Induction Heater MAD Heaters - Innovative Dynavap Accessories

rvarick

rvarick

Well-Known Member
As an update to my earlier post(s), Mad Heaters sent me a replacement Black Revolve stem due to the double coating issue with the PVD on my first one. Happy to report after cleaning the new one that there were no signs of issues with the coating or any residue coming off. Glad to be back in business, and for the CS I received.

I also cleaned the heck out of the original stem to see if I could repurpose any of it. While the outside stem part suffered a bit of PVD loss, the mouthpiece held up thankfully. I ended up adding it and the cooling helix to a ObsidiuM to create a blacked-out XL that looks quite nice IMO. The different airport settings no longer work with the DV airport location, but the cooling, and draw resistance options are still there. I also swapped out the tip/cap with an older PhantoM as the ObsidiuM one has minimal airflow for some reason.
https://imgur.com/a/D4akUQg
 
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O

OGablogian

AKA Probeer
rvarick said:
As an update to my earlier post(s), Mad Heaters sent me a replacement Black Revolve stem due to the double coating issue with the PVD on my first one. Happy to report after cleaning the new one that there were no signs of issues with the coating or any residue coming off. Glad to be back in business, and for the CS I received.

I also cleaned the heck out of the original stem to see if I could repurpose any of it. While the outside stem part suffered a bit of PVD loss, the mouthpiece held up thankfully. I ended up adding it and the cooling helix to a ObsidiuM to create a blacked-out XL that looks quite nice IMO. The different airport settings no longer work with the DV airport location, but the cooling, and draw resistance options are still there. I also swapped out the tip/cap with an older PhantoM as the ObsidiuM one has minimal airflow for some reason.
https://imgur.com/a/D4akUQg
Click to expand...

my obsidium m cap fits very tightly on my 19m phantom tip as well.

https://imgur.com/A0DjK5e

Still ... 19M tip over the 21M one
 
acstorfer

acstorfer

Take My Money Dammit!
Got word mine shipped today. I've been watching videos and I'm really amazed at the features.
 
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RustyOldNail

RustyOldNail

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DRAW RESISTANCE CONTROL (DRC)*​

“Hold the Cap by the sides of the Digger-Outer and slide it into the grooves on the top of the Airflow Tube - you can optionally use a flathead screwdriver or your nails.”

Received mine today. From the looks of the oring in the MP “airflow tube”, it appears to be in the default mode, as described in the online manual, pasted above. (Non spinning)

QUESTION: Mine seems to be adjustable, just by turning the MP, NO NEED for a tool. Is this NORMAL?

Doesn’t appear to be any way to lock it at any given position, like FULL OPEN. The only way to visually see it’s fully open, is to look at the TINY NOTCH indicator on the airflow tube, near the two slots for cap or screwdriver.
 
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KoopiKochie

KoopiKochie

Well-Known Member
RustyOldNail said:

DRAW RESISTANCE CONTROL (DRC)*​

“Hold the Cap by the sides of the Digger-Outer and slide it into the grooves on the top of the Airflow Tube - you can optionally use a flathead screwdriver or your nails.”

Received mine today. From the looks of the oring in the MP “airflow tube”, it appears to be in the default mode, as described in the online manual, pasted above. (Non spinning)

QUESTION: Mine seems to be adjustable, just by turning the MP, NO NEED for a tool. Is this NORMAL?

Doesn’t appear to be any way to lock it at any given position, like FULL OPEN. The only way to visually see it’s fully open, is to look at the TINY NOTCH indicator on the airflow tube, near the two slots for cap or screwdriver.
Click to expand...
Have you given it is first cleaning yet? I find that after some use, a little bit of reclaim and saliva build up on the o-ring of the mouth piece and give it enough friction so that if you were to spin the mouthpiece, it will also turn the DRC. After a cleaning, the mouthpiece is stiffer in spinning but doesn't really spin the DRC tube.
 
KoopiKochie,
666Honeybadger

666Honeybadger

Unknown member
RustyOldNail said:
QUESTION: Mine seems to be adjustable, just by turning the MP, NO NEED for a tool. Is this NORMAL?
Click to expand...

This is not 'normal', it's not that you need a tool to turn it but it shouldn't move when you just turn the mp.
Afaik this can be caused by the o-ring on the drc-tube. (Think i read a comment from Brenyo about this somewhere)
When using the green one this can happen, something with the tolerances of the o-rings. I had the same problem on one of my devices and swapping to a black o-ring on the drc-tube solved that issue.
I can turn it with my fingernail but it doesn't move along with the mp any longer.
 
RustyOldNail

RustyOldNail

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666Honeybadger said:
This is not 'normal', it's not that you need a tool to turn it but it shouldn't move when you just turn the mp.
Afaik this can be caused by the o-ring on the drc-tube. (Think i read a comment from Brenyo about this somewhere)
When using the green one this can happen, something with the tolerances of the o-rings. I had the same problem on one of my devices and swapping to a black o-ring on the drc-tube solved that issue.
I can turn it with my fingernail but it doesn't move along with the mp any longer.
Click to expand...

Interesting, as I assumed with the instructions showing fingernail or screwdriver, that it should NOT spin after you set your desired position. Mine came installed with the BLACK oring installed.

Thought I’d try the GREEN one, but unfortunately, there was only ONE spare “green” oring included, and it’s slightly larger then the one used on the DRC tube. Even all the spare orings I bought are the black LARGER ones. However, since I also bought the additional “DIRECT” tube, it has the smaller GREEN oring. Tried using that one, made NO difference.

It’s a shame, as it’s now something I’ll have to constantly CHECK, as the MP moves enough with basic handling, and will change the chosen setting, and it’s not easy to see the alignment with just that tiny cutout indicator on the end of the DRC tube, and visually line it up with the icon on the airport adjustment collar. Oh well, nothing is perfect….
 
RustyOldNail,
TommyDee

TommyDee

Vaporitor
I think I hear @Brenyo coming down the hall. There is an o-ring inside the worx, the helix tube, that is meant to hold tight to the smaller tube through the mouthpiece. I suspect there is either a problem with that o-ring or an improperly cut internal o-ring groove. Either way, Bren will help you out.
 
RustyOldNail

RustyOldNail

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@Brenyo

Well, not one to give up… looking at my MVS…

I tried a few drops of PEG 200, a PG juice, NG. Then cleaned that off, and with a toothpick, used a TINY amount of Burt’s BEES WAX, any brand will do. A very LIGHT coating. This time applied it to the single black oring in the DRC “stock” insert, as well as the TWO GREEN orings in the main twisted cooling unit. Now it’s obviously easier to set the AIRPORT setting, as I like to close it, same as my MVS, to straw suck the herb from a Chico container, then set it to my desired airflow. The wax in the top oring, now allows the MP to spin, without MOVING the draw resistance setting, which I chose to leave wide open, most of my DV TIPS need more airflow, NOT less draw.

My opinion on this is, that’s it’s quite commendable to take on ALL these FEATURES, from a mechanical standpoint, considering the tight tolerances. It does function as designed now, in my case, after adding the WAX LUBE. I’ve read others reporting this issue as well, so try this. It adds a bit of extra maintenance now and then and while not a big deal for me, some may not be as diligent, and they should monitor if the orings start to grab and turn the draw resistance you set previously.

Personally, I think it would be better in the future to offer a MP assembly that SPINS for those using a lighter, and an alternate one for those like me that only uses an IH. The basic DV stem has no spinning MP, but folks spin those. To still include the ability to securely set the restriction, might cost a bit more. Off the top of my head, a type of CAM, where you push the tip in a bit, it grabs the cams and twists the inner section, then you release. This is certainly another design and manufacturing challenge, but from what I can see by the excellent machining, these folks could be up to it.

I won’t compare cooling to the MVS, since that’s tough to measure, and in the end quite SUBJECTIVE. The ALL BLACK Revolve stem is very beautiful and functional, and has a totally different esthetic then the classy MVS. I’m happy to own them both!
 
RustyOldNail

RustyOldNail

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TommyDee said:
I think I hear @Brenyo coming down the hall. There is an o-ring inside the worx, the helix tube, that is meant to hold tight to the smaller tube through the mouthpiece. I suspect there is either a problem with that o-ring or an improperly cut internal o-ring groove. Either way, Bren will help you out.
Click to expand...

I’ve seen this kind of issue before. Granted, I’m certainly no engineer, but when you ask for a connection to do TWO things, in this case, spin just enough to NOT spin the inner mechanism, but allow that inner mechanism to be able to spin slightly to set it. Doing both things via orings is crazy hard considering all the physical tolerances in play here. At least in my case, an added lubricant makes it even possible.
 
RustyOldNail,
TommyDee

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Never thought of it that way. My mouthpiece was never that tight. I have the option for free spinning and 'restricted'. The 'pin' itself is well fastened in the spiral element by the internal o-ring. I don't tend to use lubes though. I also don't use the adjust method, I just stab it in the right wide open mode before putting it into the stem.
 
TommyDee,
RustyOldNail

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
TommyDee said:
Never thought of it that way. My mouthpiece was never that tight. I have the option for free spinning and 'restricted'. The 'pin' itself is well fastened in the spiral element by the internal o-ring. I don't tend to use lubes though. I also don't use the adjust method, I just stab it in the right wide open mode before putting it into the stem.
Click to expand...

Sometimes you need nothing more then a quince stem…. And no orings…

I bought this mostly because it looked like a real nice BLACK, I recently bought the DV “Obisdian”, knowing I’d be getting the Revolve, and pair the tip with it, even though all my tips are titanium, not SS. And of course the member reviews here, discounting the MVS haters, that the machining was good, and it was a PREMIUM device. However, when paying for a premium device, I would like to take advantage of the advertised FEATURES. If one is not using or testing the advanced features, they might miss some of the negatives. I even bought the loader decapper because it looked cool, but I vape at home, maybe someday I’ll take it on a trip, but it’s nice to support a new vendor.

Having temporarily solved the issue, by adding a tiny amount of beeswax, and I’m happy with the kit.
 
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Brenyo

Brenyo

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
RustyOldNail said:
@Brenyo
Click to expand...

This part works slightly differently on each Revolve because of the very tight tolerances and the o-rings hardness difference (this wasn't expected unfortunately). The black is stiffer so it will hold more firmly.

As I planned it when the mouthpiece is in stop position it should turn the DRC, however not accidentally (like when you're fluttering or spinning it).
If you remove the o-ring from the small tube that will put it in spinning mode - in this case the DRC can't be adjusted with the MP. You shouldn't lube any of the 2 small o-rings, just the 2 larger one on the cooler. The o-ring pack has 3 smaller and 7 larger o-rings, they just look very similar in size :) Try to set the desired resistance by changing the color combination of the 2 smaller o-rings ( one on the airflow tube and the other one is behind the symbols in the cooler, where the tube goes into)
As for adjusting it just use your nail if you can, that's the easiest.

The manal is not very good atm, sorry about that. I'll update as soon as I get a chance.

RustyOldNail said:
it’s not easy to see the alignment with just that tiny cutout indicator on the end of the DRC tube, and visually line it up with the icon on the airport
Click to expand...

I agree, it's hard to set it precisely without seeing the DRC hole on the inside, however setting it to open should be no problem, it doesn't have to align perfectly. I couldn't figure out how to make it easier to adjust from the end of the MP without some crazy design changes until a few days ago... this feature will be updated on the next batch so it will be easier to set it precisely without pulling out the cooler from the Ti body.
 
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Momor

Momor

Well-Known Member
@RustyOldNail, I'm not sure at all but I think your problem could come from the fact that you're making the MP spin while it's set to the "blocked" position (the o-ring placed in the groove of top part of the little tube that goes in the MP).
The thing is that even in it's blocked setting it's not completely blocked and can still spin.
I was also surprised a first that when spinning my MP the DRC would also move. Then I understood that the MP was set to the "blocked" position actually.
When the MP is set as to spin, it's really spinning freely and then there is no way it could make the DRC tube move while spinning. You may have waxed the little o-ring on top of the DRC tube to make the MP spin more freely and thus not catch the DRC tube with it but that's not the way to set the spinning MP.
Hope all that makes sense and sorry if I just misunderstood what you described.
 
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