Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

[Shit Snacks]

Hey everybody, sorry to be this guy but .... If anybody is using the new tubo software with a splinter V1 could you post the settings you are using for me? I am pretty bad with technology and I had some difficulty.
Even if I just use wattage mode I still have to lock resistance correct? At .25 ?
Anything else?
I was trying temp control mode and it seemed real hot. Even set below 200. I guess that's not meant to be read as the temp at the basket? Or am I wrong?
Using the lamart firmware because I used a Mac computer to upload it.
My splinter is the Bubinga version before the dark wood V1s
Evic mini.

If you're using wattage power mode you don't have to worry about locking cold resistance, that is only for temp control mode, but the temp control mode itself will also need to be configured. It is set up for a tubo right now, not a splinter, so play around adjusting the TCR value up or down until 200c feels like 200c to you. Also be very careful using any of the cruise features with Splinter, especially until a proper temp control is set up... Good luck!

 

[Mowgli]

Also be very careful using any of the cruise features with Splinter, especially until a proper temp control is set up... Good luck!

Made that mistake immediately. Combusted and I think I saw the the heater glow. Lowered the “peak power” because it was set to 70 w and that seems too high ( ? )
I have it at 50
I have the tcr value at .294
I’m messing with that and the highest/lowest temp settings. It’s working better, still figuring it out tho
Let me know if any of that sounds dumb.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Made that mistake immediately. Combusted and I think I saw the the heater glow. Lowered the “peak power” because it was set to 70 w and that seems too high ( ? )
I have it at 50
I have the tcr value at .294
I’m messing with that and the highest/lowest temp settings. It’s working better, still figuring it out tho
Let me know if any of that sounds dumb.

Oh yeah that's what I mean that's very dangerous, glad you caught it in time! The TCR value should just be a 185 number to start with at m1, so .294 sounds wrong to me at least... and yeah I forgot about the max wattage, it shouldn't be using the max wattage much at all in TCR mode anyway, technically it should be 45 wax though... If you search through this thread I'm pretty sure people have shared settings, bossman in particular, definitely on old FC at least.

 

[LabPong]

So instead of beeswax, would there be any reason not to use boiled linseed oil wood finish on a Splinter?

Sure......I use olive oil and veg oil too.

 

[Mowgli]

Oh yeah that's what I mean that's very dangerous, glad you caught it in time! The TCR value should just be a 185 number to start with at m1, so .294 sounds wrong to me at least... .

sorry I completely mistyped that, .294 is the value that “TUBO” is set to under the coils menu
I didn’t change M 1 M2 or M3
Sorry we can delete my posts for repeating stuff

 

[Shit Snacks]

sorry I completely mistyped that, .294 is the value that “TUBO” is set to under the coils menu
I didn’t change M 1 M2 or M3
Sorry we can delete my posts for repeating stuff

Ah my mistake, that is the resistance! press "zero all" and that should give you cold resistance as long as your heater has been sitting at room temp for a bit, not warm at all. I forgot that that firmware calls cold resistance value the Tubo value... It should be around .25 for Splinter like you said before, and yeah just adjust the m1 TCR value up and down until you feel the right temperature.

 

[vapviking]

So instead of beeswax, would there be any reason not to use boiled linseed oil wood finish on a Splinter?

I hadn't planned on trying to answer you, because idk specifically about boiled linseed oil, though I do know it is sold/used as a wood finish.
I have definitely read about not using plant based oils like these;

I use olive oil and veg oil too.

since they can turn rancid.
This is why they are not recommended for salad bowls, wooden utensils, etc
I'm not intending to sound a major alarm. The amount used (and the amount left on the surface) in this instance seems negligible, and it is not a food-related use.

For Milaana it is really just a cosmetic application, to renew a dried-out look. I would still tend to suggest a wax, preferably beeswax, but a parafin or carnuba will do the job and be less mess than linseed oil. Waxes will not build up to near glossy (think 'varnish') like some oils can if overdone.

Geez, it took a while to reach back almost 60 years -- but the most I've ever seen linseed oil used was when I was in Little League baseball; we would put that stuff (a lot of it!) on our baseball glove to keep the leather supple.

 

[money2]

https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/splinter-z-by-rbt.34076/post-1472177

Linking corn Mi3 RBT history contest

 

[pakalolo]

Hey everybody, sorry to be this guy but .... If anybody is using the new tubo software with a splinter V1 could you post the settings you are using for me? I am pretty bad with technology and I had some difficulty.
Even if I just use wattage mode I still have to lock resistance correct? At .25 ?
Anything else?
I was trying temp control mode and it seemed real hot. Even set below 200. I guess that's not meant to be read as the temp at the basket? Or am I wrong?
Using the lamart firmware because I used a Mac computer to upload it.
My splinter is the Bubinga version before the dark wood V1s
Evic mini.

For a Splinter V1, the resistance should be somewhere around .230 to .235. .25 will result in it being way too hot no matter what temperature you select.

The resistance value is a fudge factor that TCR uses to calculate the temperature to display. The mod box doesn't measure temperature directly, it calculates it based on the change in resistance. When you lock the resistance, you force the firmware to use your value instead of the measured value. This shouldn't have any effect on wattage mode.

 

[LabPong]

I have definitely read about not using plant based oils like these;
since they can turn rancid.
This is why they are not recommended for salad bowls, wooden utensils, etc
I'm not intending to sound a major alarm. The amount used (and the amount left on the surface) in this instance seems negligible, and it is not a food-related use.

Yes, your not going to drown the wood with it....just a light layer that gets sucked into the pores quickly, then wipe off any excess just after application.

 

[Consolidated21]

@ Mowgli ,check out that old page, to have a clue...
Splinter Z by RBT

Lower your resistance, I have a Z at .389 locked res. - when cold reads around .400 -.
And about temps start at 160c or lower depends on your locked res ...


Edit: after post i saw the answering from@pakalolo...

 

[LabPong]

What do you all do to really get a good pre-heat going with a Z?

I have a US Z with Gen3 dual and just use wattage mode at 38w. I messed around up and down with that setting and just found I could get hot or powerful enough vapor with draw and power button feathering technique. I also use the DDave ult. cooling stem with water...so a basket screen holds the load in the stem.

I normally hold and preheat without draw for about 7-10 seconds....then start drawing constantly while holding power button on and off for about 6 seconds on....1-2 off.....6 on.....etc

But this process takes too long for the vape to really get hot and extract well with shorter draws and power use. I get to the point where it does after the 3rd draw where you can really feel the heat on the wood.

Not sure I want to use cruise mode or not....tried it but seemed like took too long start to finish. Any tips would be welcomed...thanks!

 

[Shit Snacks]

For a Splinter V1, the resistance should be somewhere around .230 to .235. .25 will result in it being way too hot no matter what temperature you select.

The resistance value is a fudge factor that TCR uses to calculate the temperature to display. The mod box doesn't measure temperature directly, it calculates it based on the change in resistance. When you lock the resistance, you force the firmware to use your value instead of the measured value. This shouldn't have any effect on wattage mode.

That's the first time I've heard of a resistance that low on a V1/V2? .25 (some .26 even or maybe .24 too) has been pretty consistent for me and judging by others' posts in the thread... I know some people raise and lower their resistance, but I just think it shouldn't be touched, for temp control I always lock cold resistance and adjust TCR value... Admittedly my understanding is limited, but yeah for wattage power mode none of this matters anyway, and we've seen different people have been doing different things for temp control too.

 

[Archetype 75]

Just reciviced my new mod, the Odin DNA 250 for my Splinter Z, It deserves the best

 

[Mowgli]

For a Splinter V1, the resistance should be somewhere around .230 to .235. .25 will result in it being way too hot no matter what temperature you select.

The resistance value is a fudge factor that TCR uses to calculate the temperature to display. The mod box doesn't measure temperature directly, it calculates it based on the change in resistance. When you lock the resistance, you force the firmware to use your value instead of the measured value. This shouldn't have any effect on wattage mode.

Thanks to everyone who’s helping me sorry to hijack the thread. Feel free to delete or clean up my comments, or tell me if I need to.
I’m back to wattage mode for now, but while I have you guys.... if my resistance reads really high when “zeroed” and at room temp would that indicate damage to the heater?
That wouldn’t be the only issue I am having (can’t change “M1” setting) So I think I’m going to try AF at some point.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Thanks to everyone who’s helping me sorry to hijack the thread. Feel free to delete or clean up my comments, or tell me if I need to.
I’m back to wattage mode for now, but while I have you guys.... if my resistance reads really high when “zeroed” and at room temp would that indicate damage to the heater?
That wouldn’t be the only issue I am having (can’t change “M1” setting) So I think I’m going to try AF at some point.

Hmm trying another firmware may be a good idea!

 

[GoldenBud]

Thanks to everyone who’s helping me sorry to hijack the thread. Feel free to delete or clean up my comments, or tell me if I need to.
I’m back to wattage mode for now, but while I have you guys.... if my resistance reads really high when “zeroed” and at room temp would that indicate damage to the heater?
That wouldn’t be the only issue I am having (can’t change “M1” setting) So I think I’m going to try AF at some point.

get a data micro usb cable, connect to PC
google for NFE tools
install it
firstable try reinstall tubo firmware:
use the firmware updater after getting into file "NToolbox.exe"
take firmware latest version from here: https://shop.lamart.ch/index.php?route=product/category&path=72
reinstall and see if you can change M1 M2 M3 to 145 and resistance as they supposed above ....
if it doesn't work :

then google for Arctic Fox
install it through NFE tools, and then play with it by temp control (in NFE tools , it will detect the device and you can reconfig through the software) .. TCR around 145, temp dominant.
about resistance i'm not sure, as pako / snax said i guess

 

[pakalolo]

That's the first time I've heard of a resistance that low on a V1/V2? .25 (some .26 even or maybe .24 too) has been pretty consistent for me and judging by others' posts in the thread... I know some people raise and lower their resistance, but I just think it shouldn't be touched, for temp control I always lock cold resistance and adjust TCR value... Admittedly my understanding is limited, but yeah for wattage power mode none of this matters anyway, and we've seen different people have been doing different things for temp control too.

I guess you didn't read all of the Splinter thread on OG FC. I posted this value several times there. For example, this post deals with the cold resistance read by the box versus the value I wound up using: The Splinter by RBT. This applied to both my V1 and V2 Splinters.

 

[bossman]

What do you all do to really get a good pre-heat going with a Z?

I have a US Z with Gen3 dual and just use wattage mode at 38w. I messed around up and down with that setting and just found I could get hot or powerful enough vapor with draw and power button feathering technique. I also use the DDave ult. cooling stem with water...so a basket screen holds the load in the stem.

I normally hold and preheat without draw for about 7-10 seconds....then start drawing constantly while holding power button on and off for about 6 seconds on....1-2 off.....6 on.....etc

But this process takes too long for the vape to really get hot and extract well with shorter draws and power use. I get to the point where it does after the 3rd draw where you can really feel the heat on the wood.

Not sure I want to use cruise mode or not....tried it but seemed like took too long start to finish. Any tips would be welcomed...thanks!

I like the abandoned version of myevic on my rxg3d mods. Are you using stock firmware or have you flashed your mod with Arctic Fox, sur_myevic, etc?

I'm not the best person to give you specific settings since all my Zs are on DNA250C mods. In general my approach is to bump the max wattage, resistance, or TCR value on any of my rxg3d Splinters so that it's quick enough from a cold start. It's fair to say that I do this because I can't be bothered to switch to wattage or preheat in TC beyond pressing the button three or four seconds before starting my draw.

So if my TCR is 160 and max wattage is 45W, and cold resistance is .40ohms I'll increment any or all of those until the heater is fast enough to get even roasting and quick vapor production at even low temps in the 360 to 385° range. I mostly only find it necessary to fuck with resistance on my DNA mods. For my rxg3d mods I'll up the max wattage in TC mode to 50W, up the TCR to 180 and see how that works. I haven't had locked resistance on my non-dna mods although I've heard @Shit Snacks and others swear by it.

Lastly I seldom take my two cell Splinter mods below maybe 75% battery and if a Z feels sluggish my first fix is to make sure it has full or nearly full LG HG2 cells.

I know my approach is unorthodox and I'm sure many other members have a better understanding of how resistance and other settings are affecting the heater's behavior. For my use I want my Splinters to get going quickly and to always extract without much coaxing so I keep them fairly cranked and mostly start a bowl around 365° while knowing full well that the displayed temp is likely not accurate.

Just reciviced my new mod, the Odin DNA 250 for my Splinter Z, It deserves the best

Is that the dual 21700 one? How do you like it so far? It looks like great size for a Z and no bigger than it needs to be. I've been wondering if we'll see the kind of performance we've come to expect using the much more limited selection of 21700 cells.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I guess you didn't read all of the Splinter thread on OG FC. I posted this value several times there. For example, this post deals with the cold resistance read by the box versus the value I wound up using: The Splinter by RBT. This applied to both my V1 and V2 Splinters.

Of course, but all I really recall is most people reporting around .25 and that has been consistent for me as well... I guess I should have said remember instead of heard! Nothing is universal I suppose

 

[bossman]

Of course, but all I really recall is most people reporting around .25 and that has been consistent for me as well... I guess I should have said remember instead of heard! Nothing is universal I suppose

I only have one V1 left at this point and I think it's around .25 or so yeah. My V2s are all in the .24 to .27 range I think.

 

[LabPong]

I like the abandoned version of myevic on my rxg3d mods. Are you using stock firmware or have you flashed your mod with Arctic Fox, sur_myevic, etc?

I'm not the best person to give you specific settings since all my Zs are on DNA250C mods. In general my approach is to bump the max wattage, resistance, or TCR value on any of my rxg3d Splinters so that it's quick enough from a cold start. It's fair to say that I do this because I can't be bothered to switch to wattage or preheat in TC beyond pressing the button three or four seconds before starting my draw.

So if my TCR is 160 and max wattage is 45W, and cold resistance is .40ohms I'll increment any or all of those until the heater is fast enough to get even roasting and quick vapor production at even low temps in the 360 to 385° range. I mostly only find it necessary to fuck with resistance on my DNA mods. For my rxg3d mods I'll up the max wattage in TC mode to 50W, up the TCR to 180 and see how that works. I haven't had locked resistance on my non-dna mods although I've heard @Shit Snacks and others swear by it.

Lastly I seldom take my two cell Splinter mods below maybe 75% battery and if a Z feels sluggish my first fix is to make sure it has full or nearly full LG HG2 cells.

I know my approach is unorthodox and I'm sure many other members have a better understanding of how resistance and other settings are affecting the heater's behavior. For my use I want my Splinters to get going quickly and to always extract without much coaxing so I keep them fairly cranked and mostly start a bowl around 365° while knowing full well that the displayed temp is likely not accurate.


Is that the dual 21700 one? How do you like it so far? It looks like great size for a Z and no bigger than it needs to be. I've been wondering if we'll see the kind of performance we've come to expect using the much more limited selection of 21700 cells.

I see......I messed with TCR once....but didn't like it cause it seemd to take too long to finish a bowl. I like the power mode using 38-40W and just preheat a couple times. Some day I may have patience to figure out good TCR settings for my use....but I'm used to feathering the heater so much with a couple other vapes.

Would finding a good TCR setup for myself make a bowl go as fast as wattage mode use?

 

[bossman]

I see......I messed with TCR once....but didn't like it cause it seemd to take too long to finish a bowl. I like the power mode using 38-40W and just preheat a couple times. Some day I may have patience to figure out good TCR settings for my use....but I'm used to feathering the heater so much with a couple other vapes.

Would finding a good TCR setup for myself make a bowl go as fast as wattage mode use?

I hadn't realized you only used wattage. Extraction speed can be fast but TC is its own thing and more about vapor quality and flavor than rapid extraction. I've gravitated to TC and don't even get on and off the button in wattage. Splinter hits with precise temperature control are first rate so I recommend you get a setup where that option also works well at some point. The early hurdle is the firmware and config hassle but then it's like having two vapes in one.

 

[vapviking]

The early hurdle is the firmware and config hassle but then it's like having two vapes in one.

The variety of methods and options on mods, from firmware to settings to dialing it all in, have been a bridge just a little too far for my old brain to cross. The last two pages here are a blur. But, "it's not you, it's me."

I have had some success with Splinter V1, mostly if I stay with wattage mode and focus my attention on the process. That degree of focus is something I would (apparently) prefer to place elsewhere and so my mileage varies from bowl to bowl, strain to strain, etc. Even down to needing to manage my use-behavior by knowing how much juice is left in the battery? I have tried using it exclusively for days at a time to try to ingrain a smooth process, but for every few bowls that go well, I do one that either chars or hotspots or, well, whatever.

Any time I've explored changing my settings, even just finding/engaging auto-fire, or trying to find TC settings (Sinuous P80 myevic (I think!)) things go awry. I really don't want to learn all that stuff, like any time I've pushed the wrong button I'm back to re-setting everything to factory spec and reconstructing the setup. Groundhog Day.
And I had zero issues when I had to learn to set the clock on my vcr.

I certainly can see why folks love all the RBT unregulated vapes; each one is a thing of beauty and I know that each one is a very capable device. I also have an Mi3. For me, it's also resulting in mixed feelings.

Having come this far on the ride, and still an incurable victim of vas, I have ordered another mod. I had stopped using the P80, suspecting some 'issues' plus it had a broken usb port, so maybe the Sinuous Ravage 230 will renew my interest. I have resisted full blown DNA mod due to the balance I can't reach between price/learning curve, etc.
I am gonna need some remedial assistance with the Red Panda when the time comes...

 

[jbm]

My V2s are all in the .24 to .27 range I think.

I just checked my v2 and it's 0.279 cold.