Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

Gonchin

Gonchin

Well-Known Member
KeroZen said:
Did you force a re-read of the resistance by your mods? Maybe they are stuck with the other attachment value?

Also check your 510 center pin. Use a metal brush to gently clean it, can't hurt.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply!

Wire brush did not help. I'm not sure how to re-read the resistance with Tubo.

GoldenBud said:
TCR 160, when the device is cold check cold resistance. reduce 0.016 , lock it, 45w limitation, try from temp=390F for starters or so....
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply!

It was running flawlessly with my original settings until after I removed it from the mod. I tried your settings just in case, but the response from the Splinter Z was the same. Temp reading goes up to 800 -900 range. Both Watts and Amps stay closer to 1. No Heat at all.
 
Gonchin,
F

FearAndLawyering

Well-Known Member
Gonchin said:
Thanks for the reply!

It was running flawlessly with my original settings until after I removed it from the mod. I tried your settings just in case, but the response from the Splinter Z was the same. Temp reading goes up to 800 -900 range. Both Watts and Amps stay closer to 1. No Heat at all.
Click to expand...
whats the cold ohm reading of the Z?
 
KeroZen

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Yeah I suspected it was something around the resistance value. Especially since you said you could make it work in Power mode (and you'd have gotten an error from the mod protection if there was a real short)

Also I'm not sure you can really short the heater with the lower screen. At worst they could weld with heat and make the screen part of the circuit, but it only touches the heater at the top of the tree that goes above the insulator slab.
 
KeroZen,
rvarick

rvarick

Well-Known Member
Anyone know whether it's at all possible to damage a Splinter/Z by using auto-fire in TC mode (double-click in Arctic Fox), and forgetting to stop the auto-firing after the hit? My Z runs at 50W in TC mode, with a 60-second timeout for reference. I wasn't sure how much over-firing the "coil" (mesh) can withstand; but guessing with it being SS, as well as the temp protection it would take a lot more abuse than a 60-second fire to have things go south (?)
 
S

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
rvarick said:
Anyone know whether it's at all possible to damage a Splinter/Z by using auto-fire in TC mode (double-click in Arctic Fox), and forgetting to stop the auto-firing after the hit? My Z runs at 50W in TC mode, with a 60-second timeout for reference. I wasn't sure how much over-firing the "coil" (mesh) can withstand; but guessing with it being SS, as well as the temp protection it would take a lot more abuse than a 60-second fire to have things go south (?)
Click to expand...

I don't believe that 60 autofire would damage a Splinter Z. There are folks here who used splinters with the Lamart software which has a "cruise" function that is an autofire for longer than 60 seconds in many cases.
 
F

FearAndLawyering

Well-Known Member
you’re unlikely to damage the heater from any TC that is set properly.
but the main source of damage to these units is if the wooden body is allowed to get too hot with no airflow going through it pulling the heat out. at a certain temp the glue will fail and the glass will fall out or the base will come loose (good idea not to turn or remove the unit when hot).
after it cools down if you want to be certain you can pull or try to spin the glass or base. if it’s all solid then it’s fine. if it’s loose or comes apart then it was damaged

> runs at 50w at tcr

max wattage isn’t as important as the max temp here. think of temp as max speed and wattage as max acceleration
 
StringTheorista

StringTheorista

Well-Known Member
Hey, just sharing that I repurposed a grav one hitter into a very decent stem. Specifically, the 16mm grav one hitter with the silicone skin. Added a silicone hookah grommet on the hot end, to mate with the splinter, a basket screen, filled it with boro balls. (All things I had on hand.) Works great

CD049-FDA-4-F81-4-B5-E-AE2-B-4-CD54-BE14534.jpg
 
badbee

badbee

Well-Known Member
StringTheorista said:
Hey, just sharing that I repurposed a grav one hitter into a very decent stem. Specifically, the 16mm grav one hitter with the silicone skin. Added a silicone hookah grommet on the hot end, to mate with the splinter, a basket screen, filled it with boro balls. (All things I had on hand.) Works great
Click to expand...
Hookah grommets... that seems like a thing I would have heard of before, but nope. Thanks for that, I love this site for weird tidbits like this one.
 
StringTheorista

StringTheorista

Well-Known Member
Hookah grommets are very useful to have around. They also convert a 14mm piece to fit an 18mm joint, I use them on my dynavap VonG to make it work with my 18mm ti dangle bong. Keeps the metal on metal from scratching.
 
Grass Yes

Grass Yes

Yes
Staff member
StringTheorista said:
Hookah grommets are very useful to have around. They also convert a 14mm piece to fit an 18mm joint, I use them on my dynavap VonG to make it work with my 18mm ti dangle bong. Keeps the metal on metal from scratching.
Click to expand...
Also really cheap. You can get 10 for $5 on Amazon. I use them as small 18mm socket to 14mm plug adapters. (I believe I got the link from @StringTheorista originally here:
StringTheorista said:
These silicone hookah grommets turn any 14mm male fitting into an 18mm male
Click to expand...
)
 
virtualpurple

virtualpurple

Well-Known Member
Hi guys, can anyone give me a hand getting set up with the appropriate firmware for the Joytech Espion to run the Z?

I believe it is still Red Panda, but I can’t find a download for the life of me. I’ve reached out to @bossman for guidance. It if anyone is able to help in the meantime it would also be appreciated. Thanks folks!
 
virtualpurple,
virtualpurple

virtualpurple

Well-Known Member
Ah, I see! I had not tried that. @Gdash had sent me a link via pm that I was able to directly download with after a few tries. I had thought it was an issue with my browser maybe, but I just went back and followed your suggestion and that worked as well! Thanks for the assistance folks!

Now to work my way back and get figure out how to get my Z dialed in correctly!
 
bossman

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
virtualpurple said:
Ah, I see! I had not tried that. @Gdash had sent me a link via pm that I was able to directly download with after a few tries. I had thought it was an issue with my browser maybe, but I just went back and followed your suggestion and that worked as well! Thanks for the assistance folks!

Now to work my way back and get figure out how to get my Z dialed in correctly!
Click to expand...
Emailed you the config file. The latest RP build is here:
nfeteam.org

[P2] RedPanda 190624

fa-microchip fa-download 190624 Minimum required NFE Tools version: [P2] NFE Tools v190703 English: fa-plus NToolbox Puffs Log support; fa-plus...
nfeteam.org nfeteam.org
 
GoldenBud

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Consolidated21 said:
We've talked about TCR privately @GoldenBud ... after an attempt at 165, I turned it back to 185 from the beginning and my Z at res. .401 works strangely, better than ever... via fankyjunky 's firmware
Click to expand...
Never had a Z configured by myself, is 0.401 like 0.02~ below cold resistance?
my regular V2 worked really well with TCR 185 too, amazing flavour when it's set right
the Z I tried twice in my life : one time with 50W huge cloud with somebody that didn't want to set TCR , one time with TCR by DNA, so cool

and yes i agree, funkyjunky firmware really rocks for Splinters too!
 
GoldenBud,
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Shit Snacks

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I don't know I remember trying that when I had mine originally way back when and could never get it working right, too many variables with the mod though probably, the lower TCR and Arctic Fox firmware worked better for me without a G3D mod
 
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