Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

J

Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
I would like to see you're press setup sometime @farscaper.. Also, to everyone here who tediously scrapes bulk rosin I salute you! That's some hard work right there!!! Oil slicks on order...

I found a few of my cleaner parchment papers sitting around and had some sweet purple nepal* here, and thought I might as well see what happens when parchment paper gets ran through the heated roller press?? I gotta figure out regulated heat still but this looked promising.

Can you guess which direction it went through the rollers? I only ran about a gram and had better luck stacking my pucks for second press. I got enough for 2 big dabs and the closest thing I can compare it too is the holywater I tried yesterday. This was with a new dab stick and a fresh nail so there should not have been any cross flavorings unless it's my dirty glass. Taisted awesome!!

EDIT: It's my glass. It tastes like that holy water. Wow that is strong stuff!!

24pjr5w.jpg

One more. lower temps
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F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
Joel W. said:
I would like to see you're press setup sometime @farscaper.. Also, to everyone here who tediously scrapes bulk rosin I salute you! That's some hard work right there!!! Oil slicks on order...

I found a few of my cleaner parchment papers sitting around and had some sweet purple nurple here, and thought I might as well see what happens when parchment paper gets ran through the heated roller press?? I gotta figure out regulated heat still but this looked promising.

Can you guess which direction it went through the rollers? I only ran about a gram and had better luck stacking my pucks for second press. I got enough for 2 big dabs and the closest thing I can compare it too is the holywater I tried yesterday. This was with a new dab stick and a fresh nail so there should not have been any cross flavorings unless it's my dirty glass. Taisted awesome!!

EDIT: It's my glass. It tastes like that holy water. Wow that is strong stuff!!

24pjr5w.jpg
Click to expand...
warning this image will self destruct.
11142398_798084576940522_2010362375_n.jpg


low and slow
10986353_471153239699828_291935343_n.jpg
 
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Jared

Jared

Cannabis Enthusiast
Burken said:
Great thread guys!
Has anyone figured out a way to do this using traditional hash?
Click to expand...
Some people have been pressing it without a screen but anytime I've tried to press even the hardest hash without a screen I get a lot of particulate in the rosin. I've been using a 25 micron pressing/drying screen with hash of any type and it's been working fine.
 
NorVape

NorVape

Vape Rictim
@Burken I'm on it, but so far alle the plant matter and the oil and everything is just smashed together. Almost like repressing the hash. But I'm trying to find some cheesecloth/muslin to see if it'll work as a screen while pressing, with out absorbing all the oils.

The original rosin tech, as posted by Comphashon on ICMag, works amazingly well with traditional hashes, but it's too time consuming.
 
F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
NorVape said:
That's a good one, @farscaper :nod:

Hey, @herbivore21 aka my favorite material safety consultant, would nylon be a safe option here?
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he has already voiced concern about it. I also share reservations but pressing screens and tea bags are what ive seen used most.

I have noticed that alot of people pressing hash are wadding the screen into a ball when pressing. this is not how I used the stainless steel screen. I was pressing buds not hash.

I really think someone here needs to experiment with traditional hash and stainless steel screens unfortunately it cannot be me I do not have access to that.
 
CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
@farscaper so you are using SS screens when pressing? I have the 10 micron and 50 micron from 316 that I used for the qwiso filtering...could I use one of those cut to size?
 
CrazyDiamond,
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F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
CrazyDiamond said:
@farscaper so you are using SS screens when pressing? I have the 10 micron and 50 micron from 316 that I used for the qwiso filtering...could I use one of those cut to size?
Click to expand...
I havnt had any success trying to use ss screens for buds, although I will admit I havnt tried again recently with the dabsmasher. I may think on it and try some on flowers again next go round.
 
Bouldorado

Bouldorado

Well-Known Member
I recommend putting a metal shim between the plates of the hair iron. Less than half the normal area so you can put down a lot of pressure. I used a piece of an aluminum road sign that I sanded down . wish I did this sooner- it seems to improve yield more than any of the recent mods I've done to the press.

u5GnLQN.jpg


some recent presses...
1K5PkeI.jpg

Super lemon haze
zm2Gtkj.jpg

Gorilla glue
9tYluBu.jpg


and a pic from the sesh w/ @Silver420Surfer

n6VDbTT.jpg
 
F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
Bouldorado said:
I recommend putting a metal shim between the plates of the hair iron. Less than half the normal area so you can put down a lot of pressure. I used a piece of an aluminum road sign that I sanded down . wish I did this sooner- it seems to improve yield more than any of the recent mods I've done to the press.

u5GnLQN.jpg


some recent presses...
1K5PkeI.jpg

Super lemon haze
zm2Gtkj.jpg

Gorilla glue
9tYluBu.jpg


and a pic from the sesh w/ @Silver420Surfer

n6VDbTT.jpg
Click to expand...

amazing clarity! very nice indeed!

ironically ive been putting an aluminum drawing triangle in my press as well to create more pressure... this would probably be unnecessary if I added another couple washers.

what I noticed when I broke the hair irons that I was using was that you end up putting alot more force on the hot irons housing and the housing sort of acts like a shock absorber... so half the effort goes into squishing the iron enough to squish the bud. so this may help remove that small seperation that alot of hair irons have.
 
Bouldorado

Bouldorado

Well-Known Member
yeah this iron has held up surprisingly well so far considering my usage. but since I've added the shim I've noticed the top plate is trying to push it's way out of the shell. probably on it's last legs :rip:

once it dies I want to upgrade to either a t shirt press or modified arbor press (use the heating plates from a hair iron or similar)
 
Bouldorado

Bouldorado

Well-Known Member
CrazyDiamond said:
Why not try and take the iron apart to remove the housing so all you have left are the heating plates and electronics?
Click to expand...

ya that's exactly what I want to do with an arbor press. I was going to do it with my current press but I didn't think it was worth the effort to fabricate a heat resistant mount. however now that rosin has shown its merits I'm gonna sink a bit more time/money into the tek
 
F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
I did some at 245f @20 seconds and made budder rosin. weirdest thing... same color as the other rosin I've gotten from the same strain, but this time it buddered. I hypothesize that the prolonged exposure to heat caused the buddering... so now I got this budder rosin... tastes great, little harsh from waxes so im using itvwith a highly diffused rig to scrub those waxes out!
 
Bouldorado

Bouldorado

Well-Known Member
Damn wish my hair iron would go lower temp. I think an upgrade is gonna happen sooner than later. checking out some harbor freight arbor presses later today and different irons...

Pressed some well-cured grape ape last night and got the most shattery rosin yet. 4s @ 310f.
uMYd6vj.jpg
 
NorVape

NorVape

Vape Rictim
My hair straightener (a sentence I never thought I'll write) only goes as low as 150c (guys, could you please get on board with the vastly superior metric system already), and I too would also like to get something that could go low and slow.
 
F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
NorVape said:
My hair straightener (a sentence I never thought I'll write) only goes as low as 150c (guys, could you please get on board with the vastly superior metric system already), and I too would also like to get something that could go low and slow.
Click to expand...
so your bottom line is
150 °C (Celsius)
302°F (Fahrenheit)
423°K (Kelvin)
762°R (Rankine)

technically neither celaius or fahrenheit are the most accurate... let us all read in Rankine!
:evil:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/temperature-d_291.html

edit: so, whos gonna be the first to hook a pid controller to a hair iron?
 
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