Squiby

Well-Known Member
I'm considering the VapCap for traditional (moroccan) hash.

Isn't it easy to burn your hash with these torch lighters though ?
And how well can you clean the melted hash from this unit?

No. Not at all. Your herb or hash or concentrate is loaded into the top of herb chamber. A clicking cap goes on top. The cap has two bimetal discs inside the top of the cap. When you apply heat to the cap the disks heat up. When they reach toking temps, the bimetal disks inside the cap buckle creating a clicking noise.

Typically when you hear the click, you stop heating and start toking. You can adjust the toking temps by where you apply heat to the cap. Heat lower on the cap and it takes longer for the disks to heat up and the chamber gets hotter. Heat near the top and the disks are heated more quickly and and the chamber will be cooler.

Hash usually needs more heat to vape well. I heat near the bottom of the cap and heat beyond the click by a second or so.

If you have a melty product then use the coil and let it melt into the pre heated tip and coil. Heat a second or two past the click before toking. Repeat the heat cycles until no more vapor is produced.

The hash available in Canada is not a melty product. Soft Afghan hash can be pulled off the chunk and formed into a thin pancake shape and placed into the herb chamber. It doesn't melt at all. When no more vapor can be produced, dump your spent hash pancake. It stays in the shape you formed it. Hard Morocan hash is similar, but rock hard and can be sliced with a razor blade and placed into the herb chamber.

But if your hash is melty, I'd use a concentrate coil.

Cleaning is super easy peasy with the Vapcaps. Check my signature below for information on cleaning techniques.
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
No. Not at all. Your herb or hash or concentrate is loaded into the top of herb chamber. A clicking cap goes on top. The cap has two bimetal discs inside the top of the cap. When you apply heat to the cap the disks heat up. When they reach toking temps, the bimetal disks inside the cap buckle creating a clicking noise.

Typically when you hear the click, you stop heating and start toking. You can adjust the toking temps by where you apply heat to the cap. Heat lower on the cap and it takes longer for the disks to heat up and the chamber gets hotter. Heat near the top and the disks are heated more quickly and and the chamber will be cooler.

Hash usually needs more heat to vape well. I heat near the bottom of the cap and heat beyond the click by a second or so.

If you have a melty product then use the coil and let it melt into the pre heated tip and coil. Heat a second or two past the click before toking. Repeat the heat cycles until no more vapor is produced.

The hash available in Canada is not a melty product. Soft Afghan hash can be pulled off the chunk and formed into a thin pancake shape and placed into the herb chamber. It doesn't melt at all. When no more vapor can be produced, dump your spent hash pancake. It stays in the shape you formed it. Hard Morocan hash is similar, but rock hard and can be sliced with a razor blade and placed into the herb chamber.

But if your hash is melty, I'd use a concentrate coil.

Cleaning is super easy peasy with the Vapcaps. Check my signature below for information on cleaning techniques.
Where I’ll be in FRANCE hash is cheap (90’s it was?)
Da “M” i’ll Bring if HASH is OK ?
Other wise CHEESE in ENGLAND will help?
CALIFORNIA seed’s will take time?
 

roonsy

Well-Known Member
Yeah tried, still loose on bottom and kind of finicky to get it to stay in the upper grooves too, got to take it in and out a few times each time

what are you using to push the screen into place? I was having trouble getting mine into the groove I wanted / keeping them secure, until I started using something that gives even pressure across the screen when pushing down, like the bottom of the S&B brush, or the tamp end of the pax scoop... I never have problems anymore... still could be some other issue though!
 

started@52

Well-Known Member
what are you using to push the screen into place? I was having trouble getting mine into the groove I wanted / keeping them secure, until I started using something that gives even pressure across the screen when pushing down, like the bottom of the S&B brush, or the tamp end of the pax scoop... I never have problems anymore... still could be some other issue though!
Your suppose to use the conditioner as per their videos.
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
One of our musical geniuses here @beyond6strings (ask Alexa to play Ken Bonfield) sent me one of the steel rods he found that does a great job placing the CCDs on the score I want to use. I think it is 7mm (could be 6) diameter. Works great.
1zcd508.jpg


Placing the CCD was a chore. No more.
 

started@52

Well-Known Member
I think the word you are looking for is "condenser".
Lol, yea that:lol:

One of our musical geniuses here @beyond6strings (ask Alexa to play Ken Bonfield) sent me one of the steel rods he found that does a great job placing the CCDs on the score I want to use. I think it is 7mm (could be 6) diameter. Works great.
1zcd508.jpg


Placing the CCD was a chore. No more.
Link?
 
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roonsy

Well-Known Member
Your suppose to use the conditioner as per their videos.

Yep, you can use that too of course, I just personally prefer to have something I can use without having to pull the condenser out.

One of our musical geniuses here @beyond6strings (ask Alexa to play Ken Bonfield) sent me one of the steel rods he found that does a great job placing the CCDs on the score I want to use. I think it is 7mm (could be 6) diameter. Works great.
1zcd508.jpg


Placing the CCD was a chore. No more.

That looks perfect, might grab something similar!
 

mrb

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Day one and I am still trying to get the hang of things. I have to say I like the day the device was designed. I still haven't gotten the huge clouds I love, but I am still learning everything.

Heating lower down the cap, near the fins of the tip, will give a higher temperature click... That might help with the clouds..
 

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
Day one and I am still trying to get the hang of things. I have to say I like the day the device was designed. I still haven't gotten the huge clouds I love, but I am still learning everything.

You might try sucking it harder too. A slow inhale can give decent results, but if you want big clouds it helps to cover the hole in the stem and pull hard enough to feel the heat from the tip in your mouth a few times.
 

Ricardo

Well-Known Member
You might try sucking it harder too.
I believe this depends a lot on the condition of the load. Well cured, well stored weed should just give up the goodies with a gentle draw. If it's fresher, dryer it can require more vigorous extraction. I have always thought this was due to moisture content but this theory was corrected here by someone who pointed out that we are vaporizing cannabinoids/trychomes, not water content. I still think that bone-dry herb is better in a J than in the Vapcap :2c:
 

MaalboroMan

Well-Known Member
I have always thought this was due to moisture content but this theory was corrected here by someone who pointed out that we are vaporizing cannabinoids/trychomes, not water content. I still think that bone-dry herb is better in a J than in the Vapcap :2c:
I think you were right in assuming that moisture content matters, but it works the other way. Water takes a significant amount of heat to vaporize, so it acts like a heat sink. Even though we don't care about the water vapour created, the water content will consume a part of the heat that was meant for vaporization of cannabinoids. Kind of like how starting a fire with damp kindling would take longer.

My own experience (SS tip) was that moist herb took longer to get the most out of. 1 extra heat cycle if it's properly damp, which is common during the monsoons here. With drier stuff, I found extraction to be quicker but also harsher.
That said, the overall cannabinoid content is also much lower in what I get here in India. There might be other variables involved that'd explain your experience.
 

nickdanger

Collector of Functional Art
https://www.marleynaturalshop.com/products/herb-and-roll-case
Has anyone tried one of these with a vapcap? I can’t find any interior dimensions online that would let me know whether a standard length vapcap would fit in the trench
A standard length VC will fit. The box is really nice, but the magnetic lid is not tight enough to make me feel secure about using it to carry my stuff. Also, the sections are not deep enough to fit the smallest bottle I have for flower. There may be test tube type containers somewhere that would fit, but I haven't checked into it.
 

GtrBob

Well-Known Member
moisture content matters,

Yes.
I think the lil pinch-o-pot tastes better when a lil bit moist. The H20 content helps get the terps onto yr taste buds?




what are you using to push the screen into place? I was having trouble getting mine into the groove I wanted / keeping them secure, until I started using something that gives even pressure across the screen when pushing down, like the bottom of the S&B brush, or the tamp end of the pax scoop...


22082-1009-3-3ww-l.jpg


These are a good size, and there're always a couple laying around the house [two kids, always drawing and coloring].
The flat end fits rt in; good for tamping the pinch after I load it up.
 

Monk Debate

The monks do be debatin’
I found a 10% off site wide coupon for Dynavap and with the intro of the Dynacoil, decided to go for it. They have a kit with the coil, an extra titanium tip, and a titanium screen for $60, $5 cheaper than buying a tip and coil separately. After the coupon it was $15 cheaper than buying both (at full price). Also I noticed if you use the builder tool you can get an M with a titanium tip for $75, which seems like a steal since a stand-alone titanium tip is $40.

I’m super excited to try it all out, I’ve heard nothing but great things and I love that there are no batteries or settings to mess with.
 
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