Life Saber (LSV) by Elev8 Vehicles

[Frederick McGuire]

It's not possible to use one of the Tamers without the whip right? cheaply anyway.

You can put a screen in the male joint of the tamer.
Then you just use the tamer like a transfer wand.

 

[Heos]

You just need a way to attach the hose to it; a $15 vape adapter will do the trick (I think 7th floor might even sell these). Or you could probably just jam the hose in the end of the male joint

I know I can use the tamer with the hose, my question was can I use it without the hose.

Thanks Frederick.

I guess that would mean my bowl would be pretty darn cold xD, still doable. I'd probably use the shorty if I got that.

 

[Tuck]

OH yea, you can use the vapor tamer without the hose. Just use it like your transfer wand.

 

[stickstones]

Its great as is but the loose heater cover makes me a little nervous.

Mine isn't loose at all. You may need some shims or something that was mentioned way back in this thread when the unit first came out.

 

[PDwasmy1st]

Ion, DBV, MFLB, VapoStar, Iolite, Genie.

I never hit the Buddha thru water.

The LSV is just so much fun to use and hitting it thru water was not only cloudy, but man..........the taste. I remember going from the Genie to the PD. I was amazed at how much better the PD tasted. Kinda the same thing going from the PD to the LSV, but not quite as extreme.

It's just the DRASTIC difference in air flow, taste, and size of hit going from 4 years straight just using the PD..............to the LSV.

I can really see how ones consumption can go up with this thing. Not because it isn't efficient. It is. I can load up a PD stems worth and get just as high on that amount thru the LSV as I did thru the PD, but with that small amount, I liked the PD experience better. But load up 2 PD stems worth in the LSV, and it's a whole new ballgame.

Those hits on the LSV site are those really vapor clouds?
http://lifesabervaporizer.com/info/lsv-videos.html
To me they look as thick as smoke! is there any chance of combustion with this vaporizer? and is it just because the chamber is bigger or is the air flow better aswell compared to a PD.

Really tempted to get one of these , especially reading about lwien.

 

[lwien]

Not smoke. Vapor. As a matter of fact, I've gotten vapor that was more dense coming out of my PD than what was on that vid, but my PD runs very much on the hot side.

Regarding combustion, while others have said that they can reach combustion temps, I haven't found that to be so, but I'm hitting a bowl that is only a quarter full, and hitting my beaker through the transfer wand. I should be receiving my "short" wpa by Friday or Sat and this "could" have an affect on reaching those combustion temps. Will report back. But as of now, setting the temp to max setting gets my ABV to the exact color that I desire.

 

[stickstones]

I was experimenting with my duff the other day and loaded up the shorty bowl. Turned the heat all the way up and immediately combusted. Then I loaded up the transfer wand while my bubbler was soaking. I packed this one the same and turned it down to three and combusted. So, yes, you can combust, which makes sense due to its third function being a lighter.

Then I took it to a party with my tall wpa. With the longer stem and more people we were putting some pretty impressive loads in there and hitting it forever. I was getting very smoke-like clouds, so, yes again, this thing can make a really thick hit. I think all five of us got heavily blasted off two bowls. I then came home and continued my duff experiment using the tall wpa and a temp of about 2:30 to 3. I was able to get some satisfying hits for sleepy time...may have to do this regularly.

 

[lwien]

Ok, so with my LSV, I can't get anywhere near combustion. To get a medium brown, I need to max it out, so I checked my HC and here's my question. Should it be pushed all the way down so it's touching those three screws? Mine is sitting about a quarter of an inch above those screws.

 

[stickstones]

I don't know, but I don't think so. I think that gap is there for the shims to do their thing. Keep in mind, my combustion was with a highly packed shorty wpa with the unit turned all the way up and ample time to get really hot.

 

[lwien]

Sticks, do you pack your shorty (that is, tamp it down) or is it just loosely put in?

 

[stickstones]

loose. and I rarely use more than 3 or 4 PD stems worth at a time.

 

[lwien]

Understood.

So far, I'm using about 2 stems worth.

Just want to be clear here though. I can milk my HVY Mini-beaker with the LSV at 1:00 and the ABV after that one hit is barely a golden brown. I can even get a few more hits at that setting and get the same results. I can take a fresh bowl of 2 stems worth and crank it up to max and this hit is more dense and a little harsher, but the ABV is still below the color of what I got from my hot running PD, which was a mixture of very dark brown with some black specks. Bottom line though is that at max, the temp is just about where I want it to be, but still, below combustion levels. No black specks whatsoever. Others claim that if they go past 2:00, they combust so I'm just wondering what's goin' on here. Haven't tried packing 3 or 4 stems worth though. (oh............taking long slow draws).

LOL. On the other hand, I guess I shouldn't complain being that I really don't want to combust and the LSV is giving me the right temp that I desire. It's just that I have to max it out to get there. Some, I guess, would consider this a positive in that it takes combustion out of the equation.

Ya think I'm over-thinking this?

 

[stickstones]

it's your first variable temperature vaporizer. the purple days gets everything dark brown. give the lower temperatures a try and I think you will like it.

 

[Deadshort480]

Kaboom!

Just got the new ash catcher from Jambandphan (thank you) and this thing definitely adds an extra kick. I've gotta get a pic that shows the whole thing milked up, but trust me... No joke.

 

[wunderkind]

Got an LSV right after the election to celebrate prop 64 passing here in Colorado. Awesome vape kit.

@lwien, how far is your heating element extended? I remember reading a few pages back that it should be showing the dash mark after the "STD" printing. As you can see in the picture below, the element on my LSV is even a bit past the dash. I can tell you that I'm not having to run mine at max temp to get the abv a pretty dark brown. 3-oclock is plenty on mine. normally I'm more in 12-1 range. Especially when using the transfer wand. Just a thought that your heating element might need to be adjusted.

Also, I take it that the metal shim everyone is talking about is the piece at the base that holds the heating element in place? My glass HC definitely fits all the way down until it's touching the 3 screws.

 

[PDwasmy1st]

I hope you'll humor me as I air old videos ...
1- 3 hits with a long transfer wand
2- 1 hit with a shirt transfer wand
3- a cloudy wand hash session

This last video is the best. You will not believe the vapor quality here!

Next time I will do some LSV Vapor Tamer, and Water tool vids~

Huge!!! hits , is there a lot of herbs in the 1st 2 clips? how many compared to a pd stem? can you use oil say if you put some on some leaf ? not much sucking for that amount as well almost like a fan is blowing it into your mouth! are you sucking hard? you must have thought you combusted when you 1st got this thing. thank you Vitolo.

 

[Deadshort480]

On my unit, the dial is off at just slightly past 6 o'clock. I like to start everything off at 11 o'clock and use this setting as long as I can, while stirring, until I get nothing. I bump it up to between 11 and 12 o'clock and do the same. Then I go up to 12 o'clock. Usually at this stage everything is getting pretty dark brown, bone dry, and crumbly. I can stir and get another hit between 12 and 1 o'clock. In my experimenting, I find that the load will start to combust if I go past 1 o'clock at this point. If I crank it up to 1 o'clock right in the beginning everything turns very dark brown within a few INSANELY MASSIVE hits. If I go past 2 o'clock from the get go, I get combustion.

This is all through my short WPA about half filled, but I get very similar results with my fatty vapor tamer. Again, I enjoy my greens very very dry, so this may have something to do with why I am achieving combustion. I do not use the transfer wand, so that may be another factor, but I assume it works the same as the vapor tamer.

There are a lot of factors that can have an effect on how light or dark your load can get while using this vaporizer. I can't imagine that the temperature in every unit is equally calibrated thought the travel of the dial. How long the unit is on for and set at a certain level is most likely a factor. The speed, length, and and how hard one draws definitely has a major effect. Now it seems that the length of the ceramic rod may have an effect as well. I believe that each unit may be just a bit different and that experimentation is necessary to discover exactly how you like to enjoy using the LSV. As always, what may work for some will not work for others.

 

[lwien]

Thanks guys. I will definitely check the length of the rod.

Thanks for the great pic, wunderkind. Much appreciated.

 

[NewVape]

My expierence is a lot like Wunderkind's, I'm somewhere between 12 noon and 3 pm. This gets my herb to a med/med dark. Not as dark as my Zap produces but I have that on a VV power supply and keep it kinda on the hot side. But that's a different vape and a different expierence.

 

[Deadshort480]

What is the off position location on some of your units? Like I said, mine is at just slightly past 6 o'clock.

 

[lwien]

@lwien, how far is your heating element extended? I remember reading a few pages back that it should be showing the dash mark after the "STD" printing. As you can see in the picture below, the element on my LSV is even a bit past the dash. I can tell you that I'm not having to run mine at max temp to get the abv a pretty dark brown. 3-oclock is plenty on mine. normally I'm more in 12-1 range. Especially when using the transfer wand. Just a thought that your heating element might need to be adjusted.

Man, I don't see any markings at all on the rod. Maybe mine is pushed too far in. I vaguely remember seeing the post on how to adjust this, but I can't find it. Man, I don't want to risk breaking it by just pulling on it. Thoughts?

Edit: Just went back and found that post. Will give it a shot. That must be my problem, 'cause I wasn't able to see any printing at all on that rod.

 

[wunderkind]

Glad to help. I never did adjust the element on mine, that's the way it came. Good luck!

 

[Deadshort480]

On my element I can see -100. So it appears my element is pulled out pretty far.

 

[wunderkind]

off position on mine looks to be 7oclock

 

[lwien]

Ok, so I was able to pull the rod out about a half an inch before I saw the printing. Now I have it set at the "-" mark. The rod now extends 2 inches from the base, were as before, it was an inch and half. Also, when I put back the HC, I slid all the way down so it's touching those screws. The combination of of sliding the rod out a half an inch and pushing the HC in a quarter of inch moves the heating element 3/4 of an inch closer to the screen and THAT could make all the difference in the world when it comes to temps. Will try it out later this evening.

Thanks again all.