bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Can you ship it to UnklMark for repair? Hope you get it fixed soon either way; I have no ideas
Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)
- Thread starter RastaBuddhaTao
- Start date
eideal852
Well-Known Member
indeed, which is why I think I've exhausted his "try this" patience. $50 to fix, not a ton, but too much for epoxy. that said, i dont want to break it, so may be worth the piece of mind. in any case, too much for the moment....haha
Not that it was necessarily intentional, but it WAS on a dedicated mod (Joyetech Cuboid) that I only removed because it "atomizer short"s now (with anything I put on it)
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
It's an investment in your future. Also demote that cuboid and join the Red Panda revolution!indeed, which is why I think I've exhausted his "try this" patience. $50 to fix, not a ton, but too much for epoxy. that said, i dont want to break it, so may be worth the piece of mind. in any case, too much for the moment....haha
Not that it was necessarily intentional, but it WAS on a dedicated mod (Joyetech Cuboid) that I only removed because it "atomizer short"s now (with anything I put on it)
Joyetech Espion 200W Box Mod Kit $32.40
Check out these cheap deals for the Joyetech Espion Box Mod. If applicable, use discount coupon codes to get the best price or receive free shipping.
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CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
Just bought four more of the Espions with the code you posted a few weeks ago. Feel like I’m hoarding at this point because I haven’t even opened the package yet. But the hoarding feels good for some reason.It's an investment in your future. Also demote that cuboid and join the Red Panda revolution!
Joyetech Espion 200W Box Mod Kit $32.40
Check out these cheap deals for the Joyetech Espion Box Mod. If applicable, use discount coupon codes to get the best price or receive free shipping.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
I have 2 Zs and a Splinter, and they all have their own Mods that only very rarely come off. To be honest, 80% or more of my RBT use these days is my Custom Canary Z on my DNA Mod. Occasionally the Splinter comes out or the Milaana comes out, but it's usually the Canary Custom.
The 2 vapes I use the most in my collection are the Custom Canary Z and my primary (first) TM, almost exclusively on glass. I tend to swap between them when one or the other gets too warm.
For what it's worth, I had a similar problem with an early beta. I managed to get it off by pressing down hard and twisting gently. Once I overcame the inital resistance it unscrewed nicely.
eideal852
Well-Known Member
that sounds like how i got the slippery z off the MOD (indeed a trick in itself) but so far no luck getting the deck out of the canary barrel. in fact, Ive had to get it off the mod a few times now, as its the only way I have to get any leverage to spin, tug, or pull the Z at all...
unless I'm misunderstanding...
Ive also thought of maybe inverting and inserting
something into the TOP and seeing if it can push out instead of pull out, put that seems more sketch.----->()___)=
---)___)xxx)=
()___) xxxx)=
tada!
alright, fuck all the over thinking... Dentist appt this am means a few clear headed minutes this am to try again:
Done. Didnt wax, and I was too rough, no risk no reward!
NOW:
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FearAndLawyering
Well-Known Member
its a very good thing you didnt try to push down on it from the top, it would've certainly deformed something in the heater, theres basically no lip or spot to push and have leverage. Ive had to pull a few of these apart, it always feels like trying to pull out a loose tooth heh. you should get a pair of small cutters and trim that loose wire off - its not going to be functional and can pull other stuff loose
eideal852
Well-Known Member
yep that was my next question, my understanding is that its just mesh screen, so no worries cutting? also, whether it was always that way or since it started spinning, that stray was essentially wrapping from one side of the insulating shim to the other. how much does it matter if it "shorts" around that (connecting early in the heater to later in the heater)
gah Im too stupid for this.
FearAndLawyering
Well-Known Member
> how much does it matter if it "shorts" around that (connecting early in the heater to later in the heater)
essentially, the whole mesh is a 'short' its resistance is under half an ohm. the funny thing with wire is, the thinner the wire the HIGHER the resistance - its a more narrow path for electrons to squeeze through. electrically, probably no current flow through that little guy because its a longer thinner path, even if it makes contact with other places on the mesh - the rest of the mesh carries more electrons easier. you can (destructively) witness this by running like 80w through the mesh and watching which parts heat up and discolor (mostly right down the center / shortest path) - if there are thin wires like that hanging off that DO carry current, they burn out open pretty much immediately
the tl/dr is just that those strands dont matter
essentially, the whole mesh is a 'short' its resistance is under half an ohm. the funny thing with wire is, the thinner the wire the HIGHER the resistance - its a more narrow path for electrons to squeeze through. electrically, probably no current flow through that little guy because its a longer thinner path, even if it makes contact with other places on the mesh - the rest of the mesh carries more electrons easier. you can (destructively) witness this by running like 80w through the mesh and watching which parts heat up and discolor (mostly right down the center / shortest path) - if there are thin wires like that hanging off that DO carry current, they burn out open pretty much immediately
the tl/dr is just that those strands dont matter
jbm
Well-Known Member
Thanks, that was a great explanation.
StringTheorista
Well-Known Member
You could try putting a cork inside the wood sleeve to give it some support and make it harder to crush
edit: oh, I see by the time I commented you’d solved it. Way to go!
eideal852
Well-Known Member
I agree w JBM; great explanation. thats how it seems (stoner engineering) but I dont have any of the mental chops to know WHY it seems that way. Kudos to your thoughtfulness...
Now, @bossman that espion: was whatever previous deal even cheaper than the link you just posted?
and worth it? (the cuboid that started this all seems ok now
)after all your attempts, im still just a power mode dude, except temp on whatever DNA i snagged (yellow clear plastic squonk mod) but I feel like Im doing that wrong anyway. resistance leaves me befuddled)
I should have clarified that I gripped the mod in one hand and the Splinter in the other, then pressed them together and twisted. There was definitely no damage to the heater. This was a beta model after all, so it was important to be sure to check that the heater was okay.
eideal852
Well-Known Member
i gotcha before, but i think you meant splinter off mod, not deck out of wood...
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Worth it for a Z yeah, and at around $40 shipped you should still be able to sell your chunky squonk for more. I got that amber Drone deal at the same time as you I think. Late 2019 was it?I agree w JBM; great explanation. thats how it seems (stoner engineering) but I dont have any of the mental chops to know WHY it seems that way. Kudos to your thoughtfulness...
Now, @bossman that espion: was whatever previous deal even cheaper than the link you just posted?
and worth it? (the cuboid that started this all seems ok now
after all your attempts, im still just a power mode dude, except temp on whatever DNA i snagged (yellow clear plastic squonk mod) but I feel like Im doing that wrong anyway. resistance leaves me befuddled)
Either Red Panda mod is better for a Z than any dna mod: quicker warm up from a cold start, no fiddly "enter" button to adjust temp or wattage, adjustable auto fire, less of the obnoxious dna resistance rechecking. Also you can just leave the resistance unlocked while still getting even extraction in tc or wattage.
I used to own five color dna mods and a bunch of rxg3ds for my V2s. Nowadays the Zs are all on Red Panda mods and the V2s are on single cell iStick Rim C arctic fox mods.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Someone on Reddit yesterday scored a brand new ZV1 for like $45... That same seller was selling what seemed to be a ZV2 bundled with mod and so many stems for $55... Stay on top of EntExchange people!
Razhumikin
Well-Known Member
I saw that and was sad i missed it. Incredible deal, assuming it really works.
NimChimpsky
Well-Known Member
Saw that too, what a damn score. That could have been sold for 4-6x that price easy. The person who got it said it was their first 510 - talk about starting the race at the finish line lol.
eideal852
Well-Known Member
is that true? 200+ for the VZs? sheesh
man that 45 is less than the mod (espion shipped at 50+)
NimChimpsky
Well-Known Member
A Z could sell for 200 for sure and I image a mint V1 like that could have gone for more. I wouldn't have gotten it for that price since I already have a couple Zs but yea 45 is an insta buy.
cx714
Unregulated Tendencies
4everpushingaboulder
Well-Known Member
Don’t know how many of these still exist in the wild, but I bought a vape lot from @mephisto almost for the glass and the mod alone (not to mention the unbelievable grain on the v2).
This is my new favorite stem.
This is my new favorite stem.
Sr.Gonzo - PhD
Member
Howdy all,
First post ever here on FC. AcanthaceaeCapable40 from Reddit as I recognize a few folks from over there.
Just recently picked up a Splinter V2. I think the stems are likely not the ones that came with the device originally, device says V2284 on 510 connector. It looks to be Walnut, 2 airholes, and 19/22 and I read that Walnut Splinters were US made and not China. Just wanting to know a little more about the history of this vape.
First 510 ever.
Don’t know how to post pics but I can share pics if necessary.
First post ever here on FC. AcanthaceaeCapable40 from Reddit as I recognize a few folks from over there.
Just recently picked up a Splinter V2. I think the stems are likely not the ones that came with the device originally, device says V2284 on 510 connector. It looks to be Walnut, 2 airholes, and 19/22 and I read that Walnut Splinters were US made and not China. Just wanting to know a little more about the history of this vape.
First 510 ever.
Don’t know how to post pics but I can share pics if necessary.
FearAndLawyering
Well-Known Member
imgur.com is a good image file host. Im not sure if forum image uploads are working now but I tend to avoid them because they dont wipe metadata on the images (geolocation, etc).
@Shit Snacks is probably the best person to give you an idea