E-Nano from Epickai
<--- he looks like Santa
baxter
Well-Known Member
Sorry if this has been answered before but how do most people turn it off?
1) Turning the dial switch to zero?
2) Unplugging it from the outlet?
3) Unplugging the cord from the butt of the e-nano and leaving the cord itself still plugged into an outlet?
Looking to minimize wear and tear on the unit
1) Turning the dial switch to zero?
2) Unplugging it from the outlet?
3) Unplugging the cord from the butt of the e-nano and leaving the cord itself still plugged into an outlet?
Looking to minimize wear and tear on the unit
CarolKing
Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
baxter
Well-Known Member
Thank you for that advice.
If i leave it all day resting at temperature 3 and then turn it to 6 than how many minutes would I have to wait before it has heated up to the six?
Heh-Heh that kind of sounds like a stoner math problem on an exam.
EDIT: Thanks @CarolKing , I just got the unit in the mail today.
I took one hit at temperature 6 and it was super strong. I was "too-much high" for the first 30 minutes, got heart palpitations. That means it was really strong =)
Now it has been 2.5 hours since that one hit and I am still at a 7 or 8 on the "how much stoned" barometer.
My mom called me on the phone and I did not answer because i was "too high and paranoid" so that will give you a good idea that It was definitely a strong hit.
This machine is really strong (I dont own bubbler)
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CarolKing
Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
I would say 5 min or so from temp 3 to 6. That's what I would do, keep it on low heat when you are gone then turn it up when you get home. It heats up fairly fast. The Enano has great flavor and will last you for many years.
The failure rate from a portable can be pretty high depending on the portable. We see very few of these units having to go back. They are made really well.
The failure rate from a portable can be pretty high depending on the portable. We see very few of these units having to go back. They are made really well.
flotntoke
thoroughly vaped
Stick with what @CarolKing tells you. She knows the nano VERY well.
I would strongly suggest you turn it off before unplugging, and be sure it is off before plugging back in. The jolt of full power to the the dial can't be good for the adjusting bits inside.
Glad to hear it is working well for you.
If you're going dry, you might want to start as low as 5.5 on dial. It usually takes a little less heat for me dry than through a water piece. You can always kick the heat up a notch for a later session (or later in same session), if you want to dig a little deeper into that load. Only takes about 2 minutes for heat to move up a full dial notch IME. And, only go up in temp on same load. Going down is pointless.
baxter
Well-Known Member
Stick with what @CarolKing tells you. She knows the nano VERY well.
I would strongly suggest you turn it off before unplugging, and be sure it is off before plugging back in. The jolt of full power to the the dial can't be good for the adjusting bits inside.
Glad to hear it is working well for you.
Thanks! Especially what you said in the last paragraph I am glad you said that so that i dont have to learn thru trial and error.
I will make the next hit at temp 5
I have the screen set at the stock settings from the factory
howie105
Well-Known Member
Outlet plug, easiest to replace.
baxter
Well-Known Member
I also really like the idea on putting it on its own power strip and using the toggle switch on that thing. In addition to that I could plug it into a kitchen timer that turns the power out at 2am (bedtime) and back on at 4pm when I get back home from work.
@flotntoke I see the wisdom in what you say but also I would be introducing wear and tear to the dial on the temperature controller if I turn it off on the rotary dial everytime before cutting power transmission to it
I am probably overthinking this anyway. It's like saying "dont press the toilet handle too hard when you flush the commode or you will wear it out early" That is me over analyzing it
I have it at the default screen depth. See photo, Is this about as much as you guys fill? Its ground up and I tamped it down ligthly
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GetLeft
Well-Known Member
No doubt about it. Today I had a nice long hit on the nano-nator and jeez did it extract the goods. There sure is a difference between a good hit on a portable and a good hit on a log!
Baron23
Well-Known Member
This is just an opinion, but I think for portables with solid state circuitry its important to avoid inrush surge or arcing which may damage the electronics. I believe that this is why S&B tell you to plug the charger into the device and THEN plug the wall wart into the outlet. Unplugging reverses that order.
But with the Nano and that analog potentiometer....I dunno, doesn't seem like a worry to me.
Yeah, that looks pretty good. It a great vape, kinda hard to fuck up with it.
But with the Nano and that analog potentiometer....I dunno, doesn't seem like a worry to me.
I have it at the default screen depth. See photo, Is this about as much as you guys fill? Its ground up and I tamped it down ligthly
Yeah, that looks pretty good. It a great vape, kinda hard to fuck up with it.
flotntoke
thoroughly vaped
I also really like the idea on putting it on its own power strip and using the toggle switch on that thing. In addition to that I could plug it into a kitchen timer that turns the power out at 2am (bedtime) and back on at 4pm when I get back home from work.
@flotntoke I see the wisdom in what you say but also I would be introducing wear and tear to the dial on the temperature controller if I turn it off on the rotary dial everytime before cutting power transmission to it
I am probably overthinking this anyway. It's like saying "dont press the toilet handle too hard when you flush the commode or you will wear it out early" That is me over analyzing it
I have it at the default screen depth. See photo, Is this about as much as you guys fill? Its ground up and I tamped it down ligthly
I don't know, but think better to use the dial for shut off. I've only had one dial go bad. My power went out and came back on (not sure how long, I wasn't home) while nano was plugged into a power strip. Other things were plugged into the same strip with no issue and everything else around the house was ok, too. The dial worked a little bit (VERY wonky), but not too well and Andy took care it quickly with no problems. Anyway, I've always attributed this to the surge of power from things coming back on. And, have always turned power off when shutting it down (not too often) with no problems. So, I wouldn't use power strip to turn off & on for fear of same thing happening. YMMV, and everything here is purely supposition on my part - so, who knows?
Screen depth.... you got an E-pik with your order, right? It's the little metal multi tool that probably has a little chain on it. You can use it to set screen depth and height of material. You use the little shoulder cut into one of the tangs to set screen depth. Put shoulder on edge of glass and use tang to push screen down to that depth. The other side works as a general guide for material depth to keep it far enough away from heater port. Put the hump of the cut out on glass, and as long as the other tang isn't hitting material you should be good!
Sounds much more confusing than it is, and there are a couple of great pictures further back in the thread. I seem to recall a better one than this, but think this is sufficient to show what I mean:
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baxter
Well-Known Member
I don't know, but think better to use the dial for shut off. I've only had one dial go bad. My power went out and came back on (not sure how long, I wasn't home) while nano was plugged into a power strip. Other things were plugged into the same strip with no issue and everything else around the house was ok, too. The dial worked a little bit (VERY wonky), but not too well and Andy took care it quickly with no problems. Anyway, I've always attributed this to the surge of power from things coming back on. And, have always turned power off when shutting it down (not too often) with no problems. So, I wouldn't use power strip to turn off & on for fear of same thing happening. YMMV, and everything here is purely supposition on my part - so, who knows?
Screen depth.... you got an E-pik with your order, right? It's the little metal multi tool that probably has a little chain on it. You can use it to set screen depth and height of material. You use the little shoulder cut into one of the tangs to set screen depth. Put shoulder on edge of glass and use tang to push screen down to that depth. The other side works as a general guide for material depth to keep it far enough away from heater port. Put the hump of the cut out on glass, and as long as the other tang isn't hitting material you should be good!
Sounds much more confusing than it is, and there are a couple of great pictures further back in the thread. I seem to recall a better one than this, but think this is sufficient to show what I mean:
Thank you my friend. I started reading this forum on page 500 and am up to page 554 so really appreciate this diagram because have not seen that yet
Vapor_Eyes
taste buds
@baxter: As far as screen depth and how much to fill it here is my guide:
There is a flat notch on the e-pick:
Rest it on the edge of the glass:
Default screen placement would be just touching the e-pick, I like mine a bit lower:
Loading the stem:
The rounded side is used to measure the load:
Standard load size is just touching the edge of the e-pick. My load is slightly larger than standard because of my lower screen placement:
Note the gap between load and heater. In standard usage the heater should insert fully into the chamber until it comes to a stop:
flotntoke
thoroughly vaped
Thanks for re-posting this!!! It was the one I was looking for and couldn't find.
Check the cheap bubbler thread or well vetted vendors on DHGate. There are a few out there.
Also... if you haven't tried it yet, put some warm water in your bubbler. Not boiling hot, but hot as you can get it at tap (120 - 130F). I used to like ice, but like this better - especially if sinuses or throat issues are a problem.
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I see many nice bubblers on dhgate but it's impossible to tell if the nano will fit with most of them! The female joint sits so close to the body of most bubblers that have ice catchers..
Thanks for the tips, I will give warm water a try and see how it goes.
CarolKing
Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
The D022 bubbler works well with the Enano. I have that one. I have a few 18mm GonGs, I like having a j hook too. This one I bought through @PlanetVape
by Open in App
by Open in App
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flotntoke
thoroughly vaped
I think we may be using different terms here. My fault for not clarifying.
A "bubbler" is similar to a D020, FC187, etc. What I think you are referring to as far as clearance and ice pinches and whatnot, I would refer to as a bong (tall skinny tube). Right?
Different strokes for different folks and all, but I'd never get what I call a bong for vapor. Just doesn't seem like the right tool unless you're trying to do snaps or similar with a vape. I like a slow, not very diffusing, bubble in the bottom as I fill the can (and maybe a bit more) then pull the nano and clear. This can give great vapor with lots of flavor and seems to go down smoother to me.
Correct, I don't think I've come across a true 'bubbler' style glass piece that includes an ice catcher.
All of the glass pieces with ice catchers are more or less a bong with diffusers in them.
This looks like the most suitable piece and I think the nano should fit.
As opposed to this style which may not allow enough room for a nano.
I would hate to order a piece, wait 2-8 weeks and then have it not even fit my favorite vape.
flotntoke
thoroughly vaped
Correct, I don't think I've come across a true 'bubbler' style glass piece that includes an ice catcher.
All of the glass pieces with ice catchers are more or less a bong with diffusers in them.
This looks like the most suitable piece and I think the nano should fit.
As opposed to this style which may not allow enough room for a nano.
I would hate to order a piece, wait 2-8 weeks and then have it not even fit my favorite vape.
I guess the first one is more of a hybrid! It's a stemline. I've had a nice one for about 5 years, but has a water diffuser in it called a triple donut. Love it with vapor! It gets a little wobbly with a nano on it because the way it is set up, but will still stand on its own (if a bit precarious).
I don't know if I would like it without the triple donut to keep water from splashing up. If you had ice in the one you pictured, that would probably take care of splash. But, would be worried about mouth splash without ice. Maybe try to find one with the triple donut AND ice catches.
FWIW, I've used ice in mine. You just need crushed ice.
Old pic of mine (think this may be my first nano & glass pic
). Sorry about the poor pic quality and cutting off the top.
I'd stay away from the bottom one. Those percs will make a lot of bubbles, but IME really knock that great nano flavor down.
howie105
Well-Known Member
Matching a Nano to a piece of glass is always a trade off for me. A dry short air path (preferred) gives me the best flavour and draw control, while water filters and cools. So if I use glass I am usually looking for minimal amounts of water volume and diffusion, like the MFLB Orbiter. However like most things in vapeing it all comes down to what the individual wants.
flotntoke
thoroughly vaped
Very true, and in all honesty nothing quite compares to the flavor I get from going dry. I like my j-hook best and have been playing with a new very long straight stem (more on that one, soon). And, lower temps lead to better flavor.
But, still like a little water for comfort and the ability to easily take larger hits & take temps up a bit for better extraction. I switch up bubblers often - every week or 10 days. Usually I change water once, and when time to change again I throw some Everclear in it and sit it aside for a couple days. After cleaning and rinse, it goes back on the shelf. I use some more than others, but will sometimes grab one I haven't used in a while just to give it another whirl and see if I like it better than I remembered, or if new techniques make it any different.
Most of my pieces are simpler with little diffusion, and I probably keep the water level lower than most. If you do this, and use proper technique with the right pieces, flavor drop off is minimal. Tips for technique? Pretty simple. Draw slow and keep the bubbles at your very simple perc just barely going. You remember that little cloud of dust that follows Charlie Brown's friend Pig Pen around? Kind of like that but water. Draw like this until you taste vapor, fill the can, get a little bit of vapor into your lungs - whatever you're comfortable with. Then pull your nano/GonG and clear. By now flavor loss from water or perc is done, and you're just drawing vapor through the rest of the piece. If you go with reasonable temps (setting of around 6 on dial for me), you should have plenty of flavor and end up with tan>brown ABV (depending on strain). There is probably still a little bit of actives in there, but I use it for other stuff later. You could go higher the whole way through and lose a bit of the flavor on each hit, do temp shifting if you have time and want to play with it, or put it aside and vape at higher temps later at night for a good sleepy buzz.
One piece I've really been digging on all my vapes is a tiny one I got from JoDa. There are similar pieces available for cheap on DHGate that should work well, but not sure yet (looking at a couple myself now). The problem with these are that things get a little tight with your face and nano while hitting. Plenty of clearance to get nano on the GonG, but touches my nose if not paying attention and very hard to even hit with glasses on. If you can deal with this aspect, it all works great. And, some of these cheap Chinese pieces can be had for less than $20. FWIW, a JoDa one will probably run you $125-$150 (more depending on intricacy of glass). Not too much at all in the world of glass for such a fine piece that feels so good in your hand! He also makes some sick, beautiful pieces that go for a bit more - but always seem more than a fair price for the glass. Mine is the one with green dots on the left in pic below. It's only about 6" from table to top of MP and a little more than 3" wide at base.
baxter
Well-Known Member
I have only vaped it dry stem since I purchased the e-nano.
Today is Day 2 and I took a hit at temp 6 today (Hit #2 of the bowl) and got uncomfortably "over-high" once again. Its truly a testament to the strength of the e-nano even for dry stem usage
Yesterday I tried a scaling up thing where I took a hit at temp 5 and then 30 minutes later took a second hit at temp 5.5 and then 5.75
The end results of that where not too successful, I was barely blitzed and could not get over an "8 out of 10" on how stoned I was able to get with this step up slow method
Today is Day 2 and I took a hit at temp 6 today (Hit #2 of the bowl) and got uncomfortably "over-high" once again. Its truly a testament to the strength of the e-nano even for dry stem usage
Yesterday I tried a scaling up thing where I took a hit at temp 5 and then 30 minutes later took a second hit at temp 5.5 and then 5.75
The end results of that where not too successful, I was barely blitzed and could not get over an "8 out of 10" on how stoned I was able to get with this step up slow method
Shannock
Well-Known Member
Ha, I think I may need to invest in some bigger glass!
I'm certainly enjoying my first log even if the step down transformer to run at UK voltage makes it a little less elegant, I have found the benefit of a 10 to 15 min warm up over a couple of minutes at 10 before winding back the temp is the way to go if time affords but it's certainly capable of pumping out vapor in a couple of minutes if need be (although that's what my Vapcap is for).
