Discontinued Imp by MistVape

[dagfp]

What's puzzling is that several other users in the various threads I frequent, using the exact same vapes I use, swear that they need to make them glow in order to get good vapor. So I really don't know, maybe they have huge lungs or they can't regulate their draw, or it's the water filtration... I dunno, prolly all at once in fact! But there has to be something in their usage pattern that requires much much more power than I need.

i dont think any definitive statement can be made whether or not coils ought to glow. each user has a gradient of abv colour they are aiming for and to achieve that requires more or less power. for what it's worth i just had a session with the temperature locked at a level with just barely visible coil glow (in a shadow) and while it worked, the abv looked like it could still be extracted further. perhaps one day i will pull out the microscope and compare the integrity of the trichomes at various abv colours...

at the lower no glow temperature the effects themselves were good but i prefer the deeper effects of a darker roast. which leads to the question of the quality of the starting product. im sure if you had top of the line crystal laden buds you would have an easier time justifying less glow as you would have absorbed a high number of cannabinoids already. the brighter glow is to get up to the 80% cannabinoid extraction range which becomes more necessary when using lower quality buds with less cannabinoids to begin with.

for me, with no glow the quality of vapor (based on throat hit and clouds) also peters out quickly while pushing it to glow gives me clouds for 10 hits+. again, the constituents of the starting product probably plays a factor in this as mine is definitely not competing for any high times cups.

I drop the temp by about 20F using a 50W max.

are you using the short stem or the even shorter stem? the shorter stem has a bigger effect on the coil temperature drop. either way, you have to adjust your breathing power to cooperate with the coils. there is a sweet spot between getting vapor to travel up the stem and into you, and not cooling the coils too much. my goal with each draw is to have the mod continually feeding power at a level below the max wattage. if my stronger inhale forces it to run at max wattage then it is probably having trouble keeping temperatures stable.

Is there a battery safety issue such that I shouldn't be stressing a single cell by maxing at 50W? And is the flood of amps at 50W potentially breaking down the coil?

https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.html

input your resistance and watts and match it up to your battery continuous discharge amp rating.

i dont think anyone knows for sure how safe coils are when dry burned and i dont want to open that can of worms but i think it's probably in every 510 users best interest to learn how to make coils or at the very least be prepared to buy and replace them once in a while...

 

[Improvaper]

Anyone experimenting with their air intake positioning? Anyone using them lined up with the ends of the coils? Just curious...

 

[DeezVaprz]

Anyone experimenting with their air intake positioning? Anyone using them lined up with the ends of the coils? Just curious...

During a live steam I asked @paytonpenn and he suggested aligning up the air intake holes perpendicular to the coils. I was actually using them parallel to the coils and was getting mixed results. I've heeded his suggestion and haven't adjusted it since. Very good airflow and vapor with only the occasional rotating of the stem needed. Very happy with the performance and results.

Speaking of the Imp, I have managed to shove it onto my RX75 with little trouble. Its real tight, but I love the way it looks and fit for on the go use. Very satisfied and still using it as an EDC for on the go fresh material use. Using TCR mode set at 185, 33 watts and ohms locked at .23 has been yielding fabulous results at about 365f. I usually bring it up to 420f when I no longer get vapor to kill the bowl and at the end am left with evenly browned material. Loving this little guy so far. Can't wait for my PH Dosing cap to come in for an even stealthier on the go device.

 

[Monk Debate]

I had planned on getting one of these but had to back out, now I might be back in again because I keep hearing such amazing things. Other than the Imp itself, are there any accessories you all feel are worth adding on with the initial purchase?

Edit: Looks like an Impcognito plus accessory pack 1 should be everything I need, other than a cooling stem.

 

[muunch]

Edit: Looks like an Impcognito plus accessory pack 1 should be everything I need, other than a cooling stem.

I got accessory pack 1, and a 2pack of the long, cooling stems.

I also ordered a 10 pack of these ruby beads as I am hoping they will fit in the shorty glass stems. Thinking that I can make a short, glass cooling stem with the shorty glass MP, the beads, and a wooden MP to keep the beads in.

Also, I posted this in the Impcognito thread, but I found a side-by-side, single 18650 mod with DNA60 chip...

http://mini-ecig.com/XvoStick

I found a used one today and it's on the way. Very excited for the potential here.

 

[Monk Debate]

Thanks! I may also reach out to Monkeyhouse for one of their stems.

 

[muunch]

Thanks! I may also reach out to Monkeyhouse for one of their stems.

oooh, i did not know sire @Monkeyhouse was doing Imp stems - I may be interested in this if you pursue it

 

[Monk Debate]

oooh, i did not know sire @Monkeyhouse was doing Imp stems - I may be interested in this if you pursue it

He is if I remember correctly, I remember reading about 14mm stems. I’ll have to double check.

 

[muunch]

He is if I remember correctly, I remember reading about 14mm stems. I’ll have to double check.

It is only the older style Imp bodies that use the ground glass stems, from what I understand.

The newer models, including the Impcognito, have straight glass stems with an o-ring system, so the required stem sizes will be different.

 

[Monk Debate]

It is only the older style Imp bodies that use the ground glass stems, from what I understand.

The newer models, including the Impcognito, have straight glass stems with an o-ring system, so the required stem sizes will be different.

Ah! Great point, and I’m glad you mentioned it before I paid for a stem I couldn’t use.

 

[Hippie]

I got accessory pack 1, and a 2pack of the long, cooling stems.

I also ordered a 10 pack of these ruby beads as I am hoping they will fit in the shorty glass stems. Thinking that I can make a short, glass cooling stem with the shorty glass MP, the beads, and a wooden MP to keep the beads in.

I tried that with some 3mm glass beads, which worked but I had to crank up the heat to much for my liking to get any vapour past them.
So now I'm using a 510 drip tip with an extra o-ring to keep the 6mm beads in the short stem on my standard imp, which work much better.

 

[muunch]

I tried that with some 3mm glass beads, which worked but I had to crank up the heat to much for my liking to get any vapour past them.
So now I'm using a 510 drip tip with an extra o-ring to keep the 6mm beads in the short stem on my standard imp, which work much better.

Damn - I will give it a go regardless and see how it is... worst case I can always use the beads in Peak so not a biggie.

 

[flammy]

During a live steam I asked @paytonpenn and he suggested aligning up the air intake holes perpendicular to the coils. I was actually using them parallel to the coils and was getting mixed results. I've heeded his suggestion and haven't adjusted it since. Very good airflow and vapor with only the occasional rotating of the stem needed. Very happy with the performance and results.

Speaking of the Imp, I have managed to shove it onto my RX75 with little trouble. Its real tight, but I love the way it looks and fit for on the go use. Very satisfied and still using it as an EDC for on the go fresh material use. Using TCR mode set at 185, 33 watts and ohms locked at .23 has been yielding fabulous results at about 365f. I usually bring it up to 420f when I no longer get vapor to kill the bowl and at the end am left with evenly browned material. Loving this little guy so far. Can't wait for my PH Dosing cap to come in for an even stealthier on the go device.

I got the Imp during 420 but have been too busy to really try it out. Have been playing around with it for the past day or so and found the same regarding intake holes. I was getting really horrendous hot spots before adjusting. Coming from a splinter, this is definitely different but I'm enjoying it so far. I like the smaller form factor.

 

[Improvaper]

Ah! Great point, and I’m glad you mentioned it before I paid for a stem I couldn’t use.

You can fit 14mm gg stems in the new o-ring body with a little shrink-wrap. At least, this is what I've heard from Payton. Haven't tried it myself.

During a live steam I asked @paytonpenn and he suggested aligning up the air intake holes perpendicular to the coils.

I asked about intake alignment because I, like many I assume, have been following that advice to align them across the coils or diagonally. It does indeed heat up fastest that way, however I've found that aligning closer to the ends of the coils creates an airflow that provides very even AVB, even on the older tapered stems. The trade-off is that you need to either bump up the temp or slow your draw because it's not as efficient. Just something I've noticed and played with. There's plenty of in-between space to play with and find your happy place.

@flammy you were getting hotspots with alignment at the ends of the coil? That is not what I'm seeing. [shrug]

I'm really enjoying the airflow with widened intakes. Of course if you draw too hard too fast it's tough to get the vaporization going. However, I've found drawing too slow can also be detrimental towards getting a cold bowl started vaporizing. I'm pulsing my draw between the two and that seems to kickstart the Imp system better than any other method. Makes for really efficient usage. And it makes sense... you draw a hot pocket of air into the weed on faster draw and then let it linger for the slow part, spreading to the edges of the bowl and helping to get it all melting.

Speaking of efficiency, I switched from 2500 mAh Sony VTC5-a from imrbatteries.com to 3000 mAh Sony VTC6 from liionwarehouse.com today and the difference in battery life is remarkable. I went from 4-6 bowls per battery to 10-12. I don't really understand why it's so much more than a mere +500 mAh would suggest. But I'm happy with it! I don't really need to carry a spare for daily use any more.

 

[mistvaporizer]

Dosing caps are scheduled to arrive Monday!!!!!!!!
I am excited and nervous, excited to get them, nervous because I haven't seen them yet.
Confident they will be great, this guy does great work. I'll post pics when they arrive.

 

[DeezVaprz]

Dosing caps are scheduled to arrive Monday!!!!!!!!
I am excited and nervous, excited to get them, nervous because I haven't seen them yet.
Confident they will be great, this guy does great work. I'll post pics when they arrive.

Can't wait, this is going to make my Imp even stealthier. Any sneak peak on how the wooden Imp dosing caps look?

 

[deadlytoaster]

Took a month but the Imp finally arrived following fun customs procedures and fees.

First session knocked me OUT. Flavor as good as the FF2 but way easier. Still finding the best TCR settings to run, using Myevic firmware.
Getting MONSTER clouds vaping on sage. No device even the sticky brick has given me such solid results... Now is it worth it to upgrade to a DNA mod from the P80... hmmm

 

[deadlytoaster]

My settings for the Imp on Sinuous P80 running MyEvic on Autofire is as follows:

30W, TCR sets at 120, resistance at 0.221. 25 second autofire.

Minimal glow, heats up in about 5 seconds. Second draw at like 15 seconds normally is the best.

Only wish there was Cruise Control Eco mode I could program on here. A 5-10 minute session with the coil at 120°C when passive and 190°C when drawing would be perfect.

@mistvaporizer would the maple wood insides be safe from this level of heat with cruise control at 100-140c?

Has anyone messed around with PID settings? What do they do?


The imp kicks serious ass on a P80. Feels like a Solo 2 Grasshopper hybrid with the portability of a Crafty in the best way. Can't wait for dosing caps. The short stem is even pretty fine, long stem is smoother, I like the cooling of the glass beads but prefer the feel of glass on my lips. Need a cooling stem with blown glass dimples I think.

Battery life also kicks ass. In this autofire mode it draws around 5-8 watts when not drawing and between 20-30 when drawing depending on draw speed. Much more efficient than on-demand hits for a 10 minute session.

The wood at 180c barely gets warmer than what feels like 40-50°C near the coils. No risk of char here and it very dimly glows when under high draw load. So close to a perfect score, just need better cooling stems and dosing caps

 

[mistvaporizer]

@deadlytoaster glad you are liking the Imp.
Opted for the removable beads because the glass for got, especially on the shorty stems, and the mp was a good solution. I can have a glass beaded stem made for you with divots to hold the beads like the ground glass stems

 

[Hippie]

Has anyone messed around with PID settings? What do they do?

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/t...ons-and-customizing.23742/page-9#post-1342286

There's some more PID talk at the beginning of the thread with some mesmerising gifs and more info peppered throughout the thread too.

 

[PapaEmeritusCDXX]

I got my imp today. Buuuut as the gods will it, my iPV5 will not work in TC mode with it.

regular wattage mode is only 10 seconds. TC either works 1/10 times or 9/10 times it tells me dry coil, no atomizer.

My usual evic sellers on ebay are nuked, most places want $45+ USD for a evic/simple box mod.

Fuck my luck. Any other good box mods out there I can try?

 

[deadlytoaster]

Sinuous P80 works terrific, looks nice and feels pretty good.

 

[GoldenBud]

I got my imp today. Buuuut as the gods will it, my iPV5 will not work in TC mode with it.

regular wattage mode is only 10 seconds. TC either works 1/10 times or 9/10 times it tells me dry coil, no atomizer.

My usual evic sellers on ebay are nuked, most places want $45+ USD for a evic/simple box mod.

Fuck my luck. Any other good box mods out there I can try?

Wismec RX200S on fasttech
go for Authentic only
also check lamart.ch/firmware
there's at least one more tubo supported firmware mod that can be found under 55$ in fasttech website

 

[dagfp]

. Buuuut as the gods will it, my iPV5 will not work in TC mode with it.

Fuck my luck. Any other good box mods out there I can try?

how familiar are you with box mod operation? the yihi chip inside the ipv5 is considered to be in the same tier as dnas for their tc accuracy and reliability...

in other words, could the problem be your settings more than the box mod hardware?


edit：i just checked and the yihi chip is from 2016 and though it was good back then, it can't compete with the newer chips. there is no tcr on the ipv5 which i would think is critical for proper tc vaping.

 

[buddingglasshead]

how familiar are you with box mod operation? the yihi chip inside the ipv5 is considered to be in the same tier as dnas for their tc accuracy and reliability...

in other words, could the problem be your settings more than the box mod hardware?


edit：i just checked and the yihi chip is from 2016 and though it was good back then, it can't compete with the newer chips. there is no tcr on the ipv5 which i would think is critical for proper tc vaping.

Wouldn't matter either way. YiHi chips have built in dry hit detection. We're using these dry. It's just not going to work with YiHi chips unless they give an option to disable the dry hit protection.