. It also means that you can have an atty with SS coils and transfer the atty from TC to non-TC mod without issues, or switch to power mode if you messed up with the TC configuration somewhere. Many vapers also report that SS has a very clean taste - with very little to none ‘metal’ taste. (My own tastebuds honestly can’t tell a difference between any of the wires). I also don’t know of anybody who are particularly sensitive to stainless steel, so generally none of those worries either. Stainless steel does have a slight tendency to melt when pulsed to high (specifically where the legs are screwed down), but that generally only happens if you tend to shout YOLO while you build. In the same vein, SS will be easier cut than Kanthal or Titanium if you have sharpish screws in your deck.
SS does have a few issues when it comes to TC, however. Firstly, and most importantly, it has a very low TCR value - which means that SS coil resistances changes very little when heated in comparison to Nickel (~ 10 times less) or Titanium (~ 5 times less). These smaller changes in resistance becomes more difficult for your mod to read, which means its TC accuracy is quite low. Practically speaking, you might often encounter a very observable drop, or fluctuation, in your vape when it nears the temp limit. With tweaking (either of your TCR or TFR if you have escribe) you can alleviate these effects somewhat, but it generally is (for me at least) never as good as Ni or Ti. Secondly, as I’ve already mentioned, the quality and physical properties of SS wires differs greatly from alloy to alloy and manufacturer to manufacturer - which means that SS often times requires more initial playing around with the TC settings to get right. Lastly, because of the low TCR, you cannot generally use SS as a ‘temp-sensing’ wire in more complicated builds, and mixed with other TC wires it generally just messes up your TC.
(replay attempts to address the mixed builds issue )added by herbie
On the other hand, with SS you can build more complicated builds (such as all-SS clapton, or all-SS twisted) wires much more easily and efficiently, and still have these builds working in TC mode. I enjoy SS quite a lot, and have found that some of the TC issues can be sorted out through playing with the TC settings and building higher resistance coils. Since the change in resistance observed when heating a coil is larger for higher resistance coils, you can significantly improve SS TC accuracy by building higher resistance coils than what you would build with Ni or Ti.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Yeah I keep telling you guys from the beginning: exotic coils used in e-cig (as well as concentrates vapes) are designed to improve wicking. If you have nothing to wick it's pointless. What we need is increased air contact surface area. But ok, maybe more nooks and crannies can achieve that result but I don't think air passing at high velocity has any chance to follow the curve of these irregular surfaces, I think it just flows alongside, contrary to liquid that flows in.
So use a large diameter (ie. small ga value, like 22 to 18) wire, which will have a low resistance. Thus you need more wire to have an acceptable resistance, which in turn means more surface area. And since the wire is larger to begin with, it's all good. Bonus: it will never glow even the slightest and you're not taking risks with super fine strands mixed in (like in claptons etc) that could potentially vaporize when overheated (as happen if you try to build with too fine of a mesh for instance)
Everything you read about coils online is for e-liquids and eventually concentrates when using the new wickless trend (cf. advanced e-cig concentrates thread here) For dry herbs and convection, read the BULLI thread (where it all started) then the Project thread, and you'll see where we're at. Single and double stove-top coils are really good, I think inception ones could work too... or spaghetti monsters and roller coasters like I end up winding myself.
foggyent
Well-Known Member
Thanks @HerbieVonVapster and @KeroZen for you detailed posts.
You think this is better than the Stempodt material even with the stock Clapton coils?
What is the consensus on mesh wire like this:
https://www.elementvape.com/vandy-vape-mesh-wire-spools-5-feet
It comes in a few different guages, and I think it would work well if I can figure out a way to make it fit through the posts.
You think this is better than the Stempodt material even with the stock Clapton coils?
What is the consensus on mesh wire like this:
https://www.elementvape.com/vandy-vape-mesh-wire-spools-5-feet
It comes in a few different guages, and I think it would work well if I can figure out a way to make it fit through the posts.
superdang9000
Flameo Hotman!
I've tried some builds with that mesh and had no success (both the 200 mesh and 400 mesh). There just wasn't enough room between the posts to mount it in a way that A) had enough surface area and B) didn't short. But I'm pretty new with these types of builds, so maybe somebody else would have better luck.
foggyent
Well-Known Member
Good read, with lots of good information. Do you know if Parts 2 & 3 were ever written?
I would be interested in setting up profiles for Temperature Protected and Hybrid modes, as described in the Section 6 of the guide, but there is no information on how to do it. In Escribe you have to choose either TC or Wattage. I guess for Temperature Protected mode I could do a TC profile with no pre-heat and set the temperature at 420-430. For Hybrid I would guess to do a TC profile (w/ Pre-heat) and use a lower wattage so to get a slower heat up.
@HerbieVonVapster mentioned tweaking the TCR value to adjust the heat. Would this allow me to get TC working at a lower wattage, and if so what would be the advantage of that?
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Thanks for pointing out those threads yes tons of good info and most question has already been covered there. Sadly the diy section is one of the last place most would search for answer on there new 510 purchase.
Thinks like above threads and the TC box mods firmware discussion are kinda get lost over there. Even thou the info answer are there most folk don't want or have time to read 100's of post to attempt to find a answer.
Suggested using TCR due to wide range of different coils since much easier to make than a TRF file.
The stempod only recently had a DNA mod to call home. In the past had to change out coils and mod to test the DNA settings. With all the different coils in use been hard to make a universal material cvs for stempod.
My stempod has been used for travel on a non dna mod. Other than testing for these files (I run a hive coil) I don't use the stock coils. So to be honest working on DNA profile for it hasn't been on the top of my to do list. Up till recently there wasn't too many of us using DNA with the stempods.
Now with more DNA/Stempod user I'm going work on these more. In the meantime felt using TCR is best option for most allowing the easiest way to tweak TC.
Main problems I'm running into on stempod are the 316L material file with stempods stock coils runs way too cold. It only works if you increase your temperature by 100 degrees. I have adjusted a material file to read closer to stock coils. That is the stempod file that in there currently.
Now that I went back and retested the stempod file i'm really not happy with it's performance. Still a little unsure why stempod would respond differently when matched to the correct 316L material file using it's stock coils. The stempod file kinda works but not nearly as well as a matching material file to the coil material would.
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TNT_error
Well-Known Member
Agree with @KeroZen and @HerbieVonVapster. A simple 6 wrap 26g ss is the way to go. Keeps the SP cooler and doesn't drain batteries. Has anyone attempted to install mesh wires like the splinter and iheat?
@supershredderdan i don't follow this thread at detail , but i want to bring to you attention something that i saw today , is the Maze Rta flat coil , is a flat SS coil , when you saw it ( if you don't already saw it ) imagine it with a kind of thin layer make of ceramic instead of the cotton , and this ceramic layer with a lot of tiny hole ( maybe now reading it don't make sense but when you saw will make more say ( maybe ) ) , you can find it at youtube with the keywords: The maze Rda flat coil. @KeroZen check that too . cheers
Brisirg
Member
@supershredderdan i saw some pics on your instagram with the aegis legend. How's the mod working for you in TCR and what's the battery life?
I've only used the TC once or twice, mostly because I'm changing coils often these days trying out new stuff for the store/coil club. I found the TC to be pretty good, but still not as good as a mod with CFW. In wattage it puts out power very consistently compared to other mods, and I find I use a lower wattage than most box mods I've used to get the same output all other variables the same. it also doesn't get hot at all under heavy use and has a similar metal and silicon feel as the StemPod does.
They make a good pair together, as long as you remember to retrigger the fire button before the 10 second cut off for a long draw