Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

[Sticky13]

I have resisted full blown DNA mod due to the balance I can't reach between price/learning curve, etc.

The DNA setup is pretty simple.

Download Escribe -> Connect mod -> Load the following profile -> Reset and lock resistance to cold resistance -> Extend fire button to 20secs -> Thats it, export.

For the Splinter, change watts to 40w and punch to 50w, and follow as above.

Its worth it

 

[vapviking]

The DNA setup is pretty simple.

Download Escribe -> Connect mod -> Load the following profile -> Reset and lock resistance to cold resistance -> Extend fire button to 20secs -> Thats it, export.

For the Splinter, change watts to 40w and punch to 50w, and follow as above.

Its worth it

Thanks, if I ever get a DNA mod I'll give it a whirl. But I can already see that this "simple" procedure would lead to a host of questions on my part...
There are some things in tech I have embraced and others I've held at distance. Been doing digital multi-track music for 20 years now, for example. I put a PC in my office at work in the '90's before the company itself had any 'system'.

But, for me, it's been like working on cars. There was a time I could remove and rebuild stuff on my '67 Volvo, including the motor. Then, at some point in the '80's we bought a car, I opened the hood to take a look and declared, "Fuck it! I'm done."
Now, I buy a good, serviceable vehicle and leave the heavy lifting to my mechanic. I transferred that aptitude to "the tech age" for a while with computers, now I just want the thing to do what I need it to do.

I've held for years that if computers hadn't come along, I'd still be putz-ing around with old cars...

 

[Chandler]

I'm listening to the talk on TC mode. It's been so long since I set my Z up, the process is foreign again. Afraid to alter my current settings, but I want to try TC....

I used DNA ecig profile from ogFC a long time ago. These are my settings. Do these look good? What should I change to improve TC?
Thanks



When I try TC mode, after a few fire presses I get a 'temp protect warning'. Then I go back to wattage

 

[Sticky13]

Your Escribe looks little different.. maybe an old version? I've highlighted where you can load a new profile. Also highlighted where you can measure the cold resistance.

 

[bossman]

The variety of methods and options on mods, from firmware to settings to dialing it all in, have been a bridge just a little too far for my old brain to cross. The last two pages here are a blur. But, "it's not you, it's me."

I have had some success with Splinter V1, mostly if I stay with wattage mode and focus my attention on the process. That degree of focus is something I would (apparently) prefer to place elsewhere and so my mileage varies from bowl to bowl, strain to strain, etc. Even down to needing to manage my use-behavior by knowing how much juice is left in the battery? I have tried using it exclusively for days at a time to try to ingrain a smooth process, but for every few bowls that go well, I do one that either chars or hotspots or, well, whatever.

Any time I've explored changing my settings, even just finding/engaging auto-fire, or trying to find TC settings (Sinuous P80 myevic (I think!)) things go awry. I really don't want to learn all that stuff, like any time I've pushed the wrong button I'm back to re-setting everything to factory spec and reconstructing the setup. Groundhog Day.
And I had zero issues when I had to learn to set the clock on my vcr.

I certainly can see why folks love all the RBT unregulated vapes; each one is a thing of beauty and I know that each one is a very capable device. I also have an Mi3. For me, it's also resulting in mixed feelings.

Having come this far on the ride, and still an incurable victim of vas, I have ordered another mod. I had stopped using the P80, suspecting some 'issues' plus it had a broken usb port, so maybe the Sinuous Ravage 230 will renew my interest. I have resisted full blown DNA mod due to the balance I can't reach between price/learning curve, etc.
I am gonna need some remedial assistance with the Red Panda when the time comes...

I've probably setup more than a half dozen RX Gen3 Dual mods with my preferred myevic config and the one Sinuous Ravage running Red Panda performs as well as any of them. The Ravage with Red Panda is also very quick to warm up with the ZV2 so no disappointing first hits in my experience.

This pic shows most of the relevant settings. With the Ravage I've only ever accepted cold resistance and left it unlocked:

I'm listening to the talk on TC mode. It's been so long since I set my Z up, the process is foreign again. Afraid to alter my current settings, but I want to try TC....

I used DNA ecig profile from ogFC a long time ago. These are my settings. Do these look good? What should I change to improve TC?
Thanks
View attachment 1545
View attachment 1546

When I try TC mode, after a few fire presses I get a 'temp protect warning'. Then I go back to wattage

Those settings look very similar to mine. I seem to recall learning how to disable that temp protect warning in escribe but I don't remember how to do it.

The three things I'd recommend experimenting with apart from dismissing that warning are:

1) uploading the Warm and Hot material files so you can select them from that row at the bottom that says SplinterZ in your mod pic

2) boosting max wattage to 50 or 55. Herbie changed the max to 45W out of respect for the max wattage in the RBT warranty but it's TC so it's not actually drawing that much continously

3) upping the resistance by .01 or so at a time to find a cold resistance setting in TC that starts to make quick enough clouds at low enough displayed temps. This is admittedly a bit of a kludgy hack on my part but particularly with DNA mods the resistance is the nitrous noz when you want fast and furious

Using those three variables and the temp setting itself I can get all my DNAc mods to just pump cool vapor at low temps with very little initial browning or I can leave one too aggressive for rapid extraction that I still generally prefer to wattage because the heat is capped and doesn't build throughout the longer hits I prefer.

 

[Sticky13]

When I try TC mode, after a few fire presses I get a 'temp protect warning'. Then I go back to wattage

@Chandler i've had the same issues with older profiles.. I found the warning would appear if the resistance was locked too far out to the true atomiser cold resistance.

Try the profile I posted above, "Measure Ohms," check "Locked" (at ambient temp,) and then match the rest + extend "Puff Time" under "Safety" tab to desired.

 

[Chandler]

You guys are the best! Manning the grill right now. I'ma study yall instructions instructions n get back.

Appreciated

 

[SquirrelMaster]

I'm listening to the talk on TC mode. It's been so long since I set my Z up, the process is foreign again. Afraid to alter my current settings, but I want to try TC....

I used DNA ecig profile from ogFC a long time ago. These are my settings. Do these look good? What should I change to improve TC?
Thanks
View attachment 1545
View attachment 1546

When I try TC mode, after a few fire presses I get a 'temp protect warning'. Then I go back to wattage

These are my settings for TCR. I ran the Splinter material for my ZV1 but the the US custom Ryan sent me works really well as shown.


Change the max firing time in the Safety/Mod tab. I may have more options present.

 

[AJS]

Hello fellas!
I finally got a mod and snagged a Sinuous p80. I’m still dialing it in.
I downloaded the tubo software to it. I keep trying to cruise and it automatically refreshes back to 20W if I do it in wattage mode. I would like to cruise at a higher wattage momentarily during a hit. Does anyone know how to do this without It resetting to 20W?

 

[vapviking]

Hello fellas!
I finally got a mod and snagged a Sinuous p80. I’m still dialing it in.
I downloaded the tubo software to it. I keep trying to cruise and it automatically refreshes back to 20W if I do it in wattage mode. I would like to cruise at a higher wattage momentarily during a hit. Does anyone know how to do this without It resetting to 20W?

Similar reset to 20 happens on my P80 using myevic, trying to activate auto-fire (cruise). Has been very frustrating, idk wtf.

 

[Hippie]

Wattage mode cruising or surf mode as funkyjunky calls it is limited to 20w in tubomyevic for safety

 

[Shit Snacks]

Hello fellas!
I finally got a mod and snagged a Sinuous p80. I’m still dialing it in.
I downloaded the tubo software to it. I keep trying to cruise and it automatically refreshes back to 20W if I do it in wattage mode. I would like to cruise at a higher wattage momentarily during a hit. Does anyone know how to do this without It resetting to 20W?

Yeah try surmyevic or arcticfox instead, but I wouldn't really recommend cruising for too long with wattage regardless... If you can set up some temp control I think you will enjoy the splinter even more on the P80, I have my V2 dialed in on one with arcticfox, I still have my canary Z running wattage on a G3D with surmyevic where I use autofire set to 25sec (typically stopping it earlier than that, at 42-65 watts) Good luck my dude!

 

[vapviking]

Just got a new Ravage230, gonna put a Splinter V1+ on it.
Can someone direct me to Red Panda, please? *I believe I found it (rp_190624.bin) at NFE forum*
I think I know how to flash the firmware (once I have it).
But I'll soon also need help with really explicit setup directions, like assume-I-know-nothing type directions.
I see @bossman's photo above and can attempt to get there...but I'm not using a Z.

EDIT #2;
I've been having a lot of fun with the buttons and dials and stuff and have managed 3 really nice bowls with the V1 on this mod. I did load in Red Panda but have not really changed any settings other than max watts to 55 (in power mode) and the screen a little brighter. 26 watts/power mode has been just fine.
One big revelation for me is use of the NToolbox & laptop for configuration settings. I have been (only) slightly behind the curve on this shit. Up until now I've used myevic on the Sinuous P80, doing all of the setup on the device, no pc. That is one of the things I've found to be a huge pita about the whole box mod experience.
So, I went back into the P80 and flashed AF and realized I could do configs with the utility with this one also. Its' usb won't work for charging but the data aspect is working. Finished a bowl at 26W using that mod, same Splinter V1.
I use a quarter turn clockwise after each hit to try to alleviate hot spots. I don't like stirring.
All the chambers I've done have been very even colored with near zero hot spots.

Nice way to spend an afternoon.

 

[Chandler]

Ok. Took a couple of days but I think I've figured it out. Locked resistance at 0.453ohms, preheat 55w.
Pretty simple. I was creating my own problems...
Now initial tests, at 350f I'm getting quick smooth clouds, more even roasting, great effects!
I found with the ohms set higher than 0.45, I get the temp protect warning.

My questions are: why shoukd we lock the ohms? I noticed in one trial where I unlocked them, during the session it fluctuated between 0.48 - 0.5ohms. Performance was nice.

@bossman in the 'materials' tab, I don't have warm and cold settings available in the list. Where could I obtain those?

Finally, my joytech vtc dual. I like how light the splinterZ feels with only one battery.
How do I setup TC on a mod that's not dna250?
I have my old surmyevic files... Connected I update the firmware from the bin files. Ok but now what? How do I change out of watt mode? Or is there a better way?

 

[Sticky13]

why shoukd we lock the ohms?

For battery saftey.. Ex. for single 18650's 3.7v 20A.. iirc 18650 tops out at ~4.2v.

Ohms Law, v=IR, (v=AΩ)..
4.2v & 20A, will give you a resistance of .21Ω.. so playing with resistances any lower on an unregulated mod would not be wise with little electrical knowledge..

4.2v / .4Ω (average resistance of Z's) = 10.5A = < 20A the battery is rated.

So .4Ω = 10.5A and .5Ω = 8.4A

Power Triangle P=Iv, (w=Av)..
50w / 10.5A = 4.76v
50w / 8.4A = 5.95v

Thats just with .1Ω difference.

-

Glad you got the DNA running @Chandler

 

[bossman]

@bossman in the 'materials' tab, I don't have warm and cold settings available in the list. Where could I obtain those?

Finally, my joytech vtc dual. I like how light the splinterZ feels with only one battery.
How do I setup TC on a mod that's not dna250?
I have my old surmyevic files... Connected I update the firmware from the bin files. Ok but now what? How do I change out of watt mode? Or is there a better way?

My VTC Dual always seemed like a nice pickup but honestly it's performed worse than every other mod I've owned with every Splinter and the Tubo X I bought it for. If money isn't tight I'd just get a Wismec RX Gen3 Dual (or Sinuous P80 if the smallest size is the priority) so you can rest assured you'll have that standard of performance. That said, Ryan himself uses that little VTC mod all the time with no complaints so maybe I just like what I know or never got mine sorted.

 

[SquirrelMaster]

@Chandler
There's a link in my signature with the material files for cool, warm, hot, Splinter and Splinter Z created by Herbie.

 

[Chandler]

Remeasured cold ohms. Upped the ohmage by 0.03
Nice results. Glad to have taken the time to get to know how use these systems
@bossman interesting, dna250 mods are best for performance, but wismec rx gen3 is not dna250 chip, but performs well? I'd like to try n get the vtc going before I count it out, but the rx gen3 dual is available and is affordable. The DNA model available isn't.

The materials - I added warm n hot profiles. I don't have space in the list to add cold because all the profiles are in use. Can't delete the ones in use? @SquirrelMaster, @bossman (or anybody else) can you please give me more insight on what each of those profiles is doing? I should be switching between these as I vape?

I need to go back n read, but the splinter v2 has a less aggressive heater than Z? Or same. Hard to tell by description. When the sales return I'd like to add a Splinter to the line up

Thanks!

 

[Shit Snacks]

Remeasured cold ohms. Upped the ohmage by 0.03
Nice results. Glad to have taken the time to get to know how use these systems
@bossman interesting, dna250 mods are best for performance, but wismec rx gen3 is not dna250 chip, but performs well? I'd like to try n get the vtc going before I count it out, but the rx gen3 dual is available and is affordable. The DNA model available isn't.

I need to go back n read, but the splinter v2 has a less aggressive heater than Z? Or same. Hard to tell by description. When the sales return I'd like to add a Splinter to the line up

I don't know if I would use the word aggressive, but the Z heater is larger and a bit more complex of a design is all.

 

[Chandler]

It never ends. Just when you start having fun

N just like that I'm out the splinter game. Occurred from twisting the stem while inserted after taking a lovely draw. Never got to actually go out with my Z. A couple weeks of lust. Can't justify replacement right now. Covid killing ppls pockets as well. When sales return I'll be back on board

 

[Bazinga]

Not sure what you are showing. Did something break?

 

[pakalolo]

Not sure what you are showing. Did something break?

There's a huge chunk out of that glass. It shouldn't have broken like that unless a lot of force was applied. Since @Chandler says it happened while twisting during a draw, it's more likely that the glass was already weak for some reason.

 

[Chandler]

There's a huge chunk out of that glass. It shouldn't have broken like that unless a lot of force was applied

Correct. There was a slight angle to the turn. Was odd. But I needed to apply more pressure than usual, then boom. There was the uncomfortable sound n twist. Wasn't sure at first if I broke the stem or the inner glass. Inner glass it was

 

[Shit Snacks]

Correct. There was a slight angle to the turn. Was odd. But I needed to apply more pressure than usual, then boom. There was the uncomfortable sound n twist. Wasn't sure at first if I broke the stem or the inner glass. Inner glass it was

For future reference and for anyone else, you should never really be twisting the stem when it is in the joint, because if they are locked together you could damage the unit... to be careful, you should always pull the stem out a little before twisting.

It's kind of funny the way these glass joints work, sometimes it's loose and the stem sticks to your lips and pulls out of the vape when you don't want it to, while other times it is too tight getting stuck in the vape when you don't want it to and you have to be careful trying to remove it!

 

[Chandler]

sometimes it's loose and the stem sticks to your lips and pulls out of the vape when you don't want it to, while other times it is too tight getting stuck in the vape when you don't want it to and you have to be careful

indeed. ALL of this ^^!