Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

matthend

Well-Known Member
So I replaced my broken c-clamp with an dewault 600lb trigger clamp. First press was very underwhelming, then i remembered to take the rubber feet off the clamps. Following presses were much better, but still on the fence whether the old way was more productive. Does anyone else have any experience with both and an opinion?
 
matthend,

lazylathe

Almost there...
I have just started to press my own rosin!
For now i am just using a hair straightener that i have disassembled and it is mounted to two wooden blocks secured in my bench vice.
My technique is to squish the buds down with my fingers and then load into parchment paper bags.
These are then loaded into the straightener and the vice is closed very tightly. I have already cracked the backing plates... The important parts are still good!
I then turn on the straightener on it's lowest setting and listen... I wait till i just start to heat the sizzle start and then turn it off and wait... I will repeat this a few times and also tighten the vice more if possible.
I will then fold the chip in half and press again.
The final product is a clear yellow that can be anywhere from a brittle to a budder type of consistency!
Most of it is just a beautiful soft, extremely sticky goo!

The flavor i am getting is insane and the effects are crazy strong!

I am now thinking about building a hydraulic press and getting some heated plates...
This is an evolution for me!
 

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
We have an entire Willy Wonka room full of cool things we haven't revealed, and likely won't ever. Fep and ptfe containers are among them...until there's a market for a hundred dollar slick stack.

Two years ago there was no mass awareness or market for terpene preservation...so never say never.
I see the expense of using some materials, and the mass of the material needed to perform a task like seal the lip on a slick stack.

In the same way that some of these retail packages are using plastic or "whatever" kind of containers with a silicone insert, I wonder if there's a way to use a small amount of an inexpensive material like FEP or PTFE for release as a liner, inside of a less-costly material like plastic or silicone.
 
SamuraiSam,
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SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
Too late to edit but I meant to say "expensive" material like FEP or PTFE, inside the less-costly material like plastic or silicone. Whoops.. Im the worst at proofing my posts and needing to edit afterwards these days.
 
SamuraiSam,

PPN

Volute of Vapor
Pressed some moroccan kief, 0.8g in a ptfe filter in a oil slick sheet (ptfe), used the "burrito" tech:
a ton of concentrate, a lot darker than from flowers, I didn't weight the yield but i think it's close of 45%.

I used a 110°C setting and a 20s squishing time, I pressed the puck 2 times.

My issue is the final product is like glass shatter, very difficult to collect and more difficult to use except where the slab is thicker .

The remaining hasch is still pretty powerfull so I expect a vice setup can extract more...or higher heat....or longer press....? Do you use the same temp to extract from kief/hasch than for flowers?
 

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
Pressed some moroccan kief, 0.8g in a ptfe filter in a oil slick sheet (ptfe), used the "burrito" tech:
a ton of concentrate, a lot darker than from flowers, I didn't weight the yield but i think it's close of 45%.

I used a 110°C setting and a 20s squishing time, I pressed the puck 2 times.

My issue is the final product is like glass shatter, very difficult to collect and more difficult to use except where the slab is thicker .

The remaining hasch is still pretty powerfull so I expect a vice setup can extract more...or higher heat....or longer press....? Do you use the same temp to extract from kief/hasch than for flowers?
I use less heat for kief and hash than I do for flower.
 

PPN

Volute of Vapor
And do you get a shattery final product?

All in all, I can't go lower than 100°C.
 
PPN,

peterpiper

(peter-ex-piper)
I press leb at 150 for a slow 15 count
I use hair straightners and a quick release clamp
I get around 45%
If it's shattering, mine does if cold, then I heat up between my hands or hold over a cup of tea
I find it shatters more at 130 (I can't go lower) then it does at 150, I assume lower temp has more thc/cbd ratio, I chuck my chips when finished, can't see there being much left at all
 
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Caelar900

Well-Known Member
I have actually found that I tend to get more shatter results when using higher temps >240. While it also tends to be strain dependent I never get shatter <180.
 
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Caelar900,
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matthend

Well-Known Member
after a weekend of playing with the slick paper, I have some thoughts. It is nice and thick and extremely slick on the shiny side. This is a positive and a negative in my scenario. It is by far the best for collection that I have used, makes even the sappiest rosin a breeze to collect. This slickness also makes the pucks tend to slide when pressing, which has resulted in a lot of failed presses with a chunk of the puck sticking out of the plates. :bang::bang: I am not sure if the slickness is the culprit, but it also seems to make the pucks spread out much more when they do remain centered resulting in a lot more particulate in the rosin. I am going to press some in the old faithful parchment (which now feels like tissue paper in comparison) and will see if i can post some comparisons

ok, did a squish of a similar nug on each paper and this why i am switching back to parchment...
QADSLG3.jpg
 
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Oilslick

Oil Slick
Manufacturer
after a weekend of playing with the slick paper, I have some thoughts. It is nice and thick and extremely slick on the shiny side. This is a positive and a negative in my scenario. It is by far the best for collection that I have used, makes even the sappiest rosin a breeze to collect. This slickness also makes the pucks tend to slide when pressing, which has resulted in a lot of failed presses with a chunk of the puck sticking out of the plates. :bang::bang: I am not sure if the slickness is the culprit, but it also seems to make the pucks spread out much more when they do remain centered resulting in a lot more particulate in the rosin. I am going to press some in the old faithful parchment (which now feels like tissue paper in comparison) and will see if i can post some comparisons

ok, did a squish of a similar nug on each paper and this why i am switching back to parchment...
QADSLG3.jpg

Prepress. Will fix your issue
 

matthend

Well-Known Member
i have been prepressing between my thumb and first knuckle without issue leading up to this. I only press .5 at a time if that, and am able to get the nug to a few mm thick this way. Should I go all out and flatten as much as I physically can prior to the actual press then? Hell, should I clamp them cold to flatten them out completely?
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
after a weekend of playing with the slick paper, I have some thoughts. It is nice and thick and extremely slick on the shiny side. This is a positive and a negative in my scenario. It is by far the best for collection that I have used, makes even the sappiest rosin a breeze to collect. This slickness also makes the pucks tend to slide when pressing, which has resulted in a lot of failed presses with a chunk of the puck sticking out of the plates. :bang::bang: I am not sure if the slickness is the culprit, but it also seems to make the pucks spread out much more when they do remain centered resulting in a lot more particulate in the rosin. I am going to press some in the old faithful parchment (which now feels like tissue paper in comparison) and will see if i can post some comparisons

ok, did a squish of a similar nug on each paper and this why i am switching back to parchment...
QADSLG3.jpg
Bro you could also consider learning a folding tek that keeps your puck inside the plates ;) Pre-press is not the only way to resolve this issue :)
 

PPN

Volute of Vapor
To pre-press my puck I use a glass candle stand properly cleaned and a wine cork. It makes pucks between 0.8g to 1.5g. I put them on my Oil slick sheet (ptfe) and roll it like a "crêpe" (or a Fajita if you prefer) and fold one end in the press, the other stay open for the flow.

Actually I'm sticking with moroccan kief squishes! One of my last attempt was exceptonnal, 55% yield at least, still very shattery but since i'm better to lead the flow the slab is thicker and easier to take off.

The kief might to be very good cause even after this sort of press I can throw it in my Log Wong and still get a lot of nice cloudys and tastys hits. And the rosin I get from is a lot more powerfull than from flowers but not so rich in taste. 2 hits in my Evolve/Cerum/whatever else and I'm done!
 

matthend

Well-Known Member
Bro you could also consider learning a folding tek that keeps your puck inside the plates ;) Pre-press is not the only way to resolve this issue :)


I am all ears, if you could be so kind as to enlighten me. Are you referring to the dodgy paper plane tek that you posted way back when? I assume that would not have an effect on the way a nug spreads out so much more in the slick paper as opposed to parchment, so I would have to account for that size in the folding to avoid blowing out the sides. Would a better prepress make any difference to the end size of the puck? I really want to love this paper, and have a feeling i will once i am using it correctly
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
I've got some flower that I've cured for years (yes, plural) and rosined for the first time in a few months. There are new flavors that I have never experienced before coming out of this material. I strongly prefer cured resin for flavor vs live resin. I just wish that getting it to this stage wasn't such a long process :myday:

We need to get somebody working on rapid curing gizmos. :D


I am all ears, if you could be so kind as to enlighten me. Are you referring to the dodgy paper plane tek that you posted way back when? I assume that would not have an effect on the way a nug spreads out so much more in the slick paper as opposed to parchment, so I would have to account for that size in the folding to avoid blowing out the sides. Would a better prepress make any difference to the end size of the puck? I really want to love this paper, and have a feeling i will once i am using it correctly
Actually, yes that will work. There are two things you need to do:

1. measure the average size of your pucks - weigh the nug, get an approximate surface area of the puck after being squished.

2. Fold your rosin parchment 'package' so that when together, the sides cannot possible stick out of the press plates. If the entire parchment cannot get out of the plates, you don't miss the squish :D

Be sure that the size of folded parchment package meets the width requirements to not have your nug squishing through the sides of the parchment (if the puck gets too wide, this can happen).

Pre-press can also help, but be sure not to be tempted to increase the amount of flower you use because pre-pressing lets you. That will mean more nugs squishing out of the plates, not less.
 

MileHighLife

Blower of glass, grower of grass
I am all ears, if you could be so kind as to enlighten me. Are you referring to the dodgy paper plane tek that you posted way back when? I assume that would not have an effect on the way a nug spreads out so much more in the slick paper as opposed to parchment, so I would have to account for that size in the folding to avoid blowing out the sides. Would a better prepress make any difference to the end size of the puck? I really want to love this paper, and have a feeling i will once i am using it correctly
A better pre-press will result in a thinner, more compact and unison puck. You can choose whatever size pre-press mold you'd like or experiment with a few sizes by using a small piece of pvc pipe of whatever size you prefer and a dowel rod that fits inside the pvc. Set the pvc on a piece of parchment with one of the open ends facing up, put your bud material in then compact with the dowel rod ... cheap and effective.

Flower yields differently than hash (obviously) and ime using a folded paper tek doesn't work very well with flower. If you do use one of the folded paper teks without a pre-press mold you'll probably run into the same issue but your weed will either push out the one direction it can or you'll end up with a blowout as you stated. I prefer to let the rosin run out of all sides of the pre-pressed puck (or brick in my case). The main goal here is to get the rosin to flow out of the heat zone in as little time as possible and forcing it to flow out of only one end slows this process.
 
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matthend

Well-Known Member
I agree with both of the above posts. My issue is the extreme difference in puck diameter between the two papers post squish. I have since gone back to the parchment, at least for my daily usage until the roll runs out. This gives me a much more controlled puck size and far less contaminant in the end result. I would LOVE to hear any one else's experience with this.
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
@matthend Have you tried the Oil Slick Wrap ? Like it tons better than the Reynolds I was using. Been using it for squishing and storage. If you ever get a chance to try the Oil Slick Clear & Paper @herbivore21, would love to hear your opinions on all three for squishing.
Will do as soon as the opportunity presents itself man, I'm quite interested myself :D
 

matthend

Well-Known Member
@Morty I havent yet, no. I did try Reynolds brand back when I first started out with Rosin, but I prefer the generic Meijer brand I use now by a large margin over that. @herbivore21 I am happy to send you some of this slick paper if you like...

On another note, I got this conair straightener to test with , as it has the ability to set at lower temps than the Remington I have been using for over a year. One squish and a snap crackle & pop later, I am back to the Remington. The housing on this thing has no chance against any kind of pressure. Just an FYI for anyone looking to start out.
 

lazylathe

Almost there...
@matthend

I disassembled my straightener so I just have the internal parts. I mounted the heaters to blocks of wood that fit in my bench vise for super easy pressure application!

I also turn mine on with the plates together and then turn off and separate the plates to allow them to cool for a bit before introducing the material and pressure.
It's quite hit and miss but I can press anything from a crumble like extract to an oily based one, depending on temps.

Works really well but I think a press and plates would be much better.
 
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