So, to be clear, this is what it looks like if you peal away the Haze casing, correct? I read that if you peel away the Haze-branded casing they will no longer work. Why is that or is it really true?
Would these work in the Haze even though they don't have the Haze-branded casing?:
http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-NCR...id=1432612278&sr=8-7&keywords=18650+NCR18650B
Would using these non-branded batteries void Haze's original warranty even though the model number and 3400 mAh is the same? They look identical except without the Haze-branded casing on them so would they still work?
What does "protected" mean in this instance?
The Haze-branded batteries cost $29.99 US. A set of these currently costs $22.95 US. Are we paying $7.04 more for the branded version or is it really a superior product?
(It looks like the "protected" button part costs a few extra bucks. The kind with a flat end (assuming this from the product images) without the "button" cost $18.95 US + free shipping)
Sorry for the late reply, we got that timezone thing going on, yes that's what is under the wrapper, and I would
not advise anyone doing this, I knew before I started that after what I planned on doing the battery would be unusable (in the haze at least) the battery is not in anyway damaged or unsafe (for
my intended use for it) But by removing the wrap you expose the PCB and the wire that connects it to the + and - , although it is held with solder there are many things that could go wrong here and turn the battery from a battery to a hand grenade! Chances are when removing the wrap the cover that stops the connecting wire from shorting out the case will be damaged, so this alone would make the battery unusable in the haze unless you have the knowledge and equipment to put this right.
The batteries you posted, will they work? Probably yes (if they are what they claim), but they are not
exactly the same battery (the haze battery's are 3200mAh not the advertised 3400, this is
one of the differences between the B and the BE versions) and the PCB will
not work the same , at first when there was talk about a 'custom' PCB I was a little skeptical but after seeing it I can say it is custom and has more going on than others I have seen, the PCB is a kind of fail safe, keeping the battery working in the 'safe zone' how different from the standard the haze PCB works I could not say 100%, but just that I would rather go with something made/designed to work with my haze.
And yes the button part adds £ as this is used to connect the PCB to the + end, the PCB will also be part of the added £, as far as 'protected' goes this is the PCB, as standard it will stop the battery voltage from going too high or low and reverse polarity, then you have things like heat or changing the working voltage range that can be added/changed just to name a few.
Something else to consider is where you get the battery from, there are a lot of good sellers out there but a lot more bad sellers, things like receiving different battery's than advertised can happen, used laptop pulled battery's being rewrapped and I've even had some protected batteries where the PCB was just a blank and not even connected and some that didn't even have a blank lol, this is
part of the reason companies only recommend a battery they have tried and tested, I have also heard that Amazon uses reviews for multiple items if the codes match up which while good for some items not so great for something like these batteries where using a different seller (than the review was for) could result in receiving something unsafe.
At the end of the day what you choose to do is your decision, but while money is important I'm guessing yours and your family's health/safety is more important, this is the reason I always recommend OEM batteries as I would hate to give advice on a battery and someone to get a bad quality/fake product then have it go wrong in the way these can.
I don't want people to worry about the safety of these batteries, as when they are what they claim and used in the correct way they are perfectly safe, but just want people to think about the options and make informed decisions based on
their knowledge and research, I should also add I don't think of myself as a battery expert in anyway far from it, but it is something I have had an interest in for a few years and while I might not always follow my own advice, I do consider myself educated on the risks, how they happen and how to avoid them.
IMO if you have
any doubts stick with OEM.
Sorry for all the waffling, but hopefully someone can decipher
some useful info from my ramblings, things don't always make it from my brain to words the way I intend
, and as always if I've missed anything or got anything wrong please correct me