Discontinued Ghost MV1
- Thread starter VCBud
- Start date
i've a stealth unit & a black chrome. REturned one stealth with door latch broken & got a repl last yr fm ghost. Last week the door latch stopped working on the 2nd stealth unit- took it apart & saw the slightly worn latch issue but not sure how to actually fix it with jbweld-(c photos posted earlier here by another user & info about modifying spring) to make using it with oring or silicone band to keep door closed. Meanwhile i'm using my black chrome unit-. MV1 is still my go to vape daily (i've also a Mighty)- i get great flavor on low & then go thru the settings- turing crucible 180 degrees as i get to setting #4-
i have many heat sinks & a dozen crucibles so easy to just pop in new heat sink & use new clean crucible/lid for each filling. I've found recently that i get much better visible clouds on low setting 1 or 2 if i use a new clean heat sink much more often (i put in clean HS after every 6 crucibles). (taste is always great on low settings but i get much more vapor if I use a clean heat sink much more often). I'll keep using my MV1s till they no longer work- love them.
Thinking of the Tetra p80 but missed last drop, can't figure out their website to put in order- maybe i'll get a tinymight. I took a chance & just pre-ordered a Airvape Legacy for $99 that keeps getting postponed. may cancel that order as its unclear if this is true convection but price is right at $99.
i have many heat sinks & a dozen crucibles so easy to just pop in new heat sink & use new clean crucible/lid for each filling. I've found recently that i get much better visible clouds on low setting 1 or 2 if i use a new clean heat sink much more often (i put in clean HS after every 6 crucibles). (taste is always great on low settings but i get much more vapor if I use a clean heat sink much more often). I'll keep using my MV1s till they no longer work- love them.
Thinking of the Tetra p80 but missed last drop, can't figure out their website to put in order- maybe i'll get a tinymight. I took a chance & just pre-ordered a Airvape Legacy for $99 that keeps getting postponed. may cancel that order as its unclear if this is true convection but price is right at $99.
Summer
Long Island, NY
@BHI, also throw the Splinter Z into the mix for consideration.
@BHI, can you provide a link to the post where the jbweld was used?
@Bologna* said, "I just took apart one that has a "broken latch" issue and I bent the little clip in the back that pushes the door open. Now there's only a tiny bit of pressure on the door when it's closed. Works like a charm, actually, better than new because the door's much easier to open AND close but still stays shut."
What tool did you use to push in & bend the metal convex clip that resides on the inside back wall of the Ghost behind the crucible holder area when the door is shut?
& if the latch is broken, how does the door stay latched?
*Bologna hasn't registered on this site yet so I sent him a pm on the OG FC.
I'm not clear on what you are saying: "If you bend the pring a bit so it reduced the force." Are you stretching the o-ring to put it around the outside of the door, holding it shut? A picture would be great.
@BHI, can you provide a link to the post where the jbweld was used?
@Bologna* said, "I just took apart one that has a "broken latch" issue and I bent the little clip in the back that pushes the door open. Now there's only a tiny bit of pressure on the door when it's closed. Works like a charm, actually, better than new because the door's much easier to open AND close but still stays shut."
What tool did you use to push in & bend the metal convex clip that resides on the inside back wall of the Ghost behind the crucible holder area when the door is shut?
& if the latch is broken, how does the door stay latched?
*Bologna hasn't registered on this site yet so I sent him a pm on the OG FC.
I'm not clear on what you are saying: "If you bend the pring a bit so it reduced the force." Are you stretching the o-ring to put it around the outside of the door, holding it shut? A picture would be great.
Djsleepy
Well-Known Member
I believe it was a material change , I noticed stealth when it goes.out actually take a chip out of material, the others just were down to a.point where latch slowly let's in air killing performance....
yah my stealth latch just stopped working- took it apart & latch does appear to be chipped a bit-but its not easy to see what actually broke or where to apply a fix with some material. I thought maybe JBweld could be used to build it back up somehow, but difficult to see what to fix. Few folks have posted good pics of the unit apart- i didn't take any & just put it back together & will use band of some sort if my other non Stealth MV1 stops working.
cosimo
Well-Known Member
What do you mean? do you mean the door doesn't remain shut?
With my non-stealth unit, after some months, at higher temps my door would open mid session, but nothing was broken or chipped... what i noticed was the button was moving by itself... as if the spring that held it in place was becoming weaker and couldn't keep thee button in place. If i used my fingers or tape to keep the button in place, the door would not open. Is this what is happening to you?
Instead of using tape, since my latch mechanism wasn't really broken, what i did was take a piece of paper, fold it over itself several time to snuggly fit in the space to the right of the button. Now i just put that in there and the button remains in place, thus the door remains closed... it kind of even fixed the issue because i recently lost my folded paper and did a hot session without it and the door never opened. I already have a new folded paper that i use in case, and well I always move the button when opening and closing so it doesn't snap. Working like a charm,
Here is a pic of my first folded paper mod, my new one looks nicer:
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Baron23
Well-Known Member
Nothing as far as I could see. The Stealth latch didn't have the silver coating (of whatever it is) and was definitely an epicenter of latch failures. Their inability to solve this issue baffles me and indicates to me that they were in deep financial trouble well before we saw $125 deals and talk about closing down.
I suppose we will never know the true back story.
I have two of them....a Satin Silver and a black chrome. I like them, I don't use them that often as I'm an at home desktop guy and I have since first using one just thought they were a bit too fiddly for me. Others love them...I just kind of like them.
Cheers
Me too I mostly use my mv1 when Im out and about so I can make it last longer by less use I also have the Rift vape for on the go load the chambers with flower kif and wax and you dont need to many pulls you get medicated Very fast but its a pain to clean each time otherwise at home I use my cloud evo in my room or the Plenty on the front porch
Hey I forgot to say hi
also I am glad to see you over here Baron you comments have helped me repeatly over time Have a GREAT DAY
Baron23
Well-Known Member
You too, man
Kimosabe
Educator/Cannabis Evangelist
The spring is bent inward using metal tools like drift pin and small hammer.
The O-ring now holds the flaccid door closed with ease against zero force,
The latch fingers on the Stealth MV1 holding the door shut do not appear to be painted over chrome plating. Rather, the material appears to be brittle and in all likelihood molded of reground recovered metal powder.
The O-ring now holds the flaccid door closed with ease against zero force,
The latch fingers on the Stealth MV1 holding the door shut do not appear to be painted over chrome plating. Rather, the material appears to be brittle and in all likelihood molded of reground recovered metal powder.
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Kimosabe
Educator/Cannabis Evangelist
The pictures shoe the spring bent so far inwards it is now behind the oval opening
Zero resistance against door closure
O-ring (white) secures door shut, barely needed. in fact, get that spring out of the picture and the door stays shut with frictional forces of gaskets against crucible.
If the unit was designed to simply hold the door shut and that would activate the "fire" switch. nearly all the moving parts would be eliminated and points of failure vastly reduced
Zero resistance against door closure
O-ring (white) secures door shut, barely needed. in fact, get that spring out of the picture and the door stays shut with frictional forces of gaskets against crucible.
If the unit was designed to simply hold the door shut and that would activate the "fire" switch. nearly all the moving parts would be eliminated and points of failure vastly reduced
Summer
Long Island, NY
Always 5 - 6 depending on efficacy of herb. The 6th hit tastes popcornish. Sometimes I'll temp step: 1 hit at level 1; 1 @ 2; 3 @ 3 & Last one @ 4. Other times I do all 5 at level 3 & the final hit at 4. Depends on herb quality & mood.
cosimo
Well-Known Member
In my unit calibrated on the lower end of temps, with my favorite very resinous strain... 6 big clouds at 2 amber, then 3-4 at 1 red to finish the crucible.
With leafy strains or without much resin... 2-4 hits at 2 amber (only first two are big clouds, rest are wispy), 1-2 more to finsih at 1 red.
Strain/herbs and how you fill the crucibles play a huge role. I have strain that has many leaves, normal amount of resin, and i sometime get no clouds, but 3 hits at 2 amber and im the highest ive been.
SourLemon
Member
Thank you both for the reply. I've been getting 3 good hits per crucible lately, but I do use red 1 for every hit so that might be why. I do remember when I first got the MV1 though I seemed to getting more out my herb. I might try starting off at a lower temp again to see if my 'yield' gets any better.
Cheers.
Cheers.
cosimo
Well-Known Member
No prob. BTW, I just tested... If i stay at red temps, I get a couple less hits than if i started at lower temps... huh, had not noticed that.
Anyhow, make sure your are not unintentionally over-packing the crucible or packing it in a way in which airflow is restricted. Someone pointed out to me that i was filling with more herb than last time we had met and I really wasn't aware of it, so i guess it could have happened to you too.
Dopeydiver
Well-Known Member
I posted on the old site that I was able to fix my Stealth door latch problem. I had a good several years use without problems, then dropped it, breaking off part of the latch plastic. I initially glued the plastic back on, but it eventually failed again. I then searched for a a more permanent solution, and am happy to have found one. If you look at the pictures posted on the previous page, the hinged latch part is the last few photos I believe. In any event, the latch itself is comprised of two plastic lines to which a solid angled piece is molded. It is that solid angled piece that breaks or wears off after time.
This time, I used a 1/32 drill bit that fits into the channel between the two plastic lines, as close to the edge as possible, so the angle is consistent with that of the latch. I then drilled through the latch door. (It is easier if you remove the door from the MV1 first). Then you but a size 3 x 5/8 wood screw and screw it part way into the hole. You need to check to find the correct depth to hold the crucible holder closed, but still allow it to open. I needed to drill a little through the hole into the crucible holder to allow greater depth of the screw. For that you will want the latch back on the MV1. A photo shows the final solution. The screw not only holds the crucible door closed, but it makes for a good lever to hold the latch open for opening and closing. The parts cost me .50 at a hardware store. I probably could get by with a size 3 x 3/8, or even 3 x 1/4, but I like the extra amount to use as a lever,
If anyone no longer wants their Ghost MV1 because of the latch problem, I am more than happy to take them off your hands to use for parts. I still love this vape and intend to use it until I find something better. Went back to my Haze Dual Chamber on the night it broke. As much as I loved that Haze the Ghost puts it to shame.
Good luck.
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Summer
Long Island, NY
@Dopeydiver, how about a couple of different angled pics in brighter lighting & a pic of the inside latch adaptation with the crucible door open?
DryBonesufo
Well-Known Member
Anyone have a battery for sale?
badbee
Well-Known Member
I've been looking for batteries off and on for the last 6 months and they are few and far between. Also a ridiculous price for two used 18650's worth $10 new and another $1 worth of plastic and circuitry. On the previous page of this thread @Northbear posted instructions on how to pop the end cap off the MV1 battery holder. I tried and it really works, opened it up in literally 5 seconds. I didn't even need to pry on the cells, they came out with a hard shake. It's one of those things that makes you want to smack yourself when you see how easy it is and how obvious it should have been.
The MV1 only draws about 6 Amps so any cells that supports 15 A will serve, top power draw cells aren't required. Samsung 30Q should be perfect.
If you try it let us know how it goes, no guarantees of course.
Edit: Forgot a link, they aren't allowing buying\selling here on NewFC but the marketplace on Reddit is very active (I've never bought there but lots of people do) r/EntExchange
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DryBonesufo
Well-Known Member
I am wondering if I can use the battery of my old Ghost. So I have two Ghosts’. The first Ghost had some overheating problems and I think it was a defective unit. Ghost was kind enough to offer to send me a new one . I failed to send in the faulty unit in.
Based on your explanation, seems as though the ghost batteries are easy to replace. So basically pop it open and just place the battery where it needs to be?
DryBonesufo
Well-Known Member
On second thought... anyone have any spare crucibles to sell? Please message me.
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
How did you figure out the draw, did you hook it up to a meter?