Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

Whisper

Well-Known Member
I love reading about your heater, usually, I can tune out what's boring when reading. But, I find this thread quite interesting. I really like the look of this heater too. I am not looking to purchase one, because I've got something else ordered. But, I would happily send someone your way. Congratulations, I know you've worked very hard and it shows. I wish you continued success. :clap:
 

YaMon

Vaping since 2010
So far it's too derivative of @PipesThe potentiometer seems like a gimmick, little variation, nothing like you get moving the Dynavap in and out of the induction field.
Respectfully, I disagree. I found that the power setting while perfect for my VapCap ‘M,’ it was a little to warm for the Omni XL. In other words the Omni was harsher than the M if left in until the click. I need to prove my theory, but I suspect if I turn the power down a bit, the Flux Deluxe will work better with my titanium Omni. Has anyone else noticed the difference between the stainless and titanium tips?
 

Moses Baca

Colorado State Reformatory #8755
Respectfully, I disagree. I found that the power setting while perfect for my VapCap ‘M,’ it was a little to warm for the Omni XL. In other words the Omni was harsher than the M if left in until the click. I need to prove my theory, but I suspect if I turn the power down a bit, the Flux Deluxe will work better with my titanium Omni. Has anyone else noticed the difference between the stainless and titanium tips?

I was wondering about the differences in the tips when I read @Gray Area 's post earlier today. I have some guesses but I'll hold off until I can do my own testing. Curious about what others have found, too. Thanks for posting.

Anyone have suggestions for ordering batteries and a charger? I'm looking at IMRbatteries.com but thought I'd ask before pulling the trigger. Thanks.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Pure glass isn't conductive below its melting point.

Are you using glass with significant impurities that absorb induction energy and heat directly?

Wouldn't insulating properties of the glass work the opposite way, thicker is more insulating?

I haven't seen the effect you're describing if you have been using high quality glass on a DIY.

The borosilicate glass I'm using likely does have some impurity, and I am sure that impurity affects its performance in this regard.

I haven't seen the effect you're describing using high quality glass on a DIY.

I accept that you have not seen the effect I'm describing using high quality glass on a DIY IH.

I have observed it, however, in direct A/B testing between the various glass inserts I have used in my builds. The difference from middle thickness to either extreme is subtle, but it exists. The difference is most notable when going from the thickest glass insert to the thinnest. It is possible my heater may be more sensitive to this behavior than other IHs due to the thinner 16ga wire in its work coil. I don't know, I am not a testing lab or a physicist, just a guy making some small portable IHs for folks who want them. :wave:

I stand by what I wrote above, and mention it as another factor that affects the performance of this IH. If one is trying to get the hottest hit possible from my IH, I found that the thickness of the glass insert does have an affect. For my heater and inserts, thinner walled glass = a hotter hit.

Cheers,
:leaf:
 

dynauser

Member
I will be adding these inserts to the builds going forward. Any switches that need to be replaced will get the new version. The original switches will continue to work fine unless/until they are overheated past their more limited safety margin. If that happens, contact me, and we will determine the best way to proceed.

Awesome to hear. I just came here to catch up on this thread after about a week of usage. I had no issue combusting in this device. However my wife combusted in the device last night and burnt the switch .... (I blame wine ...). It still functions okay, however it looks about like the bare switch on the right in your image.

I'll probably send you an email to see about mailing it back to get the switch replaced and the glass added. Although I'm going to miss it while it's gone! I really am loving this thing.

I have a desktop IH that has a switch that flips always on and off. I love that heater as well. One issue it has though is if it's left on for a few minutes the unit gets very hot. I'm pretty disciplined about turning it on and off. With friends during a session though it often gets left on and gets extremely hot. I also find people combust in it often because no pressure is required to press the button. They put the VapCap in it and space out. Because with the Flux you have to put it in and press it, it requires a little thought to hold it down. Although it's clearly possible to combust. At least you have to keep your hands on the VapCap while it heats. Just my two sense having both style IH's.

Flux Deluxe batch #1 owners:

I glued up a batch of the pyrex switch protectors for you, and will be sending them out this week, along with the other batch #1 items I owe people:

Awesome I just caught up to this part. Sounds great. I'm guessing the switch isn't too tough to pop off and replace?
 
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mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Awesome to hear. I just came here to catch up on this thread after about a week of usage. I had no issue combusting in this device. However my wife combusted in the device last night and burnt the switch .... (I blame wine ...). It still functions okay, however it looks about like the bare switch on the right in your image.

I'll probably send you an email to see about mailing it back to get the switch replaced and the glass added. Although I'm going to miss it while it's gone! I really am loving this thing.

I have a desktop IH that has a switch that flips always on and off. I love that heater as well. One issue it has though is if it's left on for a few minutes the unit gets very hot. I'm pretty disciplined about turning it on and off. With friends during a session though it often gets left on and gets extremely hot. I also find people combust in it often because no pressure is required to press the button. They put the VapCap in it and space out. Because with the Flux you have to put it in and press it, it requires a little thought to hold it down. Although it's clearly possible to combust. At least you have to keep your hands on the VapCap while it heats. Just my two sense having both style IH's.



Awesome I just caught up to this part. Sounds great. I'm guessing the switch isn't too tough to pop off and replace?

Glad the unit is performing well for you, @dynauser ! Thanks for sharing your experience with it!

I'm sorry your switch took a hit. FWIW, it will only take a couple of minutes to change once I have it on the work bench. We can figure out over PM the best way to coordinate replacing it. This shouldn't be an issue going forward, as the pyrex buttons are very effective.
 

pxl_jockey

Just a dude
@mario Not sure who you’re asking and I’m not best qualified for sure but I do know:
You definitely want the flat tops. Button tops are no bueño for this.

As for brands, I’d recommend LG or Sony. IDK why really tho. Others might have better suggestions...

I went with Sony vtc5a & been happy but I’ve got nothing to compare them with.

Good luck!
 

mario

Well-Known Member
I was asking in general for the most part, unless there was something specific to pick out.

I had a feeling that button tops were out, but I wanted to make sure. I know there are some vapes out there that require different type of 18650s. I know back in the ecig days there were some like that.

In any case, I was thinking of sticking with VTC5 Sonys since that was always the brand that did me right in previous years. I used to have some LG's as well and they worked great.

Thanks for the heads up about button tops!
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker

Traveler

Well-Known Member
I was wondering about the differences in the tips when I read @Gray Area 's post earlier today. I have some guesses but I'll hold off until I can do my own testing. Curious about what others have found, too. Thanks for posting.

Anyone have suggestions for ordering batteries and a charger? I'm looking at IMRbatteries.com but thought I'd ask before pulling the trigger. Thanks.

@mario - I'll sign on to @pxl_jockey 's answer. I have a set of Sony VTC6s I bought from illumn.com (https://www.illumn.com/18650-sony-us18650vtc6-3000mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html), and they are great batteries. I also have a set of Sony VTC4s, and they're good, too, but I notice their smaller capacity. I assume the VTC5s slot in between these other two...
Another vote for illumn.com. I have used them a long time and have never received counterfeit batteries or had any purchase go wonky. Pretty great prices and shipping as well
 

mario

Well-Known Member
Another vote for illumn.com. I have used them a long time and have never received counterfeit batteries or had any purchase go wonky. Pretty great prices and shipping as well

Put in a purchase last night for a set of 3 SonyVTC6 batteries. I sprung the extra few bucks to get the 3000mah instead of the the 2600mah VTC5s. Can't wait to get the heater in my hands. I loved box mods made back in the day out of the Hammond boxes, even made one myself once. When I saw the the fluxer was built in a project box like that, I knew I had to have one :)
 

Tupak420

Well-Known Member
Put in a purchase last night for a set of 3 SonyVTC6 batteries. I sprung the extra few bucks to get the 3000mah instead of the the 2600mah VTC5s. Can't wait to get the heater in my hands. I loved box mods made back in the day out of the Hammond boxes, even made one myself once. When I saw the the fluxer was built in a project box like that, I knew I had to have one :)

I just ordered the Sony/Murata VTC6 15A-30A 3000mAh Flat Top 18650 Battery and Enook Alien E4 Charger from Liionwholesale.com that @Summer suggested.

I also wanted to extra capacity.
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
Here's a list of reputable battery sellers courtesy of @TheDudeNextDoor. I can only personally vouch for the 1st 3 US based companies.

www.liionwholesale.com
www.imrbatteries.com
www.illumn.com
www.rtdvapor.com
www.batterybro.com
www.orbtronic.com
www.nkon.nl
www.akkuteile.de
http://ecoluxshopdirect.co.uk

Here's another excellent, well trusted UK vendor for batteries:
https://www.fogstar.co.uk/
Usually discounts on Fridays and at multiple times during the year (just sign up for the newsletter)
 

Jill NYC

Portable Hoarder
Has anyone else noticed the difference between the stainless and titanium tips?

I was wondering about the differences in the tips when I read @Gray Area 's post earlier today. I have some guesses but I'll hold off until I can do my own testing. Curious about what others have found, too.

Just did a few comparisons :science:
It’s basically the same as with a torch. For the Ti I like to hit it right before click, while with ss I tend to wait a second after click. In other words, ss takes a bit more time than the Ti.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Your Friday Fluxer Update:

Hi all,

It was a busy week behind the scenes at Fluxer! I have a few items to cover in this update.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Batch #1 Fulfilment Items:

Batch #1 Fulfillment items are finally going out tomorrow.

I was waiting for the last item (new stickers) to arrive before sending these out. The stickers were delivered today, so these will be shipped tomorrow.


These are the items assembled for fulfillment, minus the stickers:
  • Pyrex switch cap
  • battery meter
  • rubber band
IMG-7109-private.jpg


Those who received the earliest units are also due to receive different red O-rings for the top of the glass insert, as I found a better size after the first five or six heaters were completed.

If you think I'm supposed to send you an additional part and I have not yet made any reference to it in this post, please let me know ASAP via PM! Thanks!

There were 25 heaters in batch #1. Of those, 13 were shipped to US addresses, while the remaining 12 were sent to addresses in Canada, UK, Germany, Australia, Cyprus, and Greece!

As far as I know, all* of those heaters were delivered safely to their new owners, including the four that were sent to Germany.

* The one that got away: I sent one heater to a wrong address in California because Paypal helpfully inserted an old address, and I didn't catch the mistake. Oops - shit happens. :rolleyes:

IMG-7108-private.jpg


=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Flux Deluxe batch #2:

FD batch #2 is well under way. This is going to be a big batch and will total around 65 heaters when it is complete!

One of the most time consuming parts of the build is assembling the battery packs - they take longer to build than any other component, including the PCB. I build them by hand and they require a number of separate steps. This is an overview of parts of that process.

The battery pack assembly process looks like this:
  1. Cut short lengths of colored wire as preparation
  2. Assemble the battery pack pigtails using solder and heat shrink tubing. NB: A "pigtail" is a short length of wiring with a finished connector on one end and bare wires on the other.
  3. Extend the lead on the thermal fuse using more solder and heat shrink tubing
  4. Mount the battery management system (BMS) to rear of battery pack (drill and rivet)
  5. Mill the rivet top to provide lower clearance
  6. Install the battery contacts
  7. Install the bus wire for the series connections (solder)
  8. Install the thermal fuse and other BMS-to-battery pack wiring (solder and assembling in multiple passes)
  9. Install the pigtails (solder)
A lot of steps, but that's what it takes.

IMG-7096-private.jpg

Making preparations for a batch of battery packs

IMG-7097-private.jpg

Pigtail assembly #1

IMG-7098-private.jpg

One pigtail done.

IMG-7101-private.jpg

A batch of pigtails soldered and ready for heat shrink tubing.

IMG-7103-private.jpg

Pigtails and thermal fuses after heat shrink tubing has been applied.

IMG-7104-private.jpg

Partially completed battery packs - these are about half done.

IMG-7105-private.jpg

The other side of the tray - I have not begun wiring these, yet, but should have them done by the end of the weekend.

The good news is that I have already completed some cases and PCBs for batch #2, so I will begin shipping some batch #2 heaters next week, as I complete the above battery packs. :tup:

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Mother Fluxer: Several people wrote to me last week, asking about the status of the Mother Fluxer - when would it see the light of day, etc.?

The Mother Fluxer has been sitting on the sidelines for the last two months while I worked on the Deluxe. The two heaters share a lot in common, so many of the improvements I've made to the Deluxe (different debounce circuit, some other wiring changes) needed to be applied to the Mother Fluxer, too.

I was also aware that I designed the Mother Fluxer circuit board for old school through-hole components. After seeing the benefits of SMD components on the Deluxe, I knew I wanted to update the Mother Fluxer's PCB to use SMD components, and that was going to be a bit of work. It was all very doable, but it was not going to be a quick win.

To make this long story a bit shorter, I was also notified this week that my PCB manufacturer is going to be closed at the start of February for almost two weeks to celebrate the Chinese New Year. After they come back from their holiday it will take them a while to clear their backlog, so the effects of this closure will roll into the week(s) after their return. Basically, if I want to receive a circuit board before the end of February, I need to order it ASAP.

Faced with the prospect of that additional delay, I finally did what I had intended to do a few months ago and revised the Mother Fuxer's circuit board, converting it from through-hole to SMD components while also incorporating the circuit changes from the Deluxe.

:rockon:

Look for more news on this in another week or two, after I've received the new boards and have had a chance to build one out and see if it works, lol. The MF has some loose ends to tie up, too, so it will be interesting to see what it takes to go from building out the newest circuit board to assembling a Mother Fluxer testing candidate. :brow:

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Odds and Ends: Thanks again to those Fluxer owners who posted about their Deluxes to Reddit and/or other vaping forums! I appreciate it!! :love:


That's it for now. Thanks again for your support!

Have a great weekend!

:leaf:
 
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Summer

Long Island, NY
* The one that got away: I sent one heater to a wrong address in California because Paypal helpfully inserted an old address, and I didn't catch the mistake. Oops - shit happens. :rolleyes:

Not Paypal or you. If the buyer has more than 1 ship addy on file w/ PP, it is their responsibility to confirm correct shipping addy is applied before confirming payment.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Not Paypal or you. If the buyer has more than 1 ship addy on file w/ PP, it is their responsibility to confirm correct shipping addy is applied before confirming payment.

Well, they had told me the correct address to use, but I spaced on that as I was preparing their shipping label and didn't verify the address that PayPal actually inserted.

Not looking to demonize anyone. I'll take responsibility for the screw up, at least this time. :rolleyes:
 
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