Dynavaper
Karma Farmer
Somebody vaped https://www.leafly.com/indica/sexxpot today, as it seems... 
Dynavap VapCap
- Thread starter Fenton Mewley
- Start date
ArthurJ
Well-Known Member
Happy Veterans Day VapCapping!
I have an admission to make. The VC was never my favorite vape. I never really liked messing around with torch lighters. I fell in love with extras first, my phattpiggie and winegums bodies and stuff, I liked the collector aspect more than the actual cap. When I got the hang of the torch and where to heat, which took a while, I liked em a good bit more. But when I jumped in and got my pipes jarhead induction heater? It all came together.
It has now become my main vape.
I like to load up 3 or 4 caps, either vongs for use with the j-hook and orbiter (dry) or my longer stems, sit back and work my way through them. I hardly even show my enano any love any more, which is a sin that I may have to rectify now that I mention it. If you're new, hang in there and keep at it, lots of good advice in this thread. And if you've been on the induction heater fence, get on the list!
Thanks all for a great little community.
Happy Capping!!
I have an admission to make. The VC was never my favorite vape. I never really liked messing around with torch lighters. I fell in love with extras first, my phattpiggie and winegums bodies and stuff, I liked the collector aspect more than the actual cap. When I got the hang of the torch and where to heat, which took a while, I liked em a good bit more. But when I jumped in and got my pipes jarhead induction heater? It all came together.
It has now become my main vape.
I like to load up 3 or 4 caps, either vongs for use with the j-hook and orbiter (dry) or my longer stems, sit back and work my way through them. I hardly even show my enano any love any more, which is a sin that I may have to rectify now that I mention it. If you're new, hang in there and keep at it, lots of good advice in this thread. And if you've been on the induction heater fence, get on the list!
Thanks all for a great little community.
Happy Capping!!
stark1
Lonesome Planet
Arty, J
I too found that an IH makes a whole new experience with VapCaps. & others.
It makes it all too easy peasy, too enjoyable. Can’t wait to get my pants on a truly
portable one.
A “match” made in hebbenstance, with of course a
Everyone, please get a PPS, a PJH, or a PS. A PMPS, when it debuts!
I too found that an IH makes a whole new experience with VapCaps. & others.
It makes it all too easy peasy, too enjoyable. Can’t wait to get my pants on a truly
portable one.
A “match” made in hebbenstance, with of course a
Everyone, please get a PPS, a PJH, or a PS. A PMPS, when it debuts!
KidFated.
Unknown Member
For those who use the dynastash, describe how you use it please. Obviously like a dugout, but are you like packing material in and scraping it loose with the tip and vacuum it into the tip with lung power? Keep it loose and suck it up? Dig the tip in and scoop some out? How do you keep it consistent with the loading of the tip? I want one for ease of use but I feel like my tip would never be packed the same way so it will be hard to keep reproducing the same results.
Me and a fellow member are swapping tips, so I'll be able to try a 7 fin soon, Im waiting to see his thoughts on the newer 5 fin tip as well.
Me and a fellow member are swapping tips, so I'll be able to try a 7 fin soon, Im waiting to see his thoughts on the newer 5 fin tip as well.
Squiby
Well-Known Member
The M has two condenser x-rings. One is slightly larger than the other. The large one sits at the blunt mouth end of the condenser. The other end of the condenser fits inside the tip or neck of the herb chamber and you will notice that it has a beveled end. The other x-ring sits between that mp placed x-ring and the air intake hole on the stem.
So, line up the condenser with the stem. Notice where the air intake hole is located on the stem and place the smaller x-ring between the mp x-ring and the air intake hole. This will allow air to be brought into the air intake as you toke and travel down to the tip, then merge with the vapor from the tip, cooling the vapor, and travel up the condenser to the mp.
If you prefer greater restriction, mouthpulls or greater clouds, place the small x-ring between the air intake hole and the tip, thereby blocking any air intake.
If you lubricate the rings as you assemble they will slide onto the condenser and into the stem smoothly without gripping. You can use a bit of spit or wax or even a bit of lip balm will do the trick.
Scroll down to the bottom of the faqs page link below to the Dynavap Compatibility Chart. There you will find a picture of the M condenser and the placement of the rings. If you scroll even farther down you will find an exposed version of the M and all its parts.
https://www.dynavap.com/faq
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SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
You wouldn't be having this problem if you had left your pants on to begin with. Too much time trying to decide which end is up I think...
Happy Veterans Day to all of you/those who served for us.
LabPong
Well-Known Member
Has anyone had problems with new Ti tips? I just got a single Ti tip and cap....it is very restrictive almost like an M. And it also takes longer to heat up.....and cool off between clicks. It acts almost like SS not like the other Ti tip I have been using for 4 months or so.
I did do a micro file job on it and it barely changed anything. I am wondering why there is such a big difference in these two Ti tips?
I did do a micro file job on it and it barely changed anything. I am wondering why there is such a big difference in these two Ti tips?
formicae
Well-Known Member
@SloJimFizz is that an Aomai slim torch? I've held back on a Dynastash because I wasn't sure if I had any torches that would fit comfortably; it's tough to gauge the hole dimensions from the official product photos.
You're obviously talking about carb closed, right?
Can you take a picture of it?
How deep are the spiral grooves?
Does draw resistance change when you use a different cap?
Is your condenser clean and free of obstructions and restrictions?
That's a modified Dynastash that is pictured, normally the holes in the Dynastash are 14mm. I believe it was bored, chiseled and filed out to fit the lighter inside. The lack of a lighter space has also kept me from buying a Dynastash, which lead me to make cases that will accept them. I won't have regular size cases for a week or so but I do have one Duo bay XL size case left.
XL Cases: (Left) Duo bay Case with maximum storage, (Right) Three bay with a test tube bay for herb
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LabPong
Well-Known Member
Winegums....I use my dynavaps like this:
The new one I replaced the SBM tip with a Ti tip. I did check the spiral groves between my old Ti and new one....they seem the same. The only physical difference I can tell is the inner machined groves to hold the CCD. They seem lower than my old one and not as pronounced, but I do not see any issues there at this point.
No carbs, so I can sense the draw resistance very easily wither just dry drawing directly or like I normally use....only through water.
The biggest thing that makes me feel it is very different between my old one....is the fact that the new one takes longer to heat to click.....and holds that heat longer before the cool down click happens. It is like the metal composition is different or something....like is it almost SS and not Ti.
I did switch caps back and forth with no change in results.
The new one I replaced the SBM tip with a Ti tip. I did check the spiral groves between my old Ti and new one....they seem the same. The only physical difference I can tell is the inner machined groves to hold the CCD. They seem lower than my old one and not as pronounced, but I do not see any issues there at this point.
No carbs, so I can sense the draw resistance very easily wither just dry drawing directly or like I normally use....only through water.
The biggest thing that makes me feel it is very different between my old one....is the fact that the new one takes longer to heat to click.....and holds that heat longer before the cool down click happens. It is like the metal composition is different or something....like is it almost SS and not Ti.
I did switch caps back and forth with no change in results.
SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
That is the Aomai single flame torch.
Still my favorite heat source for the vapcap, skelator a close second.
Takes a bit of work to make the torch fit.
@Winegums cases are drool worthy as are his stems.
Winegums....I use my dynavaps like this:
The new one I replaced the SBM tip with a Ti tip. I did check the spiral groves between my old Ti and new one....they seem the same. The only physical difference I can tell is the inner machined groves to hold the CCD. They seem lower than my old one and not as pronounced, but I do not see any issues there at this point.
No carbs, so I can sense the draw resistance very easily wither just dry drawing directly or like I normally use....only through water.
The biggest thing that makes me feel it is very different between my old one....is the fact that the new one takes longer to heat to click.....and holds that heat longer before the cool down click happens. It is like the metal composition is different or something....like is it almost SS and not Ti.
I did switch caps back and forth with no change in results.
Do caps on the new Ti tip fit tighter than your other more free flowing tips? The only thing I can think of is that the tip is larger in diameter and making for a tighter airpath between the caps and tip. Which might explain why the cap takes longer to cool? More contact with the hot Ti tip would slow down the cooling of the cap. This would also mean that the Ti tip would be conducting more heat from the cap during the heating process. Overall it would make the cap and tip behave more like a single thermal mass, retarding the heating and cooling process.
Dynalowrider
Well-Known Member
Heat conductivity at 20 c: Stainless Steel = 12-45
" " Titanium = 19-23
" " Silver = 407
" " Diamond = 2200
I think the different heat-cool times have to do with what it is made of. I have heat sinks made of the bottom two. I set a cap on them and it's instant cool-click. Doc
" " Titanium = 19-23
" " Silver = 407
" " Diamond = 2200
I think the different heat-cool times have to do with what it is made of. I have heat sinks made of the bottom two. I set a cap on them and it's instant cool-click. Doc
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316L stainless steel vs Titanium Grade 2
Thermal conductivity : 16,2 W/m/K vs 16,4 W/m/K
Thermal Capacitance : 0,500 J/gr/K vs 0,523 J/gr/K
Density : 7,99 gr/cc vs 4,51 gr/cc
Source:
http://asm.matweb.com/search/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=MTU020
http://www.aksteel.com/pdf/markets_products/stainless/austenitic/316_316l_data_bulletin.pdf
Both the M tip and the Ti tip have almost the same ( really low ! ) thermal conductivity.
So heat is transferred almost in the same manner at both the tips.
As for their capacity to store energy as heat ,actually titanium has almost 5% more heat capacity
than the surgical steel (316L) .
But ...
The surgical steel has almost double density than Titanium grade 2 .
Because the heat capacity depends on the mass ( Joules / grams / Kelvin )
and assuming that both the 316L and Ti tips have the same VOLUME ,then
the Ti tip has almost half the mass of the 316 L tip.Thus the Ti tip has also almost
half the heat capacitance (amount of heat stored ) than the 316L tip has.
In practice that means that -roughly- the Ti tip needs half the energy applied to reach a certain temperature ,than the surgical steel tip needs.
Energy is Power multiplied by Time (duration).
Thus , a Ti tip either needs roughly half the time to reach the click point than the 316L tip needs ,
for the same heat power applied,
or
either a Ti tip needs half power applied to reach the click point than the 316L tip needs ,
for the same time duration of heating.
Same goes for the cooling procedures.
Cheers.
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GtrBob
Well-Known Member
Me too [over this long thread].You all have me up-side-down. Please define your tops,
from your from yourbot-toms...
This upper/lower orientation would work if you vaped w/ the 'cap pointing straight up?
Maybe we c'd use 'out at the end' and 'closer to the digger' I dunno.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
I'm so confused. I didn't think we were talking about the cap. If we were/are, the top of the cap is the tip. The bottom is the digger side. I think that is how most orient it when so describing. When holding a VC one usually holds it cap/tip up (for loading), MP down.
kushkush
happy camper....
But we’re usually not pointing the tip upward when torching it. We’ve been thru this discussion before and never came up with an easy description so I just gave up. When I see a post that talks about torching at the ‘bottom’ or at the ‘end’ I just skip over it.
And we sure shouldn’t call any part of the Cap the “Tip” or we’ll confuse that with what Dynavap calls the ‘Tip’ which has the contents in it. I predict this labeling issue will be an ongoing never-ending problem.
LabPong
Well-Known Member
Do caps on the new Ti tip fit tighter than your other more free flowing tips? The only thing I can think of is that the tip is larger in diameter and making for a tighter airpath between the caps and tip. Which might explain why the cap takes longer to cool? More contact with the hot Ti tip would slow down the cooling of the cap. This would also mean that the Ti tip would be conducting more heat from the cap during the heating process. Overall it would make the cap and tip behave more like a single thermal mass, retarding the heating and cooling process.
The caps are the same....no change when switching back and forth on my new Ti tip.
I think it could be just a very fine difference in milling the outside rings of the tip or the inward grooves near the top.
" VapCap Repair & Service Kit -for a lifetime ! "
