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The first 2 I bought took 2 weeks, this 3rd back up has taken longer due to a huge explosion in china, Dnail is having the same issues with parts.
Fill that sucker with epoxy and try it in a cheap basic vise! Squish on!
Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless
- Thread starter darkrom
- Start date
The first 2 I bought took 2 weeks, this 3rd back up has taken longer due to a huge explosion in china, Dnail is having the same issues with parts.
Fill that sucker with epoxy and try it in a cheap basic vise! Squish on!
Been Vapin
Fringe Class
Bro, on the ends of the clamp, the part where the two pivoting ends are, do you have additional metal plate there to spread the force of the load on the heating plates so it's not focused on a very small area?
Are you using a new c-clamp every time you modify your design?
Oh and new parts list is needed, hehe
From what I gather, this is what I'm looking at:
10" Wooden Hand Screw Clamp for stability
11" Milwaukee C-Clamp pliers
JB Weld
High temp epoxy for the backside of the heating plates for more strength
Small 1/2 inch to inch metal or pvc tube and a dowel to make pucks with
What I'm thinking of doing is to jb weld some small metal plates to the ends of the c-clamp pliers and drill two holes in each plate. I will then figure out a way (with a jig or just good measurements) to sort of cast two bolts in the epoxy, not touching the heating surface but in the body of the epoxy, sticking up to mount to the plates that will be jb welded to the pliers. That way, if the heating plates fail, I can just unbolt them and put new heating plates on without trashing the rest of the unit.
What do you think?
I just JB Weld Original the plates directly to the pivoting plate. JB weld original is safe up to 550*F after 24 hour cure. JB weld is a high temp epoxy. New C Clamp every time. No longer have the first one in my possession. JB weld can be burnt off, scraped off, sanded, etc. Sounds like a good plan.
10 inch hand screw clamp
11 in. Torque Lock Locking C-Clamp with Swivel Jaws
JB weld orginal
Hacksaw or Dremel
Flathead screw driver
Electrical tape
Super glue or Velcro or zip ties
Sandpaper or file
Needle nose pliers
The max temp this thing is hitting now is 230*F after about an
hour heat up. That is good and bad news. Temp is a lil low for flowers, but it presses real good anyways. This thing should be perfect for pressing bubble, dry sift, scissor, finger, etc.
First press is on the left press next to 2nd press done which was done at 270-290*F in a Hart 4 inch c clamp. The nug was pretty small maybe .25g. First press got most of it.
Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Of?? Be dirty for us and open one of those up and take some picsMorning rosin squirts.
some cherry bomb and some lavender... I mixed the buds in precompact so they were all mixed pucks. im stoned as fuck off it so I cant tell if I want to melt into the chair or dance a jig...Of?? Be dirty for us and open one of those up and take some pics
the most photogenic imo:
I dont collect it all up I just keep it sealed in its parchment until consumption.
A 1 ton press it will destroy a hair straightener, no problem. If you remove the heating plates and use those in the press, it would probably destroy them almost as quickly. Also, there are no straighteners capable of holding the temperatures you'll want to use in the press- which are as low as 160F.
Your best bet is the plates. You'll need an "ove glove" and an ir thermometer too. If you've never used an arbor press before, know it will need to be very well secured before you can use it.
what will need to be secure ? the plates? i was thinking of using jb welding to secure the plates onto the arbor press? thought on this?
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I just plunk bits of buds in I dont grind them. no stems.
The press itself will need to be secured. It will have holes in the base so you can bolt it down, but you can get away with clamping it to a counter or table- you'll need a sturdy surface either way. You'll generate a lot of torque when you throw your weight on the end of the lever to get all the goodness out- I almost broke my workbench.
If you jb weld the plates in place you'll have a tough time heating them, unless you're meaning straightener heat plates. The common practice with metal plates is to use the 'ove glove to move the plates from your heater to the press. Use the glove to lift the top plate to check temperature, and to insert your parchment when the temperature is right.
. Mine can run down to 122f and hold that temp.
+ or - say 10f
I was not aware! I've been looking for a straightener that goes that low. Do you have a link or name I can use to find them?
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This eBay one is the only one I have found capable of low temps.. Below 300f anyways.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/LOOF-Professi...lar-US-Plug-/230897484679?txnId=1215884960013
Edit, It does not vibrate and no mention of LOOF brand but I like it.
Edit 2. I filled a syringe with 2500 psi epoxy and filled up the holes and I didn't have to take it apart. This does increase the time it takes to warm up though but not much. I use a vise.
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Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
If pics are helpful I can try to do that, I break off pieces of bud from the bottom of the nugs up. I try not to go bigger than the size of a US quarter (24.26mm diameter), I am not upset when they turn out a little smaller than that though. I put it in between parchment and press down on the nug between my fingers to flatten it and then open up and see if any little tiny particles fell off while finger pressing (don't want those in the end-material!). Then center and press away. I forget who, but somebody has an actual press setup they use and I remember them liking it. I find the finger pressing sufficient for me.
CrazyDiamond
HAL is a StarChild
Or you can get the plates I posted before and hook them to a PID...you could easily reinforce what I showed...I would do it but I don't know if I need anything else but the plates and PIDs?
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
You could just throw in an inline AC lamp dimmer to some ac powered heat plates and be done with it
No need for programming a PID, just turn the nob up to the temp you want. IMO we should verify temps for stuff like this with an external thermometer anyway to ensure that we are not gonna cook out any good stuff
@CrazyDiamond - I recommended plain plates because @LittleM17 asked what was cheapest and best to use with an arbor press.
You're right that heated plates are definitely the best option- I recommended plain plates on the "cheap" criteria alone. Heated plates would be the best to use, but they aren't necessary, and are expensive.
I think a beginning arbor presser could go either way and do well for themselves, it just depends on their budget.
Edit: I thought you were referring to the cylindrical press blocks with embedded heaters that were posted earlier in the thread. I realized after posting you were referring to a diy solution, which is a great option for anyone capable. You'll still need to start with plain plates, and then figure out how to best incorporate a heating element.
You're right that heated plates are definitely the best option- I recommended plain plates on the "cheap" criteria alone. Heated plates would be the best to use, but they aren't necessary, and are expensive.
I think a beginning arbor presser could go either way and do well for themselves, it just depends on their budget.
Edit: I thought you were referring to the cylindrical press blocks with embedded heaters that were posted earlier in the thread. I realized after posting you were referring to a diy solution, which is a great option for anyone capable. You'll still need to start with plain plates, and then figure out how to best incorporate a heating element.
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Monsoon
Well-Known Member
This is a new Rosin Press that's coming out soon.
https://instagram.com/gold_ash/
Same user is also selling custom 37 micron sewn pouches for pressing through their IG.
https://instagram.com/gold_ash/
Same user is also selling custom 37 micron sewn pouches for pressing through their IG.
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Monsoon
Well-Known Member
I guess that's a good thing?
With the way it's designed, pressure is applied to a pair of rails on either side of the middle gap and get 300 PSI each. I think he was able to do 7-10g of hash per rail which seems pretty good. I haven't seen a mention of pricing anywhere but hopefully it won't be too expensive.
Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
I love the auto presses, that one actually looks nice too! Still with the hair iron and $3 Harbor Freight clamp. Still getting great results. Here's some pics of the Headband and more rosin. I'm saving a fair bit of this to vape, it's fantastic stuff.
Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Are you catching anything other than particulates with that micron?Here is a chunk I pressed through a 15u SS screen at 130f.
