Post-Processing Rosin - Your wish, after the squish

[invertedisdead]

I have a marble plate which I use sometimes (put it in the freezer).. but did not really help... I put the parchment all night in the freezer nothing changed I can not collect it from parchment it smears gets "soaked" in the parchment it is really oily... will let it outside and see if it will change... to much water in the flowers should not be the problem (it is proper cured)... it is also only this one flower (strain) acting like this...

Try using something aluminum, or stainless steel. It will conduct heat much better to collect rosin.

Leaving the rosin open in the freezer tends to introduce more moisture, so it's not really advised.

The first lower temp is also much cleaner on the dab surface..

That's what I mean, whenever I repress flower the quality seems different compared to if I would have just pressed the whole thing at that temp.

 

[LesPlenty]

the quality seems different compared to if I would have just pressed the whole thing at that temp.

Yes but that overall quality will be lower than the first press low temp run.

 

[Sick Vape]

how would you heat the parchement ... on rosin plates?
But honestly I would not recommend taking of the cotton from q-tip... aren´t they glued with something n the stick... do not think inhaling glue is good for your health...


I love this whole rosin thing but it is so sticky it is a pain in the a. to work with it... I have a motar and sai taf and it is even not easy to load them with rosin... best way to consume is with a nector collector in my opinion like terp pen... I do not get it why other vape pen producer do not realize it... it is really easy to load you only have to tip the front of coil in rosin...

and why are a lot trying to budder up the rosin... last time I have read it was a marketing trick by dispensaries to sell not so good stuff to people... do not know if it is true...

and I also can confirm the older your material the more it will not budder up automatically after pressing...

I just tried to put a "non-collectable" runny rosin on parchment in a v-form in the pre-heated oven. I have a gas oven, so the lowest heat I can achieve is around 280°F. I switched it off and let it cool a little before I put the parchement.
Don't do it. Some of the rosin did run and pool at the fold as I wanted. But most droplets were too small to run down the parchment. It might work better for bigger loads.
But for small quantities it is not worth the trouble.

The other half of the parchment I put on top of the room-heating at moderate temps. We will see how it reacts.
Leaving it open at room temperature for a couple of days has worked for me for some other rosin previously. Just don't step on it with your socks.
For this one I probably will need to find a new way.

Up to now I am no big friend of repressing. I do it when the yield of the first press seems very low.
But this might all change depending on my experience and the strains used.

 

[MonkeyTime]

Decided to jump in with both feet once I saw that Amazon had both the Dabpress sauce plates and collection plate, and added a mini washing machine for the fun of it. We're going to try some live rosin in the next day or two here!

I've tried decarbing my rosin in my Nova, but I think it's over processing it a bit, so the sauce plate is going to get a try, after a run or two to get back into the bubble swing of things with new equipment.

I'm a ways off for bulk material to play with, but once it gets here, I want to try a lot of variations with the same material to see what changes. My thoughts were to create a baseline standard and then change one thing at a time to monitor differences.

 

[shredder]

I've found sappy rosin to be strain related for the most part. On those strains I like to use lower temps and leave the parchment in the freezer for days sometimes. A frost free freezer should help with drying. I've also just left it out to air dry, but with limited success.

Also those same buds that make sappy rosin sometimes change over time and in a few months the rosin is much more collectible.

I ussually do two presses and mix the two. IME if I have a poor return on the first press it's more on the second and vice versa. But if I run into dirty rosin (plant material) I keep that separate and when I collect a fair amount I put it in a fine mesh bag and repress at low temps and low pressure.

On the other end of the scale hard stiff rosin I keep folding and mixing in a silicone mat. Your hands ussually provide enough heat to make it pliable. Only once did I need to add more heat (a coffee warmer for maybe 20 seconds). This sometimes will budder up rosin that isn't all ready buddered. And I prefer budder for handling, and i like a thin slab for filling gram containers and what not.

As long as I'm at it, I use both silicone containers and glass. I'm a caregiver and have patients that have preferences. I make sure to pre wash, rinse, and dry the containers. It may not seem warranted but I ussually have dirty water from the containers. Sometimes I've found white powder (talcum) left from molds on Chinese silicone containers.

I store in Mylar zip lock bags. I use oxygen scavenger packs in the bags and it all goes in the freezer.

 

[ClearBlueLou]

Agreed, certain stuff just has to sit out for a day or two.

That's why I believe thats often water in the oil, making flower rosin difficult to collect.

I really don’t see how there would be water in the pressed rosin, especially after re-heating.

I mean, the goo is manufactured by the gland and stored in the trichome’s head. The goo is totally water-averse and does not mix, ever, even if we assume that the plant for some reason supplies water to the goo. Add in the moisture content of the herb you’re squeezing, and it seems more likely to me that any accompanying water would get steamed off/soaked up during the press. Since they don’t mix, I think we’d see it on the parchment if there were water in the pressed goo.

 

[shredder]

I really don’t see how there would be water in the pressed rosin, especially after re-heating.

I mean, the goo is manufactured by the gland and stored in the trichome’s head. The goo is totally water-averse and does not mix, ever, even if we assume that the plant for some reason supplies water to the goo. Add in the moisture content of the herb you’re squeezing, and it seems more likely to me that any accompanying water would get steamed off/soaked up during the press. Since they don’t mix, I think we’d see it on the parchment if there were water in the pressed goo.

I've squeezed rosin from fresh cut buds, like just several days from being cut that made for a wet gooey rosin. A mess really. But a couple of weeks later the rosin was great.

Gotta go with @invertedisdead on this. I've seen it fairly often.

Your saying water and (hash) doesn't mix, but rosin also has plant waxes that I assume do hold some moisture.

Whether the moisture is in the wax or oil, in any case I learned to age buds at least a couple weeks before pressing.

 

[superdang9000]

I've definitely had rosin that popped, sizzled, and steamed from too much moisture.

 

[ClearBlueLou]

Hope I don’t end up coming across badly here...

I've squeezed rosin from fresh cut buds, like just several days from being cut that made for a wet gooey rosin. A mess really. But a couple of weeks later the rosin was great.

Gotta go with @invertedisdead on this. I've seen it fairly often.

Your saying water and (hash) doesn't mix, but rosin also has plant waxes that I assume do hold some moisture.

Whether the moisture is in the wax or oil, in any case I learned to age buds at least a couple weeks before pressing.

Simply, I’m saying resin, rosin, goo can have water on it but not in it. Water is not a product of the gland or a component of the goo. The two substances do not mix (try it) - it’s the whole ‘dissolves in fat/alcohol, not in water’ thing. Waxes are more like goo than like water, and without a chemical analysis of pressed goo showing the presence of waxes, that seems like a dead end to me, from the standpoint of “getting water into the goo. I don’t have a special case to make, I’m just applying what basic science I remember...which tells me that waxes are far more likely to end up in a solvent extraction than in a pressing.

Not surprised you’d get both moisture and resin when pressing fresh-cut, there’s far more water in fresh bud tissues that there even could be in the trichomes

I've definitely had rosin that popped, sizzled, and steamed from too much moisture.

I’ve made concentrate with ETOH and ISO, and have had *it* spark, pop, and sizzle...and with further heating and resting, it’s gone away; no pressing of mine has ever yielded the Rice Krispies effect, but I’ve only had access to “up-market commercial” which is typically tumbled free of trichomes heads long before it gets to me.

Not that I have made tons of squeezings, or think of myself as another Wile E., just another question-asker.
Certainly not here to derail the conversation, just trying to make sense out of it all.

thanks for your patience...

 

[shredder]

Simply, I’m saying resin, rosin, goo can have water on it but not in it. o

By in it I simply meant in solution, not dissolved in it. That it does dry pretty much confirms that.

My point is that if you press buds too fresh, or like some I've read that use water on buds to rehydrate, your asking for a mess at some point.

It does kinda bother me that we still can't predict a lot about pressing and collecting. I press quite a bit, probably a lb and a half a year, and I'm still surprised at times. Especially with new varieties. And it seems we all have different gear, press in different conditions, so it makes it hard to compare, or to give anything but general advice.

 

[ClearBlueLou]

By in it I simply meant in solution, not dissolved in it.

a solution has something dissolved in a solvent - something that will dissolve it. it’s how you get one.

sorry, I talk about something else now.

 

[Sick Vape]

Lets say water and rosin can mix. I have experienced sizzling rosin too, from too wet material. But it is not dissolved and not in solution from a chemical viewpoint.

 

[invertedisdead]

I really don’t see how there would be water in the pressed rosin, especially after re-heating.

I mean, the goo is manufactured by the gland and stored in the trichome’s head. The goo is totally water-averse and does not mix, ever, even if we assume that the plant for some reason supplies water to the goo. Add in the moisture content of the herb you’re squeezing, and it seems more likely to me that any accompanying water would get steamed off/soaked up during the press. Since they don’t mix, I think we’d see it on the parchment if there were water in the pressed goo.

If the water and oil didn't mix, then you could press fresh flower.

Pure oil would not sizzle and pop.

 

[LesPlenty]

Found the following that may be of interest to post press processors,
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electri...089176&hash=item2883405fb0:g:DwIAAOSwCdxdWMXf

Save the press plate heaters.

 

[superdang9000]

Found the following that may be of interest to post press processors,
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electri...089176&hash=item2883405fb0:g:DwIAAOSwCdxdWMXf

Save the press plate heaters.

Amazon has a limited sale on it right now too!

https://www.amazon.com/COSORI-CO194...rmer&qid=1571240242&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-4

Reviews seem to say it doesn't heat as well as just maintaining a temp, though.

 

[Sick Vape]

I have one of these on order as my latest instrument of frustration,
https://www.fasttech.com/product/9694246

If they are any good I will get a few of them.

Are you happy with it?
I had a spatula with a very thin flexible rectangular shape tip for years before it broke. I wish I could get a similar of equal quality. It was great for scraping sticky oil off glass vials. It would be great for all kind rosin textures now.

 

[BabyFacedFinster]

On the other end of the scale hard stiff rosin I keep folding and mixing in a silicone mat. Your hands ussually provide enough heat to make it pliable. Only once did I need to add more heat (a coffee warmer for maybe 20 seconds). This sometimes will budder up rosin that isn't all ready buddered. And I prefer budder for handling, and i like a thin slab for filling gram containers and what not.

So I am ready to post-process some of my fresh pressed rosin. I have a gram of Blue Dream rosin that I pressed about 2 days ago and it is a chunk of glass-like rock candy. I tried the first pressing at 190F and the second pressing at 220F. The first was a bit lighter in color than the second press, but both turned into instant shatter a moment after pressing. In fact, I needed to keep warming the parchment on the heated bottom plate in order for the rosin to be collectable and not fly off the paper as tiny glass shard dust. It has great effects and great flavor but it's a pain in the ass to use. The rosin is so hard that even a heated dabber has trouble cutting through it.

I was thinking of leaving it on a 200F plate for several hours, but then read the above post about folding and mixing it after softening it somehow. Maybe both? I guess I'll see where the journey takes me and report back.

One cool thing about this pressing was the data collected. On my scale which measures out to the hundredths place, the mass of the pre-pressed puck was an even 5.00g. The weight of the rosin collected was 0.55g for the first press and 0.45g for the second press, giving a total of 1.00g of rosin and exactly 20.00% efficency.

 

[invertedisdead]

Agree that folding will nucleate and help promote buddering.

Heating will promote decarboxylation, which will give you more of a sap consistency.

 

[LesPlenty]

Are you happy with it?

I finally got it and it works great, so well I ordered another just to be safe, great on the parchment paper as there are no sharp bits to tear anything.
Also, it is only a few bucks, already forgotten the price as it is now 'priceless' for my rosin collecting. The whole wedge is on a taper so it is easy to rub off rosin on the silicon mat for collecting.

 

[FlyingLow]

Spend a lot of time working with one stain and you will find ways to illicit many different stabilities, colors, and quality rosins.

@BabyFacedFinster blue dream can come out downright creamy, hate reading you collected rock candy. What temps and procedures are you going through?

 

[BabyFacedFinster]

@BabyFacedFinster blue dream can come out downright creamy, hate reading you collected rock candy. What temps and procedures are you going through?

I pressed this BD a number of times but have always turned out the same consistency rosin. I pre-press a 3.5g to 5g puck and then use a 160mu bag. My temps have been between 190F and 220F and tend to press for around 2 to 2.5 minutes.

Can't complain about the taste or the high. Just wish I could get it to budder up. Tonite I have been jamming a warm Terp pen in the jar and that tends to work pretty well.

 

[FlyingLow]

Have you ever experimented around 170? I rarely press hotter.

Are you using a setup with a gauge?

 

[invertedisdead]

170F gets that really nice, hashy, C.R.E.A.M. budder!

 

[BabyFacedFinster]

Ok, now I have to try the 170. I think I have another eighth left in the jar.

Now I'm sorry, but I'm a cheap bastard. If I do a second squish at 170 instead of finishing with a 220F press, I wonder how much efficiency I will lose?

I run a DP bj6t35 which I love, but alas, no gauge. I just crank her down until I get a lot of resistance. I stop when I'm really bearing down on it. Please let me know if this sounds like bad practice. I double fold my parachment and only seldomly tear, and if then only on the second press.

 

[FlyingLow]

Do you use filter bags? I personally do, but many are having GREAT success without.

Press slow, low temp, and run a little longer. Once your puck is in place, wait 45-60 seconds and let your material soak in the heat. Add pressure slow. I never feel like I am leaving anything desirable left in the puck when I get super quality gold.

Signs you are pressing too slow- you will budder on the plates during the press. While it is DELICIOUS, it is not desirable as it actually blocks flow and oil from escaping the puck.

My presses are typically 1 minute heat soak, 2 minutes of SLOWLY feeding pressure. At this point I am flowing before I hit any real resistance on the pump. I do have a gauge, and this is the point in when it registers. Then I continue feed pressure, even slow pumps for approximately 2 minutes, or until I hit my mark on the gauge (which varies dependent on puck size and if there is one or two pucks being pressed at a time).


Your yield will also likely lighten a good bit in color in the days following your press.