Herbie V2 by Vape Engineering - 510 dry herb vaporizer

fangorn

Well-Known Member
Taking more of a wait-and-see attitude now after seeing all the mixed reviews. There’s a flood of expert opinion coming if the damn things ever get out of Frankfurt.

I agree...
There's no point in having a final judgment so soon!
I experiment. the others too... it will soon be your turn to all of you who are waiting!

There's a learning curve... which we didn't necessarily expect, but I hope we'll get there!!!
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
The replay feature just replays the settings of your last use, so if you were already on wattage, whatever setting, it will just replay that hit, pretty sure that's the case for DNA

Replay was one of the last features they added on DNA75C firmware, it has to be selected ON/OFF for each profile. And does work on wattage mode. For those new to DNA devices, I suggest spending some time learning the features.

My Herbie V2 arrived a few hours ago, so far on my DNA75C mod, I’m experiencing the same thing as I did when using my Stempod. The mod says “TEMPERATURE PROTECTION”, and won’t power the DRY mesh coil. works fine in WATTAGE mode. Not having much luck on a different NON DNA mod either. So, I’m moving on from TC mode now, as I want to start using it, I’ll be using WATTAGE mode for now.

ADDED: The Herbie came fairly clean, UNTIL.... I was able to unscrew the INNER metal chamber, got a lot of grey junk on my 99% ISO rag. Good thing to clean this area before using, as I anticipate it being harder to unscrew as resin vapor builds up over time, and to unscrew it, means using my pinkie finger, this was one area I was mildly concerned about after watching the Herbie assembly videos.

ALSO: The 2 grub screws clamping the PRE-INSTALLED mesh coils were TIGHT, but after screwing on/off various mods, I started seeing ODD OHM readings, the bottom 510 screw was loose and backing out. TEST all 3 atomizer screws, the two tools for this come in the package. My mesh coil READS = 17 ohms.

Sorry for all the edits, doing this almost real time. After tightening the 510 screw, and ohms now solid, I’m back to trying TC MODE. On my non-DNA, TCR 0102 (TCR value if SS304), 17 ohms, 60 watts, 360f, one open airflow hole,
Got a nice smooth draw and good flavor and vapor, this before the 10 second timer on this mod cutoff. I’ll go back and test the DNA mod, as it has a 15 second custom setting. But, I really can’t draw on this device for more then 10 seconds so far, and it’s a brief pause just to click the power button again. The non-DNA device I’m testing has an LED screen I can see while hitting, and has a bar graph timer, so I can monitor the timer while drawing.
 
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KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
I'm also getting "temperature protection" on all my TC mods and it just means it thinks it has reached the set temperature. You should insist more, I think it's working but if you don't get any vapor and if you don't burn your finger when touching the coil then the TCR coef and/or the set temperature must be way off.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I'm also getting "temperature protection" on all my TC mods and it just means it thinks it has reached the set temperature. You should insist more, I think it's working but if you don't get any vapor and if you don't burn your finger when touching the coil then the TCR coef and/or the set temperature must be way off.

I’ve been updating my post above as I’m going. The 510 pin got loose. The “temperature protect” warning on a DNA mod used to mean it was just throttling the temperature and doing its job, this used to confuse a lot of first time DNA owners. Something changed on the newer DNA75C software/firmware, and I wrote back and forth with the Evole creator multiple times, and never resolved what changed, and gave up long ago. I think in this case, it was the loose 510 pin. I’ll go back to the DNA later, as so far I’m getting good results on the non-DNA mode in TC mode, and I’d rather use this one, for the form factor. I’ll post PHOTOS when they fix the forum attachment issues yet again.
 

oddjobold

Vape swap shop
The first thing I did when I got the Herbie was tighten all the screws including the centre pin. My centre pin was quite lose out the box.

I have used the Herbie on a Smoant Ladon and the paramour and both worked in TC fine without any errors.

At the moment I am wondering if I got sent a different vape to you guys!
 
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Spleeeno

Horsin around
if you look at your theme settings in escribe, you can set "temperature protection" to not even be displayed if it occurs.
but I've changed tactics on the dani sbs, I've set wattage to 20W (105 TCR, 210C temp, only one airhole open) to extend the fire timeout up from 10 seconds to 20 seconds, and its been marvelous. you just press the button, look at the temp and hit it when its up at 200 or so, and watch the temp drop down to 160 or so right as you're reading it, and you do get some tasty clouds. it takes a while to get to 200C though, like a good 8 or more seconds, its more of session vape now, but will see how good I can finish the bowls without scorching :science:

edit: basically makes it all about how you draw on it...totally diggin this right now.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
The first thing I did when I got the Herbie was tighten all the screws including the centre pin.

I have used the Herbie on a Smoant Ladon and the paramour and both worked in TC fine without any errors.

At the moment I am wondering if I got sent a different vape to you guys!

Keep an eye on it, if like me you unscrew it a lot, it can potentially back out. Newbies, keep an eye on your OHMS!

if you look at your theme settings in escribe, you can set "temperature protection" to not even be displayed if it occurs.
but I've changed tactics on the dani sbs, I've set wattage to 20W (105 TCR, 210C temp, only one airhole open) to extend the fire timeout up from 10 seconds to 20 seconds, and its been marvelous. you just press the button, look at the temp and hit it when its up at 200 or so, and watch the temp drop down to 160 or so right as you're reading it, and you do get some tasty clouds. it takes a while to get to 200C though, like a good 8 or more seconds, its more of session vape now, but will see how good I can finish the bowls without scorching :science:

edit: basically makes it all about how you draw on it...totally diggin this right now.

I leave the warning on, it can activate in other situations as I’ve described in my long post again. The Dani looks sweet!
 
Replay was one of the last features they added on DNA75C firmware, it has to be selected ON/OFF for each profile. And does work on wattage mode. For those new to DNA devices, I suggest spending some time learning the features.

My Herbie V2 arrived a few hours ago, so far on my DNA75C mod, I’m experiencing the same thing as I did when using my Stempod. The mod says “TEMPERATURE PROTECTION”, and won’t power the DRY mesh coil. works fine in WATTAGE mode. Not having much luck on a different NON DNA mod either. So, I’m moving on from TC mode now, as I want to start using it, I’ll be using WATTAGE mode for now.

ADDED: The Herbie came fairly clean, UNTIL.... I was able to unscrew the INNER metal chamber, got a lot of grey junk on my 99% ISO rag. Good thing to clean this area before using, as I anticipate it being harder to unscrew as resin vapor builds up over time, and to unscrew it, means using my pinkie finger, this was one area I was mildly concerned about after watching the Herbie assembly videos.

ALSO: The 2 grub screws clamping the PRE-INSTALLED mesh coils were TIGHT, but after screwing on/off various mods, I started seeing ODD OHM readings, the bottom 510 screw was loose and backing out. TEST all 3 atomizer screws, the two tools for this come in the package. My mesh coil READS = 17 ohms.

Sorry for all the edits, doing this almost real time. After tightening the 510 screw, and ohms now solid, I’m back to trying TC MODE. On my non-DNA, TCR 0102 (TCR value if SS304), 17 ohms, 60 watts, 360f, one open airflow hole,
Got a nice smooth draw and good flavor and vapor, this before the 10 second timer on this mod cutoff. I’ll go back and test the DNA mod, as it has a 15 second custom setting. But, I really can’t draw on this device for more then 10 seconds so far, and it’s a brief pause just to click the power button again. The non-DNA device I’m testing has an LED screen I can see while hitting, and has a bar graph timer, so I can monitor the timer while drawing.
Hey. This was helpful. I've got the SBS Paramour mod, and I'm confused about this TCR. Should it be set 10 "1020" or like you've said "0102". Using the mesh that comes with the Herbie V2.
 
RogueSquirrel80,
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RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Hey. This was helpful. I've got the SBS Paramour mod, and I'm confused about this TCR. Should it be set 10 "1020" or like you've said "0102". Using the mesh that comes with the Herbie V2.

Seems every brand mode with TCR settings use a different number format. Try scrolling the TCR menu to see what numbers it stops at. 0102, 102, there is usually a limit, then you’ll know what numbering format that mod uses.
 

Spleeeno

Horsin around
so yeah running this thing limited to 20W in TC with 210C as the limit and only one airhole open is surprisingly effective on the dani sbs, especially since the abv doesnt have the dreaded central hotspot anymore.
after 5 or so inhales the whole chamber (and the gold capsule too I guess) is getting up to temp and you can decide on what temp below 210 the coil stays just by inhaling faster or slower after it has gotten up to 200, and you can check the temps on the top-mounted display, so very nifty.
the first few rounds are a bit meh since 20W does take some time to get there but I'm enjoying the ritual atm
 
Seems every brand mode with TCR settings use a different number format. Try scrolling the TCR menu to see what numbers it stops at. 0102, 102, there is usually a limit, then you’ll know what numbering format that mod uses.
Thanks! It stops at "0500" on the low end, turns out it's "1020"
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
so yeah running this thing limited to 20W in TC with 210C as the limit and only one airhole open is surprisingly effective on the dani sbs, especially since the abv doesnt have the dreaded central hotspot anymore.
after 5 or so inhales the whole chamber (and the gold capsule too I guess) is getting up to temp and you can decide on what temp below 210 the coil stays just by inhaling faster or slower after it has gotten up to 200, and you can check the temps on the top-mounted display, so very nifty.
the first few rounds are a bit meh since 20W does take some time to get there but I'm enjoying the ritual atm

POD TESTING NOTES:

Interesting post you made, I spent some time today, just testing the SB Mighty aluminum PODS.

Not sure on your Mod software, but on a DNA75C, the WATTAGE one chooses, is only applied as needed to get to your SET TEMPERATURE. The DNA experts said it was best to just set wattage to MAX, and that allowed the chipset to get to your temperature fastest. I can see on the screen, how fast the real-time wattage drops. And for those new to a DNA mods, you DON’T LOCK the OHMS, as you are instructed to do on many other non-DNA mods. The ability to lock the ohms on a DNA mod, is if you end up with a bad connection 510, or just a funky atomizer. The DNA chipset does all the calculations. On the latest DNA75C firmware, you can set the vape time to 20 seconds, then you have to hit the power button again, but I can’t draw that long, so it’s fine for me.

The notes below are from testing on a DNA75C and a SMOK “Mag Grip” NON-DNA mod. Both use 21700 batteries, so plenty of juice!
I was pleasantly SURPRISED, the TEMPERATURE CONTROL behavior was about the same, with the supplied MESH HEATER SCREENS.

As I test new devices, I first try to follow the manufacturers settings and advice. So I’ve watched the YouTube video they have online, regarding S&B POD USAGE.
In that video he shows: TCR=0102 (SS304 mesh), 17ohms, 360f, 60 watts, two open airflow holes (x 2 sides of top cap)
His herb = unknown.

So far, I’m having mixed results. First pod, Not getting as much vapor on exhale as seen in video,
I started at 380f to compensate for the aluminum metal POD, and it’s LIMITED AIR HOLES. Then I started to temp step, by 10-20f. I stopped at about 425f, there was obviously NO flavor left (expected), and little vapor, so I was surprised that the ABV was visually only half extracted. 2 pods like this were the same, so I switched my herb from “Blue Dream” to a fresh purchase of “Sour Diesel”, a good test strain as it has a strong taste.

My next pod tests, using the SD herb, was better, more vapor, some satisfying hits, I hit the temp steps more times, and hit it more often to keep some heat in the herb. I played with slower draws to try and extract more, and set the airflow to ONE HOLE (x2 sides). This ABV was darker then my first tests with the BD herb, but with some black spots, as I took it too far, perhaps my slower draws.

I feel optimistic that I can continue to dial it in, but I see you set your start temperature to 210c = 410f, so I’m going to try 400f to start on my next tests. Maybe, I will get better extraction. I don’t look for or want really DARK ABV, but what I’m getting so far, is very GREEN. The early LOW TEMP hits are very flavorful, I’m NOT using any cooling balls, in the tip.

I have to remind myself that these S&B PODS were designed for the OVEN in a MIGHTY, that sits and cooks for CONDUCTION purposes. I believe that besides being aluminum, the main downside is there are LESS HOLES, then obviously a SCREEN, so less CONVECTION AIRFLOW. Ideally, a WIRE BASKET POD, would be better, but the ones I bought for other devices, DON’T FIT.

I am going to continue POD TESTING, as I figure if I can dial those in and get DECENT-EVEN EXTRACTION, then when using the HERBIE V2, with just loading herb in the chamber, NO PODS, will be EASIER!
 
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4everpushingaboulder

Well-Known Member
Well, Herbie landed in NY at customs. Went to the Queens distribution center…..

and now showed up in Phoenix…on the way to St.Louis. 😡

last week package from Yonkers (blocks from Queens) went to Indianapolis and to StLouis for delivery in 2 days.

I’ll wonder where in the world Herbie will go next.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Yeah! I’m waiting for more of you to get yours, so I can get some feedback.

Continuing my POD TESTS, “POST 337” a few posts above.....

Using the same parameters I used at the end of previous long post, EXCEPT, I think I forgot to mention, the one main thing I am NOT CURRENTLY using as “stock”, are any COOLING BEADS, since I read someone’s post that got theirs earlier, the supplied 2mm “glass?” Balls, can BLOCK the drilled holes in the SS mouthpiece, which makes sense just looking at the parts. Same thing happens if you do the ball mod on a TINY MIGHT and you put too small a ball size in the “cooling unit” if you remove the nuts and bolts make it a shell, but the CU has holes in the end, just like the Herbie MP. The solution there is an ADDED SCREEN to keep the BALLS out of the HOLES. In this case I don’t want to add any more screens then the 2 stock ones already needed in the Herbie. If you never plan to install any balls, you could probably remove the top screen in the MP, and with a medium grind, the built in holes in the SS metal MP “MIGHT” catch any “snacks” and BITS, but I’m leaving that screen in, as after a session, I’ve noticed some bud on the screen, not sure if they would get through the built in holes above, a fine grind would be a challenge, but I’m sticking with MEDIUM GRIND (using BCG). In later tests, I’ll try some 3mm balls in the Herbie, just trying to keep early testing as simple as possible, so NO BALLS for now.

LATEST POD TEST:
Started at 390f, temperature stepped to 430f, still getting very uneven EXTRACTION. I even tried flipping the POD OVER half way through the session. (The POD so far has never been too hot to touch right after taking it out)
Pushed it hard at the end temp, upon opening POD, saw some BLACK BITS in the middle. Have never gotten any big “CLOUDS”, not that I’m trying for that. Good ready flavor. ABV was brown with some green, and dark bits, but I dumped the .2 gram load which fit perfectly in the Grasshopper IO. Got a few more hits at #3 setting on GH IO, but bad taste from those black bits.

Not giving up yet as I’d personally like to use the PODS in this device. Looking forward to any new owners feedback if they are interested in using PODS too.
 

Spleeeno

Horsin around
so a few notes about little mods I did to my herbie v2:

I use 3mm rubies instead of the 2mm glass balls, but thats more of a personal preference.

I've also replaced all the screens with either finer (mouthpiece) or springier (herb chamber) screens.
Makes the capsule stick out a bit but that helps with grabbing/flipping it and might also help with creating a seal with the mouthpiece, so the hot air doesnt go past the (slightly smaller) copper/gold capsules compared to the aluminium ones. the finer screen in the mouthpiece also keeps out some of the gunk, but obviously you have to brush it quite frequently.
the bottom screen I took from one of my lamart wpas and the mouthpiece one was cut from some old deformed 18mm basketscreen.
kinda interested in what other people think of the stock screens once they receive their units, I'm not a fan but they are easy to replace...
 

Momor

Well-Known Member
I received the all black paramour yesterday. It's very nice looking and has a good feeling in the hand. It took less time to get that mod from Hong Kong than getting my missing coil from VapeEngineering (I'm in France)...

I set the mod as per the instructions and tried a fisrt bowl : got a big cloud at 170°C then combusted at 180°C. Upon inspection the combustion happened right in the middle of the load, with the surrounding still green.

On my second bowl i started at 140°C and got a nice cloud but something i'm used to get with other vapes around 180°C i would say. Then i temp stepped until 180°C. After maybe the first 3 puffs between 140°C and 150°C i wasn't getting nice clouds anymore. At 180°C i really felt the charred flavor and with no surprise saw the same hot spot when unloading the vape.

Third bowl i thought that lowering the TCR value could maybe diminish the hot spot or do something with the temp.
I went as low as 0850 and it changed the usable temps but not the hotspot.

Next i tried to reshape my coil. I made the folds more in the form of U instead of V. With this change i had to put the TCR value back to 1020 to get vapor between 180°C and 220°C but i still have that big hot spot in the middle of the bowl.

The resistence hasn't changed during all this, 0,17 ohms.

Some of the clouds i get with only the middle of the bowl being vaped are quit big and tasty so i can imagine what it could be if it was evenly heating all the bowl. I havre a feeling it could even be very close to TM performances but for now it isn't at all.

I'm very disappointed because I thought i bought a fully fonctionning unit but for now it's just wasting my precious herbs.

Seems like only Vape Engineering and @oddjobold manage to get good results/even AVB for now ?

@Vape Engineering, if i don't get the advertised performances out of my Herbie with the paramour and the coil i should receive from you, can i return it ?

Edit:
kinda interested in what other people think of the stock screens
I found the mouthpiece screen fragile and very sticky with herbs. It went out of shape the fisrt time i took it out and i always had quite a lot of herbs stuck to it, especialy in the middle of it. I changed it for fine mighty screen and it's better.
 
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David Root

Well-Known Member
Rustyoldnail, Put .15 in the pod it will probably work better. Hot spots in the center are a sign over packed environment. I use them in the Crafty and with my flower pot. Any time I drop them out of the crafty, they are HOT.


I looked at buying a HERBIE. It was WAY above my pay grade. Could buy a new crafty here in USA.
I did buy a MOD box and a different kind of Atomizer to see. If HERBIE comes available at a reasonable price, I will have it.

I don't know how much it turned out to be in US Dollars, but HOLY COW!

David
 
David Root,

fangorn

Well-Known Member
I haven't gotten a big cloud so far.
I'm trying to find the settings so I don't have blackheads.
I'm still in WV.

I think that filling my capsule less and compressing it more (than I would have done naturally) are essential.

Extremely slow draws seem to help with AVB uniformity.
and finally, very short draws (less than 15 seconds) seem to delay the creation of charred crumbs. I always tend to want to vacuum longer to finish the charge... and I often end up with a black micro particle.

But there is better in terms of uniform and more complete extraction. on the other hand, I don't get big clouds, which is not a problem for me.

I imagine that letting the load sit and cool between 2 puffs would help to avoid blackheads, but that's not my habit at all!

I still haven't cleaned the whole thing... the glass beads don't move anymore, but the air restriction is ok.

ah and I have now become accustomed to using only one airflow hole.

once the terms of use are ok, I intend to use the herbie V2 in the car with CBD on my way home from work... so I'll continue my tests a bit! (2-3 capsules per evening)
 

Spleeeno

Horsin around
@Momor try limiting the max wattage and temp a bit and try to reduce the airflow by just using 1/3 of the airholes. or just set it to 120C and do a bunch of preheat-cycles to get the whole chamber up to temp before you hit it.
I looked at buying a HERBIE. It was WAY above my pay grade. Could buy a new crafty here in USA.
I did buy a MOD box and a different kind of Atomizer to see. If HERBIE comes available at a reasonable price, I will have it.
but the herbie without the mod is just 84€ + shipping? since you guys dont have to pay VAT its actually cheaper to buy/ship to the US, even if the €/$ conversion makes it seem pricey. with the promocode at launch it was even cheaper, just 67€.
Extremely slow draws seem to help with AVB uniformity.
jup, just slowly drawing and keeping the temp hovering around 170C seems to give me the best hits.
 
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oddjobold

Vape swap shop
I received the all black paramour yesterday. It's very nice looking and has a good feeling in the hand. It took less time to get that mod from Hong Kong than getting my missing coil from VapeEngineering (I'm in France)...

I set the mod as per the instructions and tried a fisrt bowl : got a big cloud at 170°C then combusted at 180°C. Upon inspection the combustion happened right in the middle of the load, with the surrounding still green.

On my second bowl i started at 140°C and got a nice cloud but something i'm used to get with other vapes around 180°C i would say. Then i temp stepped until 180°C. After maybe the first 3 puffs between 140°C and 150°C i wasn't getting nice clouds anymore. At 180°C i really felt the charred flavor and with no surprise saw the same hot spot when unloading the vape.

Third bowl i thought that lowering the TCR value could maybe diminish the hot spot or do something with the temp.
I went as low as 0850 and it changed the usable temps but not the hotspot.

Next i tried to reshape my coil. I made the folds more in the form of U instead of V. With this change i had to put the TCR value back to 1020 to get vapor between 180°C and 220°C but i still have that big hot spot in the middle of the bowl.

The resistence hasn't changed during all this, 0,17 ohms.

Some of the clouds i get with only the middle of the bowl being vaped are quit big and tasty so i can imagine what it could be if it was evenly heating all the bowl. I havre a feeling it could even be very close to TM performances but for now it isn't at all.

I'm very disappointed because I thought i bought a fully fonctionning unit but for now it's just wasting my precious herbs.

Seems like only Vape Engineering and @oddjobold manage to get good results/even AVB for now ?

@Vape Engineering, if i don't get the advertised performances out of my Herbie with the paramour and the coil i should receive from you, can i return it ?

Edit:

I found the mouthpiece screen fragile and very sticky with herbs. It went out of shape the fisrt time i took it out and i always had quite a lot of herbs stuck to it, especialy in the middle of it. I changed it for fine mighty screen and it's better.

Have you checked your centre pin is not lose?

I also find the mixed results very puzzling. Only time I had hot spotting was when I was experimenting with TCR and had it too high.
 

Momor

Well-Known Member
Have you checked your centre pin is not lose?

I also find the mixed results very puzzling. Only time I had hot spotting was when I was experimenting with TCR and had it too high.
Yes i checked the center pin. And lower or higher TCR value than what's prescribed doesn't seem to really change things regarding that hot spot for me 😕
I'll try again when i receive the coil that was missing in my Herbie
 
Momor,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Rustyoldnail, Put .15 in the pod it will probably work better. Hot spots in the center are a sign over packed environment. I use them in the Crafty and with my flower pot. Any time I drop them out of the crafty, they are HOT.


I looked at buying a HERBIE. It was WAY above my pay grade. Could buy a new crafty here in USA.
I did buy a MOD box and a different kind of Atomizer to see. If HERBIE comes available at a reasonable price, I will have it.

I don't know how much it turned out to be in US Dollars, but HOLY COW!

David

I’ll certainly try less, like .15g.
But you can’t compare the POD temps when taken out, to use in a Mighty, as that’s a CONDUCTION OVEN, PODs are super hot. I wrote about this in my posts #337, and #340. Coming out of the Herbie “CONVECTION”, I can hold a POD in my hand.
 

David Root

Well-Known Member
I see your point. I have an Xmax V3 and it is convection. Capsule is hot when I take it out. So hot I cant pick it up and flip it over.

I have also taken a crafty capsuld and put it in an Ispire banger. It fits well and seals at the bottom. It worked using my New Vape WeedEater head. (Convection) I could get even AVB.
 
David Root,
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