Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

[bossman]

I forgot how hard both my splinter v1/+?( it's bubinga and has the thinner clear glass) and my ZV2 hit! I love my Mi2 it's fantastic but after using my splinter last night I may have to put down my Mi for a little while. Taste was somehow even terpier( prob bc I was using only 25 watts) and it was a much more even roast compared to my Mi. My Z is by far my most powerful vape and I haven't forgotten that but it's just sat idle. I may do some testing today between the two to see which I prefer more. The raw power of the Z is nice but smaller heater on the regular splinter is no slouch either, and I do enjoy the smaller overall size compared to the Z. I'm using a RX G3 Dual with the tubo firmware on it but I'm just using wattage mode right now. Does TCR drain battery faster than wattage ?

https://imgur.com/a/WEaxgCc

also how do these TCR settings look? They were originally set for my Z. Edit: M2 is set to 145

Get an Espion for your ZV2. Red Panda is a fantastic firmware for a Z and only the Espion and Ravage230 are compatible. PM me if you get one and I'll email you my config file.

My Zs are still my most used vape and while the Espion is a bit bigger and heavier than the rxg3d it's always been tops for me when it comes to speedy heat up and even extraction

Joyetech Espion 200W Box Mod Kit $32.40

Check out these cheap deals for the Joyetech Espion Box Mod. If applicable, use discount coupon codes to get the best price or receive free shipping.

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[Jayvape]

Get an Espion for your ZV2. Red Panda is a fantastic firmware for a Z and only the Espion and Ravage230 are compatible. PM me if you get one and I'll email you my config file.

My Zs are still my most used vape and while the Espion is a bit bigger and heavier than the rxg3d it's always been tops for me when it comes to speedy heat up and even extraction

Joyetech Espion 200W Box Mod Kit $32.40

Check out these cheap deals for the Joyetech Espion Box Mod. If applicable, use discount coupon codes to get the best price or receive free shipping.

cheapvaping.deals

okay, thanks so much! I've heard a lot about Red Panda and Artic Fox but I've only ever tried Tubo and Sur_myevic. Tubo has worked for TCR but I couldn't get sur_myevic to work with TCR mode consistently without getting errors. Edit: also that cooling stem looks insane where did you get it?

 

[androponic]

okay, thanks so much! I've heard a lot about Red Panda and Artic Fox but I've only ever tried Tubo and Sur_myevic. Tubo has worked for TCR but I couldn't get sur_myevic to work with TCR mode consistently without getting errors. Edit: also that cooling stem looks insane where did you get it?

looks like a stem from @Vlad the Inhaler that is Phineas here. message him for details on his products.

 

[bossman]

okay, thanks so much! I've heard a lot about Red Panda and Artic Fox but I've only ever tried Tubo and Sur_myevic. Tubo has worked for TCR but I couldn't get sur_myevic to work with TCR mode consistently without getting errors. Edit: also that cooling stem looks insane where did you get it?

Like @androponic said, it's a vigreaux stem from @Vlad the Inhaler. Last I checked @508phineas on IG was the better way to holler at him but maybe he's checking FC messages again now too.

For two handed magic I recommend the larger 16mm ID j-hooks from OregonGlassBlower.com too. @Shit Snacks has a double bent sidecar design while mine look more like a pipe. Paired with a joint packed wpa the cooling and clouds are impressive

 

[Jayvape]

looks like a stem from @Vlad the Inhaler that is Phineas here. message him for details on his products.

thanks!

Like @androponic said, it's a vigreaux stem from @Vlad the Inhaler. Last I checked @508phineas on IG was the better way to holler at him but maybe he's checking FC messages again now too.

For two handed magic I recommend the larger 16mm ID j-hooks from OregonGlassBlower.com too. @Shit Snacks has a double bent sidecar design while mine look more like a pipe. Paired with a joint packed wpa the cooling and clouds are impressive

whoa this set up looks sick! My poor bank account lol

Edit:

https://imgur.com/MSmL2E3

Does anyone know a fix to this or how it happens It's saying " New coil 0.28 ohms Right --- Same coil 0.25 ohms Left"? It's Tubo Firmware. I get this message in TCR mode but not power mode, kind of weird.

 

[3l3tric]

Does anyone know a fix to this or how it happens It's saying " New coil 0.28 ohms Right --- Same coil 0.25 ohms Left"? It's Tubo Firmware. I get this message in TCR mode but not power mode, kind of weird.

That message is coming up because the device read a resistance from the coil that was different from its saved cold resistance in temp control mode.

To clarify:

When using any temperature control mode, the mod requires a setting called the "Cold Resistance". This is simply the resistance of your coil/heating element at room temperature. The mod uses this as a reference point so that it can calculate the temperature of the coil during a puff. Importantly, the mod also expects the coil's "Live Resistance" to go back down to that "Cold Resistance" value shortly after a puff.

Now, the heater in the Splinter takes a bit longer to cool down than your average ecig coil. In fact, it takes so much longer that there's a chance that you could try to start a second hit, but the coil is still somewhat warm and so its Live Resistance is higher. The mod sees that the Live Resistance of the coil isn't the same as its saved Cold Resistance, and thus it throws up the prompt above.

To directly answer your questions: The "fix" would be to hit same coil, ASSUMING that the resistance listed there matches your true Cold Resistance. If you want to be sure, leave the unit sitting around for awhile (an hour would make sure you're definitely good) then read the Live Resistance** before a puff. As long as you're sure the "same coil" option matches the cold resistance reading for your coil, you're good to pick that option if/when the prompt comes up.

As explained above, the Cold Resistance is only relevant for temp control modes, which is why you don't see this prompt come up at all in power mode. I'm not familiar with the tubo firmware specifically, but in other firmwares like arcticfox you can disable the feature that causes this prompt to come up in the first place, even in temp control modes. You're looking for some kind of setting that mentions smart coil sensing or something like that.


TL;DR: You're probably good hitting same coil when that prompt comes up. Read above if you want to understand why.


**This likely will require briefly tapping the fire button, as the resistance reading displayed on many mods before a puff isn't a live-updated reading. If your firmware allows for device monitoring over USB, you can also use that to check the live resistance.

 

[Jayvape]

Now, the heater in the Splinter takes a bit longer to cool down than your average ecig coil. In fact, it takes so much longer that there's a chance that you could try to start a second hit, but the coil is still somewhat warm and so its Live Resistance is higher. The mod sees that the Live Resistance of the coil isn't the same as its saved Cold Resistance, and thus it throws up the prompt above.

Oh basically I'm just trying to take a second hit too soon and the heater hasn't cooled down enough to return to the saved cold resistance value?

To directly answer your questions: The "fix" would be to hit same coil, ASSUMING that the resistance listed there matches your true Cold Resistance. If you want to be sure, leave the unit sitting around for awhile (an hour would make sure you're definitely good) then read the Live Resistance** before a puff. As long as you're sure the "same coil" option matches the cold resistance reading for your coil, you're good to pick that option if/when the prompt comes up.

Thank you for the help! However when that message pops up I don't get the option to pick between NEW or SAME coil. The message just pops up whenever I hit the fire button in TCR mode and I have wait a few minutes before TCR mode starts working properly again. Unless you mean to keep pressing the fire button anyway even though the coil message keeps showing up?

but in other firmwares like arcticfox you can disable the feature that causes this prompt to come up in the first place, even in temp control modes. You're looking for some kind of setting that mentions smart coil sensing or something like that.

I tried looking for a smart coil setting and I wasn't able to find one but thank you for the info! I may switch from TUBO to Articfox, it's not a big deal but I would like the ability to take back to back hits without having to worry about the heater needing to cool down.

 

[3l3tric]

Oh basically I'm just trying to take a second hit too soon and the heater hasn't cooled down enough to return to the saved cold resistance value?

Pretty much. To be clear, it's just an arbitrary software restriction that's causing the issue, not some kind of safety feature. It should be absolutely safe to take a second hit before the heater's cooled all the way down, you just may face this software annoyance.

Thank you for the help! However when that message pops up I don't get the option to pick between NEW or SAME coil. The message just pops up whenever I hit the fire button in TCR mode and I have wait a few minutes before TCR mode starts working properly again. Unless you mean to keep pressing the fire button anyway even though the coil message keeps showing up?

I haven't personally used the tubo firmware so I'm not 100% sure, but based on your pic it looks like that should be a prompt. If I'm understanding right, if you pressed left when that prompt came up, it would leave your cold resistance alone and let you go ahead and take a puff, but if you pressed right instead it would update your cold resistance to whatever it detected (in the case of your screenshot, .28 ohm)

I tried looking for a smart coil setting and I wasn't able to find one but thank you for the info! I may switch from TUBO to Articfox, it's not a big deal but I would like the ability to take back to back hits without having to worry about the heater needing to cool down.

I can definitely guarantee that if you switch to AF you'll have the ability to disable the prompt entirely in settings. For any non-traditional ecig device that smart sensing really breaks down and just becomes a nuisance.

To disable that junk in AF, you'll go to the "Smart" tab in the configurator, then just make sure the "Smart Mode" dropdown box is set to "Off". You will have to manually change profiles if you ever use any other type of heater unit on that mod (Like if you switch between your splinter and an RDA), but it will make sure that prompt doesn't come up again.

I will say that NFEToolbox can seem a little overwhelming when you first start using it, but the manual really helps detail all the settings, and you should be able to configure your device with all the exact same settings as you had on TUBO pretty quickly. And don't hesitate to ask if there's anything else that's unclear.

 

[FearAndLawyering]

508phineas at it again - https://www.instagram.com/p/CZrxxxnlKep/ this was an instabuy for me. not at all practical but should make for some amazing photo ops

 

[Grass Yes]

I haven't personally used the tubo firmware so I'm not 100% sure, but based on your pic it looks like that should be a prompt.

I use tubo, on that mod and I have never seen that prompt. Although maybe I disabled it because I have "Check" set to "No" in the Coils menu.

 

[cx714]

NFEToolbox can seem a little overwhelming when you first start using it, but the manual really helps detail all the settings.

There’s a manual?

 

[4everpushingaboulder]

There’s a manual?

NFE Products Manual

docs.google.com

 

[3l3tric]

I use tubo, on that mod and I have never seen that prompt. Although maybe I disabled it because I have "Check" set to "No" in the Coils menu.

After skimming through the manual, it sounds like this is the same feature as the smart profile sensing in ArcticFox, thanks for pointing that out! @Jayvape if you don't feel like flashing AF this option should also work for you.

 

[4everpushingaboulder]

I managed to snag a Splinter Zv2 in Blackwood off entexchange. VAS is a cold hearted biatch but it rounds out my collection.

Slight cracks near the base but not up the sides …yet… I’ll baby this one along. Already a few coats of wax in, with a few test cycles and some cool down in between.

This makes my fifth 510 (v2, Zv2, Custom Wenge, and 2 CX). (Sold Herbie v2 and Shammer is toast)

Sadly the Milaana get little use at the present, but I will forever have them as they showed me the way to RBT.

For the first time in a year I don’t feel like I need to chase anything. (No encouragement needed folks )

By the way dang they all really hit differently. I think I was surprised at how different this Zv2 was compared to the Custom.

 

[cx714]

By the way dang they all really hit differently. I think I was surprised at how different this Zv2 was compared to the Custom.

Any thoughts on how the Zs hit vs the CXes? I picked up a CX to fill the Z-shaped hole in my collection but, you know, VAS.

Not asking if one’s better, just wondering if there’s a big performance difference since the designs are similar.

 

[4everpushingaboulder]

I love my CXs. They are very close to the Z. I’ve had lots of discussions with @FearAndLawyering about the differences. The Z runs at a higher TCR than the CX so while the vapor produced by the mesh is similar the Z hits ‘thicker’ would be the word I use??

Ryan’s custom base and the higher TCR (which is theoretically more accurate) (I also suspect he used a higher grade steel mesh) give the Z extra oomph and a bit smoother feel.

But if the Z is a 10/10 then the CX is a 9/10 and the next closest competition is the iHeat. I find the taste and the extraction and the feel/fit to be almost identical. Ryan’s dad was a carpenter but Fear is getting better every round. His latest burl bodies are gorgeous.

 

[Jayvape]

I use tubo, on that mod and I have never seen that prompt. Although maybe I disabled it because I have "Check" set to "No" in the Coils menu.

hmm interesting, I have check set to no as well.

 

[Jayvape]

I decided to switch it up and use my ZV2 tn, instead of my splinter and I have to say damn. It still hits like a truck. I was using my same setup (G3D with TUBO. Cold resistance was .423, I dropped it down by .005 to .418, locked. TCR M2 set to 145 and power was at 40W. I was at 350F. 3 hits was all it took, there was a slight hotspot but not enough to bother me. I'm not sure what it is about the Zion heater compared to the regular splinter but something different is definitely happening lol. Still impressive and will probably stay on the Z, my poor splinter may go back to the shelf

 

[GoldenBud]

I decided to switch it up and use my ZV2 tn, instead of my splinter and I have to say damn. It still hits like a truck. I was using my same setup (G3D with TUBO. Cold resistance was .423, I dropped it down by .005 to .418, locked. TCR M2 set to 145 and power was at 40W. I was at 350F. 3 hits was all it took, there was a slight hotspot but not enough to bother me. I'm not sure what it is about the Zion heater compared to the regular splinter but something different is definitely happening lol. Still impressive and will probably stay on the Z, my poor splinter may go back to the shelf

Never had the pleasure to try the Z in TCR, only in wattage, some good friend who owns it never let me try it lol but in 50W it kicks asses
but I wonder if proper settings can make the Splinter, V2 in my case, kick asses like the Z?
like.. with the Z the clouds are bigger for 0.1gr than this? while using the most proper settings? V2 - TCR 125, 45W, locked 0.01 below cold (something like 0.258) and something like 428F?

istick220

Watch "istick220" on Streamable.

streamable.com

 

[Jayvape]

Never had the pleasure to try the Z in TCR, only in wattage, some good friend who owns it never let me try it lol but in 50W it kicks asses
but I wonder if proper settings can make the Splinter, V2 in my case, kick asses like the Z?
like.. with the Z the clouds are bigger for 0.1gr than this? while using the most proper settings? V2 - TCR 125, 45W, locked 0.01 below cold (something like 0.258) and something like 428F?

istick220

Watch "istick220" on Streamable.

streamable.com

If those are your settings from the vid, your splinter looks like it's pumping out vapor.

with the Z the clouds are bigger for 0.1gr than this?

Are you asking me if the Z makes bigger clouds with 0.1 grams than the video you posted? If so I would have to check, I was pretty baked last night and didn't really pay attention. Also I believe we're at two different temps. In the vid it looks like you're at 200c? I typically stay below 370f.

 

[FearAndLawyering]

TCR isn’t going to give you bigger clouds per se, probably someone with really good wattage technique will get a bit more out of it. but it makes it infinitely easier to get nice clouds and avoid combusting accidentally when riding the line. the Z will give bigger clouds and easier hits. is the Z better? yes. if you had both you would never reach for the regular one (maybe as a smaller portable option for outside the house)

 

[Franco]

is the Z better? yes.

if you had both you would never reach for the regular one (maybe as a smaller portable option for outside the house)

Personally I reach for my regular V2 only for bong hits.

 

[Razhumikin]

Personally I reach for my regular V2 only for bong hits.

Thats funny, i do the opposite. I reach for my regular v2 mainly for dry hits, but when i really wanna milk up my bong i use my Z.

 

[Franco]

Thats funny, i do the opposite. I reach for my regular v2 mainly for dry hits, but when i really wanna milk up my bong i use my Z.

The Z with a Joytech Espion is quite heavy, that's why I tend not to use it on a bong.

 

[Razhumikin]

The Z with a Joytech Espion is quite heavy, that's why I tend not to use it on a bong.

Ah yea that makes sense, i usually use a light single battery mod (p80 or cb80) for bong rips.