Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

herbivore21

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
CrazyDiamond said:
@herbivore21 I missed that...so the Reynold's brand is no go or is it cool? Can you give me a brief snippet of why we shouldn't use parchment for rosintech?

I just might go arbor press instead of vice so that I might be able to use these as insulators between heat plates and tool.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phenolic-ep...13-Lot-of-2-/291392125532?hash=item43d852fa5c
Yes they are very thick, too thick for a vise and I wouldn't know how to cut them (have heard it's extremely dusty when cutting this stuff) but they would fit an arbor press easily I would think. The main description says G10, G11, G13, but in the body it's a lot of two blocks, G11, high temp, high pressure. There is a question asked there about temperature rating and he says 265F...the G11 according to MILSPEC is good over 300F...am I wrong on this?

And the G11 is very expensive so this seems like a great deal...what do you all think?
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Hey bro, can't find specific info on Reynold's website about the composition of their parchment paper.

However, here's a pic of parchment that has soaked in essential oils from a nug being squished:

AgEtZzHh.jpg


Note the spots there? Those spots of oil are completely one with the parchment. They will not be coming out anytime soon! They signify that the platinum cured silicone coating has been permeated by essential oils. This may be taken to indicate that the silicone layer has been compromised and that some of this layer may have come apart from the parchment into your puck/earl. It also means that further handling will increasingly risk silicone coming apart from the parchment into your extract. This is a concern. Silicone is absolutely unequivocally bad news to heat and inhale!

I should note that the above is a piece of slick wrap parchment, which was only doing a soft pre-press on a nug to get it flattened out. This squish did not even juice it enough for a single dab yield!

EDIT: Here's the yield from the subsequent proper squish of the same nug :D Just dabbed it - so heady!!!!!!!
jZ8RAwdh.jpg
 
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herbivore21

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
CrazyDiamond said:
@herbivore21 I haven't seen any spots after a press...it all comes up on the dabber...hold the parchment up to led light and it looks brand new except for the crease...could that mean that it's "good" for lack of a better term?
Beautiful dab by the way :)
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Oh man, it tasted so nice! Just followed it up with some incredible tasting reclaim from my Mighty Cooling unit (seriously got like half a g of clear orange earl out of it today) which tasted nice too!

I can't believe how much amazing non-hydrocarbon/solventless extracts I have to dab these days, I am truly in flavor country!

If you can't see seepage into the parchment, that is a good sign, can't rule out problems due to constituents of the parchment by this - but so long as you are using each piece for only a single use you are doing the best you can just now (presuming the parchment is non-quilon based etc) :)

Teflon is equally problematic when used for squishing buds, the teflon wrap gets deformed badly in the squish as I mentioned before (hash is great with teflon though, no deformation/multiple uses kinda great!).
 
Quetzalcoatl

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
herbivore21 said:
Oh man, it tasted so nice! Just followed it up with some incredible tasting reclaim from my Mighty Cooling unit (seriously got like half a g of clear orange earl out of it today) which tasted nice too!

I can't believe how much amazing non-hydrocarbon/solventless extracts I have to dab these days, I am truly in flavor country!

If you can't see seepage into the parchment, that is a good sign, can't rule out problems due to constituents of the parchment by this - but so long as you are using each piece for only a single use you are doing the best you can just now (presuming the parchment is non-quilon based etc) :)

Teflon is equally problematic when used for squishing buds, the teflon wrap gets deformed badly in the squish as I mentioned before (hash is great with teflon though, no deformation/multiple uses kinda great!).
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I had that parchment problem. Turns out it was shitty parchment. Have not had that issue since switching brands.
 
J

Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
herbivore21 said:
They signify that the psiling has been permeated by essential oils
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. So the slick wrap you are recommending is being permeated with oil even though it's 10x the price and platinum cured? Hmm

What's this new material you speak of?

Waiting for it to be released?


Dnail? Oil slick?

Edit: I see no black spots or oil seepage on my parchment. I did not like the Reynolds brand at all however.

I think I will go back to multiple presses for shorter times. :)
 
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2clicker

2clicker

Observer
shark sandwich said:
@kazz

I forget who originally recommended them, but you want the Loof straighteners, they go down to 122F.
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for some reason i cannot find the larger brand name options, but there are quite a few on amazon that are 180-400F adjustable. HERE is one option. ill find more...

also i am considering mounting my heat plates to THESE magnetic jaw caps. my only issue now is where does the heat insulation go between the heaters and the vise?
 
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2clicker

2clicker

Observer
GuyLeDuche said:
Just make sure the dial actually says the temps, not a 1-30 number scale (unless you have an IR gun or @Joel W. 's hi-tech meat thermometer lol)
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i think your best bet is a meat or candy thermometer. IR guns may not be very accurate when hitting shiny metal surface...? also i know those guns are only accurate at a specific distance. obviously some are more accurate than others, but i think with a meat thermometer you will know exactly what the temp is. guranteed.

@herbivore21... do you think the oil permeating the parchment has to do with temps? is it possible that maybe the temps can be lowered even more to reduce the chance of this happening? you may have to press longer...?
 
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kazz

kazz

Little Lebowski Urban Achiever
2clicker said:
for some reason i cannot find the larger brand name options, but there are quite a few on amazon that are 180-400F adjustable. HERE is one option. ill find more...

also i am considering mounting my heat plates to THESE magnetic jaw caps. my only issue now is where does the heat insulation go between the heaters and the vise?
Click to expand...


@2clicker , thanks for the links. I hadn't considered magnetic jaw caps. I found these nylon ones on amazon. Would they have better insulating properties?
 
kazz,
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kazz

kazz

Little Lebowski Urban Achiever
Dammit, slow down! :lol: Every time I think I have my plans finalized, someone comes up with something better, cheaper or more logical. Then I have to start my thought processes all over again!

Seriously though. drill holes and gluing magnets in a piece of hardwood does make perfect sense.


2clicker said:
ohhhhh good find! and i bet they would make a good insulator, but now im thinking. maybe i should make some magnetic hardwood jaws caps... hmmmmm i can get magnets at a nice price.
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EDIT:

I was looking on K&J Magnetics site (good site, used it before) and found the following on their FAQ page

22. Do I have to worry about temperature with neodymium magnets?
Yes. Neodymium Iron Boron magnets are sensitive to heat. If a magnet heated above its maximum operating temperature (176°F (80°C) for standard N grades) the magnet will permanently lose a fraction of its magnetic strength. If they are heated above their Curie temperature (590°F (310°C) for standard N grades), they will lose all of their magnetic properties. Different grades of neodymium different maximum operating and Curie temperatures. See our Neodymium Magnet Specifications Page for more details. We do stock a range of high temperature magnets, which you can see here.

They do offer high temp magnets, but size selection is limited. I'm thinking you might have to stack them to get the pull force you need.
 
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2clicker

2clicker

Observer
kazz said:
Dammit, slow down! :lol: Every time I think I have my plans finalized, someone comes up with something better, cheaper or more logical. Then I have to start my thought processes all over again!
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i know exactly what you mean. this place moves fast.

kazz said:
I was looking on K&J Magnetics site (good site, used it before) and found the following on their FAQ page

22. Do I have to worry about temperature with neodymium magnets?
Yes. Neodymium Iron Boron magnets are sensitive to heat. If a magnet heated above its maximum operating temperature (176°F (80°C) for standard N grades) the magnet will permanently lose a fraction of its magnetic strength. If they are heated above their Curie temperature (590°F (310°C) for standard N grades), they will lose all of their magnetic properties. Different grades of neodymium different maximum operating and Curie temperatures. See our Neodymium Magnet Specifications Page for more details. We do stock a range of high temperature magnets, which you can see here.

They do offer high temp magnets, but size selection is limited. I'm thinking you might have to stack them to get the pull force you need.
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interesting. the thicker the wooden jaw the less heat would reach the magnet... and considering your only heating the elements to around 180-230F id say your magnets should be pretty safe if say the jaw was 1/2" thick...? or maybe even thinner? depending on how insulating the material is. i wonder if some sort of plastic is ideal here. @Joel W. werent you looking into some sort of raw material as an insulator?

EDIT... search for Alnico magnets... HERE is another place... these magnets are good for up to 800F and up in some cases
 
2clicker,
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T

toolbox12

Well-Known Member
Joel W. said:
.
Dnail? Oil slick?
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That would be my guess. I'm pretty sure dnail and oilslick have been working on a project for the past couple months.

2clicker said:
i think your best bet is a meat or candy thermometer. IR guns may not be very accurate when hitting shiny metal surface...? also i know those guns are only accurate at a specific distance. obviously some are more accurate than others, but i think with a meat thermometer you will know exactly what the temp is. guranteed.

@herbivore21... do you think the oil permeating the parchment has to do with temps? is it possible that maybe the temps can be lowered even more to reduce the chance of this happening? you may have to press longer...?
Click to expand...
I'm not totally sure how pressure affects everything but from my understanding high pressure creates heat, so not only do we have to think about plate temp but also the effects that pressure has on everything. Have you seen the flubber rosin vid?
 
CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
Yes, I believe pressure does increase temperature due to molecular/atomic friction....you're forcing things into a smaller space, and since there is no empty space, particles on up, when compressed, typically get hotter when under pressure.
Examples:
Look at the early universe...small and HOT, beyond anything we could imagine HOT...everything tightly packed.
Look at a star...yes huge, but very hot because gravity and nuclear fusion are counter forces...gravity wants to crush everything (pressure for my point) and fusion releases energy which pushes out...if fusion won, the star would push everything out...if that happens, what happens to a gas when it expands?....it cools....but because gravity and fusion are doing this dance, guess what happens, HEAT gets produced from, wait for it, frictional forces of particles that are in this constant tug and pull.
The planet Jupiter and one of it's moons, Europa; because the mass of Jupiter is so large, it has a large gravitational force (the pull)...the orbital rotational force of Europa is a counter force to Jupiter's gravity (the tug); the theory is that liquid water can exist on an icy, frozen moon because of internal stresses on the moon generating heat, melting the ice, from the tug and pull described.

I may be way off here, but that's why I believe that higher pressures equal lower pressing temperatures. Yes I'm tired and yes I'm medicated.
 
F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
... guys... were not talking planetary gravity and vacuum pressure is exactly the opposite of forced pressure. vacuum is negative pressure environment.


I cant even really find a decent physic equation to demonstrate it but basically your trying to discuss btu/ft lbs (british thermal units per foot pound)

http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculatorUnitconverter.htm

but my point is... buy a cheap ass meat thermometer and then crush it in the jaws of a vice and see if its temp increases or stabilizes.

quickly your going to find that its not increasing nearly as much as you think.

I really dont think that you can compare the frictional heat generated by gravitational pull on a heavenly body to compressing a half gram of cannabis with a vise.

now lets compress this heavenly bodies cannabis so we can see how much pressure it can take.
images

derailed! :evil:
 
J

Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
Swaging (/ˈsweɪdʒ/, pronunciation note below) is a forging process in which the dimensions of an item are altered using dies into which the item is forced. Swaging is usually a cold working process; however, it is sometimes done as a hot working process.

:D
 
F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
Joel W. said:
Swaging (/ˈsweɪdʒ/, pronunciation note below) is a forging process in which the dimensions of an item are altered using dies into which the item is forced. Swaging is usually a cold working process; however, it is sometimes done as a hot working process.

:D
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shhhh you weren't supposed to answer until I realized my google fu was futile lol.

im familiar with swedging so I just wondered if it was a typo... nope.

although if you spell it with 2g's you get a whole new meaning lol.

swagging, the motion of which you do sexual actions. Swagging while dancing of doggy styling/dry humping a girl...

@Joel W. I want your job if thats the case lol.
 
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