Tek latest concentrates extraction method?
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shredder
Well-Known Member
Most all the extracts are good if properly made.
The "best" as in safest, and maybe easiest is rosin.
The term solventless says it all. That's the big rub with homemade solvent extractions. The hard part is getting all the solvents out.
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PoopMachine
Well-Known Member
Im using a Source and alcohol extraction. You can do it all in the machine if you want or move it to a vacuum chamber to get a different finish.
Sara
Member
if rosin is the easiest and safest, why we are still using butane extractions?
how did they do it? the same as butane?
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I have recently switched from butane to DME (Dimethyl Ether). This makes a product called DMO. Technique is very similar to BHO. All the same safety recommendations apply (i.e. NEVER do it indoors) but it is slightly less flamable. I prefer the flavour of DME, some say it pulls more of the terpines but I have no scientific proof to back that up. It is more efficient (I use less DME than butane). The best result is achieved with fresh buds just harvested and then frozen for 24 hours but I also get good results with my cured bud. The older the bud the darker the resin.
I have tried rosin with some hair straighteners mounted on wood so I can put them in the vice. The results look nice but I don't think is have the taste of BHO/DMO. It is also very time consuming. A single tube (70 gram dried bud) gives me between 7 and 10 grams of great DHO which lasts my wife and my myself at least 6 weeks, making that much rosin would be very time consuming although I will admit that my rosin technique is not ideal.
I have tried rosin with some hair straighteners mounted on wood so I can put them in the vice. The results look nice but I don't think is have the taste of BHO/DMO. It is also very time consuming. A single tube (70 gram dried bud) gives me between 7 and 10 grams of great DHO which lasts my wife and my myself at least 6 weeks, making that much rosin would be very time consuming although I will admit that my rosin technique is not ideal.
shredder
Well-Known Member
I don't use butane. I personally don't feel safe making it. I've used iso alcohol, ethanol, water/ice hash, dry sift hash, and lately rosin tech. But now I'm leaning on going with a bigger press and making rosin. Mainly for the ease and safety of the extraction. But also because I like using rosin and, for me, it's worry free.
I might feel different if I had invested heavy in a closed loop system, but I havn't nor do I plan on starting.
Honestly no reason not to do 2 modes of extraction. Rosin first then alcohol ect on the pressed bud. I normally dont like to do a second press but there is always a lot left. Rosin tech works best with 2 ppl IMO. A presser and a prepper/collector. You can do a large amount very quickly.
Not sure it was mentioned by the guys at boro and beyond on their insta a couple times. Can't remember the name of the company, I did briefly google it but I was stoned.
marcofreccia
New Member
Hello Guys. I see this discussion is quite old but I need some advice on getting the best out of DHO. Is it neceessary to purge the extract with DHO also ? and after the purge is it better to clean the extract with ethyl alcohol too? I've taken advice on various websites and would like to get some clarification
tokenknifeguy
Well-Known Member
Anyone ever use dry ice for ethanol or iso extract? I've done the freezer tech for both ethanol and iso but seems like the dry ice takes it to the next level. I've seen some pretty awesome looking oil from the dry ice version. Would ISO be better to use than ethanol? Is one better than the other at pulling the terps? At dry ice temps, pulling the lipids and other nasties shouldn't be a problem. I'm eventually wanting to use the oil to make some carts/pods.
AGBeer
Lost in Thought
IME its pretty binary.
Solvent vs Solventless.
Hash is hash. Dry sift/WaterBubbleBag/DryIceBubbleBag = Hash.
Concentrates can be made from ISO, Butane, Hexane, (other non polars) etc. And make a banging product. Add in the methanol extractions for edible based methods (and green/golden dragons)
And then rosin. IMO the pinnacle of solventless extractions.
You can go even deeper down this rabbit hole by even further purifying your extract(s) with winterization.
Of course depending on your end game.
Again, rosin is my go to. Quick, easy, and solventless.
That and it takes only a couple of dabs to get me to satiation.
Solvent vs Solventless.
Hash is hash. Dry sift/WaterBubbleBag/DryIceBubbleBag = Hash.
Concentrates can be made from ISO, Butane, Hexane, (other non polars) etc. And make a banging product. Add in the methanol extractions for edible based methods (and green/golden dragons)
And then rosin. IMO the pinnacle of solventless extractions.
You can go even deeper down this rabbit hole by even further purifying your extract(s) with winterization.
Of course depending on your end game.
Again, rosin is my go to. Quick, easy, and solventless.
That and it takes only a couple of dabs to get me to satiation.
Roffa
Well-Known Member
I use a cream whipping siphon with NO chargers, in which I freeze the ethanol beforehand. After decarbing, I put the weed in the siphon (10g/200g alcohol) and over 30 minutes I will charge and degas every 10 minutes. Afterwards I first strain with the Noids french press tool, then I filter that again through an aeropress. Finally I'll use the Pot to distill out the ethanol. I usually dilute the THC oil with some CBD oil and the contents of 2 liquid lecithine capsules to arrive at "my" dosage.
General Disaster
Of cabbages and Kings.
Um, er, I know this is an old post, but really?
Firstly, I very much doubt it really is dimethyl ether, seeing at that's a gas at RTP! What I strongly suspect is being written about is Diethyl ether, which is a liquid organic solvent, with an extremely low boiling point - about 35℃!
Diethyl Ether is hellishly flammable (I'm not quite sure what "slightly less flammable" means to be honest), has an exceedingly low flash point (doesn't take much heat for it to spontaneously combust), and is heavier than air and collects at ground level, creeps across the floor 'looking' for a nice thermostat or other spark or hot point (even a hot plate or steam pipe can do it!) - then wham! Flashback!
It's heaps of fun! (if you like no hair and red raw skin or worse).
If it's in a sealed container it will rapidly build up pressure due to the high vapour pressure it exerts, especially in a warm environment! One common accident is the vessel suddenly rupturing or the stopper blowing out, causing liquid and vapourous ether to energetically spill, and risk a fire (plus it has the effect of a general anaesthetic, so careful not to breath in!).
Even batman would struggle to escape ether intoxication in a closed area filling up with ether vapour while waiting for the heating thermostat to turn on! Did I mention it can form explosive air mixtures?
Do please take care with flammable organic solvents! And please try to double check facts before posting advice regarding potentially very dangerous materials and processes. People have life-changing and fatal experiences doing this sort of stuff without knowing a great deal about what they're handling. One solvent may very well not be like another. Just changing your solvent in a known and practiced method can have unexpected negative consequences.
One point of note though, as diethyl ether evaporates at a very low temperature, it's easy to strip out of your oil, if you can set up a modest low pressure rig (even a water-powered vacuum pump will do - just slips onto a tap, and no need for a cold trap as with an electric pump) and a water heater, you shouldn't have worrisome traces left in it.
All in all it can have many properties that make it good for solvent extraction, but I honestly would not advise using it unless you really know what you're doing, and ideally have wet organic chemistry experience. The likes of butane and propanol are bad enough, ether, even outdoors, has the potential to cause some nasty accidents, and not just to the user! Your neighbours may not thank you if they live!
I may come across as a bit of an 'old woman' (for want of a better and less sexist expression) but I worked in advanced chemistry labs for about 12 years and know of what I speak.
Final little tip - something most people rarely hear about - there's a device called a soxhlet extractor that's designed to do exactly the sort of job of extracting active compounds from cannabis. It's a piece of glassware that recycles clean organic solvent into a glass vessel containing a large thimble made of something like filter paper which you fill with plant material. You then leave it running and it essentially distils the solvent so it's clean, and gradually fills the glass vessel submerging the thimble and soaking the plant matter.
When it reaches the top of the vessel it automatically syphons all the solvent, now containing some of the cannabinoids and terpenes, back into the reservoir where the solvent continues to boil and send clean solvent back into the vessel via a condenser. This will continue as long as the power is on to heat it, and the condenser has water flowing through it to cool it (and condense the solvent vapour into the vessel with the thimble). It doesn't leak solvent vapour as long as the water is running while the heat is on. You can leave it going for hours and it will wash your weed with solvent many many times until there's next to nothing left in it. If you really want to get everything out, you can even finish, change to a different solvent, then let it go for another few hours, then add the two solutions together and strip off the solvents (probably not worth it though - diminishing returns and all that).
You then need to strip off the solvent in a vacuum oven or rotary evaporator (not cheap!). Use a rotevap and you get most of your solvent back - very environmental! Using low pressure will keep the temperature required to boil off the solvent to a minimum thus protecting more of your precious active compounds.
These things ain't cheap though, you'll likely pay a grand give or take for something that will take an Oz in one go. Beware of very cheap one's as they may not be made of strong high quality borosilicate glass! Genuine Quickfit glassware is expensive for a reason, if you're saving plenty its because the risks are rising higher than you can see or appreciate. It also needs a heating mantle if one not bundled. Probably best to have some silicon grease or similar to stop the quickfit glass joints jamming. And that's before you sort out your method of cleaning out the solvent from the oil. Many things to go wrong if you've not done this before and not all of them very obvious. It's not the sort of thing you should learn by doing without some expert advice at hand.
There are many extra processes to further clean it and remove lipids and fats and all sorts of non-active crap, but there again, every operation will lose a certain amount. And the rougher your technique and equipment the more you'll lose, so fewer operations tends to be more efficient.
General Disaster
Of cabbages and Kings.
Maybe check out the actual stats on the two compounds and make a comparison, rather than just assume it's gas so it's like another gas (@ rtp).
I'm not saying it couldn't be DME, but I am saying the probability is very low, and if it is true, the poster is extremely negligent in implying little difference, not explaining the changes made in process, and the risk differences etc. I mean, they even said it was less flammable! FFS! That's just plain irresponsible to my mind.
I believe I mentioned people die doing this? And it's not always just the people responsible. I'm sorry if that's being a killjoy, but I know the difference between some fun chemistry making yer own shit, and your family attending a funeral for yourself along with with your kid in the next room and his/her friend (if you get what I mean?). If I put someone off for the wrong reason, I'm just as happy, to be honest!
Peroxides are not a problem unless you're making your own diethyl ether (otherwise, storing and selling it on would be problematic). Actually, with diethyl ether, being a liquid under normal conditions, you can actually do a lot more in terms of chemistry wet techniques. You can do things like aqueous acid or alkali washes and separations to remove various elements of the mixture (diethyl ether is excellent for this!), a gas, not so much. You can easily remove the water from an organic liquid, not so easy with a gas, you can easily measure and store a liquid, not so simple for a gas, in fact generally in the lab working with gases and very low bp liquids can be a right sod at times! Is 35℃ such a difficult temperature to work with in terms of boiling off solvent? Why make life even more difficult and dangerous by using something even lower with unknown properties? Go for butane if you really need that lower temp bp, at least plenty people have experience and working methods that are established with butane, even if it's still a serious risk if not done right.
Personally I preferred 40-60℃ pet ether for cannabis extractions. Works well, but only needs hot water to boil it off (pref in a low pressure vessel) and seems to be a great solvent for cannabis extracts. But none of that hassle of dealing with butane.
Chemistry isn't the same as most normal hobbies. e.g. STP is not the same as RTP, and can actually make a difference! It's unlikely you used it without realising what I was talking about, but just using it incorrectly shows you probably are not an experienced and professional lab chemist (that's not a slight against you, unless you indeed have spent years doing just that job). You need to be extremely vigilant - by means of being educated properly, and not being arrogant enough to ignore the Dunning Kruger effect. And by the way, if you think to yourself "yeah, but I'm not that stupid..." you've just fallen for DK, and that's one way people get hurt! I mean I'm not so bothered about someone stupid enough to ignore advice and hurt themselves, but it's the others who had no choice or knowledge of what was being done yet suffered the consequences. Of course it's not beyond many people to do it reasonably safely, but would you let junior have the keys to your sports car, so she can learn how to drive on her own? Hopefully not, she'd have lessons to learn what the dangers are and how to avoid them (among other things) from someone who had lots of experience, yeah?
"But that stop sign looks similar to that 70 speed limit sign, surely they mean pretty much the same thing then?"
I'm talking generally in that I've never worked with Dimethyl Ether myself, but I have worked in organic synthesis labs long enough to know that what works for one thing may well fail disastrously for something that on the face of it seems very similar! I was just a little freaked out that someone would so casually suggest this, without giving a lot more warning and info (i.e. engaging brain, as I see it). It can be irresponsible to tempt people who simply don't know, into putting themselves and others in danger. Normally you'd start by explaining the details of the stuff itself so it can be handled and stored and used with a modicum of safety, before you even start to describe using it. The moment you make an assumption about a substance you're not familiar with, you racking up the risk factor, needlessly. (note I've not even started into health risks from direct contact with liquid or vapour).
Oh, and by the way, plenty people also end up with 'orrible burns because they didn't use butane correctly! In my opinion, too many people spend too long reading about this on the internet (and it is very compelling stuff too!) but don't have any real experience handling this stuff. The net can be terribly seductive, "hey look! you too can do this in your kitchen! just follow the recipe!" but the reality is it isn't that simple. If you want a great demo of that, follow the recipe for making nitro, that drifts aimlessly across the net, and then see if you still have an arm left when the smoke clears! (actually, it's smokeless!
). I mean, your only starting with some conc acid, and some glycerol! What's to worry about? Hmmm, looking back at all that shite, maybe I should have written it before hitting the stash?
General Disaster
Of cabbages and Kings.
Sorry about that above, I went off on one a bit, wasn't aimed at you!
It's just I've known people get hurt from these things, and read of many more, and few people have ever been told how dangerous some of this stuff can be. There's plenty to do within reasonable safety constraints, but how can you know when you've introduced a factor that could suddenly make things very dangerous without being obvious that could happen? So I understand how easy it can be to go from some fun hobby to an awful accident one day (it may be it's worked ok five times, then the six ...!).