Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

[pxl_jockey]

I had replaced my original coil with a more aggressive version and it’s ruined my enjoyment & experience with the FD. That’s why I’ve been so quiet here and haven’t had anything to add... because I’m not able to use the bloody thing at all anymore. I wish I hadn’t been curious about the different coil diameters because I was very happy with the performance before and used it all the time but after switching out the coil, my FD is running way too hot. It’s just roasting/burning my weed now and the VC’s cap gets stuck on the tip every time and cannot be removed until it cools down. I’ve tried many tip & cap combos, and the issues are consistent; it’s a tremendous pain in the ass that’s reduced my FD to simply collecting dust. Anyone here with any advice or experience with this please lmk, I DM’d with mr_c in August with no reply (guess he’s too busy rn) and just haven’t bothered to reach out again. Fortunately, like most here, I have other options so I’m not sweating it.

I’ve ordered some new batteries with a lower CDR than the Sony VTC-5As to see if that helps, although the Sony’s worked amazingly well before the coil switch. If the new batts don’t help, I’m sending the FD back and don’t really care how long it takes because I’m certainly not getting any use of it and just pisses me off every time I happen to look over and see it.

 

[lookhigh]

What size coil did you have now?
I find the 15 coil a little too aggressive but getting more used to it now.
lots more to do before i would change size

 

[funkyhomer]

I agree the 15 mm is a bit aggressive. My first few days with it had a decent amount of combusting which didn’t really happen with my pipes PSM. I would probably recommend the 16 mm to new buyers. The 15 mm coil can be gotten used to and I have changed my habits to quickly removing after the click, but there is a learning curve.

I would also strongly recommend investing in the external switch. I don’t find myself ever really leaving the house with my vapes, not getting that feature was a missed opportunity.

 

[ClearBlueLou]

I find I have a definite preference for 5-fin tips, SS or Ti either.

This is after trying several different Ms (5-fin original SS), and 2 7-fins and a 5-fin (1 original 7-fin, 1 5 and 2 7s released later) my Omni.

The 7-fins consistently give a darker flavor and darker ABV. 5-fins take it.

Anyone else notice such a thing?

@pxl_jockey, what were you using?

 

[endof3d]

I had replaced my original coil with a more aggressive version and it’s ruined my enjoyment & experience with the FD. That’s why I’ve been so quiet here and haven’t had anything to add... because I’m not able to use the bloody thing at all anymore. I wish I hadn’t been curious about the different coil diameters because I was very happy with the performance before and used it all the time but after switching out the coil, my FD is running way too hot. It’s just roasting/burning my weed now and the VC’s cap gets stuck on the tip every time and cannot be removed until it cools down. I’ve tried many tip & cap combos, and the issues are consistent; it’s a tremendous pain in the ass that’s reduced my FD to simply collecting dust. Anyone here with any advice or experience with this please lmk, I DM’d with mr_c in August with no reply (guess he’s too busy rn) and just haven’t bothered to reach out again. Fortunately, like most here, I have other options so I’m not sweating it.

I’ve ordered some new batteries with a lower CDR than the Sony VTC-5As to see if that helps, although the Sony’s worked amazingly well before the coil switch. If the new batts don’t help, I’m sending the FD back and don’t really care how long it takes because I’m certainly not getting any use of it and just pisses me off every time I happen to look over and see it.

Sorry to hear that your FD no longer provides the satisfying experience it once did. Interested in knowing if the lower discharge batteries you’ve ordered solves the problem. Here’s hoping it does.

FWIW. On page 122 of @Pipes thread a member who was building his own IH and wanted to slow down the time the coil took to get a ‘click’ asked for advice. @Pipes responded with this:

“Insertion depth is your only control. Having the tip close to the end windings is the longest click but also can be too hot if inserted too far and may combust before the click. If the depth is not deep enough, a long count after the click is needed and heat distribution will not be as even with the tip been hotter. I found about 2-3 mil shy of the last winding is good.”

@Pipes also addresses the ‘to hot’ issue in an earlier post by saying: “I think the easiest and double-duty solution lay with the use of 12mm cork discs. The kind you find for putting under glass table tops and cabinet door stops. This was mentioned a couple of pages back where a user wanted his cap to click at a cooler time. They added a cork spacer to cool the temperature some.”

Not sure if any of the above helps, hope all works out.

 

[mr_cfromcali]

Anyone here with any advice or experience with this please lmk, I DM’d with mr_c in August with no reply (guess he’s too busy rn) and just haven’t bothered to reach out again.

Sorry for not getting back to you, @pxl_jockey - your DM came as I was traveling, and I forgot to follow up w/you. My bad. If you want to reduce the heat profile, we should swap you to a 16mm coil. I'll send you a DM and we can go from there.

For other folks with FDs that heat more aggressively than they like: I am very sorry some people have found the 15mm coil to be too hot for them. As with many things, this is a matter of taste, and not everyone likes to heat their vapcaps this aggressively, although some do. Using low CDR batteries will often take the edge off, but a larger coil will correct the underlying issue and reduce the speed with which the device heats. For my heater, this is the best and most direct solution for "it gets too hot, too fast".

If any FD owner would like to swap coils or have me add an external switch, send me a DM and we'll work it out. I want you to be happy w/the device, and the coil size is a big part of the way it operates. There is some trial and error to figuring out how to get the desired experience from the FD, and in this case 'too hot' = 'error.' The main expense/inconvenience w/a coil swap is shipping, but if you are within the US, shipping isn't all that expensive - round trip USPS Priority Mail shipping will typically be ~$22 w/insurance, and closer to $15 without.

Sorry I don't have any Apple Store-like boutiques to provide hands-on experiences prior to purchase, but sharing your experiences with one another is probably the next best thing. Thanks for being candid. I want people to enjoy using this, and the FD's coil size is equivalent to a shoe size - it needs to fit you to be comfortable.

Cheers,

 

[Baron23]

There isn't any room to move the coil up or down. I suppose it could be possible to remove the top o-ring and move the coil up the equivalent space - 1mm at most - but that's it. The coil insert is ~19mm tall. The coil is ten turns (10T). The tactile switch + pyrex button, PCB, and bottom spacer take up the rest of the that vertical space, which is ~5mm. There is typically only a 1mm gap between the lid and the top of the insert So...no, IMO you can't really tweak the coil height in any meaningful way.

This device is what it is, and there are trade-offs with this orientation, coil depth being one of them. Coil diameter is the chief means of affecting the heating profile on this device. I do offer a variety of coil diameters, and they have a big effect on the way the device heats your vapcap: 14mm ( most aggressive), 15mm, and 16mm (least aggressive).

FWIW, I will soon be adding a 4th size, a thicker walled 16mm insert that provides a slower heating time for more flavorful vapor. The thicker insert centers the vapcap and assures the maximum possible distance from the coil, for the slowest heating time I plan on offering with this device. I've tried a 17mm coil and the heater had some issues with it, so I don't plan on going any bigger than 16mm at the moment. I'll be introducing the 16T coil as soon as I have time to prepare the coil size comparison data - something long overdue! - and make a video.

Maybe not the answer you were hoping for, but it's what I can offer.

Cheers,

Love the interaction with the community and your transparency and openess.

I am on the wait list....it will still be a good while...but I am looking forward to giving you my specifics and getting one of your devices.

Cheers and best of luck. As far as I can tell, you are knocking it out of the park (well, perhaps except for lead time! haha)

 

[wilky]

i had a 15mm and now i changed to a 16mm much better less aggressive ,

 

[pxl_jockey]

Thank you @wilky , I had a 16 and went to a 15mm and definitely prefer the 16mm all day long and half the night.

@ClearBlueLou Like you, I have a few different fin/gen tips of both Ti & SS and tried them all with the 15mm coil and while I noticed the 7-fins did run a bit hotter, all of the tip/cap combos were getting way too hot. They all stayed way too hot with a crazy amount of time before the cool-down click, and never before have I had a cap stick to a tip, all of them stick only after heating and only become "unstuck" until well after the cool-down click. Ive never seen anything like it tbh, we'll see if the lower CDR batteries influence the experience.

Thanks @mr_cfromcali Will do, I just saw your DM but haven't read it yet. Hope I didn't come across angry w/ you, only my FD; I understand you've got a lot of plates in the air and honestly thought you were just that busy. I don't know how just one guy finds enough energy and time to do what you do, with another full-time job and a family! I think it's important for all of us to remember and perhaps something that people currently waiting or new to your thread aren't even aware of. Thanks for the DM!

@Baron23 I gotta agree with you on mr_c's top notch communication and transparency, not to mention his ability to teach and break stuff down so that even I can understand. But yeah, his personality/character has impressed me since Day 1 of this thread. I also still think that he's got the best-looking IH out there and still can't believe that he designed his own custom circuit board for his devices. Also his use of top-shelf components. There's quite a bit that separates the FD from the pack imo, but I'll stop now!

EDIT: Mr_C rocks

 

[vapenerd]

If the 15mm is so aggressive then what about the 14mm? Who wants that and why is it still sold?

Just wondering.

 

[Jethro]

I have a 14mm and I absolutely love it. Heats quick and works great with the Dyancoil and concentrates. I use more concentrates these days. But I may add a 16mm for a flavor chasing flower device. Maybe.

 

[poison]

Right now I'm waiting for my first device. I've choosen 15mm. I make this decision because of the description "how it works, how many hits/puffs" etc. On my DIY IH I have standard coil (probably 16mm) without glass and I got 3 sessions/puffs from one bowl, no combustion but abv is dark. I expect that 15mm will be similar. There is a new relay so it could works a little bit in different way that last versions with mosfets. I will see soon how it will work and give you a meritorical review.

 

[Moses Baca]

We started with the 14 mm coil. It was fast but we got used to it and loved it. I decided to swap for the 15 mm coil when I sent it back for service. I was mostly just curious to see if we'd notice a difference and middle of the road is generally a safe place to be. We love it.

It's difficult to objectively compare performance without having them side by side but it feels like the larger coil is a bit more forgiving. It's still very fast but the window of control seems larger. It's easy to stop heating a bit before the click to get more flavor or push it a bit after the click to squeeze out maximum vapor. Or just stop right at the click for consistent hits. It's super easy. 14 mm coil seemed more precise. I've never tried the 16 mm coil.

 

[mr_cfromcali]

If the 15mm is so aggressive then what about the 14mm? Who wants that and why is it still sold?

Just wondering.

I am going to put together a more comprehensive answer/document about the coil size, but let me answer @vapenerd 's specific question now:

I drew up the above graphic for the original model with the solid state relay. Although most of the heaters I sell now use an electromechanical (aka, analog) power relay, the Top Mount Temperature Control option still requires the solid state power relay. I keep the 14mm option around mostly for those devices, but at least one person has requested a 14mm + analog relay. So, I guess I offer it so that there's something for everyone. As an aside, a local pub offers a habañero burger, which they describe as "extremely hot...not a joke!" I hear it's just that - seriously hot, and they give you a bumper sticker if you finish it. Not for me, but great if it's what you want; I don't judge.

FWIW, the solid state relay + 14mm coil heats about the same as the analog relay + 15mm coil. This is due to the greater heat penetration achieved by the analog power relay's slower performance.

Finally, it is worth mentioning that there is also a difference between the performance of the original heater circuit MOSFETs (NVD5890NL) and the current heater circuit MOSFETs (IRLR7843). The originally-spec. NVD5890NLs heated more aggressively than the current IRLR7843 chips do, but their failure rate in this circuit was much too high. Their function, however, was excellent. Some of you are still running FD's with NVD5890NL MOSFETs and 14mm coils, and I hope these continue to work well for you! There's no reason to change it unless you're unhappy with it.

Cheers,

 

[lookhigh]

OK done some experiments and discovered a few things that may be of interest to some.
I was trying to run the 15mm coil so it would not be so hot.
I could not let it go to the second click or there would be some charring.

Experiment 1
Putting a spacer on the tactile switch.
Just make a wooden dowel and cut to size, the problem with this is it could fall out but easy to adjust height aka temp.

Experiment 2
A spacer in the cap.
Very easy to do and lots of variations depending on materials used.
1mm makes a difference of being able to go to the second click.
Metal washer makes longer heat retention, ceramic disc worked very well.

Experiment 3
This one is a bit tricky and i take no responsibility if you break your heater.
I gently pushed down the first loop on the coil shortening the whole coil by about 1mm. This makes my heater perform much more to my liking and i can now use the second click again.

I also think that such a small adjustment could be easily happen in the manufacturing as these are lovingly hand build, explaining why some love the 15mm more than others?

 

[Baron23]

OK done some experiments and discovered a few things that may be of interest to some.
I was trying to run the 15mm coil so it would not be so hot.
I could not let it go to the second click or there would be some charring.

Experiment 1
Putting a spacer on the tactile switch.
Just make a wooden dowel and cut to size, the problem with this is it could fall out but easy to adjust height aka temp.

Experiment 2
A spacer in the cap.
Very easy to do and lots of variations depending on materials used.
1mm makes a difference of being able to go to the second click.
Metal washer makes longer heat retention, ceramic disc worked very well.

Experiment 3
This one is a bit tricky and i take no responsibility if you break your heater.
I gently pushed down the first loop on the coil shortening the whole coil by about 1mm. This makes my heater perform much more to my liking and i can now use the second click again.

I also think that such a small adjustment could be easily happen in the manufacturing as these are lovingly hand build, explaining why some love the 15mm more than others?

Wow, my two clicks have always come very closely together. I mean in general...a characteristic of the caps I have used no matter heat source. I do have a Lucid and I'm on the waiting list for a Fluxer. Just wanted to clarify that.

 

[endof3d]

OK done some experiments and discovered a few things that may be of interest to some.
I was trying to run the 15mm coil so it would not be so hot.
I could not let it go to the second click or there would be some charring.

Experiment 1
Putting a spacer on the tactile switch.
Just make a wooden dowel and cut to size, the problem with this is it could fall out but easy to adjust height aka temp.

Thanks for the good information, especially the tip about lowering the first coil a mm. In your Experiment 1 you successfully used a wooden dowel spacer on top of tactile switch but commented that it can fall out. Had success with the wooden dowel also, but decided to substitute the wood for high temp silicone instead. Punched out a disk(s) from a muffin mold just big enough so it fit snug in the glass tube. Worked well.

If anyone decides to try this, I would suggest using a food grade silicone (no BPA) with a high temperature rating in the 450F to 500F range. Cheap silicone has undesirable fillers in it so always give it the thumb and finger twist test. If the silicone discolours (turns whitish) try another brand.

 

[mr_cfromcali]

OK done some experiments and discovered a few things that may be of interest to some.
I was trying to run the 15mm coil so it would not be so hot.
I could not let it go to the second click or there would be some charring.

Experiment 1
Putting a spacer on the tactile switch.
Just make a wooden dowel and cut to size, the problem with this is it could fall out but easy to adjust height aka temp.

Experiment 2
A spacer in the cap.
Very easy to do and lots of variations depending on materials used.
1mm makes a difference of being able to go to the second click.
Metal washer makes longer heat retention, ceramic disc worked very well.

Experiment 3
This one is a bit tricky and i take no responsibility if you break your heater.
I gently pushed down the first loop on the coil shortening the whole coil by about 1mm. This makes my heater perform much more to my liking and i can now use the second click again.

I also think that such a small adjustment could be easily happen in the manufacturing as these are lovingly hand build, explaining why some love the 15mm more than others?

Thanks for reporting back on your experimentations, @lookhigh ! Your solutions are very creative. I like your first two experiments, but #3 gives me some pause. I'll get to that in a moment.

First, though, I feel I need to state that as the builder, I would prefer to let the coil size determine the heating profile of the heater when possible, as it is the better mechanism for this. Obviously, it isn't very practical to change your coil if we're on different continents (as we are, in this case), but coil size is the best way to change the heating profile of a Flux Deluxe.

WRT to Experiment #1, when I first introduced the pyrex button, it was glued to a short, 1.5mm cap. The cap-and-pyrex button then snapped onto the top of the switch, raising the "floor" of the coil by about 2mm. Like your spacer did.

Users complained that the extra height caused the vapcap to not heat thoroughly. The comments are somewhere back in the thread - December or January, most likely.As a result I now glue the button directly to the top of the switch. I still have a quantity of the caps, however. If someone reading this wants to try this as a means of reducing your heating profile a bit, send me a DM here on FC. For about the cost of postage, I'll send you a cap-and-pyrex button. To install this you would need to a) pull off your existing pyrex button; b) carefully clean off the remnants of any silicone adhesive (which may suck); and c) snap on the new cap-and-button.

Experiment #3: "i take no responsibility if you break your heater."
Me, aka, "the guy who will be responsible for fixing your heater if you break it": Please don't do this. There isn't much clearance around the coil, and the case is aluminum. You probably won't break anything, but you might, and I don't want the coil to touch the case. Also, although the copper coil wire is pretty forgiving, it will continue to look bent if you bend it, even after you try to bend it back into shape.

Glad you found something that works better for you, @lookhigh ! I'm sorry I can't give #3 my endorsement, but I appreciate you sharing it.

Cheers,

 

[lookhigh]

I would like to apologist to @mr_cfromcali for posting my experiments here on FC, i should have checked with him first.
I worked in electrical repair and tinkering with things just come naturally to me and i didn't think to ok with him first.

The main reason is i wanted to see could i set this 15mm coil to my liking before all the hassle of returning it across the pond. Postage both ways adds up and also the chance of custom charges. If i was in the US i would have simply returned for a 16mm coil.
Anyway happy fluxing all.

 

[mr_cfromcali]

I would like to apologist to @mr_cfromcali for posting my experiments here on FC, i should have checked with him first.
I worked in electrical repair and tinkering with things just come naturally to me and i didn't think to ok with him first.

The main reason is i wanted to see could i set this 15mm coil to my liking before all the hassle of returning it across the pond. Postage both ways adds up and also the chance of custom charges. If i was in the US i would have simply returned for a 16mm coil.
Anyway happy fluxing all.

NO APOLOGY NECESSARY, @lookhigh ! I appreciate you working the problem and sharing your results! My biggest concern is someone without your level of electrical experience diving into their Flux Deluxe and inadvertently making it less safe. That would be bad.

Since we have opened this can of worms, let me try to point this discussion towards my preferred ways of fixing the root issue.

If you are in the US or Canada and want to change your coil size, please contact me. As I said before, the shipping is reasonable, and my turnaround time for this mod is quick.

If you are in the EU or Canada and have electrical experience (or are willing to find a local person with this experience), the actual coil swap procedure is straightforward, as I explain below. It's probably a 5-10 minute job for someone with the right tools. If someone in the EU or Canada wants to pursue this, I'll make you a replacement coil and send it to you. It will be a modest US$5 for the coil + insert (my cost, basically), plus US$15 for First Class Package Int'l shipping to EU, or $11 for First Class Package Int'l shipping to Canada. I realize that's still ~US$20, but this will be the right way to fix this issue, and save you from the expense of sending your FD on a round trip to the US.

The following steps assume an intermediate level of electrical repair experience.

To remove and replace a Flux Deluxe heating coil:

1. Unsolder each copper coil leg individually, then pull it free with a pair of pliers while the solder is still molten (or use one of several other methods - removing the coil isn't rocket science). Set it aside.
2. Remove the excess solder from the two holes on the PCB with a pump, wick, or vacuum, so the coil mounting holes are free of solder.
3. Insert the new coil into these holes, so that it rests flat on the top rubber O-ring. (The coil I provide will have ends ready to solder). NOTE: Because the coil legs poke out the other side of the PCB, it is helpful to rest the PCB on something to allow for room under the legs.
4. Solder each leg to the PCB, making sure you have good contact and coverage with your solder.
5. Trim the excess coil wire from the underside of the PCB.
6. The final step is to locate the coil under the hole in the lid. To do this, replace the lid and use a ~12mm dowel or pen to position the coil relative to the lid's hole. The copper wire will bend easily with a little pressure. A Sharpie pen is about the right diameter for this, and will work in a pinch.

If the above procedure sounds like something you would like to try, please send me a DM, and we'll go from there.

Cheers,

 

[LAWTHEONE]

I’m on the waiting list for this and assumed I would want the 14 mm, But after hearing everyone’s experiences I am thinking maybe I should switch to the 15 mm.

 

[lookhigh]

I would not go for the 14 mm. Even the 15 was a bit too hot for me.
The 15 would be perfect for a water tool bit too harsh for me personally.
We need some way of comparing them side by side.

 

[vapognak]

I love my 15mm, but I have to admit that I need to refrain myself to fill the cap to the top: for an even heating, I find that a 3/4 filled tip is perfect.

 

[lookhigh]

The all glass og is great for flavor.

 

[someTooL]

I’m just hoping to get an email saying I’ll have a Christmas present for myself. Heck I wouldn’t mind a Thanksgiving present either