Post-Processing Rosin - Your wish, after the squish
- Thread starter BabyFacedFinster
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- post processing press rosin
I see, interesting. I want/need more experience. I want to make budder too that comes off the parchment easy
Good one. Does it help?I usually do a lot of cursing during rosin collecting.
I once stepped on a parchment with rosin with my sock. It peeled off the parchment perfectly
. I had sticky prints all over the apartment after. Made me curse too. 
I never tried that collection tool.I have one of these on order as my latest instrument of frustration,
https://www.fasttech.com/product/9694246
If they are any good I will get a few of them.
Blunt chisels seem to work best,
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
My next pressing will my old homegrown Bubba Kush. I still have a lot of it left. It's about two years old now, but has an intense spicy sweetness and I lovingly care for it in a vacuum sealed mason jar with 62% Bovedas.
When I press it at 220F it comes out as the stickiest, sappiest rosin that I've made. You have to keep the parchment on a very cold surface to collect it, and when it warms again it flows like molasses.
I'm going to try pressing at around 190-200 to see if I can firm it up a bit. If not, I'll try heating the rosin at 200F for a while to see if I can get it to change form and maybe budder up.
When I press it at 220F it comes out as the stickiest, sappiest rosin that I've made. You have to keep the parchment on a very cold surface to collect it, and when it warms again it flows like molasses.
I'm going to try pressing at around 190-200 to see if I can firm it up a bit. If not, I'll try heating the rosin at 200F for a while to see if I can get it to change form and maybe budder up.
I believe the fresher the bud is, the easier it budders up.
I am eager to see what you can do with your Bubba Kush @BabyFacedFinster.
I am eager to see what you can do with your Bubba Kush @BabyFacedFinster.
FlyingLow
Team NO SLEEP!
I rarely press hotter than 175 and don't have trouble buttering.
I can't reach 2000psi on the gauge though (unless pressing 2 pucks at once), my bags blowout around 1750psi.
I press lower and longer than many I read about, and returns are more than satisfactory (15-24% strain dependent)
First 45 seconds I just let it the puck soak a little heat. Then start slowly applying pressure, and the bag is visibly wet and beginning to run before the two minute mark- when the timing and pressure is right, this happens before the press even registers on the gauge. Slowly feed pressure for another 2- 2.5 minutes until the run stops.
It can butter while still on the plates but really this is not preferable. The reasoning is simple, when you butter up directly around the puck during the squish the solid masses really block flow/yield from escaping away from the puck. You really want the product to run off the plates, or at least for the buttering to hold off until after you have collected from your parchment.
My favorite drips, then butters over the next 1-2 days.
I can't reach 2000psi on the gauge though (unless pressing 2 pucks at once), my bags blowout around 1750psi.
I press lower and longer than many I read about, and returns are more than satisfactory (15-24% strain dependent)
First 45 seconds I just let it the puck soak a little heat. Then start slowly applying pressure, and the bag is visibly wet and beginning to run before the two minute mark- when the timing and pressure is right, this happens before the press even registers on the gauge. Slowly feed pressure for another 2- 2.5 minutes until the run stops.
It can butter while still on the plates but really this is not preferable. The reasoning is simple, when you butter up directly around the puck during the squish the solid masses really block flow/yield from escaping away from the puck. You really want the product to run off the plates, or at least for the buttering to hold off until after you have collected from your parchment.
My favorite drips, then butters over the next 1-2 days.
Same here, for my first squish. The old buds just won't budder, the newer stuff does as you say, just after collection.
I have experimented and managed 3500psi on a puck without a blowout...I only managed to squeeze a bit of almost uncollectable oily nasty dirty crap though.
I might try your way to the second @FlyingLow, it never hurts to try things a little differently to see what happens.
IMO a lot of these consistencies are due to how the rosin is collected, via nucleation, etc.
If you collect the whole batch at once, "rolling" the rosin on your collection tool you'll get a different consistency than collecting little "strips" of rosin and gently placing them directly into a container one at a time.
If you collect the whole batch at once, "rolling" the rosin on your collection tool you'll get a different consistency than collecting little "strips" of rosin and gently placing them directly into a container one at a time.
That sounds great. I will have to try along your lines. Thanks for sharing.
Interesting. Could it be that something happens like when making candy. Candymakers pull and fold the hot sugar to incorporate air and make the candy opaque instead of translucent?
Definitely, People have experimented with taffy pulling rosin for a while now.
Wow. That looks tasty. Makes me want to eat some.
btka
Well-Known Member
pressed some rosin ... pressed one with 230 f it is so fluid... I can not get it from parchement.... also put it in the freezer and it did not change really... do not know how I should get it of parchemnt or what else I should do with it... next time i will try to let it drip in glass container... from the consistency you could fill it in a cart I think but yeah do not know how good it would work (wax lipids and so) ... also first I have to check how I can collect this rosin so I am not wasting to much...
Instead of sticking the whole thing in the freezer, try putting an ice pack or something cold from the freezer under the parchment when collecting. Should help solidify things.
You could also try dropping the temperature to 170f, you can always repress at higher temps.
I only ever got the oily noncollectable rosin from a high temp, high-pressure press.
If nothing helps, you could also try to go the other way and heat the parchment to get your rosin liquid enough to pour it in a container.
If ther is still some left on the parchment, you can use clean cotton (q- or hemp wool (pre-vaporised if necessary) to wipe it clean. You can vaporize that same as plant material then.
edit: I sometimes use organic q-tips to clean something, pull off the cotton and vaporize it. But I do not know how clean the cotton is for vaporizing in the first place. Works with socks too
@FlyingLow What micron bag size do you use in your process?
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gunmetalshark
Glass Addict
@btka
if i encounter rly sappy rosin that wont turn stable even after the freezer i tend
to let it sit for a day or two..most of the time it gets way more stable after that...might worth a try
Agreed, certain stuff just has to sit out for a day or two.
That's why I believe thats often water in the oil, making flower rosin difficult to collect.
FlyingLow
Team NO SLEEP!
@Sick Vape I usually use the 160 bags as I think they are a little stronger, but I also press with the 90 bags.
Frankly, I do not see much difference in the two when I press. I do not notice any difference in either micron. They both result in very clean product, and no noticeable difference in my findings when using the same material.
Do you all feel any differently?
...I am starting to use more 90's simply because I am running out of 160.
Frankly, I do not see much difference in the two when I press. I do not notice any difference in either micron. They both result in very clean product, and no noticeable difference in my findings when using the same material.
Do you all feel any differently?
...I am starting to use more 90's simply because I am running out of 160.
btka
Well-Known Member
tried this also but did not help...
You could also try dropping the temperature to 170f, you can always repress at higher temps.
I only ever got the oily noncollectable rosin from a high temp, high-pressure press.
haha to be honest I wanted to try this...because I read it before... but then thought I do not want to sacrifice in yield... is the yield much less then pressing with 220 is the taste so much better when pressing with 170f?
If nothing helps, you could also try to go the other way and heat the parchment to get your rosin liquid enough to pour it in a container.
If ther is still some left on the parchment, you can use clean cotton (q- or hemp wool (pre-vaporised if necessary) to wipe it clean. You can vaporize that same as plant material then.
edit: I sometimes use organic q-tips to clean something, pull off the cotton and vaporize it. But I do not know how clean the cotton is for vaporizing in the first place. Works with socks too
@FlyingLow What micron bag size do you use in your process?
how would you heat the parchement ... on rosin plates?
But honestly I would not recommend taking of the cotton from q-tip... aren´t they glued with something n the stick... do not think inhaling glue is good for your health...
I love this whole rosin thing but it is so sticky it is a pain in the a. to work with it... I have a motar and sai taf and it is even not easy to load them with rosin... best way to consume is with a nector collector in my opinion like terp pen... I do not get it why other vape pen producer do not realize it... it is really easy to load you only have to tip the front of coil in rosin...
and why are a lot trying to budder up the rosin... last time I have read it was a marketing trick by dispensaries to sell not so good stuff to people... do not know if it is true...
and I also can confirm the older your material the more it will not budder up automatically after pressing...
You will get less yield at 170 but just repress the puck again at 220 on some new parchment to get the rest(will not be as nice as the low temp but still works medically)
I asked this same question once, imagine the mess if you tried gluing, unspin a qtip and you will see a small crimp on the rod part that is used to grab the cotton strand that will be spun onto it.
What did you use, an ice pack?
If it's really sticky stuff try something more conductive under the parchment like a metal plate from the freezer.
Most of those load as you go atomizers are very hard to load, always been easier to just take a dab. I like to warm the atty up a bit by firing for a few seconds, and then "paint" oil onto the atomizer. You can also loading more rosin onto your dabber and then load your Motar and wipe the excess rosin back in your jar, hard to get all the wax off the dab tool without just taking a dab.
Pressing flower at 170F will definitely affect yield for most genetics. Elysian Research demonstrated around 50% higher return when pressing flower at 220 vs 180. Depends on lots of factors, always gonna be dealing with quality vs quantity argument. I'm not a huge fan of re-pressing flower pucks, I feel like it soaks up oil, but if I had a drip tech press I'd probably just try ramping up temp like Elysian and dripping the higher temp stuff on a new piece of parchment.
Here's a classic video that IMO, all rosineers should familiarize themselves with!
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btka
Well-Known Member
I have a marble plate which I use sometimes (put it in the freezer).. but did not really help... I put the parchment all night in the freezer nothing changed I can not collect it from parchment it smears gets "soaked" in the parchment it is really oily... will let it outside and see if it will change... to much water in the flowers should not be the problem (it is proper cured)... it is also only this one flower (strain) acting like this...
Not in my limited experience, my yields all add up to the same, right around the 20% mark with my strain, just the percentages change with the starting temp, the lower the starting temp 160 to 175, the lower the yield but the second press at 220 will be a higher yield. The first lower temp is also much cleaner on the dab surface..