Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

Doobii

Doobii

Member
ictus said:
Hey guys,
I've been messin around with this using scraps I found around the garage. Top piece of my flower grinder pressed up against a random piece of flat cylinder. Heated up both on a stove top until ~280 and then used some magnets embedded in the Irwin clamps to secure them to the clamp once up to temp.

I got 14% last time doing this but unfortunately warped my grinder top to the point it barely sprins now (doh!) so I have decided to try to order some better 'plates'.

Sadly that was before I found this thread (been away from FC for a while) so I didn't even know what to call the 'plates' I was looking for so I ended up just search for round bar steel stock. Here is what I ended up ordering (2x):

2.5" 1018 Cold Finish Mild Steel Round Bar
0.50 inches

I just got them in and I'm not sure why I was expecting different but they aren't exactly machined equality. The faces seem flat but they are out of planar by a little bit (maybe 1mm?)

Is being out of parallel going to make these useless without painstakingly lapping them flat somehow?
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It can cause a lift in the paper possibly which can restrict oil flow but only minorly. As long as that bud is getting paper thin with heat applied. The oil should find its way to colder areas for collection. Nice idea with magnets/clamp
 
herbivore21

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Mrknotty23 said:
Hello folks!. I was wondering if some people would mind sharing their preferable squish temp for dry sift. Been playing around between 150F-200F. However I'm not really noticing a very drastic change in color. I know that hash/dry sift rosin tends to be darker anyway then flower rosin, but just trying to get it a little less dark. I'm seriously in love with my new plates from @Joel W. They are so badass!!!
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Hash rosin is not necessarily darker. New 4 star bubble hash that has not cured or oxidized too long will come out paler than flower rosin IME.

It is all about the state of the resin. Remember, not all buds are harvested at the same maturity of resin, not all hash is the same quality, not all hashmaking rooms are the same temp/humidity etc, hence what your squishes give you will vary greatly, even when using different hashes from the same variety/grow/different point of the same tree.
 
DabDiva

DabDiva

Member
Hey sorry I'm a little behind on this thread. But has the High5 Rosin press been discussed? If so does someone have the page number?
 
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Doobii

Doobii

Member
sv7587.png
been following this guy on IG for a while now and he gots set ups for sale, $300 for 4" diam. platens minus the 4 enails for heating elements.
 
CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
Ok, sorry but, 4 heating elements? Doesn't seem necessary when a soldering iron in each has proven quite adequate. IMHO, and you may differ and that's ok cuz I could be talking crap, but @Joel W. plates are virtually the same, smaller, but still the same with different metal...and seeing what some charge for enails, the price could go WAY up, unless you make your own PID's and get the elements like @2clicker. Also, I wonder if there is a return mechanism to bring the plates back up after pressing. I know it sounds like I'm bashing and maybe I am, but just taking some time and going through this thread, you could put something like that together WITH heating equipment and stay under or close to that price.
 
Doobii

Doobii

Member
CrazyDiamond said:
Ok, sorry but, 4 heating elements? Doesn't seem necessary when a soldering iron in each has proven quite adequate. IMHO, and you may differ and that's ok cuz I could be talking crap, but @Joel W. plates are virtually the same, smaller, but still the same with different metal...and seeing what some charge for enails, the price could go WAY up, unless you make your own PID's and get the elements like @2clicker. Also, I wonder if there is a return mechanism to bring the plates back up after pressing. I know it sounds like I'm bashing and maybe I am, but just taking some time and going through this thread, you could put something like that together WITH heating equipment and stay under or close to that price.
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Yeah I posted for comparison, in case others were curious for how people are pricing. Those platens are food grade stainless steel so maybe that's the high cost? Proud owner of @Joel W. Plates here
 
J

Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
CrazyDiamond said:
Ok, sorry but, 4 heating elements? Doesn't seem necessary when a soldering iron in each has proven quite adequate. IMHO, and you may differ and that's ok cuz I could be talking crap, but @Joel W. plates are virtually the same, smaller, but still the same with different metal.
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Stainless does not transfer heat quite like cuni does, so you need much more power to heat larger plates evenly.

That design also looks like it does not use any insulation materials so much of that heat will be soaking into the press, requiring even more heat..

My first set of stainless plates that were 1/2" thick would only heat about 1" round center hot spot with my 60w irons. The rest of the plate was barely warm to the touch.
 
ReggieB

ReggieB

Well-Known Member
I don't see anything wrong with pointing out potential issues, faults and pitfalls, you shouldn't have to feel bad just for looking out for yourself. 4 heating elements is excessive, that's $500 using enail controllers before you've even started with the press and plates.
 
ReggieB

ReggieB

Well-Known Member
Yup, definitely excessive, I get that people need to earn a buck but if the price was actually reduced to reflect the tech, they might just shift enough units to turn a profit without having to charge niche prices.

imho this is an incredibly empowering technology but there is nothing patentable, it's all been done for $20 on a kitchen table (clamp and straighteners), how you get from that to $1100 is beyond me.
 
Doobii

Doobii

Member
Hows is the rosin tech coming along with dry sift? @drysiftwizard2 on IG has some awesome looking screens, no carding required. Running around 225 for 18x16 2 screen setup
Also, has anyone else noticed the strength of electromagntism rosin has compared to other extracts?
 
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Doobii,
R

ROTHKO

New Member
So I used some bags for pressing today and think I am going to incorporate them from now on due to increased quality of the end result. I ordered mine from MASH 710 and was surprised to notice the material used to thread the bag together seemed to begin to fray a bit. I don't think any necessarily got into the rosin, but it allows for the opportunity. Does anyone have experience using one of the other brands? I am wondering if any are sewn with some kind of monofilament that won't be a concern of fraying.


Furthermore, does anyone feel like the bags are outrageously priced? Unless my calculations are off, the material is sold for ~$20 for 36" x 53" which is ~1944 sq inches. Considering there are two sides that makes ~972" sq. For the smaller presses using a 2" die, I found a 2"x3" bag to work well, which is 12 sq" of material. ~972"/12" = 81 bags that could be made from a $20 piece of fabric. This comes out to ~ $.24 per bag, which is about 1/5 of what is charged for the assembled bags. The best value I found can be had by purchasing 500 at a time which comes to ~$.75 per bag.

Is the sewing machines or materials used to sew these bags more expensive than average? I wonder if it is feasible to look into a bulk purchase and production of bag materials for FC users..

Does anyone have a definitive answer about what the material the screens are commonly made out of? I assume PLA?
 
Monsoon

Monsoon

Well-Known Member
ROTHKO said:
So I used some bags for pressing today and think I am going to incorporate them from now on due to increased quality of the end result. I ordered mine from MASH 710 and was surprised to notice the material used to thread the bag together seemed to begin to fray a bit. I don't think any necessarily got into the rosin, but it allows for the opportunity. Does anyone have experience using one of the other brands? I am wondering if any are sewn with some kind of monofilament that won't be a concern of fraying.
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I think the nature of the material makes it hard to eliminate fraying, just cut off the frayed ends before filling and pressing.
 
R

ROTHKO

New Member
Monsoon said:
I think the nature of the material makes it hard to eliminate fraying, just cut off the frayed ends before filling and pressing.
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the fraying is a result of pressing. I am referring to the thread used to stitch the material together that is fraying.
 
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ictus

ictus

Well-Known Member
I upgraded from Irwin clamp to a HART C-clamp and it is *way* more powerful. It says rated for up to 2400lbs. The handle on it bends to 90 degrees and has a nice grip texture so you can really bear down on it. And quick release! 15 bucks at HD.

HART-C-Clamp1.jpg



I'm not sure how much force I am generating with this, but I have caused oil to push through the parchment and torn paper directly above the chip a few times. And it leaves a dark green stain on the parchment right under the chip. I never got that with the irwin clamp or hair straightener.

I also got in some new material and it seems to ooze at a much lower temp. It has a very strong mint/menthol/pine smell. Unfortunately it is also much trickier to scrape off the paper as it tends to autobudder from even looking at it, unless I let it sit out for a few hours before scraping. Freezing barely helped, waiting seemed to be it. Maybe moisture?

Last night I got that material to produce at temps as low as 190, and by the smell, this strain was still giving off most of its nice smelling terps so I am wondering how low I can go at these pressures. IIRC didn't somebody have success at temps as low as 140 with high pressure?


Btw I got my magnets to work nicely with the above clamp. For the bottom magnet, I simply cut a very shallow ~1/16" deep hole in the bottom plywood insulator piece (the bit with magnets) so I can place it down and it won't move.

For the top, I put in 3 small woodscrews and left the top of the screws above the surface enough to catch the metal disc on the clamp. So I can just slide that piece onto the clamp and it kind of snaps into place. I had to move one of the screws a few times to get just the right spacing to where it would click without falling, and then come out again without forcing it.


Also I did end up lapping my 2.5" metal discs to a mirror finish. My reason for doing that is thinking that the smoother the metal, the more even and predictable the heat transfer through the parchment will be, even if the parchment is insulating. Of course that is hard to test but it can't hurt anything and makes it easier to clean the metal since a bit of oil seems to seep through at high pressure.
 
ictus

ictus

Well-Known Member
Ok, I wasn't sure how to interpret that rating. I thought it was more "this product fails if you attempt to use more pressure than this". I was thinking that a very strong person may be able to push it past the rating, but you seem to be indicating the threads themselves won't go past?


On one of my presses I pressed so hard that metal shavings were coming out of the clamp.
 
ictus,
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Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
ictus said:
I was thinking that a very strong person may be able to push it past the rating, but you seem to be indicating the threads themselves won't go past?
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My best guess says that the c clamp body itself, starts to flex past 2400 pounds of force? Good acme threads should be able to go much higher (10,000) pressures if the flex is removed.
 
whereskarlo

whereskarlo

Well-Known Member
GuyLeDuche said:
^Beautiful stuff, very nearly smell-o-vision lol..



So I was watching a local oil maker on YouTube ( FarmerJoeParker ) and was pretty amazed by what I saw. This dude is taking down elite oil trophies just by pressing store bought 6* bubble in a $30 Remington by hand lol. He's even pressing bubble at 300f for 10s standing on the iron?? I just don't get it lol, goes against everything I've learned...



A great tip from him though is to buy your hair iron from a store (he uses Wal-Mart) that offers an extended warranty and save the receipt, so for approx. $3 you can return it for a brand new one every time you crush it lol.

Also you can get a look into a WA state Recreational BHO producer by looking into his channel, and form your own opinions on how that all gets done ;)
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I really want to try this, looks amazing! Bypasses the need for butane or other complicated extraction methods. Does anyone sell rosin kits with custom made presses and so forth?
 
whereskarlo,
herbivore21

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
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J

Jiggly Linguini

Member
Have any you used both copper plates (like @Joel W. 's) and steel plates? If so, any difference in efficacy? Copper is well known to be one of the best thermal conductors (aside from silver) but I will have too wait on getting my hands on some sick cuni plates due to Joel W's current situation.
 
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CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
@ictus put your parchment in a pouch so to speak. Take the parchment, fold in half, place nug (like normal)...then take a second piece of parchment, fold in half, place first folded parchment with nug into the second "sleeve". Also, you can do the paper airplane style and I still use a second piece of parchment just to give it more support.
 
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