coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Woah, first I'm hearing of this trick (just joined the forum). Thanks, I think I'll go this route.

What about the Ti dyna tips? I've only had "M" tips (3 gens)
I like the sound of the quicker cool up and cool down. I think it would work well with my induction heater.
Also lookin at the Sneaky Pete "Add-A-Cap" all glass stem. I'm a flavor chaser.

Edit: All glass stem I'm referring to. LINK
Ti tips can be awesome for flavor, especially with a low-temp cap.

For the add-a-cap: Dynavap introduced a similar glass vape, the G, but it went away presumably because of reports of chipped teeth. I'd just find a nice dimpled glass stem and use it with your Ti tip. Even cheap glass stems are usually very good at cooling without diminishing flavors. I think the BB3 will fit a stash, fwiw.
 
Ti tips can be awesome for flavor, especially with a low-temp cap.

For the add-a-cap: Dynavap introduced a similar glass vape, the G, but it went away presumably because of reports of chipped teeth. I'd just find a nice dimpled glass stem and use it with your Ti tip. Even cheap glass stems are usually very good at cooling without diminishing flavors. I think the BB3 will fit a stash, fwiw.
Good points, thanks!
Would the FMJ work well with that setup? (Ti tip, low-temp captive cap)
I use my Dyna with a straight glass 14mm male WPA adapter, non-captive low-temp cap, through a bubbler with no water. Induction heater for heating.
 
GratefulDread,

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Good points, thanks!
Would the FMJ work well with that setup? (Ti tip, low-temp captive cap)
I use my Dyna with a straight glass 14mm male WPA adapter, non-captive low-temp cap, through a bubbler with no water. Induction heater for heating.
I haven't tried the low-temp cap with the FMJ but I think I've seen comments in this thread that people have, if you can find back about the time it was released. It would be interesting to try, as the standard Ti tip roasts the darkest with the FMJ. It might tone it back just a hair. The BB3 has only the 10mm male joint so you'd need an adapter to fit your bong, but if you meant would a regular glass stem+Ti tip+Low-temp cap+FMJ work? Sure, I don't see why not, and in fact taming the roast a tad might make it a better native-hit experience.
 

budweis

Comfortably Numb
Good points, thanks!
Would the FMJ work well with that setup? (Ti tip, low-temp captive cap)
I use my Dyna with a straight glass 14mm male WPA adapter, non-captive low-temp cap, through a bubbler with no water. Induction heater for heating.
It’s actually my favorite way of using FMJ nowadays pairing it with low temp cap and standard Ti tip. I don’t own any glass stems though but even so still tasty setup.
 

TigoleBitties

Active Member
So I just recently ordered an OG Omni XL and I'm experimenting with my first Ti tip. Is the low temp cap almost necessary? I've been heating with the iSpire and respecting the click but can often taste a hint of combustion happening. Is this normal with the standard vapcap and a Ti tip?

Seems like the properties of the metal cause the temp to overshoot with a regular cap... This would happen once in a while with my old SS tip but much less frequently.
 
Last edited:
TigoleBitties,
  • Like
Reactions: coolbreeze

Gdash

Well-Known Member
It's The Wand that is likely causing this issue. It has really slow heating comparable to a single flame torch at the bottom of the cap. It's great for clouds but comes at the cost of flavor. Try it with a torch or different IH.
 

TigoleBitties

Active Member
It's The Wand that is likely causing this issue. It has really slow heating comparable to a single flame torch at the bottom of the cap. It's great for clouds but comes at the cost of flavor. Try it with a torch or different IH.
Hmmm... that would suck if it's the wand. I've had the Orion and the Wand has by far been the better heater for me with SS tips at least. I'm looking into the low temp caps but maybe if I heat closer to the tip then the cap will react faster. Right now I've been removing the Wand before the click but it's largely guesswork. Luckily I like to heat with the Wand while I inhale so I get a sense of how much vapor is being produced and what temp it's at... Still experimenting but wondering if the low temp cap will solve my problems.
 
TigoleBitties,
  • Like
Reactions: coolbreeze

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Hmmm... that would suck if it's the wand. I've had the Orion and the Wand has by far been the better heater for me with SS tips at least. I'm looking into the low temp caps but maybe if I heat closer to the tip then the cap will react faster. Right now I've been removing the Wand before the click but it's largely guesswork. Luckily I like to heat with the Wand while I inhale so I get a sense of how much vapor is being produced and what temp it's at... Still experimenting but wondering if the low temp cap will solve my problems.
I think all the Ti tips seem sensitive to overroasting. I tend to get even results with wand (with the Skullcandy insert) but I wouldn't even bother trying my more aggressive IHs. The torch is reliable for me, but it's possible to go overboard. I don't always rely on a low-temp cap, but it definitely helps. Even if your technique is bullet-proof it's also just a nice change from time to time.
 

My_50p_worth

Well-Known Member
Just to throw in a ghetto fix I used to use instead of being ripped off by sneaky Pete.

A 10mm (might be more or less than 10mm, it’s been a while) SS nut works the exact same as the half bowl converter

Go to a hardware store with a DV tip and you’ll probably find one that works
 

TigoleBitties

Active Member
I think all the Ti tips seem sensitive to overroasting. I tend to get even results with wand (with the Skullcandy insert) but I wouldn't even bother trying my more aggressive IHs. The torch is reliable for me, but it's possible to go overboard. I don't always rely on a low-temp cap, but it definitely helps. Even if your technique is bullet-proof it's also just a nice change from time to time.
Ok, well that's good to know. I think I'll get better but was hoping to find a no-brainer solution for the times when you're a little too high to be paying attention :ko:

I don't see myself being a torch guy so I gotta make this work.
 
TigoleBitties,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Just to throw in a ghetto fix I used to use instead of being ripped off by sneaky Pete.

A 10mm (might be more or less than 10mm, it’s been a while) SS nut works the exact same as the half bowl converter

Go to a hardware store with a DV tip and you’ll probably find one that works

I think it’s a bit unfair saying “ripped off”.
When I bought my (2) they were on sale, and both were Titanium. It’s not a cheap material, or easy to machine. The beveled edges are probably more efficient than a square edge. I see he is now selling a combo of Titanium and Stainless Steel, and while I don’t know the SS quality of his offering, the SS square nuts you may find in a hardware store could be made of dubious Chinese metal mixtures, they love to put LEAD in everything, that’s the nature of the term SS, mixed metals.

I’d just use the various devices that can set a half bowl, then use nuts of unknown materials. I removed the SS nuts from the Tinymight CU, long ago. Thankfully, I’m out of the “ghetto”. Just my opinions…..

 

My_50p_worth

Well-Known Member
I think it’s a bit unfair saying “ripped off”.
When I bought my (2) they were on sale

In fairness then I’d argue it’s a slightly different context for you than the value to cost ratio at the latest price. No doubt there’s some effort and material cost involved as with everything but I still stand by them being a ripoff at the full price for what value they offer. To take my point to the extreme - I could make one of diamond and justify it by material costs, but the function doesn’t make it worthwhile

Of course, value is somewhat subjective though.. so it goes either way I suppose

the SS square nuts you may find in a hardware store could be made of dubious Chinese metal mixtures, they love to put LEAD in everything, that’s the nature of the term SS, mixed metals.

This is very true, and something I was mindful of. It’s been a while as I said, so I should add the additional point to look for a reputable brand that specifically states SS.

While there are some of these mixtures around, it’s mainly from poor facilities and contamination than profit driven malice - it’s pretty well known the cheapness and relative ease of manufacturing SS. Especially at the scales of manufacturing you’re typically doing with small, generic parts. So if it says SS it more than likely is, because what’s to gain?
 
My_50p_worth,
  • Like
Reactions: LeadFarmer
Trying to decide between the Omni 2021 Ti Tip, and the VonG 2021 Ti Tip.
I'll be using a low temp cap, straight 14mm glass WPA, induction heater, bubbler with no water.
The VonG tip has more mass, so presumably retains heat longer.
Anyone have a preference between the two?
 
GratefulDread,

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Trying to decide between the Omni 2021 Ti Tip, and the VonG 2021 Ti Tip.
I'll be using a low temp cap, straight 14mm glass WPA, induction heater, bubbler with no water.
The VonG tip has more mass, so presumably retains heat longer.
Anyone have a preference between the two?
Omni, for me. Omni's built for flavor, Vong for fat bong hits.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
You use your Dyna natively though right? I'm using mine through a bubbler 99% of the time.
Both, but if I go through a bubbler I usually go thru water, mostly with a vong. Native, it can be anything. My setup sort of equivalent to yours would be either an SS or OG Ti tip in a little wooden WPA through a ceramic steamroller:
IMG-0487.jpg


I usually use an SS tip on my vongs just to keep them idiot-proof, but the Vong bowl is also great with the FMJ, which seems to more reliably bring it to a full roast without any scorch flavor. Lots of flexibility with these! ; )

Sneaky Pete Copperhead with Omni tip and low-temp cap:
IMG-2853.jpg
 
Last edited:

TheThriftDrifter

Land of the long vapor cloud
FWIW: From what I researched, the FMJ, does NOT work in a IH, otherwise I would have bought one to play with.

I only used my fmj a dozen times but half of those times was with the wand and it worked well enough. Not sure if it was beyond the wand's design parameters though.

maybe if I heat closer to the tip then the cap will react faster.

Yes this! Bake the tip of the tip for a more flavourful hit. Love the flexibility the wand offers in this regard. 👌
 

My_50p_worth

Well-Known Member
Has anyone seen these silver “FMJ” floating around?

The buzzwordy title isn’t great, but I do know that silver is a very good copper alternative without the potential safety worries (NP’s and off gassing)
 
My_50p_worth,
  • Like
Reactions: coolbreeze

Planck

believes in Dog
Just to throw in a ghetto fix I used to use instead of being ripped off by sneaky Pete.

A 10mm (might be more or less than 10mm, it’s been a while) SS nut works the exact same as the half bowl converter

Go to a hardware store with a DV tip and you’ll probably find one that works
I just measured one SS tip, it was 8.6mm FWIW.
I agree they are a rip off.
I've had trouble with his glass and customer service too.
I don't shop there anymore.
Titanium. It’s not a cheap material, or easy to machine.
Yes and no. It's more than Stainless Steels, however this came up in the past regarding the omni. I sourced the TI required on Amazon, even at their inflated priced compared to buying from an industrial supplier the cost was around $3 as I recall. This bowl converter is probably pennies for material. Sharp cutters are required but it's not a highly finished item either.
could be made of dubious Chinese metal mixtures, they love to put LEAD in everything, that’s the nature of the term SS, mixed metals.
Unlikely for a couple of reasons. 1) Large buyers may/will test and if the steel doesn't meet the stated grade they won't accept it. Word gets around. Steel mills can't sales survive on the volume from DHgate and Amazon etc.
2) Lead melts and vaporizers at a very low temperatures. Much lower than the melting point of iron or chromium.

Additionally I'd bet the Ti used is likely from China. Cannabis Hardware is the only manufacturer I am aware of the uses US made medical grade Ti and the have the documentation to prove it.

Anyway just a thought if your happy it's cool. :peace:
 

My_50p_worth

Well-Known Member
I just measured one SS tip, it was 8.6mm FWIW.
I agree they are a rip off.
I've had trouble with his glass and customer service too.
I don't shop there anymore.

Yes and no. It's more than Stainless Steels, however this came up in the past regarding the omni. I sourced the TI required on Amazon, even at their inflated priced compared to buying from an industrial supplier the cost was around $3 as I recall. This bowl converter is probably pennies for material. Sharp cutters are required but it's not a highly finished item either.

Unlikely for a couple of reasons. 1) Large buyers may/will test and if the steel doesn't meet the stated grade they won't accept it. Word gets around. Steel mills can't sales survive on the volume from DHgate and Amazon etc.
2) Lead melts and vaporizers at a very low temperatures. Much lower than the melting point of iron or chromium.

Additionally I'd bet the Ti used is likely from China. Cannabis Hardware is the only manufacturer I am aware of the uses US made medical grade Ti and the have the documentation to prove it.

Anyway just a thought if your happy it's cool. :peace:
Nice to see someone else that understands this!

I often read some real hot takes about Chinese manufacturing on this site, I suppose it’s due to the IP theft and cheap imitations that it all gets tarred with the same brush.

I’ve often got stuff from Ali and DHgate that is as good as name brand, and in the case of glassware sometimes even better
 
Top Bottom