Herborizer corner

sweetherb

sweetherb

Well-Known Member
roonsy said:
sup everyone

does anyone know where I can buy any alternatives to the "suction tube 14.5" sold by herborizer? I've broken my second one and I can't afford the shipping from herborizer anymore... just really wanna use my herborizer.

am in Australia.
Click to expand...

I'm in Europe and wondering the same thing. I'd actually really like a longer, straight glass tube for the mouthpiece. I've had a look on dhgate and there are a few options, but none are really what I'm looking for. What I want is really just a long tube with a 14mm GG joint on the end.

Hope you find what you're after! Please post here if you find something.
 
sweetherb,
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Radwin Bodnic

Radwin Bodnic

Well-Known Member
sweetherb said:
I'm in Europe and wondering the same thing. I'd actually really like a longer, straight glass tube for the mouthpiece. I've had a look on dhgate and there are a few options, but none are really what I'm looking for. What I want is really just a long tube with a 14mm GG joint on the end.

Hope you find what you're after! Please post here if you find something.
Click to expand...
In Europe, you could get the straight 190mm mouthpiece from Ehle.
It's a bit expensive but everything Ehle is top quality.

I can't help for Australia, sorry.
 
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Texus

Well-Known Member
Lots of alternatives are available for a 14mm mouthpiece stem. Tho finding a pinched one is a bit trickier.

Closest thing I could find was this from Oregon Glass Blower, who does great quality stuff:

oregonglassblower.com

14MM GLASS MOUTHPIECE 12MM TUBING MALE FLAT END 8"

I USE ONLY THE HIGHEST QUALITY AMERICAN AND GERMAN MANUFACTURED GROUND GLASS FITTINGS.
oregonglassblower.com oregonglassblower.com

If you can't find just what you are looking from googling "14mm mouthpiece stem" I imagine you could get Joda, Texas Hot Glass or Oregon Glass to make you one.
 
roonsy

roonsy

Well-Known Member
ya'll are absolute legends. I was too braindead to know what to google for :)

appreciate the advice, now i know what to search for for alternatives, and hippie - perfect... and super cheap.. ordering 2 right now. thanks!

should grab myself a different 18mm piece as well soon so i dont have to rely on the herborizer bubbler, it's all I have

thanks all!
 
D

dimmusp

Well-Known Member
Is it possible to upgrade the standard Herborizer Ti to the DigiTi? Or would you have to buy the whole thing?
 
dimmusp,
T

Texus

Well-Known Member
dimmusp said:
Is it possible to upgrade the standard Herborizer Ti to the DigiTi? Or would you have to buy the whole thing?
Click to expand...
From what I can tell/recall the DigiTi heater has an attached cord rather than a plugable one like the Ti. But if you are just looking for more precise control, I'd recommend switching to a REFC ATM kit. Looks like they are out of the pre-built ones, but very easy to build. I've built 2 in under 30 min. Plugs right into the Herbo Ti heater and I run it at about 9V.

refc-labs.com

Advanced Telemetry Module - Shell Kit

The Advanced Telemetry Module is a Lab designed 3D-printed dual bay DC-DC buck/stepdown module housing which seamlessly adapts one or more UCTronics Buck Modules into a sleek, compact, and powerful desktop variable voltage power controller. The ATM is the world's first economically-minded...
refc-labs.com refc-labs.com
 
T

Texus

Well-Known Member
When I was researching what Herbo to buy, I just couldn't find a good justification for going with DigiTi. Especially with ATM or the Herborizer Ti's own power supply switching to one that displays voltage.
 
Radwin Bodnic

Radwin Bodnic

Well-Known Member
Texus said:
When I was researching what Herbo to buy, I just couldn't find a good justification for going with DigiTi. Especially with ATM or the Herborizer Ti's own power supply switching to one that displays voltage.
Click to expand...
I have a power supply that shows the voltage but I only use the old one. With the potentiometer and the power supply in two different housings. I like it because it is less bright and I'm just a set it and forget it guy...
 
Radwin Bodnic,
D

dimmusp

Well-Known Member
Radwin Bodnic said:
Just to add to @Texus excellent answer, the DigiTi have a temp probe inside the cartridge resistor. (Not the analog version).

What bother you with the analog version ?
Click to expand...
Thanks.

I have the original analog version where the temperature control is in a separate little box (not on the power brick).

Two things bother me mainly:
1. It's too easy to accidentally move the wheel
2. You never really know how hot the vape is (say, if you just turned it on or are trying to temp step)
 
dimmusp,
T

Texus

Well-Known Member
dimmusp said:
Thanks.

I have the original analog version where the temperature control is in a separate little box (not on the power brick).

Two things bother me mainly:
1. It's too easy to accidentally move the wheel
2. You never really know how hot the vape is (say, if you just turned it on or are trying to temp step)
Click to expand...
I'd go REFC ATM in that case, personally.
 
Texus,
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Hippie

Hippie

Well-Known Member
There are loads of buck boost convertors you can use
Most of them require you to press a button to change anything
They don't say how hot it is but they do say exactly how many watts, volts and amps you're using which i find helps with consistency
And as I have a wee selection of other devices I hook up to the same units it's less clutter for me
 
Radwin Bodnic

Radwin Bodnic

Well-Known Member
dimmusp said:
2. You never really know how hot the vape is (say, if you just turned it on or are trying to temp step)
Click to expand...
I have to admit this is the only advantage I can see considering the DigiTi.

I'm just not sure it is worth the extra €.

If I want to temp step with the analog Ti I usually set it @ 6 and start hitting it maybe five minutes after turning it on. And I keep hitting every minute or so while it heats up.

But this is something I rarely do. An average sesh is I set it @ 5 and wait 10-15 min before taking 3-4 hits and dump the abv.
 
Radwin Bodnic,
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T

tukatukera

Well-Known Member
Retailer
Finally got my 12V Ti!!
I had plenty of experience using @Vapordeflor 's Digi TI and I pulled the trigger on a second hand 12v.
So far I'm very happy, I like 12v because of the universlity vs the 220V Digi version, I don't need to know exact temps
I'm looking for recommends on a multi-device 12V PSU. I'm planning on building a terpification station based on 12V with a Lampe, my Ti, my halogen glass tube heater for Vaponic and Rocket (Tazalogena) and a Herborizer XL injector
 
Popcorn Lung

Popcorn Lung

Well-Known Member
Hi FC Compadres,

I have a question for those of you who are more technically inclined. My power adapter stopped working, and I’ve had it since January. I keep it on 24/7 since I’m home most of the week. Over the weekend, I noticed the adapter was off when I went to use it. I thought it might have come unplugged, but when I checked, it was still connected. I disconnected the adapter from the heat injector, and the adapter powered back on. However, when I plugged it back into the heat injector, it turned off again. I tried using two different heat injectors, but the same thing happened—the adapter shut off each time.

Does anyone have an idea of what could be going on with the power adapter?

Power Adapter Issue
 
Radwin Bodnic

Radwin Bodnic

Well-Known Member
Popcorn Lung said:
Does anyone have an idea of what could be going on with the power adapter?
Click to expand...

You tried with two different injectors right ?

It looks like the voltage is dropping as soon as you add a load in the circuit. To me it looks like the 12v transformer is dead. It can't accept a consequent load anymore. (The voltmeter is a very small load so it is able to light up).

Do you have a multimeter ?

Easy fix : replacement of the vvps

Edit : although I have a vvps I still prefer the old potentiometer dial with the detached 12v power supply.
I can use just the potentiometer directly plugged in the camper solar circuit (12v) or with the power supply in the house. Also it does not have the same action on the output than the vvps : one is able to dim led strips and the other makes them flicker. I'll have to check exactly what's happening with an oscilloscope one day.
 
Last edited:
Popcorn Lung

Popcorn Lung

Well-Known Member
Radwin Bodnic said:
You tried with two different injectors right ?

It looks like the voltage is dropping as soon as you add a load in the circuit. To me it looks like the 12v transformer is dead. It can't accept a consequent load anymore. (The voltmeter is a very small load so it is able to light up).

Do you have a multimeter ?

Easy fix : replacement of the vvps

Edit : although I have a vvps I still prefer the old potentiometer dial with the detached 12v power supply.
I can use just the potentiometer directly plugged in the camper solar circuit (12v) or with the power supply in the house. Also it does not have the same action on the output than the vvps : one is able to dim led strips and the other makes them flicker. I'll have to check exactly what's happening with an oscilloscope one day.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the helpful info and the link to the new power supply. I think I have a multimeter in the garage—how exactly should I use it to test if it’s the transformer?

Also, I tried two different injectors and got the same results with both.

I prefer the older power supply with the dial knob. Do you know why Seb changed it? I’m not a fan of the newer VVPS either.
 
Popcorn Lung,
Radwin Bodnic

Radwin Bodnic

Well-Known Member
Popcorn Lung said:
how exactly should I use it to test if it’s the transformer?
Click to expand...
You won't be able to test just the transformer without cracking open the vvps. You could try to measure the output tension on the jack plug and how it reacts when you turn the knob but that won't tell what part is failing.

Popcorn Lung said:
I prefer the older power supply with the dial knob. Do you know why Seb changed it? I’m not a fan of the newer VVPS either.
Click to expand...
I think the vvps showing the voltage on display gives a more visual indication of the power delivered to the heater.
And I bet it's cheaper than the old two parts power supply + potentiometer.

Here you go : power supply and potentiometer
 
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