Dynavap VapCap

[StormyPinkness]

Thanks for the help. Few more questions. What is the benefit of spinning. Also how do I get a shorty there is no option on the site and do the shorty come with the mouth piece or is that extra.

Like @Oogendoogan said it's a little hard to explain. The wooden mp can spin separately from the glass/wooden body. Like other people I wrap my ring finger around the wooden mp and spin the rest with my index finger and thumb while I heat it up. It helps keep it steady while your spinning it to heat. Otherwise your just spinning the whole thing which isn't too different. The wooden mp looks classy though and I actually like the way the vapor looks with the contrast of the metal vs glass. It absolutely isn't necessary and is a luxury item for your vapcap, great price for a luxury item though.

 

[Squiby]

All VapCaps are heated with some sort of external heat such as a torch lighter, flame lighter, candle etc. In order for the bowl to become evenly heated the tip or cap of the VapCap which covers the bowl must receive heat equally all around it. Thus the spinning.

When spinning a VapCap with a mouth piece, hold the mouthpiece steady with your pinky and ring finger against the Palm of your hand while you use your middle and index finger to roll the body of the VapCap across your thumb.

Practise makes perfect. Start now and you will be a spinning fool when your VapCap arrives...

 

[arrr]

Ok I think I am just going to order a regular tiwoody with a fat mouthpiece.

I shouldn't need spare o rings or anything else right?

Also what is a good lighter at decent price. I will be using without water.

 

[S0L0m0n]

The long wait was worthwhile! My order changed in ways and had additions, over the wait.
Today, it arrived and I'm psyched. Having gotten a beta Omni a couple months back, I've been stoked with it, my Mighty has become my alternate, and now it's my alternate to this collection rather than just the Omni alone!

- Wenge DynaStashER
- Blackwood 14mm Vong Woodie
- Omni
- Burl Wood Body with XL Condenser

Have some of them Titanium screens on the way, I still have yet to pop out the ceramic screen in my Omni, it's got to be somewhat coated even though I clean it regularly inserting Q-tips soaked in ISO...

I'm wondering about whether I should occasionally put Mineral Oil (or other recommended oil) onto the wood bodies and mouthpiece, if so how often? I'd think it might help them remain stronger than without. Not sure, curious to others thoughts on that.

Modnote: Edited to display image

 

[Squiby]

Should I get a regular time woody or a shorty with mouth piece?

Those aren't your only options... Basically there are three directions in which you can take your Woody;

- use the Ti Woody as offered, stock. There is no mouthpiece. It has the standard 62mm long body. It fits in the storage tubes and Dynastash.

- put a mouthpiece on your stock Ti Woody. Do this by buying an XL Condenser with Mouth Piece and switching it with your stock condenser. This makes the Ti Woody 17mm longer and will not fit in the current storage tubes and Dynastash.

Or

- put a mouthpiece on your stock condenser by buying a short 45mm wood body and a mouthpiece and attaching the mouthpiece to your stock condenser. The result is a Ti Woody that is the same overall length as the stock Woody. It will fit in the current storage tube and the Dynastash.

Contact George directly through his website for any items that are not listed on his website, such as wood mouth pieces and short bodies.

My order included mouthpieces. I like the looks of the wood mouthpiece as well as the spinning aspect.

I shouldn't need spare o rings or anything else right?

A few people have had to replace an o-ring here and there. So, I added a set of o-rings to my order.

The ceramic filter may need to be replaced after a time. Other than that, I think you're good to go...

 

[FlyingLow]

Sorry if it has been discussed before, this thread moves WAY faster than i can keep up with...

What is the expected/ estimated lifespan for the actual cap?

I have used the same technique for many months, withdrawing flame immediately after second click and taking a draw. First draw is typically light and develops for the next 3-4 pulls until spent.

However the last two days i have been reaching combustion on the second draw and I'm wondering if the cap is simply worn out from the road.

All other variables have remained the same. Same triple torch, same butane, same timing (more or less 4 second torch), etc.

Still rocking an early version of the TiGlassy with triple fluted stem and stainless steel condenser tube.

 

[Derrrpp]

I'm wondering about whether I should occasionally put Mineral Oil (or other recommended oil) onto the wood bodies and mouthpiece, if so how often? I'd think it might help them remain stronger than without. Not sure, curious to others thoughts on that.

You should definitely oil the wood every once in a while. The oil will help prevent the wood from drying out and cracking. Plus it makes the wood look amazing, it really helps to bring out the grain and add depth to the finish. I highly recommend @Ed's TnT's Bomb Ass Butter. That stuff is great, and a little goes a loooong way. If you don't have any oil to rub on your woody (hehe ), you can also rub the wood on your face, a la @Dan Morrison. This sounds weird, but your skin oil will help to preserve the wood.

 

[FlyingLow]

Fuck... i think i got to retire this cap. Combustion on every second hit. Wish i weren't traveling right now.

Thankful for the VC modularity, should not be a big deal but i am curious to the above question of expected lifespan for the cap.

 

[RUDE BOY]

Fuck... i think i got to retire this cap. Combustion on every second hit. Wish i weren't traveling right now.

Thankful for the VC modularity, should not be a big deal but i am curious to the above question of expected lifespan for the cap.

How does it do if you only heat it to the first click? None of mine have ever even clicked twice heating up only on cooling down.
I know i haven't used nine near enough to wear out yet but don't remember anyone mentioning the life expectancy of the cap or if they will wear out yet, would be cool to know.

 

[FlyingLow]

I will try to time it for a single click, but the second click comes pretty fast after the first.

I know the plates on certain older Lotus caps are considered wear and tear items [after warranty expires]. I am guessing VC is no different but i wanted to confirm.

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

How long are you waiting after the cooldown click? If you hit it immediately it can get hot quick. Are you heating lower on the cap? Are you using the same herb? I found one strain to vape a lot quicker, meaning if I tried to get the same amount of hits as the other one, I would be taking it to black, not dark brown.

 

[phattpiggie]

@arrr buy spare o rings you will need them.

@S0L0m0n oil both the body and MP. Your saliva over time will raise the grain on the MP. Sealing it with an oil or wax will help keep it in good condition. The wood bodies will need looking after as the hot end will start to dry out. Whatever you apply will build up and the woods true beauty will shine thru.

@FlyingLow I'm still using my first cap which I got in January. Sometimes the second click is so quiet you can only just hear it, sometimes it sounds like a faint high pitched 'ricochet'.
I always stop heating at the first click and quite often it's before. When I stop before it usually clicks a split second after I remove the heat.
If your travelling in the US maybe you could arrange for one to be sent to an address ahead of you.

Hopefully I will be able to post my findings with the black cap later today just need to sort out a short bit of video footage.

 

[Squiby]

Really, really nice set up you have there and that Wenge Dynastasher is pretty sweet!!

 

[arrr]

Thanks guys do I need both sets of our rings?

 

[Squiby]

Thanks guys do I need both sets of our rings?

I'm not completely 100% sure, but I think the black rings are for the SS condenser and the high temp rings are for the Ti tip.

I ordered both.

 

[caseball2051]

Got a quick question about modularity of this device.

I own a ti woody and love it.

I'd like to retain my ti tip, add a glass body and wooden mouthpiece.... How do I go about doing so? Is it possible?

 

[Squiby]

Got a quick question about modularity of this device.

I own a ti woody and love it.

I'd like to retain my ti tip, add a glass body and wooden mouthpiece.... How do I go about doing so? Is it possible?

You can switch out the wood body on your Ti Woody for the Ti Glassy body. Then if you would like to add a mouthpiece, you would switch the condenser from your Ti Woody with an XL Condenser which includes a wood mouthpiece. This configuration will be 17mm longer than your Ti Woody and will not fit into a Dynastash.

It may also be possible to get a glass short body. If so, you can just add a wood mouthpiece to your existing Ti Woody condenser. This configuration is the same length as your Ti Woody. Email George for the glass short body and wood mouthpiece, cause I don't see it yet on the website yet.

 

[phattpiggie]

Thanks guys do I need both sets of our rings?

I bought both lots.
The black 'x' rings are pretty robust.
It's the red ones for the Ti tip which are going to take the most hammer. They are thin and break easily.

 

[hweezi]

I'm not sure if George has made the brown viton o-rings standard but they are tough and on point

They can also take a iso soak too.

 

[Quint]

This just arrived in the mail expect more pictures shortly.

 

[hweezi]

Daaaaaaaumn that's a collection.

Are the lids the same on the updated DynastashERs?

 

[phattpiggie]

@Quint that's a proper burr overload. I could see myself running a bowl and spending hours just staring at that lot.

There is no air being pulled thru the 7 fin tip and black cap in this video. The interesting bit comes around the minute mark.

@Squiby there was a reason why I haven't been using the black cap and the video shows why. I posted before about it. The blackening process changes the properties of the cap. Unlike the plain SS it cannot be deformed between the fingers or under light pressure in a vice. I spoke with George about it and he told me the process also makes the metal brittle. If I applied to much pressure in the vice it would 'shatter'. This is also why the cap has no groove in it.
The click on and off is the same as the newest caps I have so the performance is the same vapor production wise.
It looks the bee's knee's the glossy black coating is robust. No amount of heating has changed it.
My wind shield has left some light marks on it but that's to be expected as it's done the same to the plain one I've used.
The video shows how the inability to deform it causes issues with my 7 fin tip. The issue is not as bad with an un-ground glass tube I tried but not all glass tubes are the same.
There is a metal clip inside which means it sticks well to a magnet. Really well.
As you can see at the end of the footage if you were to forget, not that anyone I knows ever forgets , you could end up dropping a hot cap somewhere you wish you hadn't
It would be a shame for them not to become available because as with everything George produces they look great.

 

[Squiby]

@Quint that's a proper burr overload. I could see myself running a bowl and spending hours just staring at that lot.

There is no air being pulled thru the 7 fin tip and black cap in this video. The interesting bit comes around the minute mark.

@Squiby there was a reason why I haven't been using the black cap and the video shows why. I posted before about it. The blackening process changes the properties of the cap. Unlike the plain SS it cannot be deformed between the fingers or under light pressure in a vice. I spoke with George about it and he told me the process also makes the metal brittle. If I applied to much pressure in the vice it would 'shatter'. This is also why the cap has no groove in it.
The click on and off is the same as the newest caps I have so the performance is the same vapor production wise.
It looks the bee's knee's the glossy black coating is robust. No amount of heating has changed it.
My wind shield has left some light marks on it but that's to be expected as it's done the same to the plain one I've used.
The video shows how the inability to deform it causes issues with my 7 fin tip. The issue is not as bad with an un-ground glass tube I tried but not all glass tubes are the same.
There is a metal clip inside which means it sticks well to a magnet. Really well.
As you can see at the end of the footage if you were to forget, not that anyone I knows ever forgets , you could end up dropping a hot cap somewhere you wish you hadn't
It would be a shame for them not to become available because as with everything George produces they look great.

Thank you @phattpiggie, that was a very thorough and informative review.

The black cap is very attractive, but given the different properties, it will likely be a novelty cap while the SS cap remains the primary workhorse. Even so, I have asked George if he has any made up. If he does I think I'll still buy one.

The black cap would be great for those special occasions when you are fully dressed and maybe sporting a few layers so that an errant fallen hot cap won't be risky business. Like maybe while ice fishing or hunting for an Xmas tree in the forest, many months from now.

It is too bad. But I am sure that like the rest of the Dynavap line, the cap will continue to evolve in new and unexpected ways. But maybe black 's just not in the cards.

 

[hweezi]

Definitely the best time I've had with my vapcap.

Neighbors 2 was pretty good, first one was definitely better.

 

[HomeFree]

Sorry if it has been discussed before, this thread moves WAY faster than i can keep up with...

What is the expected/ estimated lifespan for the actual cap?

I have used the same technique for many months, withdrawing flame immediately after second click and taking a draw. First draw is typically light and develops for the next 3-4 pulls until spent.

However the last two days i have been reaching combustion on the second draw and I'm wondering if the cap is simply worn out from the road.

All other variables have remained the same. Same triple torch, same butane, same timing (more or less 4 second torch), etc.

Still rocking an early version of the TiGlassy with triple fluted stem and stainless steel condenser tube.

I was noticing something similar. But it was mostly with one strain in particular, and I theorize the herb is hotter than on the first cycle and gets dried up and stripped of oils or the oils are liquified so it is easier to ignite.