Dynavap VapCap
- Thread starter Fenton Mewley
- Start date
acstorfer
Take My Money Dammit!
You seem to seriously like the Vong! Is that a non captive-cap low heat cap? If so, how the hell is it looking so new?
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Haha! What can I say? Loved the old models, love the new models! I think it's the wood, water, vapor alchemy. This one ain't wood, but, man, the effects are pure elixir of life!
Sorry, to answer your question, @acstorfer , it's a new captive low-temp. You can sorta vaguely make out the dent on the right edge.
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TheThriftDrifter
Land of the long vapor cloud
The day Dynavap converted both the Crime Dog and the DARE Bear to vaping.
Thanks so much, that is gold!
My_50p_worth
Well-Known Member
Wow.. I’ve checked Reddit for the first time in a while. I feel dirty and need a shower.
DV are NOT handling the chipping G situation on the subreddit well at all.
They keep deflecting blame by regurgitating the same “it’s not our problem, it’s yours for using it in an IH” comment
Someone come and get your man, he’s making a fool of himself again
DV are NOT handling the chipping G situation on the subreddit well at all.
They keep deflecting blame by regurgitating the same “it’s not our problem, it’s yours for using it in an IH” comment
Someone come and get your man, he’s making a fool of himself again
Vape Cloud City
Well-Known Member
Sorry it took me so long to reply. I only vaped a couple of bowls out of it so I don't have a ton of experience, but I used a single flame eagle torch and heated toward the bottom of the cap and got 2 solid heat cycles out of it before I dumped it. That is pretty typical for my kind of use with a Dynavap, sometimes I'll get a 3rd hit but 2 usually gets it good and dark brown.
All that to say, it really does function just like you'd expect a Dynavap tip to function, just smaller. I have not tried the FMJ at all, so can't speak to how it might perform on this. IIRC George said this was geared towards entry level, allowing people to try the Dynavap experience at a low price point but he also talked about sending them to judges at cannabis contests, etc so I think it's a little of both uses TBH. Once it's actually out, I think a lot of people will really love the tip for the permanent half bowl.
My_50p_worth
Well-Known Member
DV seem to think it’s caused by using IH with the switches built into the chamber.. not sure I’m buying that one. Don’t remember this happening with the OG’s? Maybe vapingfans are using low quality glass - if that’s the case they need recalling IMO
I was defending them earlier in the week, but the way they’re handling this is very uncaring. Copy and pasting the same message and not making any effort to check what circumstance each G broke under, very poor all around
TommyDee
Vaporitor
The only reason I don't see that as the issue is that the clicker 'bends' away from the glass during heatup. Cool-down click can slap the edge of the tip depending on the crimp.
My '18-M use to jump from the table. It was one with the honest separation between click. The second cooldown click happened 'very' delayed. I'd set it on the table and it would jump up from the table by around an 1/8th of an inch on the second cooldown click. That's a lot of energy!
But yes, the chamber switches in the many IHs could be part of that equation. I only have chamber switches in my HotShot and Brute. All the rest are CaS. Inhaling glass doesn't thrill me though, even if it is a minute possibility.
My '18-M use to jump from the table. It was one with the honest separation between click. The second cooldown click happened 'very' delayed. I'd set it on the table and it would jump up from the table by around an 1/8th of an inch on the second cooldown click. That's a lot of energy!
But yes, the chamber switches in the many IHs could be part of that equation. I only have chamber switches in my HotShot and Brute. All the rest are CaS. Inhaling glass doesn't thrill me though, even if it is a minute possibility.
My_50p_worth
Well-Known Member
That makes perfect sense now you explain it that way, I’ve also had a “jumping cap” so I know where you’re coming from. Probably also doesn’t help that most people seem to “drop” the DV into the IH instead of gently inserting it.
This is why I’m all in on metal and wood. I’ve worked with glass quite a lot over the years and it makes you realise just how easily tiny little slithers can come off under the most innocent of impacts
gordontreeman
Everythings coming up Milhouse!
Put some respect on Mcgruff's name!The day Dynavap converted both the Crime Dog and the DARE Bear to vaping.
vandalizedbythelotus
Well-Known Member
until a better solution is found, i think glass tip edge click slapping and crimp constriction on cooldown (particularly if tip pressed down into IH), can both be prevented by adding any sort of clearance piece to the bottom of the cap like your S-clip for example, or ddave's thing, or a bent CCD.
My_50p_worth
Well-Known Member
There used to be an old school airflow fix that consisted of sticking a mesh screen in the top of the cap. Worked a treat with the older models! You could probably do that to avoid the glass breakage toountil a better solution is found, i think glass tip edge click slapping and crimp constriction on cooldown (particularly if tip pressed down into IH), can both be prevented by adding any sort of clearance piece to the bottom of the cap like your S-clip for example, or ddave's thing, or a bent CCD.
To be fair though, I don’t think it’s a very wise idea to use a G even still - these reports of glass chips are growing by the day
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coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Fwiw, I just noticed the OG wooden Vongs are no longer listed (not sure when that happened) but the Cocobolo Vongs still are. I have a Cocobolo Vong and have never had any stickiness with it at all, it's always buttery smooth no matter the weather. Not sure if they intend to keep them around, so if you like the wooden ones the Cocobolos are worthwhile in my experience!
Edit: the OG stems are still available in the parts.
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endof3d
Cognitive Dissonance D 5 +
.
FWIW
Have three heavy “18” caps, all taken out of use after non ‘click’ and the following combustion event, the last one about three months ago. Each had a top dent from use on two IH’s that used a hard domed pearl activation switch. Kick myself that I hadn’t thought of padding the IH switch sooner. Was going to miss them.
Decided to just put them in a jar of 99% ISO and let them set before attempting any other solution to revive them. Plenty of other caps but none perform like they do/did. Note: Did have one in ISO for four days previously and didn’t help.
Yesterday, decided to pull the caps out and let them dry. This morning I stuck one on a thin rod and put a torch to it. Much to my astonishment it clicked loudly and shot off the rod about 10 plus inches. Hallelujah!!! In my enthusiasm I quickly grabbed a second cap and heated and surprise, surprise the same results. Then the third joined the others on the table with the same loud click and jump.
While I was patting myself on the back for having the patience of a yogi and letting these soak for three months and being a genius for solving the dead cap issue, I quickly realized I was anything but. In my haste to test all three caps, I failed to realize that the table surface they had landed on was not the mat I had put down for that purpose. All instead had over shot it and landed on a synthetic table cloth, and all had melted a large cap size hole into the cloth and were now firmly stuck to it.
Fortunately, the caps were not permanently damaged, not so for the table covering. Each cap will require time to gingerly remove these blobs of hard, black melted material off the surface with out defacing the vintage cap plus a good burn off before use.
What I learned. The vapor that naturally comes off the DV tip will eventually clog the cap, and a long soak in 99% ISO will clean it and 'pride goes before a fall'. YMMV.
FWIW
Have three heavy “18” caps, all taken out of use after non ‘click’ and the following combustion event, the last one about three months ago. Each had a top dent from use on two IH’s that used a hard domed pearl activation switch. Kick myself that I hadn’t thought of padding the IH switch sooner. Was going to miss them.
Decided to just put them in a jar of 99% ISO and let them set before attempting any other solution to revive them. Plenty of other caps but none perform like they do/did. Note: Did have one in ISO for four days previously and didn’t help.
Yesterday, decided to pull the caps out and let them dry. This morning I stuck one on a thin rod and put a torch to it. Much to my astonishment it clicked loudly and shot off the rod about 10 plus inches. Hallelujah!!! In my enthusiasm I quickly grabbed a second cap and heated and surprise, surprise the same results. Then the third joined the others on the table with the same loud click and jump.
While I was patting myself on the back for having the patience of a yogi and letting these soak for three months and being a genius for solving the dead cap issue, I quickly realized I was anything but. In my haste to test all three caps, I failed to realize that the table surface they had landed on was not the mat I had put down for that purpose. All instead had over shot it and landed on a synthetic table cloth, and all had melted a large cap size hole into the cloth and were now firmly stuck to it.
Fortunately, the caps were not permanently damaged, not so for the table covering. Each cap will require time to gingerly remove these blobs of hard, black melted material off the surface with out defacing the vintage cap plus a good burn off before use.
What I learned. The vapor that naturally comes off the DV tip will eventually clog the cap, and a long soak in 99% ISO will clean it and 'pride goes before a fall'. YMMV.
TheThriftDrifter
Land of the long vapor cloud
This advice needs to be pinned. Great cap revitalization info!
FlyingLow
Team NO SLEEP!
I have not been able to keep up with this thread in ages, what is everyone's preferred setup?
I've not even considered other dyna rigs since going down the road with Assassin... I don't even use my omni's anymore. Is there a better setup for minimal resistance than JoeKing Assassin?
I've not even considered other dyna rigs since going down the road with Assassin... I don't even use my omni's anymore. Is there a better setup for minimal resistance than JoeKing Assassin?
acstorfer
Take My Money Dammit!
While I prefer my Simrell MVS, my Revolve by Mad Heaters is no slouch. Actually I would say the Revolve is a piece of engineering genius. Both are superb.
FlyingLow
Team NO SLEEP!
Thanks!
On another note, I am so pissed I misplaced my cap during my last clean... I've had Vapcaps since OG glassy units and never just lost a cap like this before. I pulled another cap off a green Omni that I never use, thinking they were about the same generation (years old), but performance is totally different for me.
I am now seeking a specific replacement cap. I am looking for one that will give me a somewhat delayed second click. The replacement cap I had on hand does such a fast double click, even when using a low single torch it rides the line every time. My old cap would give me a first click when I could hit and then a second click would mean don't fuck around past this point, a few seconds apart.
On another note, I am so pissed I misplaced my cap during my last clean... I've had Vapcaps since OG glassy units and never just lost a cap like this before. I pulled another cap off a green Omni that I never use, thinking they were about the same generation (years old), but performance is totally different for me.
I am now seeking a specific replacement cap. I am looking for one that will give me a somewhat delayed second click. The replacement cap I had on hand does such a fast double click, even when using a low single torch it rides the line every time. My old cap would give me a first click when I could hit and then a second click would mean don't fuck around past this point, a few seconds apart.
acstorfer
Take My Money Dammit!
The only cap advise I can give is I've noticed caps from 2019 have a fairly quick second click time. I haven't used a 2018 in ages, but I do recall that it had a slower second click time. Don't really have any experience with any others. I don't want to use a captive cap. I'm too old school. I was taught to line up the pointer with the airport, and that's what I do dammit! A spinning cap will send my ocd into deep space
. I do want to try an FMJ one day so I'll probably try one eventually.
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Hah! The struggle is real. I don't even mind the captives and still want that damn digger and airport to line up!I'm too old school. I was taught to line up the pointer with the airport, and that's what I do dammit! A spinning cap will send my ocd into deep space
Fwiw, I don't know about the click-separation. My understanding is that it's partly the speed with which it's heated along with the particular characteristics of the individual cap.
vandalizedbythelotus
Well-Known Member
mmm sounds like 2017-2018 vintage. i really miss those caps. you could easily tell by the delay between clicks how fast the oven was heating and more accurately judge temps inside.
we should bug dynavap to make a cap with 1 low temp disk and 1 normal instead of 2 of the same type.
TheThriftDrifter
Land of the long vapor cloud
Im under the impression that the length of delay between clicks is individual cap specific, not so much date or batch specific. I've got captive caps with good separation and a standard cap that only clicks once on heat up but twice on cool down.....go figure?
The Stray Fox
Separated from the group
My_50p_worth
Well-Known Member
Personally speaking, the delayed clickers I’ve encountered have all been older ones. I’ve yet to see a delayed clicker IRL or online made post ‘18 (when they started printing the manufacture year on the digger) but I’m happy to be proven wrong
I wish we knew what caused this rare cap mutation. My theory is that it was a bug not a feature, and some of the clicker disks George received back then were calibrated to click at a different temp. Maybe even the clickers for the low temp caps creeping into the regular cap clicker box - but that wouldn’t explain why they died off post ‘18
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