Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

[Monsoon]

Not sure! I ordered mine July 21st. I think that was the day of or day after it was released. I hope I'm in the first batch

So it has only been about 2 months. Not too bad. I've waited longer for other things. The way I tolerate it is forget about it and buy other things in the meantime to keep me occupied lol.

Like the SiC nail and these Pocono Aluminum Frame Screens

I also got a LG portable A/C 8,000 btu unit so I can get my tent down to 62F to sift in

You and @toolbox12 should be in batch 1 then, as long.

I might try to setup a tent around my portable AC next summer for sifting and keeping cooler on hot days but since winter is coming I'll just need to open my door to bring down the temp and humidity.

 

[farscaper]

@BoogerMan , I press until the rosin stops flowing into the cooler parchment (20-60 seconds) where it is safe from the heat outside my jaws. The time is dependent on nug density and rosin flow. There is hardly anything in my second presses now and what's there, is always much darker and not really worth it for me.


@Been Vapin So that is no cure, straight off the plant? Looks awesome!

I do 2 presses when I can see some plant material has squished outside the jaws. thats why the second press looks more rapid. the stuff just needed to be forced of the edge of plant matter.

 

[killick]

Here's a wierd question, but would having one side of the two heaters slightly off square help with yield? It would work sort-of like a rolling pin, allowing more pressure to hit one side with slightly more force than the other side, allowing heated resin a path to flow towards.

I've not squooshed yet so this is all pure speculation, but it seems like it may help provide direction for the resin to escape, which may help with collection?

 

[BoogerMan]

it was 210°F the whole run and thats about a .5-.75g sample.

and it WAS delicious!

Thanks for the info! Didn't realize it was your video until now

So options are higher temp shorter press, lower temp longer press. Got it! I can't wait to start messing with this stuff

 

[farscaper]

Thanks for the info! Didn't realize it was your video until now

So options are higher temp shorter press, lower temp longer press. Got it! I can't wait to start messing with this stuff

it was just for my fc rosin family to enjoy.

the trick with long presses is you have to have an unheated area of parchment for the rosin to migrate to. that way once its out of the heat theres no need to worry about it and the rest can continue to travel out.

 

[Joel W.]

Here's a wierd question, but would having one side of the two heaters slightly off square help with yield?

I tried it with my first set and basically filed the top jaw away so the bottom came in contact first. Yes, it helped move the rosin in one direction but i was left with pucks that were paper thin on the bottom and thicker on the top and still packed with rosin. I like tight tolerances (jaws will grab one slice of parchment anywhere) all the way around the jaws so the pressure forces everything to the outside evenly in all directions for the shortest path of travel.

 

[killick]

@Joel W. Thanks! Another idea that is great in concept, but iffy in execution...

How about an inverted crucible arrangement, which is probably a tricky shape to heat evenly, but an easy shape to replicate with, say, a hydraulic bottle jack...


Edit - a couple of soldering guns for heaters and controllers perhaps? I wonder if their controls go low enough for our temp requirements?

 

[BoogerMan]

it was just for my fc rosin family to enjoy.

the trick with long presses is you have to have an unheated area of parchment for the rosin to migrate to. that way once its out of the heat theres no need to worry about it and the rest can continue to travel out.

I'm thinking that may be hard to accomplish with the bigger 5"x5" plates on the dnail press I have coming in.

So I'm guessing I will either have to do higher temp shorter presses or just press 5"x5" worth of bud at a time so it could flow over the side but idk if that much bud would even work and that much bud doesn't sound ideal for me anyways hmmm

 

[Joel W.]

a couple of soldering guns for heaters and controllers perhaps? I wonder if their controls go low enough for our temp requirements?

I use 2 of these adjustable soldering irons., One for each jaw. No controller needed if you size your jaws correctly.

 

[farscaper]

I'm thinking that may be hard to accomplish with the bigger 5"x5" plates on the dnail press I have coming in.

So I'm guessing I will either have to do higher temp shorter presses or just press 5"x5" worth of bud at a time so it could flow over the side but idk if that much bud would even work and that much bud doesn't sound ideal for me anyways hmmm

when I was using the larger 6x6 plates of the gecko press I tried folding the parchment like a package or envelope with one end opened and sticking out but the rosin tended to seep into the folds rather than running out like I desired.

with the sublimation press type setup I found that small loads helped... but defeated the purpose of a 600watt heater... but best efforts came from small loads, short presses and pre compression with finger broke up bits in some type of compression press. I used a diy hammer press.

 

[CrazyDiamond]

Ok...need some tech help here...I'm using @Been Vapin style press, so the plates are parallel to the ground, opposite the way a vice is. Being that the jaws swivel on mine, they very often don't line up...now my plates are from a 2 inch straightener, presses yield pretty good. However, being that the jaws are like they are, the nugs move inside the parchment, so sometimes things are off center. The sucky thing about my setup is that the coolest it goes is 300F, IR gun says surface of plates are between 265-275 if I remember right.
Is there a technique to placing the parchment?
Should I make a "packet" out of it by folding?
How long should I be pressing for?
I've been doing 10 second presses, sometimes a second press as well.
I'm thinking of building a new one because I don't think the epoxy I used is the right kind (I always smell it after it's heated and there's always "sticky" spots)....should I build the same style? Should I drop down to 1 inch plates?

 

[NorVape]

I've had a couple weeks of from rosin, and did a dab yesterday.

Man, I love rosin.

 

[Joel W.]

@CrazyDiamond . I'd look for a cheap vise and glue heaters to the jaws like farscaper's setup. More than enough pressure and it will avoid plate mis alignment issues.

I think more pressure can be had with 1" plates than 2".

I'd also guess 1" plates might hold up to higher pressures than 2" plates.. I am guessing though.

Edit: I have used the thicker aluminum Remington plates with that low temp eBay iron board that I like, but it takes little longer to heat up. Best of both!
.

 

[farscaper]

Ok...need some tech help here...I'm using @Been Vapin style press, so the plates are parallel to the ground, opposite the way a vice is. Being that the jaws swivel on mine, they very often don't line up...now my plates are from a 2 inch straightener, presses yield pretty good. However, being that the jaws are like they are, the nugs move inside the parchment, so sometimes things are off center. The sucky thing about my setup is that the coolest it goes is 300F, IR gun says surface of plates are between 265-275 if I remember right.
Is there a technique to placing the parchment?
Should I make a "packet" out of it by folding?
How long should I be pressing for?
I've been doing 10 second presses, sometimes a second press as well.
I'm thinking of building a new one because I don't think the epoxy I used is the right kind (I always smell it after it's heated and there's always "sticky" spots)....should I build the same style? Should I drop down to 1 inch plates?

make sure to use real JB Weld. I used a 2part. its rates ro take heat. ive used it to fix mufflers and attach hair irons to vise jaws. now it does takeva solid 24hrs to fully cure but you can clamp your vise down tight and kick the heat on for a bit let it warm up and turn it off. do that a few times and it will accelerate the cure... but dont expect it to becfully cured for at least 24hrs.

if you go vise setup just make sure to find a hair iron that can get down to 200 at least. you can also buffer the heat with extra parchment.

edit: I was going to invest some more time and r&d into my vice press and see if anyone wanted a hand getting one without all the work. if thats the case ill have to clear it with the top mod, but its something ive been considering in my boredom... a guys gotta have something to do right?

 

[kazz]

if you go vise setup just make sure to find a hair iron that can get down to 200 at least. you can also buffer the heat with extra parchment.

Does anyone have a hair iron that they would recommend that will get down to 200? I'm leaning in the direction of using a vise like has been described.

 

[CrazyDiamond]

I used JB weld for the parts that needed bonding together, however, I used regular epoxy to fill the backs of the heating plates for strength. I know now that there really is a high temp epoxy being that I saw it at a different hardware store and was labeled as such. I thought the epoxy I used was fine since it said on the package what the temp thresholds were. Maybe I didn't mix well enough...who knows...next time I will get what says high temp and use it along with the JB weld.

And you guys are saying vice over arbor press as well?

If vise, what size? 3", 4", 5", 6"?

Will do on the smaller plates this...1 inch for sure.

 

[shark sandwich]

@CrazyDiamond

JB Weld is made to bond metals and is rated for 500F continuous. I'd use JB Weld exclusively- it's the best tool for the job.

I don't know if anyone has tried both an arbor press and a vise to compare, but both work well. Most people are just using what's available to them. If you don't have an appropriate tool already, check your local craigslist tools section, there are usually great deals on nice old presses and vises.


@kazz

I forget who originally recommended them, but you want the Loof straighteners, they go down to 122F.

 

[CrazyDiamond]

Ok, nothing on craigslist in my area. I'm thinking the 1 ton arbor press from harbor freight might be the way to go...$40...decent vices are more than that...what do you all think?

 

[kazz]

@kazz

I forget who originally recommended them, but you want the Loof straighteners, they go down to 122F.

Thanks! I'll look for that model.

Ok, nothing on craigslist in my area. I'm thinking the 1 ton arbor press from harbor freight might be the way to go...$40...decent vices are more than that...what do you all think?

I think that will be a fine setup. I was looking at the arbor press myself until I realized the clamping jaws on my vise are removable. I can secure heating plates to some metal bars, drill some holes, and bolt them to the vise. Then switch back to "tool mode" when needed.

 

[tepictoton]

Can anyone direct me in the right direction to find the screens used for pressing hash? I am based in Europe and have no idea where to look for them...

 

[herbivore21]

Can anyone direct me in the right direction to find the screens used for pressing hash? I am based in Europe and have no idea where to look for them...

Use musclin cloth my friend It's everywhere, it's cheap, it's solvent safe (so long as 100% cotton) and thus washable/reusable Also serves as a finer screen than the 25u screens many are using

By the way, I'll have slick wrap to test within the next 24 hours or so, will give my thoughts on this vs slick sheet as soon as possible

EDIT:

Well speak of the devil, it's here already and I've done my first squish to try it out!

Ok, first things first - this is not PTFE on foil, this is parchment coated in platinum cured silicone with no quilon etc.

One thing I've noticed which I've noticed with parchment in the past (I'll provide pics to demonstrate what I mean):

When you squish, there are tiny spatters underneath the hash/bud puck that absorb into the silicone/parchment. You can tell these spatters by noting dark stains which are not able to be retrieved off of the parchment surface. IMO, this is a danger sign. Do not use parchment more than once. Ever. I am quite concerned about parchment for collection and with the knowledge that there is NO WAY to squish bud using PTFE without horribly deforming it beyond safety for reuse, we need a new solution for bud squishing.

For hash squishing, I recommend teflon only. It may not biodegrade, but it sure beats the possibility of silicone offgas/degradation byproducts (featuring such distinguished constituents as ammonia) in your lungs.

 

[NorVape]

I'm using musclin, and I'm pressing euro hash. Works great

 

[toolbox12]

When you squish, there are tiny spatters underneath the hash/bud puck that absorb into the silicone/parchment. You can tell these spatters by noting dark stains which are not able to be retrieved off of the parchment surface. IMO, this is a danger sign. Do not use parchment more than once. Ever. I am quite concerned about parchment for collection and with the knowledge that there is NO WAY to squish bud using PTFE without horribly deforming it beyond safety for reuse, we need a new solution for bud squishing.

For hash squishing, I recommend teflon only. It may not biodegrade, but it sure beats the possibility of silicone offgas/degradation byproducts (featuring such distinguished constituents as ammonia) in your lungs.

Was watching hash church this weekend and this was a topic of conversation. I've stopped pressing with parchment and also ordered some slick wrap but honestly I'm just not sure about that either.

 

[herbivore21]

Was watching hash church this weekend and this was a topic of conversation. I've stopped pressing with parchment and also ordered some slick wrap but honestly I'm just not sure about that either.

Yup I caught that conversation too, and had already expressed my concerns about silicone coatings on parchment. I would recommend slick sheet over slick wrap. PTFE is excellent and reusable if you are squishing hash, rather than buds. However I would at this stage recommend slick wrap for buds, single use only. Slick sheet gets mangled/deformed when you squish bud in it.

I know for a fact that there is a new product in the works purpose made for squishing/collecting rosin in this way, once it is released, I'll be sure to point you guys all to it

EDIT: Whoa, ok so this slick wrap sure does make for much easier squishing of nugs. I just got an actual worthwhile squish out of a single nug using slick wrap. This smaller than usual nug just squished 4 or 5 good dabs of clear amazing golden sap! Can't dab test yet but this stuff is a clear winner for nug squishing - again single use only of course!

 

[CrazyDiamond]

@herbivore21 I missed that...so the Reynold's brand is no go or is it cool? Can you give me a brief snippet of why we shouldn't use parchment for rosintech?

I just might go arbor press instead of vice so that I might be able to use these as insulators between heat plates and tool.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phenolic-ep...13-Lot-of-2-/291392125532?hash=item43d852fa5c
Yes they are very thick, too thick for a vise and I wouldn't know how to cut them (have heard it's extremely dusty when cutting this stuff) but they would fit an arbor press easily I would think. The main description says G10, G11, G13, but in the body it's a lot of two blocks, G11, high temp, high pressure. There is a question asked there about temperature rating and he says 265F...the G11 according to MILSPEC is good over 300F...am I wrong on this?

And the G11 is very expensive so this seems like a great deal...what do you all think?