George always harps on this. I must admit I have gotten into the habit of feathering the airports on most of my Dynavaps. I recently got the M7XL and got a Halo tip. Figured out how to adjust the condenser depth and choked it down quite a bit based on video from Lee at TTB. I do not touch the airport and get great results. On the other hand Austyn recommends feathering his new vape as that was how it was designed.
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Dynavap VapCap
- Thread starter Fenton Mewley
- Start date
George always harps on this. I must admit I have gotten into the habit of feathering the airports on most of my Dynavaps. I recently got the M7XL and got a Halo tip. Figured out how to adjust the condenser depth and choked it down quite a bit based on video from Lee at TTB. I do not touch the airport and get great results. On the other hand Austyn recommends feathering his new vape as that was how it was designed.
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
I don't use the the ariport to carb and I get big, fat hits (I do sometimes feather the end of the last hit, when there's little left). It's about building heat in the bowl, then the vapor just pours out. I do feather the Simrell but I think it's because the corkscrew and gap changes the mechanics of the air/vapor flow, compared to George's description.
With the G3, I heat low and slow and get a super-even, deep tobacco roast that finishes the bowl in one go. I don't carb it at all and get thick vapor.
I use a pocket torch to get my best results. In my experience, torching allows more heat to build than an IH does, especially with the new tips (Helix, M7). I do appreciate how an IH helps tame older Ti tips, though. (I use a Wand or Flite).
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That's what I'm aiming for.
Closed carb, slow heat up and that's it ? No need for extra thermal mass ?
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Slow heat up is the key, yes. (A slower heat up is almost always the answer to Dynavap heating issues). I leave the carb open, but it will work closed as well. I think there's less need for extra mass than with a metal tip: the G3 heats a little more aggressively or at least it's darker at the clicks than with metal. It also seems to roast more evenly.
The G3 is actually a really nice Dynavap. For me it may be their perfect one-heat roaster.
EDIT: I just tried the same technique on my B and it did really well, too. Slightly less dark, still a pretty even roast. The B's also a little easier to handle. I really like the G's kit, though, so it might be my preference.
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Absolutely agree with these views. Only thing I might add would be if your DV vape has an adjustable condenser you have the option to control air intake via condenser depth and thus can leave the airport untouched. I have always opted for max airflow and fanning airport so this different way of managing air intake is new to me. Sure most DV users know this. I just fell into a pattern of controlling at the airport.
hotmeals
Serial vapist
I doubt the copper would help much, I think the problem is the glass bowl. I do have a copper FMJ I could test if you want me to though. I'm sure you could preheat the bowl before attaching the AC/FMJ to easily one hit it if you want to do it that way. I think the glass holds heat well enough and the bowl is small enough that the easiest way to one hit it would be to figure out a technique with the standard cap, like what coolbreeze was saying. That way you're heating the glass more directly while heating the cap. It will probably be harder to one hit whole nugs though, regardless of cap.