Discontinued Purple-Days Vaporizer

Rick

Rick

Zapman
Kinda neat I can respond to this page of this thread about this subject.

THC, those are 1/4" internal retaining rings that hold the screen in place.
If you send me an Email to zapman@aromazap.com with your address, I will send you some screens and clips. If you want to go big time, spend $12 and get the full screen kit which has a removal rod and an installation rod besides extra screens and clips. http://aromazap.com/accessories/screen-replacement-kit
Not the same as the pic as no metal rod and small tin but everything you need is in the kit.

Seriously, Tom and PD did advance the reputation of the log vape and this is page 420 of his thread. Maybe a hurrah or two for him and Pam is in order.
 
HoneyAir

HoneyAir

Well-Known Member
When I contacted Pam about this in the last couple of years, she said that the rings are more like training wheels and that it works better without the rings.

Without the rings the screen is more likely to flip if you poke in there, but it sure has worked very well for me in that the vastly reduced buildup means I do much less cleaning.

Those rings can be found at any auto parts store, they would have a box of all kinds of rings and you'd go for the 1/4".

Here's to you Tom and Pammy, many thanks for your contribution to the evolution of the log vape!

You too, Rick. :)
 
HoneyAir,
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jeffp

jeffp

psychonaut/retired
I have found that it's a very simple thing to position a screen back into a stem - I use a bamboo skewer, and I personally don't bother with the retaining rings at all. Its slightly more involved than changing a screen in a pipe and less involved than changing a screen in a whip vape wand (pre "ez change"). It's just a matter of feel and it's a liberating feeling that you can easily change a screen when it gunks up if you choose to.
 
jeffp,
T

ThCombustion

Well-Known Member
I have heard several people claim it can be used without the retaining clips. I have tried this several times since losing the clips. It never goes in flat, always at an angle. If you try to get it flat all it does is push the screen further inside the tube. Then, if your like me and like to pack it a bit, all this does is...you guessed it push it further down the tube. I'd appreciate any suggestions in helping me learn to use the tubes without clips. The only place I could find that had 1/4" Internal retaining ring was Ace hardware.
 
ThCombustion,
jeffp

jeffp

psychonaut/retired
Do you put the screen in through the tip end or the mouthpiece end? I think it's easier through the tip end, and then once it's inside the stem I sort of work it from both ends, nudging it in place and when it's seated it's done.
 
jeffp,
HoneyAir

HoneyAir

Well-Known Member
ThCombustion,

Did you ever order screens from Pam and Tommy and get the wooden dowel with the purchase?

If not, get one from a hardware store. If it is too slightly big to fit, you can squeeze the tip with a tool all around the circumference to make it smaller and fit [had to do this with the dowel I received]. It is perfect for getting the screen to go in perfectly and flat the first time without having to adjust it.

If there are ever problems with the screen not staying in place, it has to be large enough to stay firmly so flatten it out if there is anything to flatten. If its too large, you can trim it a little bit until its the perfect size.

Good luck!
 
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ThCombustion

Well-Known Member
Ive tried a hole punch. Once I press down the two sides are stuck together. When I pull them apart the screen is always only partially cut and pulling it or else destroys it.
 
ThCombustion,
momofthegoons

momofthegoons

vapor accessory addict
ThC, for the life of me I can't understand why you wouldn't take Rick up on his offer to send you a couple. Then you would have a template... :shrug:
 
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ThCombustion

Well-Known Member
momofthegoons said:
ThC, for the life of me I can't understand why you wouldn't take Rick up on his offer to send you a couple. Then you would have a template... :shrug:
Click to expand...

His solution works in the long term, not the short. I was trying to find a more immediate solution, which I did. Thanks for the help to everyone else.
 
ThCombustion,
Brother Brigham

Brother Brigham

King, Priest and Ruler over Israel on Earth
Here is a session for Tom and Pammy...forever, thanks you two!
Glad to see this thread alive.
Glad that Rick and UD have stepped up in helping the PD community.
Glad for 27 young ass wives too...just glad today.
 
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
tonuzzi said:
i just vaped a stem for Tom and Pammy too! Love my PDs
Click to expand...

Mine's on it's way. The PD is heating even now. I'm thinking of taking it to the garden (on the battery pack) later, but it still is cold out now....

OF
 
OF,
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
dabubblaboy said:
How do I get to the resistor? I took out the snap ring with tweezers haha but now what do I do?

Thanks :)
Click to expand...

I believe you need to hack your way through the base. There's a plywood plug under the leather glued in well. Once inside you need to cut the leads to the resistor (they go through two small holes between upper and lower section) before it will come out the top.

Perhaps some kind soul who's done it will come enlighten us both? Otherwise I understand there are folks (Rick??) who will do it for you if you send it off.

Good luck, please keep us posted?

OF
 
OF,
D

dabubblaboy

Well-Known Member
OF said:
I believe you need to hack your way through the base. There's a plywood plug under the leather glued in well. Once inside you need to cut the leads to the resistor (they go through two small holes between upper and lower section) before it will come out the top.

Perhaps some kind soul who's done it will come enlighten us both? Otherwise I understand there are folks (Rick??) who will do it for you if you send it off.

Good luck, please keep us posted?

OF
Click to expand...
Yeah that worked. I only had to cut one wire as the other one was already broken off from the resistor, no wonder it wasn't working :\.

Does anybody know the specifics of the wires used?

Here's what I'm going to use to replace the resistor: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?sku=70023233
It should be the exact same one.
 
dabubblaboy,
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
dabubblaboy said:
Yeah that worked. I only had to cut one wire as the other one was already broken off from the resistor, no wonder it wasn't working :\.

Does anybody know the specifics of the wires used?

Here's what I'm going to use to replace the resistor: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?sku=70023233
It should be the exact same one.
Click to expand...

Good progress. I agree, the open lead is going to be a problem until you fix it. The electrons are going to bunch up at the end, a few will get lost, but most will just stay there.....

AFAIK the wire used to extend the leads is plain old tin plated copper buss wire. I'd use 18 ga or so. The current is low enough so it doesn't matter, but it needs some rigidity. I'd keep the original resistor leads as long as possible (keep the splice as cool as possible in service).

Remember, Tom was a bug on lead free (solder), I'm not so sure how I feel about that......your call.

Thanks for the update.

OF
 
OF,
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