Gentle Friends,
My new unit has charged itself. I know because the current through the USB fell off after crawling downward from about 120mA (after a run at 1000mA). So now it comes down to firing it up or taking it apart. Wanna guess which won out? I figured it'd be a lot easier squeaky clean (as in new). Here, for your perusal, are the fun parts of 3 of the four stacked plates:
A quick tour of the vapor path (backwards, and upside down cuz the other way is easy.....) starts on the left plate where Vapor is drawn upward through the hourglass shaped chamber out to the mouthpiece which would be top center of that plate. In assembly that left most plate is flipped over on top of the center one so the bowl cover can come down through the big hole and seal against the edge of that hole. You can see the magnets at the bottom of it, they go through the plate to meet the cover. I forgot to fish out the sticker on the right one before closing it up again, it seems to be a dam for the glue?.
With the center plate, that's the bowl proper at the bottom. Around it, at the top as you see it, are the vents the vapor enters the hourglass shaped chamber above (and escapes out the MP). Notice the top part of the hourglass is repeated here, and is deeper, adding a lot of volume. Lightening cuts could be made differently so I think this is intentional. And brings up some interesting ideas, like day a damp wick to replace moisture or a pack of metal balls to cool the vapor? Fun times ahead I think.
So the vapor rises up the bowl, through the screen in the cover, through a couple of turns and past the vertical vents and down the line through the hourglass chamber straight to your ruby red lips wrapped around the mouthpiece (with any luck at all).
Hot air enters through the screen in the bottom of the bowl from the chamber below that holds the heater coil seen in the published photo. There's a 'light pipe' in that lower chamber so the light from the glowing coil (and therefore heat) can be controlled. Anyway, that stuff (the heater and window) are on the bottom side of the right most plate. No need to go there?
You can see the electronics well, the silver square thing with no label (it's been taken off?) is mister battery. Notice it plugs in. At a spot that's one screw away when changing coils...... If we can get a break on the battery, there's one huge issue put to bed? IMO most anyone could change this guy. Some fun stuff is happening at the bottom. You can see the two screws that connect to the studs the coil mounts to. There's a rubber gasket of sorts (piece of silicone tube) around the airflow sensor that starts the cycle. I recognize it I think, I have a couple I got from Madvapes somewhere. Standard e-cig parts. Now here's the fun part, that sensor also has a tiny LED that normally makes your e-cig advertises your use at the least convenient times. In this case the piece of plastic rod you see on top fits up a tube in the bottom of the cover plate (not in photo, it's pretty boring) and makes up the light you see when you hit it. You see light through that 1/4 or so long plastic rod from that tiny LED. A similar LED is mounted to the left of the sensor (the charge LED). Notice how they cleverly glued (clear glue of course) the little rod to the top of the LED? Fun and effective.
Air is sucked out of the coil chamber (through the sensor) and into the load (tripping the heater on of course). Ironically it seems that air leaks in around the switch and charge socket for the most part, plug it with your fingertip and see.......
Anyway, flip the right plate over, put the bottom cover on (being careful with the rod in the hole) and secure it with the screw you see near the coil. Then plop the two other plates on top of that and put the two screws that are covered by the cover in to secure the lot.
That's the vapor and air flow backwards. And the unit upside down. In real practice air sips into the top area around the PCB through the switch and charge connector cuts, down (with enough through the sensor to trip it and light the LED and start the heat cycle where it's heated by the coil who's temperature is controlled by 'looking' at the color and brightness of the glow. It then goes through the screen (actually it looks like a stack of then) into the load. IIRC such a structure is called a homogenizer as it's function is to make the airflow more uniform. You'll find similar structures between T1 and Cera thermocores and their loads (one plated aluminum, one ceramic). The vapor is, of course, generated in the load as heat from the heated air is given up leaving the floor of the bowl into the cover through the baffles in it and out radially (to the side of the circle) just above the bottom plate. From there it runs the full length of the device in a wide, flat chamber to the MP.
The 'all glass vapor path' guys are going to give this about half a look I'm thinking. For sure lots of stuff to quibble about if that's your goal. Definitely not for everyone I think......of course what do I know, I've yet to actually use it.....
Anyway, glad I got one. Looks pretty fiddly but I really like some of the design concepts. It shows a lot of careful thought I think. If the same thought was put into the performance it should be neat indeed.
Regards to all still awake......
OF
I am most attracted to the on-demand convection for both quality of vapor, efficiency of herb consumption and battery life.
My ESV Shipped on 2/6, original delivery scheduled for 2/12 (2 days ago). On 2/11 at 11:59pm got an email from UPS that it will be delayed a day (OK, I can deal with that). Yesterday was supposed to be delivered by 6pm. Tracking shows it on truck and out for delivery.
Thank God I am not without my meds and access to vapor. 
