deadlytoaster
Canadian lost in Europe
^ what were you powering with before?
Discontinued Imp by MistVape
- Thread starter mistvaporizer
- Start date
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Totally agree the experience on the P80 was much better than the Witcher or Disguiser. On the DNA mods it's was even better. I picked up the IMP for travel so using the P80 for it's cruise function.
I been enjoying mine for travel. In this spot I can really appreciate it's smaller size and vapor signature.
I can also see this one making for a great home unit. Especially for a micro dose user or someone looking to conserve on material. For my usage patterns I more prefer something with a larger bowl when at home. Others might find the 14mm suits them better.
HAPPY 420
Here is my DNAc profile for the IMP.
IMPDNAc.ecigprofile
DeezVaprz
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah, for travel I haven't found anything this size that can produce similar clouds. I loved my Pax 2 when I had it as my first "mainstream" vape, but even with it's stealth factor, I'm going with the P80/Imp combo as my EDC vape (with the Haze Square floating around here and there) for sure. Such a pleasure to use!
I was using a Smok-XPriv then a Smok Treebox before. Not bad, the XPriv had the power and the Treebox is made out of wood and looks so sweet, but for some reason the RXGen3 with Sur_myevic works freaking amazing. Literally feels like a completely different vape!
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how many seconds are people taking per hit? i have bumped up my inhale to 15 seconds on and then about 5 seconds with it switched off to clear the stem and help get the vapors down deeper... do convection vaporizers typically require these extended draws or do some people prefer shorter puffs on theirs?
Sativapo
Well-Known Member
Time is just one factor among many. I do both the kinds of hits you describe and about half shorter depending also on when vapor comes and how dense it is depending on the temp, draw speed, weed type, lung capacity at the moment, head high at the moment etc..
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Greetings Imp people! I just got one, and I have a question I'd like to get your sage advice about.
I'm coming from a Splinter, where I'm able to sandwich the herbal material in between a flat internal screen (sitting about where the Imp screen sits in the stem), and a basket/top hat screen. I suppose one could kind of do that with the Imp too, but that would take serious fiddling each time. Also I'm a microdoser, so I don't want to pack the tip sufficiently that nothing falls out, cuz that's already too much for me.
So I'd like to use the Imp upside down, so nothing falls into the heater. I know some of you have probably solved this for water/bong use, but I'd like to find some combo of maybe Imp stem + silicone sleeve + tiny U-shaped or V-shaped glass piece so I can use it portably and upside down. Any thoughts on where I can get a sleeve and a piece of glass like that?
I'm coming from a Splinter, where I'm able to sandwich the herbal material in between a flat internal screen (sitting about where the Imp screen sits in the stem), and a basket/top hat screen. I suppose one could kind of do that with the Imp too, but that would take serious fiddling each time. Also I'm a microdoser, so I don't want to pack the tip sufficiently that nothing falls out, cuz that's already too much for me.
So I'd like to use the Imp upside down, so nothing falls into the heater. I know some of you have probably solved this for water/bong use, but I'd like to find some combo of maybe Imp stem + silicone sleeve + tiny U-shaped or V-shaped glass piece so I can use it portably and upside down. Any thoughts on where I can get a sleeve and a piece of glass like that?
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Thanks @Hippie, that makes total sense. Do you then depend on the tightness of the pack to keep the material in? I guess I prefer leaving the stuff loose, hence my penchant for the screen sandwich method.
I was just noodling around with various vape pieces and found that e-nano stem adapters fit perfectly, and I can then stick that into a j-hook, so that's one solution for using the imp upside down:
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@Plutonic load just a bit, loose in the stem them invert the Imp to insert the stem so it touches the internal screen.
Then you can use it right side up. The internal screen is 60 mesh just like the basket screen.
I have dosing caps on order, those might be helpful.
I'll announce as soon as they arrive.
Then you can use it right side up. The internal screen is 60 mesh just like the basket screen.
I have dosing caps on order, those might be helpful.
I'll announce as soon as they arrive.
DOH! Somehow didn't think that would be okay to do, probably because in Splinterland there's much concern about damaging the heater cores with 19/22 stems. But of course this is an entirely different beast. Thanks!
deadlytoaster
Canadian lost in Europe
Ugh I hate you people, stop showing me your beautiful Imps on P80 mod! I've been waiting almost a month for my gear to arrive in the mail hahaha! Intense jealously arising...!!!
PaperClouds
Well-Known Member
How often should you be resetting the resistance?
Does anyone know the details of the stock Clapton coils? Gauges of outer and inner wires, for example? And I assume they're SS316L? Reason I ask is that I seem to have to really boost the TCR setting to get the coils plausibly hot enough for a given nominal temperature reading, so I want to noodle around with other coils to see if I get a more believable relationship between the TCR setting and the listed temp.
I realize the other way to go here is to increase the cold ohms setting, but I've never understood why one would want to do that. Cold ohms is what it is, so seems to me it makes sense to just use the TCR setting as the variable to fool around with. But feel free to school me about this.
I realize the other way to go here is to increase the cold ohms setting, but I've never understood why one would want to do that. Cold ohms is what it is, so seems to me it makes sense to just use the TCR setting as the variable to fool around with. But feel free to school me about this.
Alex3oe
Accessory Maker
You're absolutely right. There's been a similar discussion over in the Lil'Bud Elite thread, where @HerbieVonVapster explained a lot once more
There's been a similar discussion over in the Lil'Bud Elite thread, where @HerbieVonVapster explained a lot once more
Thanks for pointing me to that thread @Alex3oe! Glad to have my hunch confirmed by @HerbieVonVapster's wisdom. But then the mystery persists: Why do I need to turn up the TCR to ~200 to get reasonable vapor at ~380F when I use the cold ohms measurement of ~.021? Am I mistaken about the stock coil material, which I thought took a TCR of ~100 +/- 20?
Would also love to hear from anyone who's used another type of coil.
coming from the ecig world i had the exact same thoughts as you but setting the "correct" ss316 tcr value resulted in a fast ramp up but the mod wasn't able to account for changes from my inhalation as any draw ended up overpowering the heater and dropping the temperature of the coils too severely. so now i have it set up at 205 tcr and the ramp up takes 3 to 4 seconds but has no problem maintaining the set temperature.
somewhere around 445 degrees is where the herb starts to char for me, so i figure that's accurate enough to cover the range of cannabinoid vaporization temperatures.
so while i cant explain the physics, i can explain what i have observed
i tried shorter draws and while it got me nicely faded, i feel like the more frequent heating up of the coils from a cooled state drains more battery than maintaining a set temperature. even moreso since i have a 70 watt 2 second preheat.
the only reason i want shorter draws is for stealth purposes but the imp is already innocuous looking, which belies it's tremendous power.
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Thanks @dagfp. Yeah, the 200 range for TCR seems about right (assuming a "true" cold ohms reading is used). I switched back from my Paranormal to the P80 with sur_myevic firmware just cuz the imp/P80 combo is so fucking adorable, and my approach to maintaining a steady temp is to use the PID settings rather than preheat, which, judging from real-time monitoring (using FWUpdater), isn't as absolutely rock steady as a DNA mod, but it stays within 10 degrees and gets up to temp in about 3 seconds. (I use P=1000, I=120, D=5.) Max wattage is set to 50, so I can't draw too hard without the temp going down. Does anyone know if it's safe to set a higher max wattage to deal with that?
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KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
You must be drawing really hard if you overpower the heater at 50W! That's much more than what the RBT vapes run at, and they have a beefy SS heater where the Imp has just small gauge coils.
I get good vapor at 25W and I can draw pretty hard, so I guess we don't have the same definition of the term haha!
I hope you're not using a single cell mod at this power as it's too much for nearly all cells we recommend, they would have a very short life.
Plus that's really a lot of amps for the tiny coils we have. I'm worried they would destroy themselves pretty fast like the first set of coils that came with the StemPod.
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Found dual coils seem to use higher TCR than single coil designs. Running my IMP at 165 TCR stempod 185 TCR. The splinters ,iheat and elite runs more in 90-110 TCR range.
Tried to find more info on it and ran cross this graph and post. Need time to read thru it all but wanted share and get some others thoughts on it.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/do-dual-coils-affect-tc-accuracy.721108/
Tried to find more info on it and ran cross this graph and post. Need time to read thru it all but wanted share and get some others thoughts on it.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/do-dual-coils-affect-tc-accuracy.721108/
the preheat is set to a triangle power curve so it only hits 70 watts for a split second at which point it's about 18 amps over two 18650s. mooch said with the vtc 6 as long as you don't overheat when running high amps it should be ok, and i make sure my onboard temp stays relatively cool. not sure if i will have to be more vigilant in the summer but probably.
as for the coils... what happened to the stempods first coils? did the resistance start to get thrown off or the coils wouldn't heat up evenly? i thought stainless was stable at temps well over 1000 degrees but with the tcr adjustments the coils are definitely getting up there, even with temp settings locked in.
stainless glow is supposedly visible in daylight around 1000 celcius and i can definitely see my coils no matter how bright it is. if the coils crap out they can easily be replaced but my health not so much, so im banking on the medicinal benefits of the herb outweighing the what i have convinced myself as negligible offgassing risks.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
On a dual+ cells mod, no worries indeed! 
As for coils, I'm a rather vocal advocate of the "no glow" school. I manage to get the vapor I'm after with all my convection vapes without seeing the faintest glow. Just did the test with the Imp, shell removed and the lights off, held trigger until TC stabilized to my usual temperature, and no glow at all.
With my Project Pure SF, I got a very faint start of a glow but only when there's no air flow. As soon as I draw it disappears. No glow in Milaana, Zion nor MistVape Touch either. Same with Nomad but it's harder to verify.
What's puzzling is that several other users in the various threads I frequent, using the exact same vapes I use, swear that they need to make them glow in order to get good vapor. So I really don't know, maybe they have huge lungs or they can't regulate their draw, or it's the water filtration... I dunno, prolly all at once in fact! But there has to be something in their usage pattern that requires much much more power than I need.
As for coils, I'm a rather vocal advocate of the "no glow" school. I manage to get the vapor I'm after with all my convection vapes without seeing the faintest glow. Just did the test with the Imp, shell removed and the lights off, held trigger until TC stabilized to my usual temperature, and no glow at all.
With my Project Pure SF, I got a very faint start of a glow but only when there's no air flow. As soon as I draw it disappears. No glow in Milaana, Zion nor MistVape Touch either. Same with Nomad but it's harder to verify.
What's puzzling is that several other users in the various threads I frequent, using the exact same vapes I use, swear that they need to make them glow in order to get good vapor. So I really don't know, maybe they have huge lungs or they can't regulate their draw, or it's the water filtration... I dunno, prolly all at once in fact! But there has to be something in their usage pattern that requires much much more power than I need.
Thanks @KeroZen. I'm just "instrument flying" at this point, and the real-time monitor tells me that if I draw pretty hard (though not absolutely crazy hard) I drop the temp by about 20F using a 50W max, but I'm pretty sure that if I were to get off my instrument flying kick, take my eyes off the monitor, and just, you know, relax and take a nice hit, I could probably get away with a much lower max wattage and still feel like I got a good hit. In any case I'd be happy to slow down my draws to respect the limits of this lovely device.
You have me a little concerned though on two counts: Right now I am indeed using a single cell mod (P80). Is there a battery safety issue such that I shouldn't be stressing a single cell by maxing at 50W? And is the flood of amps at 50W potentially breaking down the coil? If yes to either question, do you have thoughts about what a truly safe max wattage would be, and would it be different for a 1-cell vs. 2-cell mod? (Unlike @dagfp's situation, I'm hitting my max wattage for several seconds at a time.)
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