Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

[Shit Snacks]

Have you looked at the splinter thread here? Searched within it for splinter Z settings? You got boss man here and he will hook you up, but that would have been the more proper way to do things...

Z stems will fit the tetra, but I think the Lamart stems are better, so many options, but they do not fit splinter...

Also 36 watts is pretty low for a Z, you could be using 40 especially if you are stuck with the limited auto shut off of the stock mod firmware...

Should be easy to upload Arctic Fox though there are a lot of tutorials if you just Google, then you can use boss man's profiles

 

[bossman]

I feel silly now, but no. Is there a guide to downloading/installation?


I'm currently running 36.0w

Bonus question: Do you also have a recommended stem for the Tetra P80?

Yeah, you need a windows computer and you'll use the nfetools utilities to flash your mod and upload whatever settings you want. Accept the cold unlocked resistance, set TCR to something in the 120 to 160 range and max wattage to 50W.

The project is closed

All my Lamart shopping predates the P80/tank/nub era so I'll leave that to someone else.

 

[Shit Snacks]

All of the Lamart stems have been reviewed many times in the Tetra P80 thread

 

[MurderByVape]

that would have been the more proper way to do things...

Apologies, I was confused while searching the thread and was hoping I could cut to the chase and ask outright here

 

[MurderByVape]

All of the Lamart stems have been reviewed many times in the Tetra P80 thread

Thanks, I'm always open to new recommendations. I've been looking for something since the Bent Spikey Intake is no longer being produced

 

[Shit Snacks]

Apologies, I was confused while searching the thread and was hoping I could cut to the chase and ask outright here

I get it, but it still would have made more sense to post in the actual thread to ask the question, more splinter users would be seeing it there... Although it is a question that is asked every other page too lol

Thanks, I'm always open to new recommendations. I've been looking for something since the Bent Spikey Intake is no longer being produced

Well they might start making it again someday who knows, but the new micro stem is nice for open air flow cooling, tank offers more cooling but much more drawer restriction with narrow mouthpiece, nub has a slightly different cooling system but works well although the mouthpiece tip can get quite hot (one nub I have fits in some of my splinter Z so could get lucky) then the long plain bent stems seem nice, especially if you add an amaze cooler to them maybe...

 

[badbee]

Do you absolutely need temperature control? Personally I think going with custom firmware and TCR settings over complicates the learning process and introduces a whole bunch more potential failure points. The Z works great in wattage mode and I would strongly encourage you to master that before moving on to customized settings.

Screw it on, load the basket, set it to 41 Watts and inhale slowly for 10 to 15 seconds. Do this three to five times until the load is toasted or you get frustrated. Come back and tell us exactly what you did and how it worked out and you will get advice on how to improve the experience. This is the introduction to the Splinter Z class 101.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Do you absolutely need temperature control? Personally I think going with custom firmware and TCR settings over complicates the learning process and introduces a whole bunch more potential failure points. The Z works great in wattage mode and I would strongly encourage you to master that before moving on to customized settings.

Screw it on, load the basket, set it to 41 Watts and inhale slowly for 10 to 15 seconds. Do this three to five times until the load is toasted or you get frustrated. Come back and tell us exactly what you did and how it worked out and you will get advice on how to improve the experience. This is the introduction to the Splinter Z class 101.

You absolutely do not need it, but I do think it is important to put another firmware on there so you can adjust the auto shut off time because its the most annoying thing lol

 

[bossman]

I made a .afc (Arctic Fox config) file for the Z. Pm me with your email address and I'll send it to you. It'll streamline the initial setup. After that you're just adjusting temps and hitting the fire button (double click for autofire, triple click to switch modes).

@badbee how about we get your tc dialed in too. There's more to life than wattage and you talking folks out of trying it would ring a bit more true if you knew what you were missing

 

[MurderByVape]

I am so close...

ArcticFox's Firmware Updater recognizes:
"[J059] Wismec Reuleaux RX GEN3 Dual"

Firmware successfully updated.

Firmware: 1.10
Hardware: 1.00
Boot: APROM
"Device is ready."

Here's where the problem arises

ArcticFox's Configuration:
"Connect device with ArcticFox [P12] 190602 firmware or newer"

"Connect and Download configuration"

Bottom of page -
"Device is disconnected -- Ready"

I have tried searching to troubleshoot this, but I'm coming up short.
@bossman you have been so helpful, could you possibly help resolve this hiccup?

 

[bossman]

I'm not sure I follow exactly what's happening. Sometimes using a different USB cable can help with connection issues but if the firmware updater worked then the same cable should be fine for running the Arctic Fox Configuration Utility. Are you not getting to the main screen in the AF config utility where you see the eight profiles and the upload and download buttons at the bottom? Or is that you can see that screen but the mod isn't connected?

What we want is to run the AF config utility and use the button at the top right to import the .afc file I'll email you onto one of the profile locations. I generally have three profile slots on my Red Panda and Arctic Fox mods: wattage, Splinter, and Splinter Z. I disable the other five to make it easier to switch between them.

 

[MurderByVape]

I'm not sure I follow exactly what's happening. Sometimes using a different USB cable can help with connection issues but if the firmware updater worked then the same cable should be fine for running the Arctic Fox Configuration Utility. Are you not getting to the main screen in the AF config utility where you see the eight profiles and the upload and download buttons at the bottom? Or is that you can see that screen but the mod isn't connected?

What we want is to run the AF config utility and use the button at the top right to import the .afc file I'll email you onto one of the profile locations. I generally have three profile slots on my Red Panda and Arctic Fox mods: wattage, Splinter, and Splinter Z. I disable the other five to make it easier to switch between them.

The issue is that I can't get into the Configuration setting. I have found a way to bypass it, but I do not have the option to Download Settings/ Upload Settings/ Reset settings

 

[MurderByVape]

I'm an idiot...

I accidentally downloaded an older version of ArcticFox. After updating to the newest version it looks like it worked

Thanks! @bossman

 

[GoldenBud]

TCR 125, locked 0.270, 48W, 220-230c, i found my spot

 

[bossman]

 

[MurderByVape]

Profiles:
I have a profile for power and a profile for TC

P1:
Enabled : check
Name : Power
Power : 33W
Power step : 1W
Mode : Power

P2 :
Enabled : check
Name : Splinter
Power : 45W
Power step : 1W
Mode: Temp Control Setup: PI-Regulator:Enabled P:1850 I:300 (default values)
Coil Material : TCR 125
Temp Step : 1C
Temp Dominant :check

P3 - P8 : Disabled

Screen > Appearance > Main screen skin : Foxy
> Regional : degrees C

Controls > Multi Clicks > TC mode fire Button Clicks - 2 Autofire, 3 Edit, 4 Select Profile
If you want to cruise in wattage mode you need to change the VW fire button multi clicks in the same way.

Smart > Off

Advanced > Puf Cut-Off - 60s (this is the autofire and max puff time)
Ryan (RBT) says not to go over 45W with the Splinter so I have the Power Limit set at 60W


And I vape at around 200C

You need a good cold resistance reading for temp control to work, best taken after the Splinter and Mod haven't been used for at least an hour.
The TCR is the rate of change of temp with resistance (or is it the other way round?) so increasing the TCR will increase the temp of the coil and the rate of change you will see as you increase temp onscreen (some people like it higher)
You can also increase or decrease the resistance to change the temp of the coil without changing the rate of change, in .001 increments to dial in the settings you want. Increasing the resistance will increase the coil temp.

I followed this settings guide

And that, kids, is how I learned to love the Splinter Z thanks to @bossman

 

[Grass Yes]

i use a 14/18 WPA from milliken wood works that fits my Splinter v2 perfectly. paging @Deg999_

This is a fantastic suggestion. @Deg999_ is going to make me a Patagonia rosewood WPA, and I picked up a Shammer while I was at it. I've been meaning to get one. Thanks!

 

[GoldenBud]

wooden stems FTW
never get too hot, look and feel better than glass

 

[jbm]

wooden stems FTW
never get too hot, look and feel better than glass

I once wiggled an Ed's blackwood stem out of a custom Z and the glass came with it.

 

[Grass Yes]

I once wiggled an Ed's blackwood stem out of a custom Z and the glass came with it.

 

[GoldenBud]

I once wiggled an Ed's blackwood stem out of a custom Z and the glass came with it.

didn't understand if you actually got it or not?
using lamart stem now for the Mi and soon for the Splinter, also great option with the glass insert

 

[jbm]

didn't understand if you actually got it or not?

I was using this stem (in blackwood) in my bubinga custom Z, After a hit or two I tried to remove it to stir the herb. As I tried to loosen it the glass insert in the Z came out of the wood sleeve. Had to send it for repair.

 

[CanikUser19]

I was using this stem (in blackwood) in my bubinga custom Z, After a hit or two I tried to remove it to stir the herb. As I tried to loosen it the glass insert in the Z came out of the wood sleeve. Had to send it for repair.

I’ve had a wood stem get stuck in one of my Splinters, I left it in overnight after a session (don’t do that any more), heated it up a little and it came right out. I had a brand new US Custom Z deliver to me from a shop in the UK, it came to me brand new with a loose glass joint, so it happens. Easy enough fix with some medical grade epoxy if the glass is still intact and just loose, I posted about repairing mine in the Milaana thread.

 

[LooseCucumber]

Hey guys, so the splinter has been receiving daily use with the stock stem for about two weeks now. First week was wattage 40-45W with enjoyable results, however last week I went down the TCR rabbit hole. At first it was a bit annoying, (I cherried the heck out of my first TCR bowl) it definitely takes tinkering with different values but using a PC to configure AF makes this a breeze. I combusted bc my draw speed was too slow; I immediately knew my mistake.

Eventually I've settled on 40W, resistance locked at .29, TCR 160, and 390F. This allowed for a 4-hit extraction, but it was living a little dangerously with a hot spot so I may turn it down slightly. The performance is really nice for a portable whether in wattage or TCR. This is strictly a portable for my use case.

2 of the 4 v2's I received had wisps of vapor/smoke during the burn off, but they seem good now. A small bummer is that the ED's stems I bought for the Mi3 don't fit the v2 right, it wiggles. Oh well, so far RBT has been a fun experience.

 

[androponic]

Yeah all RBT V series have the burn off puff of toxins. the first time it happened to me i thought it went poof and died but it was fine. since then all of my import splinters did that and i have too many, lol