Discontinued Ghost MV1

Summer

Long Island, NY
@ghostvapesofficial, please confirm that plating is chrome or other. Thanks!


I find if you push on the door as you release the latch,

Don't understand what you said at all. Don't you mean pull out, not push, the right-side inner hinge of the crucible portal door when you pop the latch? If you were to push on the door you would be preventing it from opening. Me thinks we need a video. :lol:
 
Summer,
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Ohm and Away

Active Member
The chrome MV1's are plated plastic.
Plated with what?
@ghostvapesofficial
Don't understand what you said at all. Don't you mean pull out, not push, the right-side inner hinge of the crucible portal door when you pop the latch? If you were to push on the door you would be preventing it from opening.
I think he had it right. There's a spring constantly pushing the crucible holder mechanism outwards even when the door is closed. By pushing the door in, you release that outward pressure on the latch, then when you press the door button there is no pressure against the plastic latch thingy to break it. It would be like "push the door closed, press the door release button, release your hold on the door allowing it to open" and I agree it would probably help. Too late for me though, and it still just seems like a design flaw.
 
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martinstraka8282

Well-Known Member
Plated with what?

I think he had it right. There's a spring constantly pushing the crucible holder mechanism outwards even when the door is closed. By pushing the door in, you release that outward pressure on the latch, then when you press the door button there is not pressure against the plastic latch thingy to break it. It would be like "push the door closed, press the door release button, release your hold on the door allowing it to open" and I agree it would probably help. Too late for me though, and it still just seems like a design flaw.
You're correct, that's what I meant. Thanks for clarifying.

Press on the crucible door pushing in that spring thus alleviating pressure on the latch.
Press and hold latch switch.
Let pressure off door and allow it to open past the latch.
Release latch switch.
Open door rest of the way.
 

MinnBobber

Well-Known Member
I find if you push on the door as you release the latch, it alleviates a lot of the pressure on that clip. I can tell just by feel that there's a fair amount of stress on that part.
...............................................................
Just confirmed that this works. Door and release latch are under constant pressure/tension.
Push in slightly on the right side of door and this relieves tension, then the latch is much easier to push to the right.

The latch release button can be very difficult to move, especially when new! That difficulty is compounded by its shape.
It has a "smooth flow design" (to match the overall form of the MV I presume) instead of a sharp-edged configuration for your finger to solidly engage. Your finger tends to slide over the smooth edge of the latch. Pushing in on the door can be a big help in easy opening.
 

arb

Semi shaved ape
Arb, how can you not talk about it? There's 2 members here & 1 on VLF that has developed this broken latch hinge issue. It has to be talked cause it may very be a mfr'ing batch issue or production run issue, but whatever it is, those of us with the latest-release vapes have the potential of having this issue. Until I know more, I'm being very gentle when I close the crucible door & when I open the latch.

@ghostvapesofficial, I really do think the old version had to be ss judging by the way it looks -- shine, reflection, color. So was the old version ss, or another solid metal or chrome overlaid on plastic? Please do see if you can find out. I think it's an important part of the story, & I'd like to know. :nod: :)


I agree 100% and definitely think it needs discussed.
I have been chastised as have others for the same thing in other threads so I assumed it was that way.
Now I see it is subjective so never mind..........my bad.
Coated plastic you say?
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
Door and release latch are under constant pressure/tension.
Push in slightly on the right side of door and this relieves tension, then the latch is much easier to push to the right.

The piece that keeps it under tension so that the crucible door will push forward/open appears to be a ss convex tension (bendable) metal band in the back of the crucible holder portal which flattens out when the door is closed with the crucible in it. & then when you open the latch the tension on the band eases & becomes convex again, thereby, pushing the door forward.
 
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Ohm and Away

Active Member
The piece that keeps it under tension so that the crucible door will push forward/open appears to be a ss convex tension (bendable) metal band in the back of the crucible holder portal which flattens out when the door is closed with the crucible in it. & then when you open the latch the tension on the band eases & becomes convex again, thereby, pushing the door forward.

The door is constantly pushed forward. I know this because after the latch breaks it won't stay closed, you can push it as hard as you want, it still bounces open again. It's not a small amount of pressure either, relatively speaking.

On another note, I'm desperately seeking an online retailer that sells wax pens and offers shipping via DHL. If anyone could point me in the right direction it would be hugely appreciated.
 
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Ohm and Away,
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sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
My understanding of "material safety" is that they do not want discussions of materials in general.

For example, there are people who "swear by" and others who "swear at" materials such as Aluminum, Titanium, Nickel, and the various grades of Stainless steel.

To discuss the failure of a particular part and what it is made of seems 100% legit to me.
 

Alexis

Well-Known Member
My understanding of "material safety" is that they do not want discussions of materials in general.

For example, there are people who "swear by" and others who "swear at" materials such as Aluminum, Titanium, Nickel, and the various grades of Stainless steel.

To discuss the failure of a particular part and what it is made of seems 100% legit to me.
Indeed, this is not a question of material "safety" at all, but of material "durability".
 

fatbiker

Well-Known Member
So I’m back with an update to the issue I experienced with the vape button sticking in. I sent an email to Ghost on Monday and I received a replacement unit today! Talk about fast customer service. Couldn’t be more satisfied with their prompt support. I have not tried the new unit yet but I’m sure it’s good. Thanks again for your help @ghostvapesofficial
 

AJS

Calm Consistency
Having trouble getting perfect results out of the MV1. The performance is great, but the abv isn't. Typically the left side of the load is nearly always vaped more than the right. It isn't a perfect line, it's a bit ambiguous, but typically the left side is just a bit darker with the bottom left of the load typically being the darkest. Not a fan of stirring a vape that is already difficult to stir.
 

Alexis

Well-Known Member
Having trouble getting perfect results out of the MV1. The performance is great, but the abv isn't. Typically the left side of the load is nearly always vaped more than the right. It isn't a perfect line, it's a bit ambiguous, but typically the left side is just a bit darker with the bottom left of the load typically being the darkest. Not a fan of stirring a vape that is already difficult to stir.
Was this also the case with the unit you borrowed and tested just recently? If not, then we must wonder- Why so? :shrug:
 
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AJS

Calm Consistency
Was this also the case with the unit you borrowed and tested just recently? If not, then we must wonder- Why so? :shrug:

The other one didn't necessary do the left half, but would sometimes get more of a lightning bolt type of abv, not intense, but not great abv. Decent tho.
 

Alexis

Well-Known Member
The other one didn't necessary do the left half, but would sometimes get more of a lightning bolt type of abv, not intense, but not great abv. Decent tho.
It would seem that quite a few already long(ish) time users have kind of fully accepted the uneven apprearance of their Ghost ABV, which it seems will frequently be a mixture of lighter green and yellow, plus darker brown and almost blackened specs.
I have heard owners say they are completely satisfied with the effects and the extraction thst they feel they have used the material well and havent lost much if anyhing.

As if, if you just didn't see the ABV, you wouldn't be upset overall. But it does seem to be a common feature of the MV1. Im sure if it was easier to stir this would be a smaller issue. It would seem to vary also, as your own experience has shown, between units as to how much and where exacty the uneveness occurs.

And actually, maybe more than usual, there is more general performance variation/differences between units? The underlying factors governing this, if understood better, could perhaps account for the varied evenness of extraction.

Until then though, ultimately, as long as performance is good enough, with consistent and decent vapor quality, hit size and effects, maybe the appearance of the extraction is a little more misleading and less important than normal?

No need to answer any of that @AJS , just thinking aloud and it is late here so....:zzz:
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
My understanding of "material safety" is that they do not want discussions of materials in general.

For example, there are people who "swear by" and others who "swear at" materials such as Aluminum, Titanium, Nickel, and the various grades of Stainless steel.

To discuss the failure of a particular part and what it is made of seems 100% legit to me.

Let me clarify so that this off-topic discussion can be brought to a close. We do not disallow discussions of materials safety. Our rules do not permit such discussion in specific model threads. Materials safety topics must be general in nature (i.e. must not refer to specific vapourizers) and must be posted in Vaporization Discussion. Discussion of durability is fine in model-specific threads.
 

arb

Semi shaved ape
So if it breaks that can be discussed but if it will kill or injure you that is not?
 
arb,

arb

Semi shaved ape
:bang: I just said explicitly that materials safety discussions are allowed in the proper place. Try reading more carefully please.
Ok I read it SUPER slowly out loud several times and I am still confused.........if it breaks and a splinter gets stuck in your lip is that a safety or material concern?
 

wastedpotential

Well-Known Member
Ok I read it SUPER slowly out loud several times and I am still confused.........if it breaks and a splinter gets stuck in your lip is that a safety or material concern?

Discussion of durability is fine in model-specific threads.

I would think discussing a broken part is a 'durability' issue. That is not a 'material safety' issue.
Therefore, I question the "off-topic" status of the discussion and the need to 'close'.
At the same time... I yield to the moderators.
 
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Alexis

Well-Known Member
Ok I read it SUPER slowly out loud several times and I am still confused.........if it breaks and a splinter gets stuck in your lip is that a safety or material concern?
I think one way to look at it- there are some who strongly prefer to avoid silicone. Most are unconcerned. If somebody kept visiting this thread saying they don't think silicone is safe, the mods may try to discourage and curtail it, or as @pakalolo is getting at- redirect it to another thread which is focused on and devoted to material safety concerns, rather than allow the discussion to drag on undeterred in each or any specific device thread.

You can see it could be quite disruptive and problematic even when there are legitimate concerns raised. I don't personally feel that this is unreasonable, and I can appreciate the need to moderate this line of discussion without it being any type of censoring or silencing.
Just wanted to offer that perspective anyway have a really nice evening. :)
 

Brewervapesalot

Well-Known Member
This all sounds like a line in My Cousin Vinnie:

Vinny Gambini (Joe Pesci): [in opening statement, after plaintiff counsel's opening statement] “Uh. Everything that guy just said is bullshit. Thank you.”

DA Jim Trotter: “Objection. Counsel’s entire opening statement is argumentative.”

Judge Chamberlain Haller: “Sustained. Counselor’s entire opening statement, with the exception of ‘thank you,’ will be stricken from the record.”

:D


My :2c: is there might be an issue with between 2-3 latches and a chunk of 'em breaking because of anywhere from proper to improper use and/or a manufacturing defect. :D
 
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pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Ok I read it SUPER slowly out loud several times and I am still confused.........if it breaks and a splinter gets stuck in your lip is that a safety or material concern?

Wow. Sorry it's so hard for you.

Does the glass in this device break? <--- Durability.

Is broken glass a safe material to use? <--- Materials safety.

@wastedpotential: the posts about whether discussing the broken part violated our rules was off-topic, not the posts concerning the latch itself.

Edit: Posted before I saw @Stu's response, but I'm letting it stand.
 
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Ohm and Away

Active Member
My :2c: is there might be an issue with between 2-3 latches and a chunk of 'em breaking because of anywhere from proper to improper use and/or a manufacturing defect. :D

I'd love to know whether the two of us in this thread are the only ones who have reported this issue. Again, from taking it apart after it broke to get a better look, I'm stunned and bewildered that not every single unit is breaking in the same way.

Still waiting to hear what solution, if any, is going to be offered. I have no desire to get another identical replacement unit, the same thing will happen.
 
Ohm and Away,
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