Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

NexVision

Well-Known Member
I have the Orion and 1st Gen Flite. The Flite is more aggressive at heating then I had hoped even at 50% on the pwm. At some point I want to send in my Flite to change the coil to 16 mm.
Have you tried adjusting the coil to lower it?
 
NexVision,

Sticky13

Well-Known Member
I found heating in half cycles at full power works a charm; Ex- 5 seconds heat, pull out for for 3-4seconds, back in for 5seconds or so, or take it to the click if you wish.. but 1-2seconds before the click produces some phat tastey hits. Gives the VC a different touch not using the click👍

Many thanks Jeff ;) .. loving the Flite, no trailing leads is a touch.

 
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Aos3327

Well-Known Member
I found heating in half cycles at full power works a charm; Ex- 5 seconds heat, pull out for for 3-4seconds, back in for 5seconds or so, or take it to the click if you wish.. but 1-2seconds before the click produces some phat tastey hits. Gives the VC a different touch not using the click👍

Many thanks Jeff ;) .. loving the Flite, no trailing leads is a touch.

Is that the hunter green? Gorgeous.
 
I have the Orion and 1st Gen Flite. The Flite is more aggressive at heating then I had hoped even at 50% on the pwm. At some point I want to send in my Flite to change the coil to 16 mm.
This aggression (the orion) will not stand, man!

Hearing this I'm definitely glad I opted for the 16. I did not care for the orion.

Thanks for the input!
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
@swieder711 and @Iholland17 - The aggression is the height of the coil - Jeff can adjust this as he realized he might have set a few too hot; how fast it heats is the diameter of the coil. 15mm coils are a little more finicky to adjust the 16mm coils which are slower cookers and have a wider range for adjusting to the click-temp. In fact it is possible to make the heater even hotter and function perfectly well.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Hi all,

A quick update to say that I am almost done with Flite batch #2. I have 7 heaters left and expect to complete these today. Today is a postal holiday so the heaters I finished this weekend will go out tomorrow. After I finish batch #2 I have a few random Flite orders to complete; if one is yours we have already discussed it over email. I'll do those next.

I'm getting more comfortable making these and have already started batch #3, so hopefully I'll continue to shave time from the process as I make more of them. I will be posting Flite batch #3 for sale in my store later this week, exact date coming soon! I will also have an update on Flix v2 (with cap-as-switch and optional PWM!), which is also coming very soon. I have the final release candidate on my work bench as I write this, and I can say that the Flix with mains-powered PWM works very, very well. ;) You guys will like it!

Finally, if you have a Flite from batch #1 and it's too hot, please send me a PM or email and we will work out the details for sending it back for a coil adjustment, swapping it to a 16mm coil, and/or adding a push button. Thanks!

Cheers!
:leaf:
 
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mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
The prices for these IHs seems to be a bit high in my opinion. Am I off, or do they cost too much for what they do?

Eh, they're hand made, custom designed electronic devices. I make them in small runs, in the US, and they come with pretty solid post-sales support. The pricing reflects the effort involved to make and support them, and is comparable to prices for hand made guitar effects pedals.

So far the demand has been strong, but the free market will let me know if my prices are off by a bunch. :) Thanks!
 
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RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
The prices for these IHs seems to be a bit high in my opinion. Am I off, or do they cost too much for what they do?

Take a close look at “Dynatec Orion Induction Heater”, $200, a mass produced Chinese glued shut plastic box, with no replacement plan for battery replacement, as well as some reported issues, that I don’t bother following, hence not available on the dynavap site.... then make a comparison to a Fluxer...

so yeah, you are “off”.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
@Iholland17 - The optional charger is a CVCC charger and will stop at whatever safety limit they use.
They cannot go over 12.6V so they are normally a few tenths under.
This will affect full charge but not to the extent you are showing.

Do you have a proper li-ion charger?
Or - can you measure the voltage on the charger when it goes from red to green? It should be well over 12V when the charger cuts off and the resting voltage should be well over 12V too. If you don't get 12.x volts, see if there is an imbalance in the cells.
For the purist among us [guilty], know that the upper end of the charge voltage still carries a lot of capacity. I use a more precise charger to ensure my cells are full [and faster charging]. I am using the on-board charge capabilities rather than remove cell though.
 
@Iholland17 - The optional charger is a CVCC charger and will stop at whatever safety limit they use.
They cannot go over 12.6V so they are normally a few tenths under.
This will affect full charge but not to the extent you are showing.

Do you have a proper li-ion charger?
Or - can you measure the voltage on the charger when it goes from red to green? It should be well over 12V when the charger cuts off and the resting voltage should be well over 12V too. If you don't get 12.x volts, see if there is an imbalance in the cells.
For the purist among us [guilty], know that the upper end of the charge voltage still carries a lot of capacity. I use a more precise charger to ensure my cells are full [and faster charging]. I am using the on-board charge capabilities rather than remove cel

This is the charger and that meter my only way to test.
 
Iholland17,
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mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
So looking for some help. Thought I was at full charge bc the indicator light on the charger turned from red to green. Decided to double check with a meter and I'm only at 50% and it will no go further. Any suggestions? Bad batteries? Photos on link.

@mr_cfromcali @TommyDee


Sorry you are having an issue charging, @Iholland17 .

:hmm: The Flite uses the same charger used by the Flux Deluxe, which you also have IIRC. How well does it charge the batteries in the FD? If it fails to charge those, too, then it's likely the fault of the charger. If it charges the cells in the FD fully but only partially charges the ones in the Flite, that suggests a bad cell in the Flite. It's also possible that the battery indicator has an issue - they aren't built like Teslas ;) - but we'll leave that aside for the moment. Or, if you have two of these chargers, try the other one on the Flite and see if it is any better? Let's take this to email or PM, OK? We'll get this sorted out.
 
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feralcomprehension

Qualified Observer
Eh, they're hand made, custom designed electronic devices. I make them in small runs, in the US, and they come with pretty solid post-sales support. The pricing reflects the effort involved to make and support them, and is comparable to prices for hand made guitar effects pedals.

So far the demand has been strong, but the free market will let me know if my prices are off by a bunch. :) Thanks!
Classy reply; props.
 

Jethro

Well-Known Member
My opinion, being a holy trinity owner- ope, did I just coin that phrase? - is that all the Fluxor devices I've bought are priced more than fair. Jeff's transparency in his design and his customer support is unparalleled to be honest. His dedication to customer satisfaction has probably been a tough row to hoe, he's made mistakes and owned them fully and openly and I can only imagine worked himself to the bone on making these projects right! My Flux deluxe had to go back to him a few times I believe and in the end he delivered me the perfect tool for the job. He's done this with countless others. Underpaid if you ask me, Jeff!

119 pages and this is the first time I’ve seen anyone say this. Thanks.

Yeah, like many here I've been involved in this thread since the beginning. Anyone who knows what goes into making these little beauties understands how much they are worth.

And by the way this Flite is the fucking bees kneez, dude... loving this little powerhouse!
 
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Zoltani

Well-Known Member
I would pay for another one if I lost this one or dropped it off a cliff.

I received a 2020M and the heating profile is much different than my 2018M. I am pretty sure my '18 cap was abused to the point of changing the heating profile as I was often combusting, not just with the flite but also with a torch. The 2020M is much more forgiving and it gives me an even and not blackened bake. I was starting tp think that my flite ran too hot and I was going to have to ship it in for an adjustment, but this is perfect with the 2020M.
 

Texus

Well-Known Member
I would pay for another one if I lost this one or dropped it off a cliff.

I received a 2020M and the heating profile is much different than my 2018M. I am pretty sure my '18 cap was abused to the point of changing the heating profile as I was often combusting, not just with the flite but also with a torch. The 2020M is much more forgiving and it gives me an even and not blackened bake. I was starting tp think that my flite ran too hot and I was going to have to ship it in for an adjustment, but this is perfect with the 2020M.
Interesting info and great data points. Also makes me realize that I've only used my Ti tips (current one and recent 7-fin surprise) so far and not the Steel from my 2020M.

Regardless, still need to get things dialed back in my unit. But maybe some SS data points before sending it back are warranted....
 

n0tu2

Well-Known Member
Been a while with no update, but all is working well. I lowered the 15mm as far as I possibly could. Picked up a couple new caps and a 2020 tip. Got an SS low temp and standard caps. My original DY4 caps were all done, too much abuse and baked everything. 1 hit and done with a few bits combusted with the original caps (they are very bronze colored, new caps are more light silver). Flite seems to work well with 2020 SS tip and caps. Now I'm thinking about raising the coil , LOL. 9.5seconds till first click with SS low temp, about 11.50s with SS standard. Successive clicks are about 2-3 seconds less for each. I feel like I can go beyond the click now with some good timing before pulling.

Also picked up a new stem the "BB vapes tectonic". A little bulky/heavier then dyna stems, but I like it. It has two adjustable air holes (one on stem (ring), and one on mouth piece (twist)) with the low temp cap I think I got about 8 or 10+ clicks with the BB. most vapor was 2nd n 3rd click but there was little something in each click.. and it was ice cold first 2 clicks. the tectonic is very thick. only negative is it's so heavy really gotta make sure it's balanced on the magnet before you let go so it free stands or it wobbles and could tip and fall off flite if the wobble is too great (if u accidently tap it). it's definitely better then old original dyna stems, but I've never tried an omni or other higher ends. vapor is very cool.

n
 

Zoltani

Well-Known Member
I got a tectonic and don't like it so far but I think that is due to an air leak at the tip, I cannot get a tight seal between the tip and the tectonic stem. The mouthpiece is garbage too, but that can be changed as I understand.
 
Zoltani,
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n0tu2

Well-Known Member
hmm, it is very airy. i don't think you can 100% close the airflow on it. i closed the ring all the way and the mouthpiece all the way. tested it by removing the tip and covering with finger till most draw resistance i could achieve, spun ring while drawing. still a little air comes in, but definitely has a lot of resistance before i can overcome it. did the same with tip installed covering/pressing finger into chamber to block it. its def not for everyone, its budget . but i think i got a good one. possible orings need to be a bit fatter. try draw harder to make up for the air leak?

the other issue i had is caps were loose on new 2020tip but that was dynavap, just would fall off. i bent the diggers in hard to grab hold of the tip otherwise they just slipped off. squeeze method didn't work well on the new caps. my original cap won't come off in a hurricane, lol.

ps. not an ad for tectonic. ymmv on mass produced stems, i like it tho..

n
 
n0tu2,

rvarick

Well-Known Member
Apologies for a mundane shipping-related question - but have any other Flite folks had their package fall into an extended stay in the SF, CA USPS facility while en route? Mine has been stuck there for almost a week now with no scanning. Realize things are still a huge mess currently with the USPS but wasn't sure if anyone could offer any comfort, or metrics on if/when my shipment may come unstuck? Or, just commiserate?
 
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Zoltani

Well-Known Member
hmm, it is very airy. i don't think you can 100% close the airflow on it. i closed the ring all the way and the mouthpiece all the way. tested it by removing the tip and covering with finger till most draw resistance i could achieve, spun ring while drawing. still a little air comes in, but definitely has a lot of resistance before i can overcome it. did the same with tip installed covering/pressing finger into chamber to block it. its def not for everyone, its budget . but i think i got a good one. possible orings need to be a bit fatter. try draw harder to make up for the air leak?

the other issue i had is caps were loose on new 2020tip but that was dynavap, just would fall off. i bent the diggers in hard to grab hold of the tip otherwise they just slipped off. squeeze method didn't work well on the new caps. my original cap won't come off in a hurricane, lol.

ps. not an ad for tectonic. ymmv on mass produced stems, i like it tho..

n

I tried it with my 2020 tip and it worked much better. That mouthpiece though, I don't know if I can get used to it. The hits I get are much cooler than a stock M, so that is a plus. It's just gonna take some getting used to. I won't give you on it yet, but I'm kind of wishing I put this money towards a simrell shorty or something.

On a side note, I noticed the condenser on the 2020M had a much larger diameter than my old 2018M.
 
Zoltani,
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