Discontinued Purple-Days Vaporizer

HoneyAir

HoneyAir

Well-Known Member
This is how I stopped the rattle [the snap ring is already removed, the looseness made it useless to me at this point].

Jtwi0.jpg


Two screws on each end so that it is centered in the PD. It does take a little adjusting here and there until I was satisfied it was in the center and not moving at all. Of course, do not do this while the unit is plugged in. Test with a multimeter to ensure there is the approximately 20 ohms then plug it in.

I don't know if you're willing to go that far with the PD if you are trying to preserve its beauty. I just happen to be a functionality first type of guy.

The snap ring is hard to remove if you don't have snap ring pliers to remove them, so you'd need that if you are considering opening it up.

An alternative method would probably be putting in four wooden dowels to give the unit something to brace itself against, then putting the snap ring back on. It would be important to not completely surround the unit with wood because if it reflects too much heat back it could make it too hot and combust [as I went through when I tried to surround the area with cardboard a year or two ago]. I'm not sure how long the dowels would last in the heat though, but if its a tight enough fit maybe it'll last despite drying out.

------------------

To continue with the thread, the second resistor I used also moved up to 22 ohms from 20.5 after use-- I guess the heat changes it after all. I'm not having trouble with combustion though, so I'm set.

This is the replacement AC adapter from Jameco, same stats as the one I got with the PD.

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/st...Id=10001&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
 
HoneyAir,
lwien

lwien

Well-Known Member
Or..........just put in another snap ring or two. Worked like a charm for me. No more rattles. Rick over in Zapville, even sells a Tite Kit which includes 3 rings. Got a cheap snap ring plyers on amazon for 6 bucks and I was good to go.
 
djonkoman

djonkoman

Well-Known Member
to remove the snapring without ringpliers(wich I don't own, could order it but then I have to wait while I camn also do it wihout immediatly and without paying anything), I use nailscissors. the points of those are small enough to fit in the circles of the ring. once you get the ring contracted some it slips up, and yopu can get it out further by just placing something under it and use as a lever

@jeremy
I know that kind of frustration, has often happened to me that I typed out a long post, then I submit and my session is expired, or my LAN-cable slipped out, and the whole post is lost. not only on this forum tough

just make sure you get leadfree solder, not regular solder
 
djonkoman,
jeremy

jeremy

Member
Oh no. I was ready to solder it. One of the ends of my resistor came off while I was adjusting it. I did get some pictures so far, but I'll wait until I write my procedure / guide to put them up. Ordering a new resistor.
 
jeremy,
max

max

Out to lunch
The 2 oz. size is .25" longer than my PD tube, so it should be big enough. Considering the cheap price though, I'd get the 4 oz. size as well.
 
max,
HoneyAir

HoneyAir

Well-Known Member
I bought a powersupply that indicates that it can withstand a continuous output power short for very cheap [Link involves multiple companies at various prices, I went for the one priced at $3.24].

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JRGOCM/ref=pe_175190_21431760_C1_cs_sce_3p_dp_1

Its been working so far, although for quite a while it was giving off an almost-burnt electronic smell which is going away... but need to give this time to see if it lasts or whether the smell was warning me that it wasn't liking this continuous near-1 amp output. The unit is very small so it does get warm to the touch [significant but comfortable warmth at a level that would make you sweat if you kept your hand on it].

It has a red LED light which is handy for telling if theres a problem with the wires or whether the transformer has stopped working.

I'll report back here if it fails.
 
HoneyAir,
hazy

hazy

combustion fucker
Manufacturer
Is the PD getting hot enough? Those small switchmode power supplies tend to put out very close to 12V, unlike the original Jameco unregulated supplies which although rated at 12V, actually put out around 14V when plugged into the vape.
 
hazy,
HoneyAir

HoneyAir

Well-Known Member
Definitely hot enough to turn the abv dark when I've hit the stem completely.

Its DC [most adapters have VDC output, the Jameco was VAC] and I've read that DC would create slightly more heat, so I guess at nearly 12v [checked with a multimeter, its just over 12v] the temperature is just right.
 
HoneyAir,
hazy

hazy

combustion fucker
Manufacturer
It's not so much to do with AC or DC, it's about what a particular power supply delivers to the vape under load. As long as you're happy with it, that's the main thing. I bought a 12V power supply similar to yours a couple of years ago, but found it disappointing. I really need around 14V to get the PD working properly.
 
hazy,
jeffp

jeffp

psychonaut/retired
lwien said:
Or..........just put in another snap ring or two. Worked like a charm for me. No more rattles. Rick over in Zapville, even sells a Tite Kit which includes 3 rings. Got a cheap snap ring plyers on amazon for 6 bucks and I was good to go.
Click to expand...


It would be great if someone would be willing to produce and upload an easy how to video of this procedure for the rest of of us mechanically challenged vaporists.
 
jeffp,
HoneyAir

HoneyAir

Well-Known Member
You can see a single snap ring on your PD, so adding more snap rings would give the tight fit needed to make the unit stay in place and not rattle at all. I thought this was a great and hassle-free idea when lwien posted it.

I still only have my one snap ring so I can't make a video myself, just chiming in here.



Oh no. I was ready to solder it. One of the ends of my resistor came off while I was adjusting it. I did get some pictures so far, but I'll wait until I write my procedure / guide to put them up. Ordering a new resistor.
Click to expand...
Jeremy, hope everything went well with your PD repair?
 
HoneyAir,
lwien

lwien

Well-Known Member
Yup. You just take the snap ring, squeeze the ends together with a snap ring pliers and put into the top hole. Once half way in, level it out horizontally and tap down with either the wooden tamp tool that was supplied with the newer PD's, or use the copper one that you can get from Rick over at Zapville. That's it. Good as new.
 
lwien,
overdriveak

overdriveak

Well-Known Member
Another one bites the dust.

Problematic vape from the start. I recount more than a few times of being frustrated to find the unit cold even with gentle treatment. I went through 2 power supplies and also replaced the wiring 3 times as well as the plug. Had the loose heater element too, resulting in a crack formed when I moved the snap ring down. Over time it just got bigger...
Then vape stopped heating up even with the power supply being good. I took it apart from the bottom to find the resistor was broken in half. Having given up, I decided to pry the wood into 2 with my hands.

Result:
2ztdl45.jpg
 
overdriveak,
W

Wolface

Well-Known Member
Yep, That is pretty much where I think mine is headed too, unless I can get my heater to snug down.
 
Wolface,
Rick

Rick

Zapman
The rings are 1" internal retaining rings available at Lowes, Ace Hardware, etc. The problem with installing a second or third ring is the main hole in the wood has reduced in diameter once the PD, Zap or WDZ has been heated for any period of time. So even if you use snap ring pliers as lwein suggested, the new ring will not compress enough to fit inside the hole in the wood. That is why we grind the ends of the rings down just a little for the tite kit, so the ring will compress a little smaller and fit the smaller hole. That is also why the process went good for lwein.

If you guys can get them in and tamp them down on your own, I will send you three rings with the ends ground down for $4.00 total. That will cover my postage, paypal fees and the rings, no profit. If interested, send me the $4 directly through Paypal.
Send to: orders@aromazap.com
 
Rick,
HoneyAir

HoneyAir

Well-Known Member
overdriveak said:
Another one bites the dust.
Then vape stopped heating up even with the power supply being good. I took it apart from the bottom to find the resistor was broken in half.
Click to expand...

Interesting... since mine was broken in half too when I found it.

I wonder if after several years of use the heat finally makes it brittle enough to crack and break, especially if the unit rattles around as well?

Future log vape manufacturers should keep in mind to make the resistor as easy to replace as possible. The resistors are very cheap, so its possible to order a few and be secure for the next decade or so.
 
HoneyAir,
jackmormon

jackmormon

Well-Known Member
HoneyAir said:
Interesting... since mine was broken in half too when I found it.

I wonder if after several years of use the heat finally makes it brittle enough to crack and break, especially if the unit rattles around as well?

Future log vape manufacturers should keep in mind to make the resistor as easy to replace as possible. The resistors are very cheap, so its possible to order a few and be secure for the next decade or so.
Click to expand...

This has been achieved by Alan with his HI unit. He provides a simple tool that makes replacing the heating element as easy as screwing out a light bulb and a screwing the new one in! Suuuuhweeet!
 
jackmormon,
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Rick

Rick

Zapman
The new design of the CRZ also allows for easy heater replacement. Ours must be re-soldered from the bottom but it comes out, through the bottom, very easily. The plug stays in place.
The traditional old log vape design was a real bitch to change a heater.
The truth is, heaters very rarely need replacing. That is my opinion after making Zaps for over ten years. We have had some going for several years. Loose heatports and banging around the unit itself may cause them to break but not much else.
 
Rick,
T

ThCombustion

Well-Known Member
Hey guys Im sure this has been aswered but please help. I couldnt find out using search. Ive lost the clip that holds the screen in the tube. What is it called¿ Where can I get them¿ And what size are they¿ Thanks guys.
 
ThCombustion,
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