Silver Surfer Vaporizer

[grokit]

I see you have the SSV oil kit. How do you like it? How does it compare to a traditional enail?
I have DaBuddha and have asked in that thread but no luck. Thinking of taking advantage of the 4/20 sale to replace my broken enail.
Thanks,

Mike

I also have an enail from dhgate and prefer that overall, the ssv kit is more for low-temp and hashish but idk as I really don't do much of any of it. What tips the scale towards the enail for me is the ability to dab from other materials than ti, like quartz dishes also ceramic, silicon carbide and sapphire on the high end.

 

[slozukimc]

I also have an enail from dhgate and prefer that overall, the ssv kit is more for low-temp and hashish but idk as I really don't do much of any of it. What tips the scale towards the enail for me is the ability to dab from other materials than ti, like quartz dishes also ceramic, silicon carbide and sapphire on the high end.

I like low temp and my wife prefers almost combustion temps. She is pretty happy with a torch and quartz nail but I hate it because I always seem to either get it too hot or not wait long enough for the temp I want.
My enail probably came from dhgate as well. The thermocouple is damaged in the coil so it shows EEEE sometimes, gets red hot and does not read accurate at all. I could just replace the coil and get a new Ti/quartz nail.
I am considering the EOK for safety as well. I broke our last rig because I left the nail in it to cool and then later in the day happened to lean over my desk and catch my sweatshirt on the wire knocking the whole deal on the floor. I like the idea of the hot parts being where it is very unlikely to burn anyone or to tip over and burn my house down if I happened to forget to turn it off and the cat knocked it over or something. I figure I can put a hose to GonG fitting on the hose to attach to the rig. That way I can put things where they are safe from harm right away.
So if you could come up with a ceramic or quartz nail that would work in place of the Ti in the EOK would you consider using it over the enail? Will it get hot enough to do higher temp dabs if you wait long enough for it to heat up?
Right now it is either this or the hybrid nail, new coil and https://www.thickassglass.com/products/tag-replacement-domeless-silicon-carbide-dish to fix the enail.

Thanks agin, Mike

 

[grokit]

It does get hot enough to dab/clean. I would use either one, and I can see your point on safety. I have a timer on my enail for that reason. From what I've read, some prefer the dbv version over the ssv version of the kit because the dish sits level. There is also a benefit to the angle imo, but it's negligible. For $12.50 that sic dish looks like fun, and if you both dab a lot I'm sure you could benefit from the oil kit too

 

[slozukimc]

It does get hot enough to dab/clean. I would use either one, and I can see your point on safety. I have a timer on my enail for that reason. From what I've read, some prefer the dbv version over the ssv version of the kit because the dish sits level. There is also a benefit to the angle imo, but it's negligible. For $12.50 that sic dish looks like fun, and if you both dab a lot I'm sure you could benefit from the oil kit too

Yeah! Just buy both. Lol. Eventually maybe.

I am wondering if the nails they make for the portable rigs like the Dr Dabber that are on dhgate would work. They have quartz and ceramic ones as replacements.

@grokit is there any chance you could send me measurements of the Ti nail for your SSV?

Thanks again!

 

[grokit]

I was thinking that maybe one of the liger inserts would fit inside the oil kit nail. Sorry I don't have access for measurements, it's in storage atm. But it has to fit onto the element, and also be small enough to get it through the hole in the glass dome so I think those would be the parameters to be concerned about.

 

[slozukimc]

I was thinking that maybe one of the liger inserts would fit inside the oil kit nail. Sorry I don't have access for measurements, it's in storage atm. But it has to fit onto the element, and also be small enough to get it through the hole in the glass dome so I think those would be the parameters to be concerned about.

I put in a call to 7th floor so hoping for a call back tomorrow so I can ask them.

Thanks again

 

[slozukimc]

I put in a call to 7th floor so hoping for a call back tomorrow so I can ask them.

Thanks again

Got a call back @7:30am their time. Found out they offer both borosilicate and quartz dishes to go inside the Ti nail.
If I could get a SiC dish for it there would be no question whether to go with the EOK.

 

[grokit]

Found out they offer both borosilicate and quartz dishes to go inside the Ti nail.

Thanks, that's good to know

 

[BR Ron]

Hey Stickstones, that 30% off is a killer deal. I have the EOK. I think the flavor, and high are pretty good. That said I usually get higher, faster with an enail and a rig. I like both, but when I am out in my shop the EOK has a few small quartz pieces you have to be careful with. Anyway both are nice to have.

 

[acolyte]

Hey all, just got the SSV about a week ago, never tried it before that. I am a daily vaper, I have a volcano classic, dab rig, and lots of other smoking tools. But so far this one takes the cake..

I have spent quite a bit of time reading through this thread but I had a couple questions I couldn't find.. please let me know if it's expected I read through all 293 pages before asking a question like this? But I couldn't find these on Google either.

What's the easiest way to get the ABV from your wand when it's cashed? Right now I use a toothpick, but it's hard to get all of the flakes out, they get very sticky.. I'm vaping well cured herb but it's very resiny. I'm thinking of getting a small brush.

Also, has anyone noticed getting bigger hits when hitting the ssv dry? Mine came with a little bubbler, and I've also hooked it to my 18" beaker, and I notice I get a hell of a lot more vapor with just the mouthpiece. I actually tried it for the first time last night and was blown away by the flavor and amount of vapor.

I also seem to notice that sometimes, despite my experience with the MFLB and people's descriptions online, I seem to get more vapor when I breathe in faster, up to a certain point.. I only found one other person that said this. But it's like if I draw too slowly, not enough air gets to the herb. I've read this can cause the herb to combust, but it just seems to vape slower. I'm talking about a normal draw rate with the MFLB.

I did combust twice the first day I got the ssv.. no clue how it happened exactly, and it hasn't happened since. The bowl might have been packed too firm possibly (I don't pack it at all anymore)

 

[howie105]

What's the easiest way to get the ABV from your wand when it's cashed? Right now I use a toothpick, but it's hard to get all of the flakes out, they get very sticky.. I'm vaping well cured herb but it's very resiny. I'm thinking of getting a small brush.....Brush works great and if ISO isn't on your no list an alcohol swish and a brush works even better.

I actually tried it for the first time last night and was blown away by the flavor and amount of vapor....I have an LSV (SS cousin) and ninety percent of the time I use it dry for the same reasons you sighted. For a fun dry change up try a steamroller.

I also seem to notice that sometimes, despite my experience with the MFLB and people's descriptions online, I seem to get more vapor when I breathe in faster, up to a certain point.....Same thing as with the MFLB, draw rates can be as important as dial settings when it comes to temperature control.

Also try different grinds and load sizes, they can cause major shits in performance. Good luck and enjoy.

 

[grokit]

What's the easiest way to get the ABV from your wand when it's cashed? Right now I use a toothpick, but it's hard to get all of the flakes out, they get very sticky.. I'm vaping well cured herb but it's very resiny. I'm thinking of getting a small brush.

When you buy new 7th floor gives you one of their glass marble picks, one of two handy tools I use that meets most of my vaping needs. The second tool I'm picturing is from skillet tools, it's called their honeybun and it's also very useful. I use things like wooden dowels, metal pokers and flat scrapers far less often.

 

[acolyte]

howie105 interesting to hear, I'll have to keep using it dry for a while

grokit, do you have problems with the screen shifting when you use the marble pick? When I use a toothpick, I feel like I'm going to knock my screen out (sometimes it shifts..) but maybe I need to do a better job getting the screen in securely.

My screen is curved upward, as per 7th Floor's video on changing screens, which does seem to help a lot with airflow. But then the avb gets stuck in a small ridge, which I can't pick too hard without removing the screen..

By the way, if anyone's on the fence about the ssv.. it is worth it

 

[vbeazy]

Hey all,

What's the easiest way to get the ABV from your wand when it's cashed?

Hey man,

I use these for stirring between hits & cleaning the whip out.

Stainless pick. I have the older style also and prefer it, but this new one is also nice!

Regarding the picks from 7th Floor.. they get caught in the metal screen when stirring; it's a minor annoyance but I don't like using them. They lack shape so they're ineffective at stirring a bowl. I haven't notice them moving my screen around, but that's irrelevant personally (as long as the screen is properly seated).

Glad you're enjoying the SSV! I'm surfing right now.. many years later.. and I'm more satisfied than on day one.

 

[acolyte]

Maybe it needs to be cleaned up. Rubbing alcohol should do it. If not a fine sandpaper could rough it up enough for the wand to stick.

Just a thought, but I always give the wand a slight twist as I insert it. And an opposite twist as I remove it. Maybe that's the problem.

And if all that fails, I'm sure 7th floor would replace, if it's truly defective.

When I first started using the glass on glass, the wand kept falling out (when I wasn't looking) so I didn't know how it happened. Anyways, after I saw the tip to twist the wand, it hasn't fallen out since.

Be sure to give it a very light twist, like a 1/32nd turn.. I twisted it about a quarter turn once, and it got stuck. I had to turn off the unit to let it cool and take some time separating the glass.

-vbeazy that looks great, I ordered it. Price actually beat most of dhgate.

 

[grokit]

grokit, do you have problems with the screen shifting when you use the marble pick? When I use a toothpick, I feel like I'm going to knock my screen out (sometimes it shifts..) but maybe I need to do a better job getting the screen in securely.

Not really, mine gets resined in there pretty well but I use a basket screen mod as well. You could also try a larger size screen, which will make it harder to get in/out but it would be less prone to moving around.

Or you could try flattening yours out after you insert it, maybe that would help it stay in place for you.

 

[acolyte]

What's the best way to do a basket mod? Searching doesn't come up with much.. I've been aware of the ddave mod for a while now, but I like to do things myself and was curious if there's a good diy option to go with the standard GG heater cover.

Also, I might have just fixed my screen problem.. I'm using .625" stainless screens which are a tiny bit bigger than the 7th floor screens (.58"). So I was putting too much of a curve on it to make it fit.

I'm now just putting a very slight curve in it, then finaggling with it more to get it in the wand. That seems to provide a better seat and seal on the bottom. The upwards curve still does seem to work really well.

 

[grokit]

You need the standard ground glass wand and heater cover, then you just add an arizer basket screen to the end of the wand. This will also work with da buddha and light saber heater covers/wands.

 

[CalyxSmokr]

howie105 interesting to hear, I'll have to keep using it dry for a while

grokit, do you have problems with the screen shifting when you use the marble pick? When I use a toothpick, I feel like I'm going to knock my screen out (sometimes it shifts..) but maybe I need to do a better job getting the screen in securely.

My screen is curved upward, as per 7th Floor's video on changing screens, which does seem to help a lot with airflow. But then the avb gets stuck in a small ridge, which I can't pick too hard without removing the screen..

By the way, if anyone's on the fence about the ssv.. it is worth it

I think your screen is not all the way in. When it is properly placed the fit is very tight. I think it goes under 2 of the glass nipples and over the other.

 

[Vapordreamer]

Ok, so something quite sad happened.
I hooked up my SSV to a water pipe and stuck the whip directly into the water pipe which created a vacuum and shot the water directly into the electronics. There were small flames and lightning and then one of the cables melted to the side.
I am based in Europe and bought this vape like 6 years ago. The SSV has been taken from the European market and warranty has expired.
The orange light turns still one but not the heating element.
It seems only one cable is broken.
Do you think I can just go to any electrician and tell them to fix it? (I am living in NL by the way).







photo sharing

 

[Prolusio]

That black wire is the one you're referring too? Looks pretty flat to me. I believe that wire comes right off the dimmer switch to the heating element.. It would not have melted unless something inside the SSV shorted out causing too much current to be drawn; so one of your components could be fried unfortunately. That would explain the lighting, since the wire jacket is still intact you can pretty safely assume it did not short out against the SSV body and one of the components was the cause instead.

Since the LED is still lighting up this leads me to think the dimmer is still partly working, at least enough to allow current through for the LED, so it could be the heating element itself that is no longer functioning.. You'd probably have to check it out with a meter to be sure which part is the culprit though. Maybe that wire is just adding too much resistance for the heating element now that it's all melted? Hard to say with just a picture unfortunately.

All of the components should be easy for a competent electrician to replace/diagnose! (source, I am an electrician) 7th floor sells an at-home repair kit so you should be able to contact them for the replacement parts; I doubt it'd be easy for someone to source the right parts from their supplier, but it's possible. 7th floor also has a video showing how to replace the dimmer/heating element if you have some tools and feel like giving it a shot!

 

[Vapordreamer]

Awesomem thx for the quick reply .
Yeah, the black wire is the one I am referring to.
So in the best case only the wire adds too much resistance and I just need one new wire.
I don't really know what checking with a meter means though.
The replacement process seems simple enough for me but don't really know what kind of wires I need and if they sell the same wires also in Europe or if there are differences in units.
Either way reparing my existing unit will be probably cheaper than to get a new one.\

Maybe I can just find out the wire I need somehow and then replace it myself and if the heating element is not working trying to buy a new one from 7th floor.
I really wanna avoid shipping stuff from the US though.

 

[Prolusio]

Sorry this got long, I ramble when I get interested!

So in the best case only the wire adds too much resistance and I just need one new wire.

Yes best case scenario it's just that wire.. but something had to short out to cause that wire to melt in the first place, so something could be broken. Might have just been the moisture though, if you're lucky! If you replace that one wire but not the broken part it's attached to you could see more sparks though; potentially even damaging another component in the process. I wouldn't replace that wire before checking out the dimmer/heater just to be safe.

don't really know what kind of wires I need and if they sell the same wires also in Europe or if there are differences in units.

100% confident that the type of wire is not special, it's typical stranded copper wire you should be able to pick it up at any hardware store. It's hard to tell from the image but I believe the size is either #14 or #16 AWG. It might be stamped on the wire in small writing. The sizing is backwards, #14 is larger than #16. If you're not sure go with #14 AWG (~2.08 mm2, 28/.03 stranding if that means anything to you?), it can handle more than enough current for the SSV.

I guess you guys might use a different wire sizing though? Honestly as long as it doesn't look to be smaller wire you'll be ok...

The colour of the wire is not important it's just to help keep things separate. Just make sure the wire you get is stranded copper, isn't visually smaller than the wire in the SSV, and can fit in a crimp connector like the one currently on the bad wire for easy install. (They're called nylon fully insulated disconnects. The colour on these does matter, different colours are different sizes). Alternatively you could use a wire nut or push connector to join the wires, if you have trouble finding crimp connectors.

Unfortunately now that I look closer it seems the wire coming off of the dimmer is soldered on.. so you'll either have to do some soldering to reattach a new wire to it; or see if part of the wire coming off of the dimmer is still intact enough to splice onto before where it melted.

When I mentioned a meter I meant using a multimeter to check out the resistance of the individual components.. I think it's probably the only way a person could reliably figure out what still fully works, other than the old trial and error test of course. But just be careful if you decide to get a meter! They're extremely useful tools and it's easy to find affordable ones, there's tons of good tutorials on how to use them.. BUT - They are not safe to use on LIVE circuits unless you are 100% confident in their operation, seriously they can explode.

You wouldn't need to use it on anything powered/live to check the resistance, so it's not dangerous to use it to check your SSV parts..just obligatory PSA for when you find out how cool meters are and want to start checking everything you own .

If it were my SSV... I would take everything apart and measure the resistance of the heater and the dimmer (which is pretty much just a potentiometer I think? Hard to see but I think it's just mounted on a board) to see if their measured resistance values match up with the expected factory values.

If I got a resistance (Ohms) that's way off then I know that component is damaged, no way around it I'd just have to replace it. If the resistance values match up with what they're supposed to then I SHOULD be totally safe to just replace that melted wire and fire it up. Probably would have to contact 7th floor for the right factory resistance values though, not sure they would be visible.

Either way reparing my existing unit will be probably cheaper than to get a new one.\

I think so too! I was going to get an LSV during the 4/20 sales but they wanted over $50 usd for shipping!? Then there's the import fees.. yikes. The work itself isn't too difficult, other than the soldering can be a little tricky.. But it's already broken right? Not much to lose!

Anyways, hopefully something in all that rambling was clear/useful to you @Vapordreamer! I'd be happy to provide more assistance in a PM or something if you try to tackle it yourself and have some difficulty. I've also heard 7th floor is pretty good to deal with over the phone so they might be able to provide you some support!

Good luck! Let us know how the repairs go; hopefully you'll be riding the wave again soon!

 

[Vapordreamer]

Thx Prolusio,

I will definitely keep in touch with you via PM.
I really want to repair this unit but do not know if soldering is something I can do since I have no power tools or if I should outsource that to an electrician.
Also measuring resistance is a process I am not familiar with (yet).
I am gonna read some more through the links you provided.

In the mean time I also got contacted by someone from 7th floor themselves and they were so kind to offer me a new heating element or dimmer switch for a relatively small fee.
So if either one of these components is broken, I can replace it .

 

[acolyte]

vbeazy, that pick tool is the absolute tops for clearing the ssv bowl.